QuoteZeAllan The nozzles I got at emakershop were all 0.3mm, but you make it look like it should be relatively easy to drill them -- that has to be tried one day; they can still be used on my SmartRap then. :-) /Allan My decent 0.4mm drills just arrived from RDG tools so I thought I'd try and drill out one of my 0.3 mm nozzles. I offered up a drill to the nozzle and it easily dropped straigby trevmas - Ormerod
Just noticed the changes to the eMaker shop. "Welcome to eMAKER’s new online home. Having setup and run eMAKERshop for many years, the time has come to focus our efforts on our own products and new developments." So none of the other vendors such as reprapltd are now on the market place. Anyone know where they have gone? On the plus side there seem to be the odd one or two more Ormerod spareby trevmas - Ormerod
QuoteTreito The position of the motor mount may be critical for the cable lengths. So if you switch the mounting position for one machine type the cables could be too short. I guess that the Ormerod 2 could have a bigger problem. However I would give some modified brackets at thingiverse a chance where the motor bracket is one part with the y- bracket and where the brackets are thicker and therefby trevmas - Ormerod
QuoteDavek0974 Note 2 Looking at the thingyverse pics, I see we have the Y end plates connected to the motor mount which is in turn connected to the frame? Yes and no! Essentially the aluminium angle bolted at the sides and bottom provides the rigidity and strength. Everything else is bolted to that. The y-axis end plates are fixed to the inside of the aluminium angle and can pivot on the tby trevmas - Ormerod
QuoteDavek0974 Hmm, tricky one then, is there a general consensus on the best version/design to look into? From a quick look I think the Ormerod 1 version may be compatible for all machines with the extra slot for the ribbon cable. The position of the drive belt and end stop holes would need to be checked though. The largest holes from the different versions would be ok as strength would not beby trevmas - Ormerod
QuoteDavek0974 Instead of reinforcing the acrylic parts, why not go all aluminium here. Maybe use something like 10mm plate and machine to take the Y axis rods with grub screws to hold them at one end? Is there a DXF for the end plates? Worth looking into?? Dave The latest design for end plates, part 531.1, can be found on Github at:- These may not be the most suitable for aluminium partby trevmas - Ormerod
Quotecheeseandham (edit) P.S. It seems a 0.5mm nozzle has appeared on eMaker - adding to the sheet Hmm that isn't a quickset nozzle so it wouldn't be any good to me, though it may be to others. Also the matching tapered brass nut is sold out by emaker and not offered by reprapltd, the two accounts selling off the reprappro stockby trevmas - Ormerod
Quoteormerod168 Quotetrevmas The Quick set brass nut you have shown is for the Fisher not the Ormerod. Whilst they are both M4 thread I think the Ormerod nut is 4mm thick whilst the Fisher is 2.2 mm thick. Ormerod tapered nut, one-piece-nozzle.. attachment 75477 taperednutone-piece-nozzle.JPG ..and quick-set-nozzle attachment 75478 taperednutquick-set-nozzle.JPG But neither of those are tby trevmas - Ormerod
The Quick set brass nut you have shown is for the Fisher not the Ormerod. Whilst they are both M4 thread I think the Ormerod nut is 4mm thick whilst the Fisher is 2.2 mm thick. I've just ordered one to try it out and decided there are two options. 1) Screw the nozzle into the heater block but not all the way in. If using a 0.3 nozzle, which seems to be the only one available, I wonder if that miby trevmas - Ormerod
QuotePeterSimpson Can someone please explain the conversation between Bartdietrich and Erik! Was the original machine made with the horizontal guide rods mis-aligned, and the bed height varying between the two extremes of the y axis? Was this intentional? Does this mis-alignment need to be maintained with the metal end-pieces. One reason it has taken me three years to assemble my ormerod 1 andby trevmas - Ormerod
Quote0x0000 There's a CSV file in the Githib repository here. Replikeo has also published their BOM here The CSV file is not quite a complete BOM. Firstly it's 528.4 and the latest model was 528.5, secondly it doesn't seem to include the extruder or hot end components.by trevmas - Ormerod
QuoteDarathy I converted it to STL for you : Many thanks Darathy. Printed them off in ABS and they were too flexible so I printed in PLA and that seems better. Got a cheap 12mm reamer off Amazon, clamped the pieces together and cleaned out the holes with the reamer in a drill press. (Turning the chuck by hand) The bars are a nice tight fit and it all went back together OK. Levelled the bed andby trevmas - Ormerod
Quoteorictosh Many thanks, it was a good start to year, just a shame I didn't have box of them, just that one Check back often, I plan to sort out what to sell on the site. Good choice and application for having two nozzles, the right thermistor is a 100k Most axial thermistors I have found are only rated unto 200C. I have found a Honeywell on Farnell that is rated up to 300C but I'm not surby trevmas - Ormerod
Quote0x0000 @darathy, I was actually planning to design a y-axis-end STL file suitable for printing and put it on Thingiverse. I need to import the DXF and extrude the shape to 5mm, just cant find any software that will do it for free! Has someone already made one? there are a couple already. ormerod 2 front legs by Le4fy, and a chunky version by the same person I like the idea of the chunkby trevmas - Ormerod
Quoteorictosh Just before this discussion started I sold an quick-set upgrade kit for 0.5mm That would be me, a very quick and efficient service it was too. I've been printing in ABS and want to also print in PLA so the idea is to have a hot end for each to save the problems going from ABS to PLA. Just need to find out which thermistor is the right one. Reprappro have been out of stock of 0.5 nby trevmas - Ormerod