Fastest 3D-Printer in the World

Great Job nebbian, and your values seem to make sense too,so i will believe you this time.

I try since hours to print with 0.7mm nozzle and 0.5 layer height without infill. Could do a part in under 20min with 3 perimeters. Looked good, but did not lock with my other parts i printed @ 0.2mm layer, just layed on each other. Could glue that thing for a photo, but will make a video soon that shows how to film and test irrefutable.

Quote
MechaBits
but what I meant by Junk is Printing stuff that has no use

You are so right, but your criticism does not help, we need suggestions how to solve that problem.

I had the idea to print with a hole in the top or bottom, then fill water with a syringe or printed funnel inside, place it on a absorbent kitchen roll, and voila, if its watertight, it has passed the surface test. Would that be acceptable?

Bought the lathe for motor parts and hotend stuff.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 01/26/2017 11:29AM by Kolbi.

---

Homepage

Quote

Could do a part in under 20min with 3 perimeters and no infill.

You should only need a single perimeter. A 0.7mm nozzle and 3 perimeters would be at least 2.1mm walls which is unnecessary for this model. What extrusion width did you use? With a 0.7mm nozzle I would suggest a layer height of 0.4mm and width of 1.1mm. Glad to see that you are trying it - the combination of fast delta motion with larger nozzle sizes should be very impressive, as long as your hotend can keep up.

Quote
MechaBits
but what I meant by Junk is Printing stuff that has no use

You are so right, but your criticism does not help, we need suggestions how to solve that problem.
---

By Raising Awareness, Designing Multi Functional Modular Parts, Iterating for longer in CAD,
Steer clear of Big Yoda heads
Yeah we can all make mistakes, but try to keep things to a minimum,

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/26/2017 12:18PM by MechaBits.

Quote
JamesK
Glad to see that you are trying it - the combination of fast delta motion with larger nozzle sizes should be very impressive, as long as your hotend can keep up.

Thanks, you are right, i am now fighting with extrusion volume and extruder grip and had to tighten the springs a lot. For now i put a small counter bearing to the extruder motor shaft to protect it from bending too much, but this is no good solution, will have to redesign the airtripper for 14x5mm motor shaft counter-bearing. Or does anybody know a similar extruder on thingiverse with bigger bearings?

I also had to go up with temperature, now 200° for PLA, but may have to go up far more because of short contact/melting time. For HighSpeed i guess ABS would be the better choice, but on the other side PLA has greater overhang capabilities because faster hardening and not bending up so fast.


0.4mm layers should make overhang edges far better, but needs roughly 1/5 more time... will try a few heigths and report.

Edit: Used 0.7mm extrusion width, then changed to 2 perimeter with inner perimeter 1mm width, but did not print well.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/26/2017 01:55PM by Kolbi.

---

Homepage

Quote

I also had to go up with temperature, now 200° for PLA, but may have to go up far more because of short contact/melting time. For HighSpeed i guess ABS would be the better choice, but on the other side PLA has greater overhang capabilities because faster hardening and not bending up so fast.

Yes, I increase the temperature with PLA for high speeds. I think PLA has the lowest viscosity of the common plastics (at usable temperatures) and the best inter-layer bonding, so I normally use PLA for anything where I want a print quickly to test fit and size. I haven't had much luck trying to rush ABS, I typically have to print it about half the speed of PLA. Where my normal temperature for PLA is 190C, I've used up to 230C for high speed prints. The downside is that it doesn't bridge very well at high temperatures. You also need to have a good part cooling fan to avoid too much heat build up in the print.

Thats strange, in my beginnings i found ABS much more uncomplicated except bad sticking on the heatplate sometimes. It just ran through the hotend like water, but overhangs always bend up, therefor i suggested a lower z-position for overhangs, depth dynamically depending on degrees overhang, but slic3r didnt react on my email.

---

Homepage