I have some serious problems with the printer.

I've got some problems and hope that you can help me.
No matter how often I do the unevenness compensation, the tool nozzle is still too far away from
the heatbed during a job.

Also it would be better if there was another (fifth) point in the middle to compensate a concave or
convex heatbed.

Another problem is that the nozzle is pushing the material to early so when he is printing a line
there is to much material at the start point. (Image attached)

It doesn't matter if the command G1 has F10 or F200 as attribute, it has no effect on x- and y-axis,
they are always going with a constant speed. Only z-axis is affected by this parameter.

Just an advice for the future: professional printers have a brush to clean the nozzle. It had at least the opportunity such a thing to buy in addition

Hi

Check out the threads on bed compensation...
[forums.reprap.org]

And possibly better...
[forums.reprap.org]

Also, did you calibrate the filament feed accurately, this is vital and could possibly do what your pics show I think.

It will work, but getting there is a bumpy ride

There is a lot of help available here.

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Another RS Ormerod Mk1 meets the world

Retired now but I used to make....
CNC Machined Mk1 aluminium bed support plates for the Ormerod
CNC machined X-plates and ribs for Mk1 & Mk2 Ormerods
CNC machined bed support arms for the Mk2 Ormerod.
Dual Hot-End heatsink blocks.

Please serious answer.
The printer was not a gift, cost me € 700. I need a prints, not a lifetime to climb over the forums.
Have a month to try everything possible and impossible. Naturally filament feed I calibrate accurately.

Addition to the first point.
Too far away means that the system arbitrarily shift starting point in the Z-axis of about 1mm above.

I feel that if you purchased an Ormerod for production purposes out-of-the-box then you will be initially disappointed. The production machines would cost 2-3 times as much as an Ormerod. That being said, I am now getting brilliant prints on mine but it took me a few weeks of testing, adjusting and I am even getting laser-cut replacement upgrade beds cut to assist other forum members rectify a known weak spot in the kit.

I fully accepted this and for me it even adds to the thrill of owning a 3d printer, it's still relatively cutting-edge stuff in reality so I accept some bugs and problems.

If you can find the patience, I am sure you will get what you need but it will not happen out of the box.

---

Another RS Ormerod Mk1 meets the world

Retired now but I used to make....
CNC Machined Mk1 aluminium bed support plates for the Ormerod
CNC machined X-plates and ribs for Mk1 & Mk2 Ormerods
CNC machined bed support arms for the Mk2 Ormerod.
Dual Hot-End heatsink blocks.

Quote
jaro_p
Addition to the first point.
Too far away means that the system arbitrarily shift starting point in the Z-axis of about 1mm above.

That sounds like a z-axis zeroing issue, see the second thread in my first post.

This one point alone - setting zero z position is 99% of the key to getting good prints.

To achieve this the bed must be level to within layer thickness or better so +/- 0.1mm across the surface, here you can see that we are playing with serious precision.

But it can be done.

---

Another RS Ormerod Mk1 meets the world

Retired now but I used to make....
CNC Machined Mk1 aluminium bed support plates for the Ormerod
CNC machined X-plates and ribs for Mk1 & Mk2 Ormerods
CNC machined bed support arms for the Mk2 Ormerod.
Dual Hot-End heatsink blocks.

Firstly, are you perhaps sending your print files via the USB interface? Your prints look similar to mine did before I realised that the compiled Pronterface USB interface is too slow and results in jerky movements. You must copy the G files to SD card and print from that. Just run "circle.g" first from the USB and then from the SD card and see the difference.

Secondly, replace the Duet firmware with DC42's latest. The official release has an acceleration bug that caused the stepper to miss steps occasionally when printing at fast speeds.

Have you set retraction to at least 4mm in Slic3r? The default of 1mm is too small and will produce blobbing and whiskers.

I appreciate that the Ormerod is expensive for many private individuals, but compared to the price of the non-DIY printers that work straight out the box, it is very inexpensive. That price difference is made up by you doing the tweaks and adjustments that are carried out by paid factory employees on the expensive units, and finding workarounds & fixes for bugs in the open source firmware and the parts supplied - part of the extra price of the expensive units pay for software test and QA departments.

Unlike most cheaper goods however, if you persevere you will end up with a machine that prints just as well or better than machines that cost 5 times more - it just takes more time and effort to get there. But as a result of that time and effort, you end up with a machine that you understand a lot better and so will be able to service, repair and modify it yourself, and you will have probably customised it to some extent so it will suit your purposes better than an "out the box" machine in the long run.

Dave
(#106)

Quote
dmould
Firstly, are you perhaps sending your print files via the USB interface? Your prints look similar to mine did before I realised that the compiled Pronterface USB interface is too slow and results in jerky movements. You must copy the G files to SD card and print from that. Just run "circle.g" first from the USB and then from the SD card and see the difference.(#106)

Yes, I forgot that, it's vital to use the SD card on the standard firmware.
Also note that circle.g does NOT print anything, it just runs the head round in a circle.

Quote
dmould
Secondly, replace the Duet firmware with DC42's latest. The official release has an acceleration bug that caused the stepper to miss steps occasionally when printing at fast speeds.(#106)

I was dubious of mentioning that to a newbie, I am still running plain vanilla firmware and it can work ok, I will be upgrading soon but I didn't do it straight away as I felt it added more variables to the mix at an already busy time.

Quote
dmould
Have you set retraction to at least 4mm in Slic3r? The default of 1mm is too small and will produce blobbing and whiskers.
(#106)

This really helps a lot too.

---

Another RS Ormerod Mk1 meets the world

Retired now but I used to make....
CNC Machined Mk1 aluminium bed support plates for the Ormerod
CNC machined X-plates and ribs for Mk1 & Mk2 Ormerods
CNC machined bed support arms for the Mk2 Ormerod.
Dual Hot-End heatsink blocks.

Hi Jaro, I mechanicaly level my bed, and turn the compensation off.
I find it allot better, and now I've added a stronger sub bed to level the Heated Bed from, it's quick and easy, and only needs adjusting if you do
alterations to the machine.

As far as cleaning the nozzle is concerned I tried a few things, but the thing that works best and gives that AS NEW look to the nozzle is a clean cheap Leather Gardening Glove. Heat up the nozzle to normal working temp. Put the glove on, and gently rub the nozzle with one of the fingers.
It looks like new again afterwards.

---

Please send me a PM if you have suggestions, or problems with Big Blue 360.
I won't see comments in threads, as I move around to much.
Working Link to Big Blue 360 Complete

Hey, thanks for the tip to run programs from the SD - card. This considerably improved prints.
Similarly, the reverse flow of 4mm Slic3r helped.
What I still can not resolve the position of the zeros in the Z - axis.
Deal with it while stopping the program at the beginning of the first layer, the zero adjustment
in the middle of the heat bed, then G92 Z0. Finally starting the program again.

Quote
jaro_p
Hey, thanks for the tip to run programs from the SD - card. This considerably improved prints.
Similarly, the reverse flow of 4mm Slic3r helped.
What I still can not resolve the position of the zeros in the Z - axis.
Deal with it while stopping the program at the beginning of the first layer, the zero adjustment
in the middle of the heat bed, then G92 Z0. Finally starting the program again.

The unmodified automatic Z zeroing and bed compensation does not work reliably. I never use it. Do the Z height zeroing and bed compensation by hand before every print and you will not have problems with the first layer. Always zero the Z height first before applying the bed compensation parameters. Use the paper method to quickly find the zero point (lower the head in 0.1mm increments until a sheet of copier paper is just gripped by the extruder - you should feel the fan vibration through the paper - make that the Z=0 point). Wait for the bed to reach its operating temperature before doing any of those Z axis settings. Make sure the nozzle is clean (no plastic blobs) before zeroing.

Dave
(#106)