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HeatBed Power Boost Dilemna and PE/FR4 plastic as base?

Posted by skynetprinter 
HeatBed Power Boost Dilemna and PE/FR4 plastic as base?
March 21, 2015 07:05AM
I bought a RepRap with a listing error stating 110'C instead of the 70'C it can actually achieve. with insulation i can get 95.
Do i even need a hot surface if i use HDPE/ PET/ FR4 print substrate and ABS slurry?

I have measured the resistance at about 1.8 but my multimeter 0.4Ohm at zero resistance (i.e. copper) i.e. inaccurate.

The PSU is rated at 20 Amps, i am heating an 270x210x210 aluminium plate.
Can my PSU at 20A max actually heat such a large print surface to 100'C?

Perhaps i should do away with the hot bed and apply some resistors straight onto the aluminium plate?

Perhaps i should keep the hotbed and put 80W of resistors at front and back margin of the alu? (it's 270 long and the heat bed is 200)

Should i do a solution with a new power supply and the old one combined, so i can just plug 12V straight into a secondary heater on the bed, and have like a power boost feature that takes it up to about 70'C? At least i wouldnt risk discovering that the 20A PSU isnt enough for a 270x210x210 aluminium board.

I am rather lost with all this.

Edited 3 time(s). Last edit at 03/21/2015 07:08AM by skynetprinter.
Re: HeatBed Power Boost Dilemna and PE/FR4 plastic as base?
March 21, 2015 08:35AM
There is a reason why many Onyx 300mm diameter heated bed owners run them on 18-24 volts. Mine went from struggling to reach 95C in an hour to shooting past 110C in 6 minutes by changing the power supply from 12V to 20V and an external SSR/heat sink. The Meanwell SE-600-24 power supply and SSR/heat sink that I picked up a few months ago was the best $120 that I ever spent on my printer.....
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