3dstuffmaker.com - opinions?

Here are some better pics,

The budaschnozzle i have works fine with the gen 6 board, I noticed my gen 6 board maybe from mendel-parts.com
I used their heater cartridge and also the supplied thermistor that came with the budaschnozzle, I do have spare resistors and thermistors from 3dsm, 5 each, but have not needed to change it over as the temp is pretty accurate, Well to what i can measure with an IR temp gun.

I noticed the 3dsm thermistors are not very good, they look a bit garbage compared to the one that came with the budaschnozzle


The speed for outside perimeters is 50mm's and infill is 100mm's , however, I have a few buttons on pronterface to increase the speed, i often will hit the 150% button, So i guess its more like 75mm's for the shell and 150mm's infill, have not really tried faster, been quite happy with the results
Its the Evolution 200x200x200mm print volume.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/17/2013 05:53AM by nechaus.

Sounds promising for the Budaschnozzle! What is the best source of supply?
Some googling finds some Chinese copies, are they any good?

I actually got a Clone, Mine was just from Ebay, the one i got was [www.ebay.com.au]?
Came very well packaged, other thing you could buy is a good hobbed bolt if you have not already.

Uh? Great prints nechaus! Despite my Printer is printing acceptable results, but never so good as yours a may consider to mod my 3DSM classic prusa printer as well.
I have all stock: What do you recommend me to do as first step? Can I change only the thermistor and/or the nozzle? I just don't want to Change parts that may be ok, so I guess the (unstable) thermistor and the nozzle assebly are the weak point.
I’ve seen the carriage on one of your picture of your printer looks like the stock one. Or is already the Budaschnozzle on it?
Cheers
Marco

I think the weak parts on these printers are

The extruder- I changed mine to a wade style extruder while maintaining the existing gear ratios, I actually used the ultimate maker small gear, it does not pop off as it has that large round part at the base of the gear.
seems to work okay, but the original gear does fit the teeth better, hack job that works better that the produced version by 3dsm lol


The picture you saw was with the old hot end, attempting to print quad copter arms, they just broke in my hands trying to remove them from the print bed.

-Hotend, every single one failed on me from 3dstuffmaker,, so thats why i changed to the budaschnozzle, i also have but not yet tried the ALUHOTEND and my own creation.
it can be used with the orignal carriage but you need some ptfe tubing to run down to the hole into the buda and i cut one of the old nozzles so it will kind of fit ontop of it, if you get what i mean...

But i would not waste my time doing that again, just print a carriage that you like and will work. Most of them will fit the rail distance.
I tried bushing, i found no difference actually, thinking of going back to bushing as these bearings are getting a little rough.




Anyway, I attached the .stl files gear 1 and 2 for the original 3dsm gears, and also the um little gear that i use, its not really the matching gear but its more beefy and wont break and fly off the printer.
If i knew how to use a proper cad program, i would of remade those gears again.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/17/2013 06:27AM by nechaus.

Thanks a lot Nechaus! I will see where to start. Normally it's better "never touch a working machine", but I want better results. Actually I have environement temperature Problems: My workbench is located in an unheated room and we have actually 7-10 Celsius here in Switzerland. My last prints as it was warmer went all well but now I got unstable layers that won't stick. Anyway: I will place a heater in that room (also for me :-))

The original Budaschnozzle is designed and sold by Lulzbot from Colorado, they also have warehouses in Toronto, Canada and London, UK. It was initially based on the Arcol hotend but those designs now differ. The latest Buda is v2.0c. What's interesting is that the nozzle is removable, you can purchase separate nozzles of 0.50, 0.35 and 0.25mm.

I would not trust Chinese clones. An European store, Gadgets 3D, sells clones based on the Buda v1.2. I do not know how they compare to the original sold by Lulzbot.

I do quite like the removable nozzle. The whole thing looks easily disassembled. To change nozzle size in a minute or two would mean I can choose coarse and quick or fine and slow.

I think I'll order the Budaschnozzle 2.0 from Lulzbot next week from the USA. I'd prefer to know I'm getting a good one now that I'm having so much trouble with the 3DSM one.

Mine is a clone and has been working for over 200 hours easily, no hiccups, The only thing i found annoying was using pla at over 210c , if left for to long can plug up and jam, Other than that, its been the most issue free hot end.
I am not sure if it's is from china or manufactured here in AUS, But its very good quality from lear cnc, comes with hi temp plastic and wood parts, also comes with a fan and the spare nozzle
I have a fan pointed on the heat sink.. I did use it for sometime without a fan, but i found the pla would jam with retraction, I also have a big fan blow over the print and my motors. No more jams, i leave the thing sitting from 190-210 with pla in it for hours and it wont jam.


The actual nozzle is very easy to change on the v1, You simple warm it up, and un screw the nozzle and change it, mine came with .4 and .5 mm, iv been sticking with the .5mm nozzle tho

I'm in Melbourne, so an Aussie supplier would be good, especially if it's made locally. I couldn't find anything for "lear cnc", is that the right place?

This is the link for ebay, This is the one i got

[www.ebay.com.au]
The email of the seller is benlear@benlear.com, you could send him an email, I paid $70 for mine
Hope its okay to post email addresses on here

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 10/17/2013 07:38PM by nechaus.

Awesome, looks like this is the active listing: Link

I like that the Lulzbot one has an alloy top mounting flange (and funky slotted washers for a heatsink), I'll have to tap it with a 1/8-27 NPT thread to take the fitting that has the nylon tube. Not sure a plastic one would do as well. How did you attach your feed to your hot end Nechaus?

There are a few ways, You can search " bowden " or " bowden Adapter " on thingiverse, and maybe search for Budaschnozzle on thingiverse as well, should give you plenty of things to print, including a x-carriage, also the bits you need for the ptfe tube to attach to the hot end.

You could even turn your printer into a non Bowden type and have the extruder sitting ontop of the carriage, but i personally like the bowden system, less weight on the carriage.


A few clamps here for the ptfe tube

[www.thingiverse.com]
[www.thingiverse.com]
[www.thingiverse.com]
[www.thingiverse.com]
[www.thingiverse.com]
[www.thingiverse.com]
[www.thingiverse.com]

I hope this helps, and if i understand correctly these should do the job.
Well since your in Australia, let me know if you need anything printed, I have a fair bit of nylon and PLA

Just printed this before, Took about 3 hours to print, I used .8 extrustion mutiplier, does feel more brittle compared to 1, but looks nicer, i think maybe .9 would be good.
Its printed at 200% size, its apart of a turbine.

The quality looks amazing. What filament type and brand do you use?

Its just cheap pla filament, .2mm layer height, .5mm nozzle.
From bilbycnc in nsw

Hi!
I was wondering if anyone resolved the disconnect issue. I cannot print a full item from my cReator 3d printer. Been in contact with support (over 20 emails) to no avail. The printer will randomly stop and disconnect from the computer. I've tried on several objects, different USB ports and different computers. I've tried printing one object 8 times, and sometimes it takes two hours before stopping. It never gets past 40% of prints that go more than 1 hour.

Also, prints end up with a good deal of excess material every time they skip over empty space (hanging strings). <-- very small issue compared to not being able to print.

@vinniyo
Do you have a 3dstuffmaker, if you have a cReator 3d printer then your in the wrong thread and none of us have experience with your type of machine?
I have only ever had an issue like this in the beginning when i forgot to switch off the power saving options on my laptop. The laptop powered down and crashed the print.
I am unsure how to fix the excess strings, i get those too when my machine prints.
Mike

Printer is now working - currently using 5-6 layers of blue tape holding the hotend together. I have not pulled the hotend to bits to work out exactly what the problem is.
Once the other hotend arrives I will pull this current one to bits to find out what is wrong with it.

I tested pcb using a 10 ohm 10 watt resistor (used for driving an led) out of my junk jar and soldered on a few wire connectors & attached it to the board.
The jittering, zooming stopped and no disconnections, resistor gets very very hot within 5 minutes, left it alone on piece of wood. Came back to a scorched wooden board.

Without pulling it all to bits. Either the thermistor/resistor is loose in the hotend or possibly broken or loose wire.

support@3dstuffmaker - The specification for thermistor is 100k and resistor is 6.8ohms/3watt.

I am happy to put it down to shipping or faulty hotend assembly. Bulk chinese preassembled hotends purchased and then boxed up in India and shipped to Australia. I got what I paid for.
I have learnt a great deal over the past month, hopefully 3dstuffmaker will improve their kit quality and purchasing processes/tasks to ensure correctly assembled and tested components.

The printer came very well packaged up, all components appeared to be quadrupled checked and marked as tested.

Most people that have had their printers for a while would not hestitate to pull it to bits. As a newbie, purchasing a partially assembled and assumed fully tested kit, I expected it to work.

Will suck it up and move on. My OH has asked me to purchase a pretty, ready to go printer, house suitable printer.
This one has quickly been migrated to my play room and will in end up in the shed.


Update- They are sending out a replacement hotend.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/23/2013 07:53PM by printa3d.

Hey vinniyo,
Try routing your USB cable well away from any AC power cable, in fact any other cable (in case of noise on a DC power cable from a low quality power supply) and do so without coiling it up.

If I don't do the above with my eVolution it disconnects randomly.


I'm awaiting delivery of a Budaschnozzle 2.0, hopefully it is the solution to all my 3DSM problems.

A few things iv noticed i thought i should post on here that i forgot to mention because it did not occur to me,


Normally i would naturally overkill cooling, i have been running a squirrel cage fan on my gen 6, The stock ones are like the standard pc case fans.

I had to use this fan for another charger as i had nothing to cool it, so i took it off the printer and put the stock fan back on, I ran it, I found running the budaschnozzle and hi speeds the gen 6 board got extremely hot, espically the hotend wiring connectors that run the 12 volt cartridge.

I think its best to cool it, or rewire it to heavier gauge wiring ideally, I snipped the original wiring so i could use the connector...
Not the best idea, im glad i got onto it early, i only noticed because i turned up the z axis current was trying 300% speed on the z axis.



On another subject, its time to replace the bearings and strengthen the frame, The sound it makes on a wooden desk was making me physically sick being in the same room, So made a few different sound dampeners, I used regular packing foam, I was shocked out how quiet it was now.

Using the foam was good for about an hour or something and then the sound increased again, I then tried some camping mat material, that worked well, but got louder after awhile as well
I am now using a dual layer, camping matt on top of some bicycle handle bar grips sliced like a U shape. Pretty "ghetto" but works quite well for the moment. I think there is a much more professional solution however i have not spent the time researching..

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 10/25/2013 07:38AM by nechaus.

Hi

Interesting issue with extruder...

The leaver on the side is a clutch- not a locking mechanism- so when you slam it down hard- it becomes a grinder- as the driver forces are huge.

1- Follow instruction- reduce your extrusion multiplier number to 0.6 from 1- this slows down your extruder driver motor
2- Set the clutch to the minimum force needed to extrude a neat string of plastic- after that you will get super prints.

3- If you have technical issues - just ask Skype support to assist you - they send freebie parts and are very generous with their time...

Have fun printing

rob

Bought a couple of j heads for testing.
Put about 200mm filament through, then the extruder motor gave up, not enough torque, unable to drive filament.

I have a 40mm 12v laptop fan blowing on the top of the hotend running constantly whenever the printer is powered up and could touch the top of the hotend and push filament through by hand no problems. IR temp gun showed temp difference of ~3'c between hotend and temp given on screen.

Tried adjusting the pot following instruction on gen6 calibraton page.
Unknown quality and specs of motors, maybe why the kit is supplied with the 0.7mm nozzle?

Pulled the original hotend to bits - thermistor wire broken. Will return hotend to 3dstuffmaker@India over next couple of days.

Close look at the hobbed bolt shows it is either worn (would then point to very mild steel bolt) or poorly designed.
The centre of the bolt is smooth with two clear columns of teeth on edges.
The large extruder gear now has a chipped tooth, and the small gear has a lot of powder, which I suspect is worn gear acrylic/plastic.
Have put more than 3/4 of supplied pla through it.

So far 6 weeks of headaches. Might be useable in another month or so.
Removed last couple of lines of my rant. Will wait few more weeks.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/31/2013 07:52AM by printa3d.

I could not catch them (lulzbot) with anything in stock, so I have the Buda G3D V2.0 from ebay chinese knock off. I am waiting on a tube to convert it to 1.75 filiment. When I hooked it up the crappy resistor fried right away, so after installing a new Ramps 1.4 board I installed a 40W ceramic heater into it. It is heating well, but I have not printed anything yet.

My came with a 40w cartridge heater, bugger that yours fried
my is more like the version 1 or v1.1

when you start printing, if you feel like it, report back here, I'm keen to see some of your prints

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 11/04/2013 12:31AM by nechaus.

Sure thing, waiting on adapter to use 1.75 filiment, and spending the time to dial in my bed calibration.... I also have on order some cooling fans that I have heard that I need for PLA with this hot end.

You can get it to run without a fan, just need really low temps like 170c - 180c,
but it may jam as the heat travels up expanding the PLA
argh, levelling the bed is the most annoying thing, if your going shopping for printer parts, id suggest in ordering some new bed springs, its best to get beefy ones, the originals are pretty crappy i found after time, they loose their springyness and you will be just continuly need to level the bed to often...

Update, Still trying to get the printer running but i have been busy the last few weeks so haven't really put in much effort. 3dstuffmaker have emailed me asking that i give them positive feedback on Ebay and they will give me one kg PLA with maintenance kit + 3 months skype support for free. Their email is below. I don't like this approach of bribing people to get positive feedback.

Dear Customer, we received your negative feeback on ebay. please review your feedback again, we are ready to assist you directly on skype, if printer is not working we will send you replacement parts as free. Sorry for the inconvenience caused. To compensate, we would like to give you one kg PLA with maintenance kit + 3 months skype support for free if you change the feeback as positive. Thanks Simon

@ Jeffegg2, where are you getting the 1.75mm tube to convert the buda nozzle from 3mm to 1.75mm?

Thanks
Mike

Ordered both 3mm/2mm and 3mm/1.5mm. If one of those works ill have some xtra.

Received the adapter tube. The 3mm x 2mm works for the 3mm to 1.75 conversion, but the hot end part is still 3mm. I have ordered some 3mm x 2mm brass tube to place into the hot end and see if that works out better. Some of the adapter photos show using the ptfe all the way to the tip. I can't see how the pla will melt using that method. I cut the ptfe where it enters the metal area, but now I get some jams...

I'll let you know how the brass adapter works out.