Wish I could help Zerker. I fired up my printer and it went BANG. Turns out I dropped a washer into the power supply when I had the hotend dismantled - Doh! Anyone able to print a power supply LOL?by AgentX - New Zealand RepRap User Group
I use the free and powerful application Notepad++. You can open and search all the files at once. Use C formatting to improve readibility and navigation is all there. When ready it pushes the files to the Arduino IDE but you still have to compile and upload the changes manually. Link to setup here: Notepad++ setup for Arduino IDEby AgentX - New Zealand RepRap User Group
@N.glasson - learn something everyday. I didn't know about the G90 and G91 to toggle relative and absolute. Thanksby AgentX - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Sounds like the maximum Z setting is incorrect. If you send G1 Z30 F3000 to the printer manually does it work? Try sending a level near your Z maximum to the printer. Eg - if your maximum height is 200 try G1 Z150 F3000. This leaves some room in case of a Z calibration errorby AgentX - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Sure - though what is the intended purpose? To try different vendors products, share your settings and experience or to have other colour options without buying a whole reel or something else? I only have 1.75mm Verbatim and DiamondAge filament so my vendor offerings are limited but happy to share. The cost of postage might be more than the filament is worth though so swapping locally would be eaby AgentX - New Zealand RepRap User Group
On my printer that would send Z to 10mm from where ever it was however I vaguely recall an option box to use absolute instead of relative positioning which I changed preferring absolute. Test it first by sending G1 Z10 F5000 then G1 Z5 F5000. If it goes higher to 15mm it is relative, if it goesback down to 5mm it is absolute. The F5000 is just the speed of the move.by AgentX - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Have you checked the COM port settings in Device Manager in your computer? They need to match the Arduino settings.by AgentX - New Zealand RepRap User Group
I have many failed prints that could use recycling and I would gladly have smashed them into bits with a sledge hammer at the time I know nothing about recycling filament however have seen plastic bags recycled into hoses used for garden watering systems. They feed the bags into a large solid steel auger that forced it through a heated die into water troughs for quick cooling. I think the wholeby AgentX - New Zealand RepRap User Group
ABS http://nz.rs-online.com/web/p/3d-printing-materials/8226483/ Have now printed quite a few items in Verbatim Black ABS using these settings and am happy with the results. It does require using a brim or "mickey mouse ears" on thin parts to prevent curl and to keep it stuck to the glass. It sticks enough to get the job done and I discovered by blowing on it to cool it down I can get it to poby AgentX - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Thought I would share my initial results on printing with black Verbatim filament purchased from RS-Online. A quick heads up while RS-Online state it is in stock with 2-3 days delivery they don't actually stock it in NZ. Upon placing my order it took over a week to get here and came from the UK. Initially tests consistently failed so badly I thought something was wrong with my printer. The filby AgentX - New Zealand RepRap User Group
For my inital setup I don't print anything but use the software to move each axis and a ruler to measure the distance actually moved then change the steps until they are close to being correct. I then print a calibration cube and use verniers to fine tune the steps. I used the formula move distance in mm / actual distance in mm * steps per mm for each axis. This gives the new steps / mm to achieby AgentX - New Zealand RepRap User Group
I tried Verbatim ABS Black from RS-Online and found the diameter was consistent between 1.72-1.75 but had issues with it curling up on every print. I tried the same Verbatim filament on an UP printer at work and it printed perfectly so I figure my printer settings are the issue. FWIW - the last batch from Diamond Age was 1.68-1.72. Interestingly I switched to DiamondAge "glow in the dark" ABS tby AgentX - New Zealand RepRap User Group
I had a weird issue like that once. Have you checked your plastic spindle is getting stuck? I dismantled, cleaned and reassembled my printer and it still did it. While watching another failed print I noticed the spindle jerked. It turned out there was a nodge in its centre that caused just enough drag to jump some X steps - but only when the carriage was at the right angle and I wasn't looking.by AgentX - Printing
There is probably an error on line 29 of the Configuration.h file. Compare it to other lines to see if you can figure out what is wrong. They tend to be very simular. Like Dust suggested - possibly a comma or something that shouldn't be there.by AgentX - New Zealand RepRap User Group
I would think the CoreXZ is using braided fishing line (spectra/dyneema). As clogs51 states - wire would cut and using timber for the frame has it's own issues. I use 150lb braided line on flanged bearing on my CoreXY aluminium framed printer and it works beautifully. I hadn't thought of using it on Z too. Might think about trying that...by AgentX - New Zealand RepRap User Group
A bit of training covering the basics would have been awesome and a huge time saver! If there is a hard way to do something I’ll find it! I spent untold hours researching 3D printer models then building / fixing / modifying one and finally months and months learning various CAD packages before settling on FreeCAD. IMHO having a 3D printer is just the beginning, actually creating printable modelby AgentX - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Thanks hugely for reporting back butterfinger. Sounds like it was inspirational.by AgentX - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Awesome build and I really like the coffee table it's sitting on too!by AgentX - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Very interesting links Lenbok. I was under the impression the correct voltage was most important, not so much the amps. Learnt that from trying to jump start a car off 2 x 12v batteries in series once. Smokey starter motor H'mmm - I'm getting an urge to rewire my z-axis though it aint brokeby AgentX - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Series doesn't sound right to me. The motors need to be wired in parallel so they both still get 12v. The current drawn from the Pololu driver would be higher to power the two motors.by AgentX - New Zealand RepRap User Group
I run a CoreXY printer using Funduino Mega2560, RAMPS 1.4 with Pololu drivers pushing THREE 1.7A motors on the z-axis lifting 700x400x6mm sheet of tempered glass. Not a light load but it runs perfectly, sounds good and doesn't get hot so you should be fine with two motors. Tuning the drivers using a multimeter worked much better than feeling out the current. Pololu stepper driver board was my staby AgentX - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Damn. Would be keen if it was 450km further south. Would be interested to read your comments on the lecturesby AgentX - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Printer looking awesome and I'm enjoying reading your write ups. It is surprising how much time they eat up and even more so when they are operational Normal 3-4mm glass is okay for the printbed but is likely to shatter if it is not heated evenly - in other words the whole piece needs to be on the heated surface. The alternative is tempered glass which is more tolerant to temperature variations.by AgentX - New Zealand RepRap User Group
By chance I had the opportunity to discuss this exact topic with a guy that commercialises ideas for a living. I learnt a few things however the main gem was to build a prototype and get an angel investor. They have the funding to take it to market for which the cost is huge! He advised you should expect 3-5% of the factory sale price for each item sold and up to 10% for medical items. 3% of a miby AgentX - New Zealand RepRap User Group
I'm hooked too and likewise am looking at ways I could turn this interest into a profitable business! IMHO 3D printing is still in its infancy and I suspect there are serious limitations on it becoming mainstream in the near future. Eg users have to learn CAD. I guess it could become common with services like Thingiverse for downloading files or being able to scan and print but it is still earlyby AgentX - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Something else to consider re Delta verses xy core is the bed size you want. Tall or Wide? Delta great for height whereas xy core (core xy?) great for width. My "rough as guts" repstrap corexy print volume is 700 x 250 x 200 and comfortably prints at 80mm/s. It could go much wider and faster with a few minor tweaks however it does what I need - for nowby AgentX - General
I think it will hit the end of the bolts holding the motor together - not the coils. Either way don't force the screw in as it will either strip the thread on the screw or worse - strip the thread in the motor. I would put a nut on the screw first then cut it to the required length. Then remove the nut by winding it back and forth over the end of the screw before completely removing it. This willby AgentX - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Are you saying + / - does not matter with stepper motors as long as the pairs are together at each end of the connector the motor should turn? Eg the connector might look like + - - + or - + + - or + - + - however any combinations will turn the stepper motor?by AgentX - New Zealand RepRap User Group
You can't go wrong with DiamondAge. Their filament is made here in NZ and is good stuff backed up by excellent customer service!by AgentX - New Zealand RepRap User Group
butterfinger and yellow filament. Clever. That is a big overhang you achieve there without support. Something for me to work on.by AgentX - New Zealand RepRap User Group