Ebay SINTRON Kossel Mini full kit

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GrAndAG

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SJN
I thought that I got 5 stepper motor drivers, but one of them is different than the others. What is it ? it looks similar, but not quite if you look carefully.

They always include extra one as spare. Because this part can be faulty rather often. (Actually, 99% of kits provides spare driver.)
But mine five were absolutely identical.
If yours have the same (square) chip they are the same too, even if the PCB is slightly differ.

I should've been reading better, stepper drivers, no steppers ;-) Now I remember there was a spare.

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o_lampe
The two terminal pairs feed different parts of the board using two fuses. One is for steppers and general stuff, the other is exclusively for the heat bed.

On the RAMPS board, yes, these terminals are different. But the question was about PSU terminals.
Eventually, they are all connected together ("+" and "-" separately, of cause ) in PSU.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/02/2016 07:02AM by GrAndAG.

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GrAndAG
"+" and "-" separately

At least something positive (even though half negative).

Thanks alot guys.
Got the temp probes installed on the ramps, and they work.

I have no experiance at all with printer firmware, so I was just messing around in the dark, and somehow uploaded something I was not supposed to, and my screen went blank.

A little panic :-)
Read through the PDF, and decided to use the old Arduino software, and the sintron firmware, and I got it all back to normal again :-)

I had pluggen in my endstops in incorrectly, in the " min " positions, instead of the "max" pins. That does not work :-)

Moved them to the correct pins on the ramps board, and noy it auto homes perfectly, and XYZ carage stop at the end switches.

Had to reverse the extruder stepper motor plug, as it was extruding backwards.

Now, just need to get my traxxas rod ends, so I can assemble the effector.......and I guess I will have to measure stuff, and setup the firmware to fit my mini kossel ??
Have not got to that stage yet.

I dont want to install the autolevel probe.
Do I have to disable something in the firmware for that ?

Im guessing that you have to somehow tell the hotend that the printbed is at a given distance from the top endstops, so it knows where 0.0.0 is ?









Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/02/2016 08:44AM by SJN.

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SJN
Had to reverse the extruder stepper motor plug, as it was extruding backwards.

Alternatively, you can reverse it in firmware.

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SJN
I dont want to install the autolevel probe.
Do I have to disable something in the firmware for that ?

You can do nothing for it. Just do not use autoprobe command.

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SJN
Im guessing that you have to somehow tell the hotend that the printbed is at a given distance from the top endstops, so it knows where 0.0.0 is ?

Yes. You have to specify height of your printing area, so the firmware will know the offset of hot-end from printing bed when the hotend is parked on endstops.

Great thanks

I have another question.
My Z axis is 235 at the top stops at the moment.
If I manualy go into the prepare menue, movement, Z axis, and dial it to 135
Should it not move exactly 100mm down then ?
I drew a mark at one of the carage wheels, and another mark 100mm down and I was expecting it to go 100mm , but it moves about 120mm down instead.

is there something wrong with my settings ?




#define XYZ_FULL_STEPS_PER_ROTATION 200
#define XYZ_MICROSTEPS 16
#define XYZ_BELT_PITCH 2
#define XYZ_PULLEY_TEETH 20
#define XYZ_STEPS (XYZ_FULL_STEPS_PER_ROTATION * XYZ_MICROSTEPS / double(XYZ_BELT_PITCH) / double(XYZ_PULLEY_TEETH))

#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80, 80, 80, 94}
#define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {300, 300, 300, 300} // (mm/sec)
#define DEFAULT_MAX_ACCELERATION {1000,1000,1000,1000} // X, Y, Z, E maximum start speed for accelerated moves. E default values are good for skeinforge 40+, for older versions raise them a lot.

#define DEFAULT_ACCELERATION 3000 // X, Y, Z and E max acceleration in mm/s^2 for printing moves
#define DEFAULT_RETRACT_ACCELERATION 3000 // X, Y, Z and E max acceleration in mm/s^2 for retracts

// Offset of the extruders (uncomment if using more than one and relying on firmware to position when changing).
// The offset has to be X=0, Y=0 for the extruder 0 hotend (default extruder).
// For the other hotends it is their distance from the extruder 0 hotend.
// #define EXTRUDER_OFFSET_X {0.0, 20.00} // (in mm) for each extruder, offset of the hotend on the X axis
// #define EXTRUDER_OFFSET_Y {0.0, 5.00} // (in mm) for each extruder, offset of the hotend on the Y axis

// The speed change that does not require acceleration (i.e. the software might assume it can be done instantaneously)
#define DEFAULT_XYJERK 20.0 // (mm/sec)
#define DEFAULT_ZJERK 20.0 // (mm/sec)
#define DEFAULT_EJERK 20.0 // (mm/sec)

Well, it works

I have not calibrated the extruder, and ir is obviosly under extruding at the moment. Its also extremly fast compared to my Malyan M150.

My 20x20mm test cube is spot on. Ofcourse the ugly under extruded sides are not 100% accurate, but the bottom and top are.

Looks great, congrats! Not just faster, I generally find deltas tons sexier than cartesian. (I have a feeling that my original sintron hotend looked differently and heatbreak wasn't this long, but I can't check right now, it's in somewhat inaccessible box).

Yea, its ok for the first prints.

Its actualy doing realy well considdering that it has not been tweaked that much.

Im quite satisfied with my kit.

The hardware works, but the manual is horrible. So gld I found this forum











Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/03/2016 06:47PM by SJN.

Would you share your retraction settings? Love your benchy!

The bench could be much better. Been working alot, and have not had time to fine tune it.

In this print the retraction is 3mm at 50 mm/s
Print speed 40mm/s I think it was at 0.25mm layer height......

But it is far from perfect







Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/08/2016 07:15PM by SJN.

Hi again guys.

I just tried to print a little larger and complex thing than usual, and now im experiancing some stuttering in the print......it pauses, and thinks a bit before going on..... how can I fix this ?

I tried disabling the LCD,....tried to change the refrash rate of the LCD from 100 to 50, tried to reduce the delta curve to 80, and printed from SC card....printed form USB No changes at all......

Video: [www.youtube.com]

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 12/13/2016 02:24PM by SJN.

SJN, from the video it looks like the printer does pause on retractions (before and after idle moves). So check retraction speed, z-hop settings, etc in the slicer. You can try to look in G-code file and find appropriate commands for "problematic positions" and check if they are correct.

Thanks...did not think of that.

will have a look :-)

I also upgraded the firmware ro RC8...still the same.
Will look into the slicer now...

Awesome spotted GrAndAG

I had changed the profile in Cura, and the retraction was at 6.5mm default for some reason....a bit too much, and causing the pause when printing the short support material in this design :-)
Im happy its not a memory buffer problem or some hardware related thing :-)

I'm surprised you have good print results with a heatbrake that isn't cooled appropriate:



Did you have an clogged hotend by now?

Usually the heatbrake should disappear almost completely in the heatsink...

No problems at all. The cooling fins on the cold part are .....very cool :-)

I have printed quite a bit so far, and Im quite pleased.

Right now, Im trying to minimize the blobs/seam that are on my prints.....but Im not having much luck.....but still experimenting, and learning

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The cooling fins on the cold part are .....very cool :-)

Sure they are cool, because they don't suck up much heat from the heatbrake.

Well, what can I say.... It works

My 10A power supply works great too, and the voltage is steady 12,55v with, and without load. Have only had the temps to 210, and 60 max though. Power set to 150 heatcycle in the config.h .

But im realy liking this printer. Getting it dialed in eventualy.

It is impossible to make a 3d benchy perfect without a nozzle cooler, so im in the process to print one.




















Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/15/2016 12:09PM by SJN.

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o_lampe
I'm surprised you have good print results with a heatbrake that isn't cooled appropriate:

Did you have an clogged hotend by now?

Usually the heatbrake should disappear almost completely in the heatsink...

That's what I meant in my comment about heatbreak above. I've just found my original sintron hotend — its heatbreak is about 5mm long, still quite long, though the one pictured looks longer. I'm not sure if that should contribute to low quality of prints, I think it's more like increasing the likelihood of hotend clogging. Looks like even that is not all so dramatic. I think, since there's no fan shroud, the heatbreak also gets its share of cool air from heatsink fan.

Yea, I also noticed my stock hotend differes from the pics earlier in this thread.

I was actualy a little disapointed that I got a differen one..... But now im pleased with it

Found my post regarding hearbreak length when I received my kit year ago:

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GrAndAG
I've got a caliper and made some measurements of my hot-end.

The hole inside of heatsink is 19mm in deep. But heatbarrier goes only to 16.5mm inside. Even if the hole will be full threaded it still needs 2.5mm of deepness.

Fan installed

Stepper motor driver failed today..... No cooling

I installed the included heatsinks with the thick heat conducting foam pads on them. Ran the printer, and felt the heatsinks, and they were only luke warm...... Fine I thought.

Now, after the failure, i removed the foam, and glued the heatsinks directly to the driver chip, and they get VERY hot! The foam pads stink at conducting heat.

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SJN
Stepper motor driver failed today..... No cooling

I installed the included heatsinks with the thick heat conducting foam pads on them. Ran the printer, and felt the heatsinks, and they were only luke warm...... Fine I thought.

Now, after the failure, i removed the foam, and glued the heatsinks directly to the driver chip, and they get VERY hot! The foam pads stink at conducting heat.

[attachment 87474 IMG_20161217_132844.jpg]

I don't think I had my drivers too hot back when I had ramps. Maybe you're feeding too much current into motors? Can't tell what was that back with ramps, but according to duet my motors are operating at 600mA each (extruder 1A, but that's irrelevant, I have neither original motor, nor original mechanics of the extruder).

how do I adjust the current ?

I have not changed anything from stock.

My tepper motors are at normal temperature after a long print.

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 12/17/2016 01:11PM by SJN.

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SJN
how do I adjust the current ?

I have not changed anything from stock.

My tepper motors are at normal temperature after a long print.

I'm actually not sure if the driver itself overheats because of too much current (though why not?) and if you say your motors aren't overheating that may not be it… At any rate, try googling for stepper driver calibration or some such. In essence, the trimpot is clearly visible on the picture of the driver you posted and you adjust it to the minimum where the steppers do not skip.

Adjusting stepper drivers Vref is here

Thanks guys. I ordered a pack of 5 more drivers... They are so inexpensive But im quite sure that I wont burn any more....

Just test printed the bow for an rc boat..... Only the bottom layer is messed up because my bed is not level..... Easy fix.

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SJN
Just test printed the bow for an rc boat..... Only the bottom layer is messed up because my bed is not level..... Easy fix.

Looks disgustingly perfect! What's the layer height? And how long? And what's the filament?