Important Cultural Note
Note: Mendel is optimized to be printed. WolfStrap is optimized to be made from wood. If you're making a machine from wood, consider WolfStrap. And then make a Mendel from wood anyway, for aesthetics and love of the art. --Sebastien Bailard 03:26, 22 July 2010 (UTC)
- Actually, WolfStrap may be deprecated in favor of 1X2 and 1X2 Tallcat.
- Please build one of each and tell us which one is best.
- --Sebastien Bailard 08:01, 24 April 2011 (UTC)
These blogs are really good resources, but we need to work them into our documentation in order to best help new builders. This includes text, images, and files.
- Triffid Hunter Wooden Mendel Build Log
- Trystan Lea
The files in Mendel_Drawings.zip are a bunch of pdfs. We need to render the pdfs as .png type image files (using image magick or pdftk?) and embed them in a series of pages. E.g. x_axis_belt_clamp.pdf is a pdf in the zip, we need x_axis_belt_clamp.png, and then either have Mendel/Drawings be one long image dump or have it be a list of pages like: Mendel/x_axis_belt_clamp
Note: swighton's original drawings are in Inches.
We will want a translation into metric for people using metric tooling.
Description of tooling requirements.
What is making the part like?
Many of the mendel parts are quite difficult to make from wood, and could do with a re-design. They are all created with 3d printing in mind, so there is no consideration for access to internal spaces, or grain or any of the other things to keep in mind when working in wood. Any part that experiences tension or clamping pressure (such as the Z bar top clamps) really should be made from hardwood, with careful attention paid to the direction of the grain or they will have a very short lifetime.
Here are a couple of modifications for making 360 degree bearing assemblies. Make the y-360 bearings with a 90 degree angle instead of the standard 120. Take a side view a y-360 pieces, cut it out of good plywood (Baltic Birch). Cut a large notch, a little wider than the diameter of a 625 bearing , on the bottom edge. Drill a hole down through the middle or the notch and attach the bearing using a standard m4 bolt. Use washers to center the y-assembly on the y-axis rods. (You can use a single 625 bearing for each y-360 assembly, one to ride along the top of the y-bars)
The x-360-z-bearing plates & mirror are very difficult to make from wood. Get some 1/16th inch (scant 2mm) aluminum sheet and a hacksaw. Cut 4 25mm x 36mm rectangles. File edges so they are not sharp. For more details, see the sketch and photos from [] . A heavy vice and some angle iron or similar rigid piece of metal is very helpful for bending the aluminum. Clamp the piece in the vice, with the 'bend line' just above the top edge of the vice. Place a flat piece of metal along the bend line and hit it with a hammer - hard. Keep checking your angle until you get close to 120 degrees. The adjusting tab can be bent using heavy pliers. Attach and use lots of washers to get bearing centered on the axis rod.
The angled metal brackets for the x-360-z-bearing Might also be useful for making the x-carriage. Other shapes, such as x-end-brackets can be built up by gluing layers of thin plywood.