dc42, could you please let me know where I can find a mechanical drawing of the ultrasonic transducer.

I'm going to design a mounting bracket for it, but could do with accurate dimensions.

Quote
stevelup
dc42, could you please let me know where I can find a mechanical drawing of the ultrasonic transducer.

I'm going to design a mounting bracket for it, but could do with accurate dimensions.

Early kits: [www.farnell.com] (type MA40S4S)

Non-early kits (subject to further testing to verify consistent performance): [www.farnell.com]

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].

Thanks!

btw I intend to design a transducer holder too this afternoon. It will be a larger version of the insulating spacer, with a cutout and whatever else is needed to hold the transducer against the board, in the same position that the transducer is glued in the photo in the instructions.

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I've now released the new firmware to fix the G32 auto bed compensation at [github.com]. Use the Raw button to download it.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/26/2014 02:22PM by dc42.

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Manual tests confirm this is now fixed - many thanks!

Just doing a print job now...

For the benefit of those who are in the process of assembling a kit 5 early, I have added design and STL files for an insulating cover that includes a holder for the ultrasonic transducer.



The new files are in the usual place [github.com]. You may need to extend the x-homing tab a little further in the +x-direction so that the IR sensor sees it before the insulator stops against the z-nut trap. I put an oversized piece of white sticky label on top of mine.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/27/2014 09:18AM by dc42.

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Hi dc42, good job !

In your hothend airduct there are only two holes for the airflow, but in the original ormerod part there are 3 holes.
When i tested Matt's solution, i had some issues when printing long parts or bridges over the y axis, this because the central hole is important to cool the PLA.
The same part printed with the original duct was better.
Now i'm using an hotend airduct with holes only on the upper side (only to cool the hothend) and an external auxiliary fan (stopped when print ABS) to cool the PLA.

Roberto

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RS Ormerod #117

Quote
gammasistemi
In your hothend airduct there are only two holes for the airflow, but in the original ormerod part there are 3 holes.
When i tested Matt's solution, i had some issues when printing long parts or bridges over the y axis, this because the central hole is important to cool the PLA.
The same part printed with the original duct was better.

Hi Roberto,

Yes I have the same concerns about the one-piece duct, especially when bridging. I'm wondering whether to try angling the the air outlets to direct the air more towards the nozzle. The main reason I am working with the one-piece duct is that the design files are in OpenScad, so I can easily modify it.

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Just printed the duct, might not fit it yet if it needs modifying

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Another RS Ormerod Mk1 meets the world

Retired now but I used to make....
CNC Machined Mk1 aluminium bed support plates for the Ormerod
CNC machined X-plates and ribs for Mk1 & Mk2 Ormerods
CNC machined bed support arms for the Mk2 Ormerod.
Dual Hot-End heatsink blocks.

Quote
Davek0974
Just printed the duct, might not fit it yet if it needs modifying

You don't have to use the one-piece duct with my sensor board, because johneato has kindly provided a variation on the standard 2-piece duct to include mounting holes for the board.

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Large delta printer [miscsolutions.wordpress.com], E3D tool changer, Robotdigg SCARA printer, Crane Quad and Ormerod

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Quote
dc42

Quote
Davek0974
Just printed the duct, might not fit it yet if it needs modifying

You don't have to use the one-piece duct with my sensor board, because johneato has kindly provided a variation on the standard 2-piece duct to include mounting holes for the board.

Ooh, nice, where would that be located please?

Just want to make sure I have all the parts printed for when I strip down to fit the board

---

Another RS Ormerod Mk1 meets the world

Retired now but I used to make....
CNC Machined Mk1 aluminium bed support plates for the Ormerod
CNC machined X-plates and ribs for Mk1 & Mk2 Ormerods
CNC machined bed support arms for the Mk2 Ormerod.
Dual Hot-End heatsink blocks.

Quote
Davek0974

Quote
dc42

Quote
Davek0974
Just printed the duct, might not fit it yet if it needs modifying

You don't have to use the one-piece duct with my sensor board, because johneato has kindly provided a variation on the standard 2-piece duct to include mounting holes for the board.

Ooh, nice, where would that be located please?

In the same folder at [github.com] as the other one. It's called Modified heatsink-duct12.stl. You'll also need to cut off the cable tie loop on the original fan duct.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/27/2014 04:02PM by dc42.

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Thanks getting it now

---

Another RS Ormerod Mk1 meets the world

Retired now but I used to make....
CNC Machined Mk1 aluminium bed support plates for the Ormerod
CNC machined X-plates and ribs for Mk1 & Mk2 Ormerods
CNC machined bed support arms for the Mk2 Ormerod.
Dual Hot-End heatsink blocks.

Hi Dc42

Kit arrived today, looks excellent, thanks.

Now i just need to chance my defect extruder stepper. Nice worke for the weekend

jan

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XB70

Quote
DC42
The new files are in the usual place [github.com]. You may need to extend the x-homing tab a little further in the +x-direction so that the IR sensor sees it before the insulator stops against the z-nut trap. I put an oversized piece of white sticky label on top of mine.

DC
I am a bit out of circulation at the moment as Im in Korea, but I do have my laptop and files are on the cloud so if you let me know the details of the changes you require I will sort it for you.
John

I just had a slight problem trying to attach a sensor board + insulator to the modified original heatsink duct. The screws were protruding nearly 4mm below the board, but the screw holes in the heatsink duct was only about 3mm deep. So I've just put a new version of the insulator on [github.com] which reduces the amount by which the screws protrude by 1mm.

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Hi folks,

As an alternative to re-printing the X-Axis motor mount, please find below my sensor tab. This mounts using the screw holes already present in the motor mount for a mechanical end stop. It will work both with and without the ultrasonic sensor.

sensorpad.scad
sensorpad.stl



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/28/2014 02:38PM by stevelup.

Steve, thanks! May I add those file to my github repository?

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I have just installed and commissioned my new kit 5 - all went in fine, looks great and everything appears to be working fine, BUT I have two commissioning niggles that I would appreciate some advice on:
1) when I disconnect the hot end thermistor during commissioning testing, as per DC's (excellent) instructions, the temperature reading doesn't drop to -273 as it apparently should, it only drops to a value between -2 & -5...thoughts anyone on what I've got wrong?
2) and I do realise this is a real newbie question which way should the fan be blowing?! I am still using the originally supplied fan and rewired it exactly as per the instructions, but now the fan appears to be pulling air out wards (i.e. Away from the heat sink ) rather than blow it into the heat sink as I could have sworn it was doing previously - can someone please put me right, as I'm refraining from printing until I'm sure

Try reversing the polarity of the thermistor connection at the Duet end.

The fan can't run backwards - if you had the polarity wrong, it wouldn't work at all.

Have you re-assembled it the right way round? The unprotected spinning bit should be on the outside and the label on the inside.

Hi MrCrispi,

1. Does the hot end fan come on when the thermistor is disconnected? Before you installed the new sensor board, did the hot end read -273 with the thermistor disconnected? Does it read -273 with the blue and green wires disconnected at the Duet end? (Take care that they don't short to anything else while they are disconnected, or you may blow the sensor board!) It is possible that some Duet boards may not read -273 with the thermistor disconnected, due to variation in the ADC.

Also, please check that you have the blue and green thermistor wires connected to the correct pins at both ends of the sensor cable.

2. Check that the fan is installed the right way round. However, there is a lot of backwash from the fan if you don't fit a backwash deflector, so the fan is probably blowing the right way and you are just feeling the backwash. Check that you can feel air coming our of the holes in the fan duct.

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Hot end fan does indeed come on when thermistor is disconnected and USB power is supplied. Hot end for me has never read -273 ... Used to read between -30 and -50 from memory. Whether I disconnect the blue and green wires at your probe board or duet board end, or just remove green wire from thermistor itself, temp reading as always -2 to -5 and all springs to life properly when all is connected.

The fan it is connected with the label facing in, and som air is coming out of the fan ducts...just seems to be much much more coming out of back! (Maybe I'm just realising how much backwash there is for the first time?)

Sounds like the board is working properly but your ADC is reading a few counts low at full scale. If you want, you can correct it as described in this post [forums.reprap.org]. Correcting the room-temperature reading (which I think you will find is too high at present) should also correct the disconnected reading. Or you could just adjust the H parameter until you get a reading of -273 with the thermistor disconnected.

There is so much backwash from the fan that when I first assembled my Ormerod, I thought the fan was running the wrong way. A fan inlet duct greatly reduces the backwash and may also make the fan more efficient. You can find the one I use (based on a design by kwikius) here [github.com].

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Mr Crispi,
Just a thought, which fan assembly are you using? If it is the one piece hot end, did you turn the heat sink through 90 degrees and drill another hole in order to mount all of the hot end together.

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appjaws - Core XYUV Duet Ethernet Duex5
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Ormerod 1-converted to laser engraver, Duet wifi
OpenSCAD version 2020.07
slic3r-1.3.0, Simplify3D 4.1.2, Cura-4.4.1

Genius @DC42 - adjusting H to -36 corrected my ambient temperature and now causes a temperature reading of 2000 when thermistor is disconnected and gives the error message - thank you

Thanks also @appjaws1 - indeed I was using the one piece and the heat sink was blocking the ducts - I have reverted to the modified 2 piece so that my heat sink is in the correct orientation to let a decent amount of air to the ducts. I now realise that the blocked ducts was causing the excessive backwash I was seeing.

Now all is good with the world again

Hi MrCrispi, if you are getting 2000C with the thermistor disconnected, your H value is too far away from zero. Try H-35 or H-34 etc. until you get a -273 reading with thermistor disconnected.

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With the new modulated IR sensor, has anyone tried without paper squares under the Kapton? I.e. Just reading through the kapton and glass from the heat spreader?

If shiny aluminium is an issue, how about giving the heat spreader a thin coat of matt white primer spray?

---

Another RS Ormerod Mk1 meets the world

Retired now but I used to make....
CNC Machined Mk1 aluminium bed support plates for the Ormerod
CNC machined X-plates and ribs for Mk1 & Mk2 Ormerods
CNC machined bed support arms for the Mk2 Ormerod.
Dual Hot-End heatsink blocks.

Quote
dc42
Hi MrCrispi, if you are getting 2000C with the thermistor disconnected, your H value is too far away from zero. Try H-35 or H-34 etc. until you get a -273 reading with thermistor disconnected.

Hmmm... if I gradually decrease the value of H, the reported temp with the thermistor disconnected gradually drops away until H-24 which gives a reading of -55 , but H-25 (or even H-24.1) gives 2000 and so does anything lower...therefore can't get to a value which gives -273

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 03/30/2014 04:33PM by MrCrispi.

OK, I see what is going on. The code checks for the "disconnected" value before applying the correction. I'll fix it in the next release. So I suggest you go back to -36 if that gives you the correct temperature. A reading of +2000C will still trigger a temperature error if the thermistor is disconnected, which is the important thing here.

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Disclosure: I design Duet electronics and work on RepRapFirmware, [duet3d.com].