Ebay SINTRON Kossel Mini full kit

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hacker
Actually, with e3d hotend, at least with original e3d fan shroud there's very little danger that effector will warp, even the lowest heatsink fins are cold to touch at all times. And I only replaced effector due to my insatiable appetite for improvements and urge to design ;-)

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DRTak

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CrisCG
My Sintron effector warped as well. I got a ABS effector now, with the e3d v6 hotend.

CrisCG. Really yours warped too. How did you find out? Were you getting odd prints and you checked?

I have ABS moulded carriages which is fine because no real heat goes there. But Im afraid to buy, print, or have ABS printed/molded effector since I am going to experiment with exotic filaments. And they use high temps. I want to make sure that if a fan goes down, the effector wont warp again. So I am left with one solution. Metal.

From a cost point, this is the same price. I dont know why the nylon effector central hole has to be moveable? But I DID NOT get this one: [www.amazon.com]

The other high end one was this one. It has the electronic hookups prebuilt into the effector as well as an LED light. But cost too much and also made of nylon or glass fiber. [www.amazon.com]

There are some odd things about the Sintron machine that Im amazed no one has talked about. The machine at least mine is made with almost all M3 screws and nuts. The effector is M3. So if you google M3 metal effector very little comes up. The ones that do fit do not really fit. They have a 16mm central hole with a 13mm lip inside of the hole. Therefore the hotend cannot completely go through the effector. I have decided to buy one of these. But now there is no existing U mount groove plate to affix the hotend to the metal effector. NONE of the Kossel plates are 4.5mm in thickeness. So my solution was to cut the J head aluminum mounting plate that I had left over. It looks exactly like this: [www.amazon.com]

But again, this leaves me with no way to mount my IR sensor. I will have to find a solution for that.

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CrisCG
Did anyone else encounter this issue? It prints ok, but it doesn't look ok for long term.

I guess the belt is not tight enough. Of course, i retightned it by hand as much as i could.

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StrikerofDeath
hi! i don't have any printer, but i have some robotic knowledge and community of 3d printer's is big help, i think

seriously? he sell the printer like 200mm of impression diameter and it only makes 160mm?

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StrikerofDeath
hi! i don't have any printer, but i have some robotic knowledge and community of 3d printer's is big help, i think

seriously? he sell the printer like 200mm of impression diameter and it only makes 160mm?

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hacker
Nice one. The "old" one isn't old enough to be sintron. Carriages are black, paneldue doesn't look sintronish too ;-)

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nebbian
DrTak, I like those feet! I also really like the way you've got a power button on board. That's planned for mine, but hasn't happened yet.

I've got all the parts for this fire suppression system, but haven't yet printed up a holder for it:
[forums.reprap.org]

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hacker
The more I look at DRTak's pictures, the more I think of metal corners ;-)

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DrTak
Next, I wish someone would sell that fire suppression system for the Kossel. I only say that because I have had at least 3 instances where my Ramps started to smoke. I have a duet now but you never know.

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o_lampe

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DrTak
Next, I wish someone would sell that fire suppression system for the Kossel. I only say that because I have had at least 3 instances where my Ramps started to smoke. I have a duet now but you never know.

Better save than sorry, they say.
But wouldn't it be better to take care of the ( known ) issues a RAMPS can have? Exchange MOSFETs, replace fuses with blade fuses, check the power connector and use crimped wires, etc...

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DRTak
Thanks hacker. I really like them. I had 3 choices. That is all that exists really. 1. These metal corners which I assume are made in china. Everyone sells these. ebay option 2. A custom USA one that is exceedingly expensive. But I think they are very very strong and foolproof. ebay listing 3. ABS molded ones. I opted not for the abs ones b/c I fear they will melt like my printed 3d corners did. Also, I didnt get ABS printed effector for the same reason. I know it will melt like my 3d printed abs effector did. ebay molded

I opted for choice #1. I didnt buy from that vendor. I paid more for a USA seller. But its the same thing.

The metal effector I bought is this one: One that I got It is a drop in replacement for the Kossel. The other ones will not be. They are all M4 screws. The effector for the Kossel is an M3. This is the only vendor that I could find in the USA that sold an M3 effector.

Next, I wish someone would sell that fire suppression system for the Kossel. I only say that because I have had at least 3 instances where my Ramps started to smoke. I have a duet now but you never know.

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hacker

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DRTak
Thanks hacker. I really like them. I had 3 choices. That is all that exists really. 1. These metal corners which I assume are made in china. Everyone sells these. ebay option 2. A custom USA one that is exceedingly expensive. But I think they are very very strong and foolproof. ebay listing 3. ABS molded ones. I opted not for the abs ones b/c I fear they will melt like my printed 3d corners did. Also, I didnt get ABS printed effector for the same reason. I know it will melt like my 3d printed abs effector did. ebay molded

I opted for choice #1. I didnt buy from that vendor. I paid more for a USA seller. But its the same thing.

The metal effector I bought is this one: One that I got It is a drop in replacement for the Kossel. The other ones will not be. They are all M4 screws. The effector for the Kossel is an M3. This is the only vendor that I could find in the USA that sold an M3 effector.

Next, I wish someone would sell that fire suppression system for the Kossel. I only say that because I have had at least 3 instances where my Ramps started to smoke. I have a duet now but you never know.

Thanks for the overview. Unfortunately, it's only of limited use for me since I'm in Europe (and also hate to deal with customs — that's why I bought sintron in the first place, because they had local warehouse), but this is something to work off.

As for the effector, I don't feel like getting the metal one, I keep experimenting with it. The last experiment being — [www.thingiverse.com] (in action —  [youtu.be] ).

But I also never felt the need. e3d hotend with e3d fan shroud is pretty cold. Previously I had PETG-printed effector, now it's PLA, maybe it will be worse with PLA, let's see.

I should think more about fire prevention, but so far I'm more or less around while it's printing, so I work as one (and no, I didn't have to do anything about it yet).

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DRTak
Your PETG effector should have been better than the ABS one? It has a higher melting point?

Well as I said. The heat from my heatsink crept up and melted my ABS effector. The only issue I have with my metal effector is that it is not forgiving when you have a homing error. My IR sensor was tilted out too far and it didnt detect the glass plate. So it rammed into the bed again and thats not a good thing.

I was looking at a bunch of printed Kossel effectors that would incorporate 3 fans into a very small space but couldnt find one. Then it also had to have a spot for an IR probe. Once I got the metal effector, I started looking for fan shrouds but they are very limited for the Hexagon hotend. So I am stuck with stringing up my own contraption. I cound a very nice fan shroud just for the heatsink. But I have to figure a way to make the object fan shrouds to fit the Hexagon.

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hacker

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DRTak
Your PETG effector should have been better than the ABS one? It has a higher melting point?

Well as I said. The heat from my heatsink crept up and melted my ABS effector. The only issue I have with my metal effector is that it is not forgiving when you have a homing error. My IR sensor was tilted out too far and it didnt detect the glass plate. So it rammed into the bed again and thats not a good thing.

I was looking at a bunch of printed Kossel effectors that would incorporate 3 fans into a very small space but couldnt find one. Then it also had to have a spot for an IR probe. Once I got the metal effector, I started looking for fan shrouds but they are very limited for the Hexagon hotend. So I am stuck with stringing up my own contraption. I cound a very nice fan shroud just for the heatsink. But I have to figure a way to make the object fan shrouds to fit the Hexagon.

Not sure about PETG vs ABS, but what I meant is that it's definitely better than PLA that I have now and what original is.

I'm too much attached to snail-like blowers and I like the idea of circular duct, so I was working around that… Also when I think I can I prefer to design the thing rather than settle with compromise. Doesn't always yield the best results, admittedly ;-)

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DRTak

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hacker

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DRTak
Your PETG effector should have been better than the ABS one? It has a higher melting point?

Well as I said. The heat from my heatsink crept up and melted my ABS effector. The only issue I have with my metal effector is that it is not forgiving when you have a homing error. My IR sensor was tilted out too far and it didnt detect the glass plate. So it rammed into the bed again and thats not a good thing.

I was looking at a bunch of printed Kossel effectors that would incorporate 3 fans into a very small space but couldnt find one. Then it also had to have a spot for an IR probe. Once I got the metal effector, I started looking for fan shrouds but they are very limited for the Hexagon hotend. So I am stuck with stringing up my own contraption. I cound a very nice fan shroud just for the heatsink. But I have to figure a way to make the object fan shrouds to fit the Hexagon.

Not sure about PETG vs ABS, but what I meant is that it's definitely better than PLA that I have now and what original is.

I'm too much attached to snail-like blowers and I like the idea of circular duct, so I was working around that… Also when I think I can I prefer to design the thing rather than settle with compromise. Doesn't always yield the best results, admittedly ;-)

Well I do like the circular duct around the nozzle like you have it. I just didnt want to print something like that since with PETG, the nozzle has goop around it. It would be hard to clean the goop off the nozzle.

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hacker

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DRTak

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hacker

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DRTak
Your PETG effector should have been better than the ABS one? It has a higher melting point?

Well as I said. The heat from my heatsink crept up and melted my ABS effector. The only issue I have with my metal effector is that it is not forgiving when you have a homing error. My IR sensor was tilted out too far and it didnt detect the glass plate. So it rammed into the bed again and thats not a good thing.

I was looking at a bunch of printed Kossel effectors that would incorporate 3 fans into a very small space but couldnt find one. Then it also had to have a spot for an IR probe. Once I got the metal effector, I started looking for fan shrouds but they are very limited for the Hexagon hotend. So I am stuck with stringing up my own contraption. I cound a very nice fan shroud just for the heatsink. But I have to figure a way to make the object fan shrouds to fit the Hexagon.

Not sure about PETG vs ABS, but what I meant is that it's definitely better than PLA that I have now and what original is.

I'm too much attached to snail-like blowers and I like the idea of circular duct, so I was working around that… Also when I think I can I prefer to design the thing rather than settle with compromise. Doesn't always yield the best results, admittedly ;-)

Well I do like the circular duct around the nozzle like you have it. I just didnt want to print something like that since with PETG, the nozzle has goop around it. It would be hard to clean the goop off the nozzle.

I prefer circular duct that can be easily moved away from nozzle if I want to clean it. But I'm not yet completely satisfied with it…

BTW, what are softening temperatures for ABS and PETG? I wonder whether I should do my next attempt on the duct in ABS or PETG…

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DRTak
I do not know the softening temp of those. But I have some real life experience with that issue. My IR Probe back cover ( to protect the electronics of the IR probe) was initally made of ABS. This started to warp and tilted the IR probe away from the nozzle. It warped from the heat of the nozzle and heatbreak. I re- printed it in PETG. NO issues whatsoever. No sign at all of warping.

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DRTak
Yeah. just changing material.

But on another note. I am having major issues printing in PLA. For me PETG is easier to print with. It seems that I cant get enough heated filament out of the nozzle. Doesnt make sense.

Oddly, this is a new nozzle and is exactly 0.4mm. My older hotend I mistakenly bore out too much and it was like a 1mm hole. Of course with that nozzle I was able to run my extruder at full speed. Now with my new hotend I am stuck figuring out new settings.

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hacker

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DRTak
Yeah. just changing material.

But on another note. I am having major issues printing in PLA. For me PETG is easier to print with. It seems that I cant get enough heated filament out of the nozzle. Doesnt make sense.

Oddly, this is a new nozzle and is exactly 0.4mm. My older hotend I mistakenly bore out too much and it was like a 1mm hole. Of course with that nozzle I was able to run my extruder at full speed. Now with my new hotend I am stuck figuring out new settings.

Interesting. In my experience PETG is slower to print than PLA… It is easier to print without adequate object cooling, though.