ABS Ormerod parts

Hi everyone,

Anyone know of anyone who is producing replacement Ormerod parts in ABS to sell ?

I'm new to 3D printing and love the Ormerod but I'd like to print with ABS eventually and don't want to run the risk of melting my Ormerod's PLA parts to do it.

Thanks.

KevM
I don't know of the long term effects of printing ABS on an Omerod will be. But I have been printing with it now for a week or so and have not detected any damage to the printer. I'm sure you can print a spare set of parts before any damaged is incurred

John

Why not print a spare set of the critical parts in PLA first? Then you will have some to fall back on if you don't manage to print ABS replacements before the PLA ones distort too much.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Like johneato, I've been printing in abs on mine for some time, without any obvious effects (I've had to replace a few parts for other reasons though) - as dc42 suggests, running off some spares in PLA would be a good idea, then print off the critical bits in abs when you can. (reprappro has a list of critical bits in the commissioning notes, off the top of my head, the Xcarriage , hotend bracket and Z runner mount would be the ones I'd do - victors who's in South Africa with a much higher ambient than the UK had definite problems with the first two in that list).

Ray

My ambient temperature around 30-32 C and I tried to print ABS fan duct, heatsink duct, nozzle mount and X carriage so that I can replace it and print ABS without fear.
I started with X carriage , my Ormerod print halfway and nozzle mount softened and print head sag, rubbing freshly print surface and destroy. Replace with my spare one and print another new PLA nozzle mount just incase. start to print again and sag again before finish printing, so I put on replacement nozzle mount again, so far already 4 nozzle mount melted ,and not a single ABS parts print successfully. I have to give up and wanted to post here and ask if anyone can supply a set of fan duct, heatsink duct, nozzle mount and X carriage printed in ABS ,and then I found this thread. I already take some photos of fan duct / heatsink duct / nozzle mount and a X carriage which is out of shape, just incase anyone of you want to see it.

Count me in if anyone of you can supply me ABS parts, and I'm willing to buy from you ( even shipping cost is high to Asia country here. ) Printing in ABS are important to me, most of things I design and print need to be ABS, .

Yes you guys are right, I should print them myself, that is the whole point behind reprap, but I'll make myself some spares in PLA first as suggested.

Thanks for your help

KevM :

4 parts that will fail fast once you print ABS : Fan Duct, Heat sink duct, nozzle mount and X carriage. the nozzle mount need to be printed a few more extra in PLA first because it might fail before you successfully print one complete ABS part. I tried 4 times without success, cause by our ambient temperature. if your country temperature reads far below mine then you will be safe to print ABS.

good luck.

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tru168
KevM :

4 parts that will fail fast once you print ABS : Fan Duct, Heat sink duct, nozzle mount and X carriage. the nozzle mount need to be printed a few more extra in PLA first because it might fail before you successfully print one complete ABS part. I tried 4 times without success, cause by our ambient temperature. if your country temperature reads far below mine then you will be safe to print ABS.

good luck.

Or maybe print those parts with an ambient as low as you can manage - an air-conditioned room or late night / early morning / during a heavy storm. Cooling the Ormerod with a fan is probably not such a good idea because it could cause warping or other print defects, especially with ABS. I printed all my ABS parts with an ambient of around 22 degrees or so, and the PLA survived with no problem for the duration. IIUC, Vincent's problem, besides his 35 deg ambient, was that he did not know of the issue (there is no warning abut ABS printing in the instructions) and had consequently printed a lot of ABS before realising that he must replace the PLA parts, and so began those replacement prints well after the PLA had already begun to deform.

Dave
(#106)

Well I'm in the UK (Essex) so if I turn the heating off in here it's pretty damn cold
Has anyone discovered the ideal ambient for printing ABS ?

For those who are interested in ABS printed parts, you might want to have a look at my eBay auction

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KevM
Well I'm in the UK (Essex) so if I turn the heating off in here it's pretty damn cold
Has anyone discovered the ideal ambient for printing ABS ?

I'm also in the UK, and as said, printing in a room heated to 22 or 23 degrees C is fine. Much colder than 17 deg C, and the bed won't get to 100 degrees. I use 250 for hotend, 100-105 bed for first layer and 90-95 bed for other layers.

Dave
(#106)

KevM, I've printed ABS with ambient around 15 (my office uses aircon for heating as well as cooling, and I was worried the draught would cause problems), and at 23°C (my colleagues couldn't take it any more), with no problems. Ideally the air around the print should be still and warm (very warm) to minimise or slow down the contraction that can cause delamination of the higher layers, or warping of the bottom layers (particularly at edges and corners) - but moderate draughts around a comfortable room temp don't seem to cause problems for me (I did get some cracking on a 5 inch high print the other day). Under those conditions (room temp between 15 and 23 degrees C, the sensitive parts outlined above don't get past 40°C for me, the bracket maybe gets to 45, but I replaced that with acetal becasue the original was damaged by an accidental overheating of the hotend in December).

Ray

Thanks for the advice guys, my ABS arrived today so i'll start printing over the weekend.
Are there any recommended changes to the standard Ormerod settings for Slic3r that would suggest ?

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KevM
Thanks for the advice guys, my ABS arrived today so i'll start printing over the weekend.
Are there any recommended changes to the standard Ormerod settings for Slic3r that would suggest ?

The only changes needed are the temperatures.

Dave
(#106)

Try 235 for nozzle 115 for bed, thats what I use this time of year whatever the ambient, but 230, 110 in the summer, also bag ABS and stick a gel pack in it, ABS is hygroscopic, which causes little knots in the print.

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