Good idea to use remnant from the panels cuts for repair parts. However, having only cracked an effector plate repaired with cyanoacrylate, I have thrown out all the acrylic after the build. Should have spared some. A warning in the manual may be needed. However, I have 3mm styrene panels which may fit better (no risk of cracks). There is sufficient room on the panels (see here : ) to print spaby PRZ - Fisher
I have installed this new firmware and I intend to do a calibration. However, as explained in the image 210715 topic, the deviation to commute the probe is not the same for the center of the bed and for the sides. in the bed.g macro, RRP set no deviation for the 3 column calibration, then set a -0.2 deviation before probing the center, then set a deviation with G31 Z+0.1, which I assume lift theby PRZ - Fisher
1/ I don't quite understand the problem here, so wait an answer from RRP 2/ for the extruder, beware of the levers parts, they are NOT identical, the top one have a smaller hole to screw the screw in. the top lever part have a marking 'top' on it. the second cap head screw shall be screwed from bottom (threaded in the 'top' lever part). The photo is not super clear as you barely see the secondby PRZ - Fisher
Find attached modified macros for filament load/unload with a bowden of 410mm length In addition, I added an extruder motor off order at the end of the unload macro.by PRZ - Fisher
The needed files are here : - Spigot 100mm - Spigot 80mm - Tube inlet termination - Template and a view of the template : use the motor existing holes to attach the template (the two holes on top) The bigger holes at the bottom gives the position of the tongue. One may be partially positioned on the existing panel opening. You will have to file the space between the holes. Parts are desigby PRZ - Fisher
Finally, I installed the spool on the top of the Fisher with a very basic setup, no bearing, no complex part. I have made a simple spigot support on a wood shelf support bolted on the top. To have the filament path as straight as possible, I moved the extruder and inclined it by 30°. I have drilled the top plate, somewhat in the PLA support. I had to cut the extruder panel to make room forby PRZ - Fisher
That's it! For the Fisher, from memory, it was slightly different, with two different diameters. Maybe a bit bigger, but scale is quite difficult to evaluate on your photo.by PRZ - Fisher
If you succeded to get out the hotend content, it is not really "pointy". Unfortunately, I forgot to make photos of what I get, but you see clearly that you get it out. What you shall get is a cylinder 2mm diameter with at the end a smaller diameter cylinder with a low angle conical end and the 0.4mm cylinder of the nozzle. In fact it is the shape of the hotend. The 'pointy' part is only the parby PRZ - Fisher
There is a procedure for the Ormerod, which tells to cool the hotend to 100°C (use the regulation to have the temperature stabilised), then pull the filament and all the plastic in the extruder will came. That works, but they forgot to mention something important: you shall do that directly in the hotend, because what is get from the hotend is too big to go through the bowden, so you may reinserby PRZ - Fisher
So, here the test with the original parameters (see image), then the parameters you gives (301 H1 P20 I0.5 D10). The first ramp was not even arrived to the setpoint (263°C for a setpoint of 268°C), while the second reached near immediately. Note, there is no bottom hotend cooling, I removed the part duct cooling.(but the fan cool fins: fan wired directly on the 19V, per standard)by PRZ - Fisher
I get it again, so I tested the parameters you gives. (M301 H1 P20 I0.5 D100) The control is more 'nervous', but there is no overshoot, so that's better. I have yet to print to see if I reproduce the incident. But what makes me uneasy is that was working perfectly before. So what's new ? I had a look on the web server and the temperature display make small jumps at short intervals, so I have a dby PRZ - Fisher
Yes, the tendancy to want more and more control is unavoidable, and I may end up buying the touchscreen panel but not now. Also, your panel is only sold by Think3DPrint3D (and you), which is ok, but I am a bit surprised that RRP did not support it, as there is no alternative solution. I am very happy with the duet setup, which have many advantages over other solutions, but the lack of a cheapby PRZ - Controllers
Hello, I own a RRP Fisher Delta that I moved a bit away from the computer for noise reasons (fan). It is powered by a duet board. For the duet, no simple LCD panel is available. There is a sophisticated touchscreen panel, developed by DC42, which is above my needs (yet). I think it could be very useful to have a pause/resume button (preferably with both orders done with the same button). The duetby PRZ - Controllers
So, if the PID parameters are fixed, this probably was a random firmware problem, as it is working quite well usually. And why the overshoot at first startup (~10°C), then ok ? What was strange is it was working then temperature began to slips from the setpoint. I won't go over 300°C. Ultimate temperature (displayed) I had tested is 280°C for a very short period. The web interface does not alloby PRZ - Fisher
Ian, if the cartridge is 50W, this is really plentiful. Indeed, the temperature climb quickly and I never seen this problem before. About your comment on The PID parameters, I am surprised. From what I have seen at first startup, it seems there is an auto-adaptative PID algorithm (is it specific to DC42 fork ?), It is really great stuff, and that was amazing to see the adjustment at first startuby PRZ - Fisher
While printing PETG (temperatures from 263 to 270), with 0.25 mm layer, I faced a strange hotend temperature control problem at maximum speed. The temperature regulation was no longer working properly. However, while setting a setpoint 5°C above my target, I was capable to arrive to get the desired temperature. This delta of 5°C was not very precise, but reasonnably consistent for me to end theby PRZ - Fisher
That is a good idea, I think It will be a great simplification and will make a lot less trouble both in the build, in commissioning and in operation. And that saves some cost, also. The extra time to go up is really minor, this is a small printer. For a light printer as the Fisher, the inertia of the moving parts is extremely low, so the impact on top with reduced current motors may not be thatby PRZ - Delta Machines
Hello, David, what shall we do with the column angles reported by the 6 factors test ? Could they be reintroduced permanently in the parameters ? Note that 7 point calibration was removed in that last image supplied by RRP. Regards, Pierreby PRZ - Fisher
Any STL file could be reworked in OpenSCAD. You can make holes, adds parts, etc. for OpenSCAD, there is no difference between an object it created and an object it imported in STL. If it this is just to increase a hole, that is easy, adjust position of a hole of same size, then increase its diameter. For structural modifications, as you do not have the structure, this is not possible. You couldby PRZ - Fisher
I tried to sand PLA. It is quite hard so the sanding is not very efficient. For this reason, for the angles I prefer to file or cut. Angles tend a bit to delaminate in PLA. My tolerances were too tight for some parts, so I had to cut the materials to improve clearances. Also, there is something important that I did not initially noticed, the height of the parts are not constant, they depends frby PRZ - Fisher
Fpex, why not sanding on PLA ? Whats works well on PETG is cutting with a sharp (new blade) cutter. Regards, Pierreby PRZ - Fisher
I am now printing PETG on a Fisher Delta (from RepRapPro). I face a few problems, but globally it works quite well. I think there shall be no confusion between PET and PETG, they are not the same material. Sadly, the own variablility of PETG properties is huge and as usual, there is no data from manufacturer except recommended temperature. My spool is from RepRapper. The temperature I use are qby PRZ - General
For my first prints , I made a project of a garden train monorail. Only the bogies are printed - All modelling done with OpenSCAD It is going well, however, the finition does not looks very nice and I need to do some sanding and adding paint layers. This is partly due to the fact I have done many tests during printing and the finition was somewhat bad for miscellaneous reasons. You could hby PRZ - Fisher
The topic have moved, so you could find the modif I had done here : Hopefully, I didn't break anything, but the noise was a bit frightening. RRP confirmed they had to do the same on one of their prototype.by PRZ - Fisher
Mine is stainless (not magnetic) ! so there is no hope for machining. Ordinary austenitic stainless steel is not harder (while not machined) than common steel, but shall be harder than aluminium !by PRZ - Fisher
For the arm lubrication, the manual recommend to use ordinary lithium grease. However, Garden train users, which use a lot of plastic bearing on rolling stock, do have poor experience of ordinary lubricant. Hopefully, I had at hand plastic compatible garden train lubricant, that I used for the Fisher. Any lubricant not labelled 'plastic compatible' is unsafe. Most lubricant contains solvents/aby PRZ - Fisher
Same for me, and as I already written in the 1rst Fisher thread, I used own longer screws, however, by trying to cut in place the extra-length with the dremel, I melted the switch, which is still working, but looks bad. So any disk cut shall be done after disassembling the screw. I glued the other screws, but that is not that much effective. You see remnant of glue on the photos.by PRZ - Fisher
I got the same problem, but I did not try to tap stainless steel, I have no appropriate tool. Replacement ball is on the way. As a temporary measure, I replaced one of the balls on the bed by a Nyloc nut. It seems to work well, but the calibration tests show I sometimes got bad repeatability. I am really not sure this nyloc nut is responsible of that, anyway I am waiting the ball to redo calibratby PRZ - Fisher
The primary use of the fan is the hotend cooling, this is why it is directly wired to the power supply. This kind of setup is considered safer in case of software glitches and preferred by a lot of designers as the effector could be melted if something goes wrong. Here the effector is in acrylic and wood, and may be more immune to problems. The power supply (19V) is present on the general connecby PRZ - Fisher
-> Ian, There is not only the question of speed about the extruder. The biggest problem is that is got difficulties to unwind the spool and you loose parts. Indeed, in PLA, I lost 1 part on 3 due to unwinding problems. About the spool, you write it is ok if didn't work with others manufacturer spools ? Seriously ? You are thinking to go proprietary filament ? Your suggestion to have some braby PRZ - Fisher