New to printing and just got my first Kossel XL built, here's my second attempt at benchy. No. 1 didn't go so well because of there being no print fan yet.by feistylemur - Look what I made!
2000ma is the max of the duet wifi drivers to my knowledge, and still not quite 85% of the rated current of the motors which is 2.5 amps. It's a kossel, it doesn't appear that the Y tower is doing anything more than any other, particularly when printing simple objects. but it's consistently warmer than the other motors even at a lower rating of 1200Ma. I don't think it's a problem temperature sby feistylemur - Duet
So I'm using the Duet Wifi. I had leveled all my motors at 1000ma when I set it up, which worked ok. Having just printed an enclosure and added a cooling fan for the drivers, I decided to try upping the voltage to match what the motor ratings say. My Exruder is rated for 1.68, and my X Y and Z motors are rated for 2.5 amps if I'm reading the datasheet correctly. So I upped the XYZ motors to 2by feistylemur - Duet
I went with a corsair RM 550x. Which was admittedly pretty overkill. But beautiful PSU. Full modular so I carved up the motherboard plug to make a jumper plug for the always on, and carved up the 8 pin cpu cable which provided 4 18 gage 12v leads capable I believe of delivering 40 amps on that 12v rail total. And presumably another 40 amps on the other 12v pcie / cpu header. Beautiful PS, faby feistylemur - Delta Machines
It's wired to always on and using the stock e3d fan. I may have flipped the power off without letting it cool down though after testing it. The extruder is geared and quite strong. In any case it hasn't happened to me again. I've printed a few test objects now and initial testing seems to be going ok.by feistylemur - General New Machines Topics
I managed to get it apart and separate the heat break from the cold end after managing to break the filament off right at the edge of the heat break. I heated it with the stove burner and punched out the filament clog with an allen key. I did retract it about 2mm before shutting down. But I'm just thinking about it and I also think I may have shut down main power with the hot end still hot.by feistylemur - General New Machines Topics
Well I almost had my new printer ready to try a first print, but I have a problem I haven't encountered before. I successfully had done a test extrude the day before. So today I was going to double check the steps per mm on the extruder before starting, so I heated up to 190 which previously extruded, retracted and it starts skipping. So I've tried everything and I cannot get the filament to bby feistylemur - General New Machines Topics
As I'm epoxying my ends, I just had an interesting thought, I wonder if putting them on with double wall adhesive shrink tubing would be solid enough. That stuff is really stiff and solid, but can also be removed. You can barely bend it when you put it on a cable, if it's on something like a carbon fiber rod, it should shrink and pull it right into place snug, and never budge.by feistylemur - Delta Machines
I just came here to say I discovered something useful with the driver end but someone already posted it. But, I do have my own addition to it that maybe is useful. I have one of these short multibit stanley screwdrivers, the socket is only 10mm deep to the magnet. Combined with a m3 x 16mm screw this creates a fool proof press for putting them on. Combined with the freezing the metal balls inby feistylemur - Delta Machines
Well this thread probably just saved me time and money when the rest of my parts arrive. Specifically the part about there being a correct side and the freezing thing.by feistylemur - Delta Machines
They aren't really bent per se. The base motor mount is just warped and makes it sit on an angle. A straight edge on the rod shows it's straight, just leaning out because of the printed part. Still it's probably less work and makes more sense to just print standard kossel parts and get a 2020 frame later.by feistylemur - Delta Machines
There are other geometric problems with the frame causing issues and making it tougher to work with. One problem is the base and top are acrylic sheets. They flex quite a bit and are not terribly sturdy, so the printer could conceivably shift based on the surface it's on. In addition to this, I tore it down again to check everything, and the holes don't even line up perfectly on the acrylic shby feistylemur - Delta Machines
Well I got my big caliper and measured the arms. I have 184.82 184.82 184.82 184.97 185 185.14 So I can't form perfectly matched pairs with this set. Is the difference unworkable without tossing them and making a new set?by feistylemur - Delta Machines
I am not particularly good at math, so I don't think attempting to modify a mathematical formula is going to go well for me, plus I don't have a way to measure them precisely yet. I am ok at building and fixing things so I think I'll have to wait till I get the other rods and parts I ordered and make a new set. They and my new caliper should arrive soon anyway with any luck.by feistylemur - Delta Machines
Well I put the calculator to use tonight and it brought me a long way, it prints way more flat than I ever managed to achieve. But it can't seem to calibrate out all the problems. Basically i ran it through about 4 times and it's at the stage where it cant quite get the height error out along the axis. Meaning along each tower axis the nozzle rises from 0.1 to 0.25 by the time it reaches the fby feistylemur - Delta Machines
Hmm, I did read that in the instructions, but I didn't really get the wording for some reason. I'll try it again this evening.by feistylemur - Delta Machines
The top pulleys that came with the kit are complete garbage. It's basically a single bearing, a 5mm bolt, and a bunch of washers stacked up to resemble a pulley and inserted through an oval hole which is meant for adjustment in the idler end and bolted down. They don't sit at a perfect 90 degrees for sure because the one on the X axis is eating away at the belt very slightly as it chews againstby feistylemur - Delta Machines
I've been doing a lot of experimenting tonight. I put the original effector, crappy as it is, back in place for troubleshooting, aligning all the screws for the rods to the same part of the hole (which has half a mm of slop around the screw) the top side of the effector. I remembered during my setup at some point i changed the steps per mm, and that had got set back to 100, the firmware defaultby feistylemur - Delta Machines
I've been playing around with it tonight. I tried that eschertek calculator and it was disastrous. I don't know what I was doing wrong but it was giving me values for the Z offset in the completely wrong direction. But the behavior issue is consistent for the most part beyond the two scenarios with the surging and the 2 times it went completely the wrong speed. I did a full reset of all valueby feistylemur - Delta Machines
I know the rods are less than perfect. I guess I have to wait for my new caliper to arrive to measure them to that degree of accuracy. I did pair them as best I could for now just measuring with the steel rule from my square. I'm kind of stuck with this kit now and sorry I wasted money on it. Live and learn I guess. I did order a set of 2020 Kossel XL parts from a better source to make anotby feistylemur - Delta Machines
So I'm new to 3d printers. In a pretty poor choice, I decided to buy a cheap Chinese (afinibot) delta kit as my first printer. It's more like a rostock design I believe with the 8mm rods and bearings, and acrylic plates for the frame instead of wood. Anyway the quality of the printed parts is abysmal, I had to get replacements for most of them, and had a friend print a new effector because botby feistylemur - Delta Machines