Hello All, I'm a MendelMax 1.5 user, planning to print off the parts and build a 0.4.9 SmartRap.

First and foremost, what layer height do you recommend? I'm thinking 0.4mm? I'm using PLA.

I've gone over the BOM and had a look at the instructions, but have a few questions about sourcing the components and building:

1. I'm assuming the design I'm printing allows for the newer auto-levelling (ie no servo)? Bed levelling was/is the biggest problem I've had with my MM1.5.
2. I'm planning on using a JHead. I've never used a Bowden extruder before. (not really a question)
3. I want to use 3mm filament since that's what my current printer uses. What changes will I need to make to do this? The Bowden Tube, what else?
4. Sourcing the smooth rods in Australia might be difficult for me. Why are the X and Y 295mm? Would it matter if they were 300mm? It would only mean longer pulleys right?
5. I'm planning on using GT2 Gears and Pulleys
6. Also planning on using MK7 Drive Gear.
7. I'm going to assume any 5 amp 12V power supply is okay? What if I decide I want a heated bed later, what should I aim for?
8. I'm going to source a lot of this stuff from Aliexpress. Any suggestions for otherwise?
9. I see the bowden head on the instruction pictures have a rather large aluminium cooling block. Will I need this for JHead? It's not in the BOM.
10. There appears to be a few things in the pictures that aren't in the BOM. Such as the little (rubber?) rings on the glass bed for attaching to the printer, and the rainbow ribbon cable (which is easy to get I suppose).

All in all a great looking printer, I love the simplicity of the design, and can't wait to get started.

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cosmicr
Hello All, I'm a MendelMax 1.5 user, planning to print off the parts and build a 0.4.9 SmartRap.

First and foremost, what layer height do you recommend? I'm thinking 0.4mm? I'm using PLA.

I print at 0.2 with a 0.4 nozzle, but whatever is working best for your printer, use that.

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I've gone over the BOM and had a look at the instructions, but have a few questions about sourcing the components and building:

1. I'm assuming the design I'm printing allows for the newer auto-levelling (ie no servo)? Bed levelling was/is the biggest problem I've had with my MM1.5.

Yes. I'll take it you will be using the Jhead Light from Ohio Plastics? That's the one the Jhead mount is designed for. they do work quite well.

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2. I'm planning on using a JHead. I've never used a Bowden extruder before. (not really a question)
3. I want to use 3mm filament since that's what my current printer uses. What changes will I need to make to do this? The Bowden Tube, what else?

Ooh.. a bit more than that if your wanting to change to 3mm filament. Not just the Bowden tube, but the extruder bracket, Jhead, Jhead arm and retainer. You'll need to remodel those printed parts to accommodate the larger sizes.

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4. Sourcing the smooth rods in Australia might be difficult for me. Why are the X and Y 295mm? Would it matter if they were 300mm? It would only mean longer pulleys right?
5. I'm planning on using GT2 Gears and Pulleys

No it won't matter if their 295 or 300 mm. not longer pulleys, belts and were only talking 5 mm here, If your buying your timing belt by the meter, it will make no difference. IMO, GT2 is the way to go.

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6. Also planning on using MK7 Drive Gear.
7. I'm going to assume any 5 amp 12V power supply is okay? What if I decide I want a heated bed later, what should I aim for?
8. I'm going to source a lot of this stuff from Aliexpress. Any suggestions for otherwise?
9. I see the bowden head on the instruction pictures have a rather large aluminium cooling block. Will I need this for JHead? It's not in the BOM.

For 6. OK For 7. Yes, you should go for a larger PSU if your going to want a heated bed. Maybe ~120w. For 7. No clue for your part of the world, Reg should be able to help you out there, he's in your neck of the woods. For 9. That Pic has the Huxley hotend shown. Not needed for the Jhead, but a fan and shroud will help.

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10. There appears to be a few things in the pictures that aren't in the BOM. Such as the little (rubber?) rings on the glass bed for attaching to the printer, and the rainbow ribbon cable (which is easy to get I suppose).

All in all a great looking printer, I love the simplicity of the design, and can't wait to get started.

The things you see in the pics are all part of the Kit. You can do whatever if your building your own DIY... Look over some of the other builds here and see what others have come up with and done for ideas.

Best of luck to you and we'll be waiting to see your new build. Remember, take pictures, we all like pictures!

Mark

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From FreeCAD To The Real World- Demo video using FreeCAD and featuring the Smartrap 3D Printer

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cosmicr
Hello All, I'm a MendelMax 1.5 user, planning to print off the parts and build a 0.4.9 SmartRap.

First and foremost, what layer height do you recommend? I'm thinking 0.4mm? I'm using PLA.

I've gone over the BOM and had a look at the instructions, but have a few questions about sourcing the components and building:

1. I'm assuming the design I'm printing allows for the newer auto-levelling (ie no servo)? Bed levelling was/is the biggest problem I've had with my MM1.5.
2. I'm planning on using a JHead. I've never used a Bowden extruder before. (not really a question)
3. I want to use 3mm filament since that's what my current printer uses. What changes will I need to make to do this? The Bowden Tube, what else?
4. Sourcing the smooth rods in Australia might be difficult for me. Why are the X and Y 295mm? Would it matter if they were 300mm? It would only mean longer pulleys right?
5. I'm planning on using GT2 Gears and Pulleys
6. Also planning on using MK7 Drive Gear.
7. I'm going to assume any 5 amp 12V power supply is okay? What if I decide I want a heated bed later, what should I aim for?
8. I'm going to source a lot of this stuff from Aliexpress. Any suggestions for otherwise?
9. I see the bowden head on the instruction pictures have a rather large aluminium cooling block. Will I need this for JHead? It's not in the BOM.
10. There appears to be a few things in the pictures that aren't in the BOM. Such as the little (rubber?) rings on the glass bed for attaching to the printer, and the rainbow ribbon cable (which is easy to get I suppose).

All in all a great looking printer, I love the simplicity of the design, and can't wait to get started.

I am in South Australia and may be able to help you a bit more than overseas people, although their advise is usually pretty good too.
I have designed and built a few different models of the SmartRap, each has been quite different from the original models.

Make the prints at 0.3mm or less. I usually use 0.24mm, but 0.3mm will print faster. Make the infill at least 35%.

I use longer rods for each axis, simply because I wanted to print on a bigger work area, so there is no reason why you can't do that same.

3mm filament is not as easy to use as 1.75mm with a Bowden, but it still can be used.
If using PLA, get a better hotend, a few dollars more really pays off in saved prints, lost time and frustration.

I have use GT2 gears and pulleys on all my SmatrRaps except the first one, the GT2 works well.
The original extruder being direct drive has some limitations, best to go with a geared extruder.

On all my machines, and I have about 30 of them, all use a low amperage power supply (I actually use 10A because the price is about the same as a 6A) and I use a mains powered heated bed and a solidstate relay that is controlled by the Arduino bed heater control. The solidstate relay switched the power for the mains. Never had a problem or any shortage of power.

All my heated beds use a silicone rubber donut in each corner instead of springs to mount the aluminium bed to the bed platform. These I make myself very easily as I haven't been able to find them to buy. I mould them is a simple wooden mould and pour in a 2 part mix of silicone rubber. Could do it easier for just a few by casting a rubber shape and punching out some circles of rubber with a wad punch. The advantage of the silicone rubber over the springs is that the bed stays firm and still allows some adjustment if needed. Auto-bed-leveling actually removes the need for this a lot too.

AliExpress is good. be prepared for a bit of a wait though, maybe 3-5 weeks.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/02/2014 12:45AM by regpye.

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[regpye.com.au]
"Experience is the mother of all knowledge." --Leonardo da Vinci

Thanks for the replies guys. I've started ordering parts. I've changed my mind on JHead and am thinking the E3D head... Will see when I get to it. Will stick with 1.75mm unfortunately, since it might be too much trouble to go to 3mm.

I've been attempting to print off the parts on my Mendelmax 1.5, and am having a really hard time. The build plate is the biggest thing I've ever tried. I'm using white standard PLA from 3dprintergear.com.au and it's not playing nice But that's a problem for someone else. Is there a BOM for the printed parts so that I might do each one individually? I'm printing at 0.3mm, using a raft, because my bed isn't very level.

Reg I'll keep in mind that you're in Aus. I'm from Melbourne. I'm curious, where do you source most of your parts from? Mainly I'm struggling to find hardware (ie rods, lead screws, etc). Electronics is fairly easy, although I'm concerned about quality.

Thanks again, and as soon as I have them I'll post photos.

edit: also if anyone's interested, here's my own BOM I've been keeping: BOM Link

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/07/2014 12:03AM by cosmicr.

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cosmicr
Thanks for the replies guys. I've started ordering parts. I've changed my mind on JHead and am thinking the E3D head... Will see when I get to it. Will stick with 1.75mm unfortunately, since it might be too much trouble to go to 3mm.

I've been attempting to print off the parts on my Mendelmax 1.5, and am having a really hard time. The build plate is the biggest thing I've ever tried. I'm using white standard PLA from 3dprintergear.com.au and it's not playing nice But that's a problem for someone else. Is there a BOM for the printed parts so that I might do each one individually? I'm printing at 0.3mm, using a raft, because my bed isn't very level.

Reg I'll keep in mind that you're in Aus. I'm from Melbourne. I'm curious, where do you source most of your parts from? Mainly I'm struggling to find hardware (ie rods, lead screws, etc). Electronics is fairly easy, although I'm concerned about quality.

Thanks again, and as soon as I have them I'll post photos.

edit: also if anyone's interested, here's my own BOM I've been keeping: BOM Link

You can get the rods in stainless steel from Surman Metals in South Australia.
Surman Metals 5 Greenfields Dr, Green Fields SA 5107, Australia +61 8 8259 9444

I have millions of screws in M3 sizes with washers and nuts too. and several other parts that I am sure you will need.
Anything else you might need give me an email and I will see if I can help you out.
Bilby CNC are closer to you, but their prices are pretty high.

My Genie hotend is designed mainly for PLA but will print many other filaments too. It has an E3D fitting and several other fittings as well, including Bowden.

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[regpye.com.au]
"Experience is the mother of all knowledge." --Leonardo da Vinci