Ebay SINTRON Kossel Mini full kit

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DRTak

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hacker

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DRTak

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hacker

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DRTak
M552 P192.168.2.14 ; IP address (0 = use DHCP)
M554 P192.168.1.1 ; Gateway 71.8.194.37
M553 P255.255.255.0 ; Netmask

Looks like your gateway is not on the same network as your ip, does it work? Or does it even care about the gateway given the abundance of network interfaces?

It works.

My house would be an IT nightmare. I have a one cable line coming into the house. It is connected to a cable modem. I have one ethernet line connecting the modem to an Asus wifi router. The back of the router ran out of ethernet Out lines. So I connected that to an ethernet switch (which I had laying around from an older project. ie its free. I could have just bought an 8 or 10 port switch) which gave me 4 more ethernet lines. I then ran out of those lines. So I had an older Asus Wifi router laying around. So I use that as a "switch" to get more ethernet out lines. One of which goes to my Kossel. Well after many trials I realized that I could not connect to the main intranet without making my Kossel a static IP with a different IP that the main network. So 192.168.2.1 (old router) instead of 192.168.1.1 (main asus new router). The gateway is the main gateway for the cable company modem.

So I could have thrown away the old asus wifi modem and bought another switch. However, turns out that my kids Iphone 3 G can only be on this old wifi network due to older wifi system protocol installed in the iPhone 3g which is a n/g I think. My new modem can run on the wifi "a" protocol and has no backward compatability with the n/g protocol. Also, my kids Kindles can only handle the older wifi protocol n/g. So Im stuck with having to use this old wifi modem along side my newer modem.

Nah, that doesn't scare me at all, I have pretty convoluted network setup with different subnets too. It's just that I prefer to have gateway on the same subnet. If you tried to do that on the ordinary box it would probably refuse to even add the default route. It wouldn't know on which interface to look for the gateway. On the other hand duet neither needs default route (as long as you access it from the same subnet) nor needs to pick the interface, because it kinda doesn't have too many to choose from. So probably it either lives without the default route if you access it from .2. network or just doesn't care much sending stuff to the only interface it has if you access it from both network. As long as it's not complaining, who cares. I don't expect way too sophisticated network stack in its firmware. The bad thing about the duet firmware is that works so well I like never even peeked inside.

BTW, meanwhile I have upgraded my kossel to duetwifi a couple of days ago and it makes like no sound whatsoever. Before that I have changed the e3d's 30mm fan to noctua 40mm silent one, so it neither makes sound when powered up, nor while printing And my old duet now powers prusa.

The only thing I'm missing on the new duet is telnet (ftp too, but that sounds like much more hassle to implement, so it's understandable).

Two things. Is there a more simple way to get my network to work then?

2nd. How is the duetwifi? I have the duet 0.6 with expansion card. But have removed the expansion card. Living with just the duet 0.6. My setup is noisy with all the fans. I have a fan on the duet. 2 fans on the hotend, one fan on the E motor, and a fan to cool the powersupply. So even if the duet wifi was quiet all of my fans would make it really noisy.

Why did you upgrade besides noise pollution removal?

First, If I understand you correctly, 2.1 does routing between .2. and .1. network with kossel being in .2. network, so .2.1 should be the gateway for it. That said, you don't want to change it if everything works, I wouldn't bother

I previously had duet 0.8.5 and no fans around it, to duet itself didn't make noise, it's steppers that are quieter now with duetwifi. I only have one hotend fan which is now the silent noctua fan 40mm and it produces really no sound. And well, I also have 50x50 blower for a layer fan and this is by far the loudest, but I'm not doing anything about it. And I never cooled extruders, and my geared extruder doesn't require high current. My steppers (original ones) are at 600mA, not sure why you need higher current…

And I didn't really upgrade to silence things, I mainly wanted to upgrade my prusa to duet and thought duetwifi upgrade on the kossel is a good opportunity.

Hello everyone.

Sorry I haven't been keeping up with this thread and to just jump in like this. It has been an ordeal to set up and keep my printer running, many of the parts are cracking while many others are fine. The PLA used is different between some parts and one type is falling to pieces.

I have since begun redeveloping all of the parts to be more reliable when printed with PLA. These parts fix up some of the issues with the original Sintron design, my printer can now print to within .05mm accuracy. I thought I'd share this collection here as this was the first place I checked as opposed to anywhere else.

Kossel Redesigned Parts

I have noticed that hundreds and hundreds of these kits have been sold, but you hardly see any actually in use. They are marketed as ready to go but to make mine work properly without any issues has required over 100 hours of learning and redesign. That's not right for something that should only take an hour to get working. I suspect that many of the kits are just sitting or get thrown out, which is a shame

Yes. I have experienced all of that. My kossel is completely different. I have replaced all of the pla parts with metal. The only original Kossel Sintron part is the extruder motor holder. That works just fine for now. Otherwise, my machine is all metal including the effector.

It is true what Sintron said. It does work when you buy it. But it is not accurate. It is not easy to fix the items that do break. It took hundreds of hours to correct things wrong with the printer. Only to find out it was because the PLA cracked and messed up the tuning. Then my arduino board kept getting fried. But I dont think I would have even bought a 3D printer if Sintron didnt trick me into thinking it was so cheap.

Mine is also more upgrades than kit. All original printed parts are gone, replaced with either linear rails or parts I've reprinted in PETG or ABS.

It's been a fun learning experience, I've learnt way more about printers than I would have if I'd just bought an Ultimaker or similar. I enjoy the tinkerer's journey

I have to agree with nebian, my printer is mostly upgrades. However, I never expected it to be anything else. At the price, I never expected it to be a $3000 printer. I just wanted something that would allow me to get my feet wet and allow me to learn about 3D printers. I believe that this was the perfect kit for my expectations.

What gets me about the makerbot is that it only prints in PLA? The main reason I wanted a Kossel or similar is the ability to print in more than just PLA which is very friable and brittle. And the Makerbot is over $1500.

Very interested in seeing the new revised sintron kossel parts that are being sold by them if anyone has purchased this kit recently. I have a suspicion that they might be slightly familiar to me already.. >_>

Although hopefully people are choosing better options than this printer now, I kind of hope not to see another picture of it.

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ohfurryone
Very interested in seeing the new revised sintron kossel parts that are being sold by them if anyone has purchased this kit recently. I have a suspicion that they might be slightly familiar to me already.. >_>

Although hopefully people are choosing better options than this printer now, I kind of hope not to see another picture of it.

I suspect they didn't revise anything…

On a related note, I have recently had my vertex melt a bit and the steppers tilt, so I redesigned the vertices with builtin bearings to support motor:



and printed in ABS. That leaves me with only some parts of carriages from the original kit, but hey I still do have some original printed parts!

Hey that's a great idea there hacker! I reprinted my vertices in PETG (original design), they are going fine so far.

There's not much of my original kit left either, and I'm about to do an upgrade to mine (0.9 degree steppers, metal effector, toothed idlers), but I have to say that the original all metal hotend has been an absolute champion. I've tried to get something similar for my other Delta, and have had a devil of a job trying to locate similar parts. I really like the way that the bowden tube goes right to the bottom of the fins, and it's metal from there onwards. I recently bought a couple of "all metal" hotends, which turned out to have the bowden tube upside down -- the nozzle touches the PTFE. "All metal" my butt.

I've also put an enclosure around mine, which really helps when printing ABS parts. It's not that hard to do.


By the way there are some really nice 3010 blower fans around on Aliexpress, they are very hard to find but worth it. I've got a couple in use on my other delta, used as layer fans, they are perfect for a small delta like ours. I'm in the process of designing some nice ducts for them, and will post the design soon.

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nebbian
Hey that's a great idea there hacker! I reprinted my vertices in PETG (original design), they are going fine so far.

There's not much of my original kit left either, and I'm about to do an upgrade to mine (0.9 degree steppers, metal effector, toothed idlers), but I have to say that the original all metal hotend has been an absolute champion. I've tried to get something similar for my other Delta, and have had a devil of a job trying to locate similar parts. I really like the way that the bowden tube goes right to the bottom of the fins, and it's metal from there onwards. I recently bought a couple of "all metal" hotends, which turned out to have the bowden tube upside down -- the nozzle touches the PTFE. "All metal" my butt.

I've also put an enclosure around mine, which really helps when printing ABS parts. It's not that hard to do.


By the way there are some really nice 3010 blower fans around on Aliexpress, they are very hard to find but worth it. I've got a couple in use on my other delta, used as layer fans, they are perfect for a small delta like ours. I'm in the process of designing some nice ducts for them, and will post the design soon.

Well, yes, I thought that just reprinting in PETG or ABS should do, but I thought, if I reprint it anyway, I'd enforce it and I'd also change the design a bit ,I didn't like the round part, so I did this:



I'm running it with e3dv6, but I didn't have problems with original hotend. Actually, yes, I changed it when it's got clogged, but I would've cleaned it and go on if I didn't have that e3d already.

You mean centrifugal 3010 blower? Sounds like a tiny one? (will look at it anyway, thanks for the tip). Speaking of fans on my e3d I replaced the stock fan shroud with the one I printed for 40mm fan and installed noctua (I think that's the name) fan and now it's totally silent when on.

I can't easily put on the enclosure, because I have a nozzle-cleaning servo on the side, so I'll have to leave a hole there…

Do 0.9 steppers make sense? I'm pretty happy with original steppers… One of a few original things: steppers, endstops and extrusions (+ aforementioned carriages). I think that's it ;-)

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hacker

You mean centrifugal 3010 blower? Sounds like a tiny one? (will look at it anyway, thanks for the tip). Speaking of fans on my e3d I replaced the stock fan shroud with the one I printed for 40mm fan and installed noctua (I think that's the name) fan and now it's totally silent when on.

I can't easily put on the enclosure, because I have a nozzle-cleaning servo on the side, so I'll have to leave a hole there…

Do 0.9 steppers make sense? I'm pretty happy with original steppers… One of a few original things: steppers, endstops and extrusions (+ aforementioned carriages). I think that's it ;-)

Yep centrifugal 3010 blower. Google b0503afb2-8 and you'll find it. See the attachment to see two of these fans on my other printer.

I'm going for 0.9 degree steppers to make it quieter. As it is, when you hit 40-50 mm/s it builds up a resonance in the frame which actually shows up in the print. My other printer doesn't have that resonance, so I reckon it's worth a try.

The enclosure is here: [www.thingiverse.com]

I love seeing other people's printers, and their mods... do you have any more pictures of mods you've done?

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nebbian

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hacker

You mean centrifugal 3010 blower? Sounds like a tiny one? (will look at it anyway, thanks for the tip). Speaking of fans on my e3d I replaced the stock fan shroud with the one I printed for 40mm fan and installed noctua (I think that's the name) fan and now it's totally silent when on.

I can't easily put on the enclosure, because I have a nozzle-cleaning servo on the side, so I'll have to leave a hole there…

Do 0.9 steppers make sense? I'm pretty happy with original steppers… One of a few original things: steppers, endstops and extrusions (+ aforementioned carriages). I think that's it ;-)

Yep centrifugal 3010 blower. Google b0503afb2-8 and you'll find it. See the attachment to see two of these fans on my other printer.

I'm going for 0.9 degree steppers to make it quieter. As it is, when you hit 40-50 mm/s it builds up a resonance in the frame which actually shows up in the print. My other printer doesn't have that resonance, so I reckon it's worth a try.

The enclosure is here: [www.thingiverse.com]

I love seeing other people's printers, and their mods... do you have any more pictures of mods you've done?

Nice blower, thanks for pointing it out, maybe I will play around with it too.

After I installed duetwifi it became so silent (microstepping) so I don't even think of silencing it anymore ;-)

Loved enclosure, maybe one day I'll think of incorporating it somehow…

As for my mods… I should, of course, put stuff together and publish along with designs, but I normally don't have time for it, here are somethings I have:

The glass holder (was suffering all kinds of machinery failing to satisfy me, now I'm relatively happy with my design): [www.thingiverse.com]

The effector assembly (effector with integrated probe, fanduct… a bit outdated now): [www.thingiverse.com]

Vertices above, yet unpublished, and other stuff I've already shown here, I believe, like duet holder, led clips.

Can anyone here print completely flat across the whole build plate without the nozzle travelling too high or low with roller carriages?

I have not had any consistent long lasting success with rollers. If it's not the plastic bending after a few months it's the bearings wearing out. I'm looking to print at 0.1 - 0.2 layer heights.

I will also agree that the Sintron hotend is excellent, mine has never jammed. It is my bae and the biggest issue when sourcing parts suppliers. I've found sintrons parts quality is quite good, if only they fixed the dodgy design issues sooner.

Whatever alibaba company they buy them from does an amazing job!

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ohfurryone
Can anyone here print completely flat across the whole build plate without the nozzle travelling too high or low with roller carriages?

I have not had any consistent long lasting success with rollers. If it's not the plastic bending after a few months it's the bearings wearing out. I'm looking to print at 0.1 - 0.2 layer heights.

I will also agree that the Sintron hotend is excellent, mine has never jammed. It is my bae and the biggest issue when sourcing parts suppliers. I've found sintrons parts quality is quite good, if only they fixed the dodgy design issues sooner.

Whatever alibaba company they buy them from does an amazing job!

You don't mean the 22cm heated bed, do you? I think I can effectively print within about 17cm diameter circle. I used to go beyond that to clean nozzle, but generally no, this is not the area where I would feel comfortable to print. Actually, when I go beyond that my blower hits glass holder. Other than that, within 17cm I can print pretty fine. Still haven't changed bearings, though I had to reprint two of the three carriages in PETG (without changing design). I'm fine printing 0.1mm layers (though it's slow), but don't feel comfortable starting with 0.1 layer, so the first layer in this case is normally still 0.2. It may be a relic of the times when I couldn't get my bed normally calibrated, I should try 0.1 first layer one day again ;-)

Hi guys, I just bought this kit........and THEN found this foum :-)
If I had read this, then I probably would not have bouth this kit. but another delta.
But it seems that the newbies on here have learnt a great deal on all the mistakes of the kit, so im probably in the same boat :-)

I hope they have updated the kit since the start of the thread, but I cant realy see any differences.












Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/30/2016 01:01PM by SJN.

I have never built a kit, but have bought the Malyan M150 printer from hobbyking, which Im very happy with. Prints great.
Jjust wanted to try one of these cool looking Delta printers. :-)

I have ordered the traxxas ball links, and will probably order a 30amp PSU instead of the included wimpy 10A












Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/30/2016 01:01PM by SJN.

Welcome aboard, if you already ordered traxxas and have another printer, I guess you're all set to get it to work ;-) Actually, I think having traxxas or another printer should theoretically be enough to get it working

Thanks.

The build is going well so far.
The parts are quite a slim fit into each other, but I managed. I forgot to put the T nuts int the bottom base holding the XYZ bars, and I did not want to take them out again, so I decided to drill 2.3mm holes all the way through, and tap them to 3mm. Works great



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/30/2016 03:30PM by SJN.

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SJN
Thanks.

The build is going well so far.
The parts are quite a slim fit into each other, but I managed. I forgot to put the T nuts int the bottom base holding the XYZ bars, and I did not want to take them out again, so I decided to drill 2.3mm holes all the way through, and tap them to 3mm. Works great

I forgot one or two myself, but the fit is so tight that I never bothered to do anything until a week or two ago when I replaced vertices altogether (see pics a few posts ago; and this time, as they aren't so tight, assembling was much more agreeable experience).

The worst part of the original build was getting the original pushrods to work (you are skipping that part) and getting z-probe to work (which I more or less never did with the original design).

I realy dont like the autolevel probe. It seems so primitive.

Can I just level the bed instead?

How does the delta printer know where the bed is when the home switchs are in the top?

My M150 has them at the bed surface.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/30/2016 03:36PM by SJN.

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SJN
I realy dont like the autolevel probe. It seems so primitive.

Can I just level the bed instead?

How does the delta printer know where the bed is when the home switchs are in the top?

My M150 has them at the bed surface.

Well, that's what probe is for ;-) You start with initial values and the rest is probed. And it depends on the firmware how much is probed/calibrated and how much is set manually, since I've moved to duet electronics the only information you really need to set is the length of pushrods. And, of course the height (because you neither want to slowly seek for bed from the very top, nor crash into bed). But after you calibrated, it know where your endstops are.

Having endstop at the bottom isn't perfect in my opinion, especially if you happen to set it too low, I redesigned my cartesian printer to use probe instead of Zmin endstop too.

But back to your question — yes, you can level everything manually and that's what I did in the very beginning.

Thanks.

It looks like they changed the effector so the metsl balls dont interfere any more. But the ball distance on the effector is now 38.50, and 39.50 on the carrige. Should these dimensions not be exactly the same to keep the arms parallel?





Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/30/2016 06:38PM by SJN.

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SJN
Thanks.

It looks like they changed the effector so the metsl balls dont interfere any more. But the ball distance on the effector is now 38.50, and 39.50 on the carrige. Should these dimensions not be exactly the same to keep the arms parallel?

[attachment 86786 IMG_20161201_002545.jpg]

[attachment 86787 IMG_20161201_002835.jpg]

They did what? Cripes. Say what you like about the Chinese, they are great at copying stuff, but not that fantastic at making mods that actually *work*.

Yes, both distances need to be identical, as close as you can possibly get. 1mm difference is huge, and will result in massive effector tilt, causing very strange and inconsistent X/Y scaling on your print.

You can either find washers to space out the effector, or file off some of the carriages. As you're using Traxxas balls you should be able to safely do either. Aim to get the distances within at least 0.05mm everywhere. If you do have some imbalances, pair the largest side of the effector with the largest carriage (and the same with the smallest side).

Regarding levelling, I did get the provided level sensor to work (deploy, probe, retract), but it was fiddly and not all that reliable once it was all said and done. There was too much friction in the vertical tube running through the effector to make it reliable.

For now just level it manually. Once you're up and printing, then think about getting a good level sensor, there are several options.


As you're just starting out, check out the "Documentation" link here: [www.think3dprint3d.com]
Specifically you want the release 2 documentation. This is the best set of documentation that I've found for building a mini delta.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/30/2016 07:40PM by nebbian.

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nebbian

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SJN
Thanks.

It looks like they changed the effector so the metsl balls dont interfere any more. But the ball distance on the effector is now 38.50, and 39.50 on the carrige. Should these dimensions not be exactly the same to keep the arms parallel?

[attachment 86786 IMG_20161201_002545.jpg]

[attachment 86787 IMG_20161201_002835.jpg]

They did what? Cripes. Say what you like about the Chinese, they are great at copying stuff, but not that fantastic at making mods that actually *work*.

Yes, both distances need to be identical, as close as you can possibly get. 1mm difference is huge, and will result in massive effector tilt, causing very strange and inconsistent X/Y scaling on your print.

You can either find washers to space out the effector, or file off some of the carriages. As you're using Traxxas balls you should be able to safely do either. Aim to get the distances within at least 0.05mm everywhere. If you do have some imbalances, pair the largest side of the effector with the largest carriage (and the same with the smallest side).

Regarding levelling, I did get the provided level sensor to work (deploy, probe, retract), but it was fiddly and not all that reliable once it was all said and done. There was too much friction in the vertical tube running through the effector to make it reliable.

For now just level it manually. Once you're up and printing, then think about getting a good level sensor, there are several options.


As you're just starting out, check out the "Documentation" link here: [www.think3dprint3d.com]
Specifically you want the release 2 documentation. This is the best set of documentation that I've found for building a mini delta.

I think adding washers may result in pushrods interference again, though it doesn't matter much for traxxas.

From the pictures I got the impression, though, that they did not fix the carriage and the balls would still interfere with the sliding part of the carriage once assembled. Not that I can really tell by the picture.

The original probe was problematic because of friction, the plastic part that besides falling apart was also too big and interfered with heatsink and the allen key was too thin and tended to bend. I first redesigned to use a thicker allen key (and e3d hotend) before it was actually usable.

The metal balls are just not a good match for this printer....

What is the optimal arm length center to center... 22cm?


I ptinted some new end stop holders. There is room for the solder islands on the rear side of them. Much more steady setup thsn the flst plastic peices included.

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SJN
The metal balls are just not a good match for this printer....

What is the optimal arm length center to center... 22cm?


I ptinted some new end stop holders. There is room for the solder islands on the rear side of them. Much more steady setup thsn the flst plastic peices included.

[attachment 86803 IMG_20161201_104217.jpg]

[attachment 86804 IMG_20161201_104244.jpg]

[attachment 86805 IMG_20161201_104336.jpg]

[attachment 86806 IMG_20161201_104423.jpg]

[attachment 86807 IMG_20161201_110040.jpg]

[attachment 86808 IMG_20161201_110105.jpg]

Must be tempting low hanging fruit, I think we have all designed our own endstops for various reasons, I for instance, was more concerned about keeping it from turning around too much. Should've taken care of solder islands, but didn't [www.thingiverse.com] ;-) The extremely sophisticated ultimate endstop design is yet to come, I think ;-)

I'm not sure about the optimal distance, but mine are 215mm which is pretty close to 220. I think I made 220 first from the stuff I've had, but then when I decided to do that properly I bought ready made instead (IIRC, from T3DP3D) and those were 215

At 01:30 AM CET a new mini kossel opened its eyes for the first time, and was born :-)

Its allive :-)

Just connected everything up exept the heatbed and temp probe, and hot end and temp probe.
Seems to be working.

I thought the board would be completly blank of any software, but it seems that there is marlin firmware allready on it since I can see the menue on the LCD ?

The manual is not great with this product, so there are some loose ends :-)
How am I supposed to connect the 2 temperature probs to the pins on the board ?
What are all the singe wire ribbon bales for ? (solder the temp probe wires to them so I can connecet them to the board ? )

I thought that I got 5 stepper motor drivers, but one of them is different than the others. What is it ? it looks similar, but not quite if you look carefully.

Im ordereing a 30A power supply, and a solide state relay for the heatbed.
But im going to use the included 10A just to set it up until the new one arrives.
There are 2 COM termianls for the minus, and 2 +V terminals for the positives on the power supply. Are these 2 pairs of terminals equal, or does one supply more current than the other terminal ?



















Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 12/01/2016 08:32PM by SJN.

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SJN
At 01:30 AM CET a new mini kossel opened its eyes for the first time, and was born :-)

Its allive :-)

Just connected everything up exept the heatbed and temp probe, and hot end and temp probe.
Seems to be working.

I thought the board would be completly blank of any software, but it seems that there is marlin firmware allready on it since I can see the menue on the LCD ?

The manual is not great with this product, so there are some loose ends :-)
How am I supposed to connect the 2 temperature probs to the pins on the board ?
What are all the singe wire ribbon bales for ? (solder the temp probe wires to them so I can connecet them to the board ? )

I thought that I got 5 stepper motor drivers, but one of them is different than the others. What is it ? it looks similar, but not quite if you look carefully.

Im ordereing a 30A power supply, and a solide state relay for the heatbed.
But im going to use the included 10A just to set it up until the new one arrives.
There are 2 COM termianls for the minus, and 2 +V terminals for the positives on the power supply. Are these 2 pairs of terminals equal, or does one supply more current than the other terminal ?

I remember I asked them about the ribbon and they said that one is meant to connect them in series to attach Z-probe. I don't think you will want to do that, so perhaps you will find a better use. I also remember I asked them what's the green thick cable about and they said this one is to cut in two halves (of the same color) and connect PSU (which I didn't use, still sits in the box).

I don't see why would you have 5 steppers at all, but I don't remember how many I had. I can imagine one may slightly differ for the extruder?

The rest I don't remember or don't know…

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SJN
I thought the board would be completely blank of any software, but it seems that there is marlin firmware already on it since I can see the menue on the LCD ?

Yes, it's shipped with Marlin preinstalled.

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SJN
How am I supposed to connect the 2 temperature probs to the pins on the board ?
What are all the singe wire ribbon bales for ? (solder the temp probe wires to them so I can connect them to the board ? )

Yes, that's one of the way. You can use them as a donor of connectors or as wire extenders.
Personally me bought pin connectors (the same as on ribbon wires) and used them to attach white wires directly.

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SJN
I thought that I got 5 stepper motor drivers, but one of them is different than the others. What is it ? it looks similar, but not quite if you look carefully.

They always include extra one as spare. Because this part can be faulty rather often. (Actually, 99% of kits provides spare driver.)
But mine five were absolutely identical.
If yours have the same (square) chip they are the same too, even if the PCB is slightly differ.

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SJN
There are 2 COM termianls for the minus, and 2 +V terminals for the positives on the power supply. Are these 2 pairs of terminals equal, or does one supply more current than the other terminal ?

They are the same. Literally, they are interconnected inside of PSU. It's just for easement of connection.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/02/2016 03:54AM by GrAndAG.

The two terminal pairs feed different parts of the board using two fuses. One is for steppers and general stuff, the other is exclusively for the heat bed.