Bad base layer

Hi,
I'm a begginer with 3d printings. As can be seen in the attach, the base layer has like the strings not toghether and loose. The rest of the print look OK

Can anyone tell me how i can fix this?

I checked the calibration and think its ok.

THANKS!

I was reading and think it's the brim made by Slic3r. Is there a way to take it out?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/02/2015 10:29AM by Vitbok.

Thinking is not knowing
If you have a first layer like that your calibration can't be properly, period.
To me it looks like the print starts in mid air instead of the print bed.
You want the first layer to be "pushed into" the print bed for proper adhesion.
This should give a totally flat first layer and only in areas where the print bed is uneven you can get some overextrusion.

Thanks Downunder35m
i followed the tutorials of leveling and tested with the sheet of paper, if you think there is the problem, will give it another try

I can't tell what side is up. Print a 20 mm test cube.

If I check my nozzle height with a piece of paper I struggle even on my flat glass plate to get a fit in all spots of the biuld plate...
Especially when doing this from the homing position instead of the start of a print.
Also the layer height itself plays a role, same as the extrusion.

The first layer should be pressed onto the plate but only so far that it produces clean lines.
If the first layer looks like on the image it can't have started on the build platform.
Also the entire print looks unlcean and uneven, which makes me think the entire calibration is based more a good guess than a properly measured check.
We need much more info to go on...

I have not read the other posts so sorry if im repeating someone. Here is what cause my bad starting layer(s)

my extruder too far from bed, causing filament to fall instead of squished onto base. If the bed is level, and the nozzle is as close to the bed as possible without touching it, try adding another layer of tape.
bed temp too low, causing first layer to slide around

hope it helps.

PS dont remove the brim, it actually does something other than nicely outline the print; It adds a small heat buffer by storing a little heat around the print so less excapes. Or something like that. I actually print with a double brim.

let us know if u fix it and what was causing it

Not to make your head spin more than it is but, Repeatable Z home position with cheaper printers is almost impossible using (2) Z motors. I converted mine to (1) motor and the difference is astounding. That being said, before this conversion I had to "Pause" my print during the Skirt and Brim and re-measure the z gap and adjust before resuming the print. For what ever reason the print Z height and Home Z height were always to wide. With my .4 nozzle I use a First Layer Height of .26, all other layers are .3 and my Extrusion Multiplier is at .95 instead of the default "1". This setting will change for every type of hotend. With all these settings my bottom and top layers show rows that just touch each other with virtually no bulging at their edges. Changing the Multiplier from .85 to .95 in many test runs eventually led me to near perfect spacing of the rows. Our local Digital Dentist has many a post on (3) Point Leveling and the problems with (4) point leveling. You could do worse than to read as many of his posts as possible. Keep in mind that 6 months to a year is not an unreasonable amount of time to figure all this out so don't give up. Soon you'll be like the rest of us, thinking that (you) know what the hell is going on.

If you have that much troubles than it is not because because of 2 z motors.
I have two as well and no problems, that thing is going for a few years now.
Comes down to how how it was made and put together

Fixed the base layer problem!
Took me a time to check all the calibration, fixed that and got a good first layer.



Thanks to all for the answers!!!

Would it be too much to ask for some more detailed info on your fix?
After all this it would really make the topic look better with the solution posted...

When was making the leveling of the 4 points of the bed figured it out that fixing one side didnt help on the other one. by doing this also noticed, the Z axis where not leveled. Manualy turned, leveled the bed, and worked

It's a really good advice first layer to be "pushed into" the print bed for proper adhesion.

Then i found out the problem of removing the print from the glass (fixed with 15 mins of freezer)

THANKS AGAIN!