E3DV6 and the Prusa i3, how did you get it installed? March 06, 2015 07:38PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 134 |
Re: E3DV6 and the Prusa i3, how did you get it installed? March 07, 2015 12:02AM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 98 |
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Gannicus
Anyone have any links for the printable files to get this thing installed?
I plan on going with a Wades, but I haven't found anything good, and want to know how everyone did it here.
Pics would be a bonus. Or website with a tutorial, video...something.
I have the E3DV6 sitting on my kitchen table, and it's KILLING me to not be able to install it yet.
Re: E3DV6 and the Prusa i3, how did you get it installed? March 07, 2015 04:48AM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 1,011 |
Re: E3DV6 and the Prusa i3, how did you get it installed? March 07, 2015 09:44AM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 134 |
Re: E3DV6 and the Prusa i3, how did you get it installed? March 07, 2015 10:50AM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 1,011 |
Re: E3DV6 and the Prusa i3, how did you get it installed? March 07, 2015 11:49AM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 98 |
Re: E3DV6 and the Prusa i3, how did you get it installed? March 07, 2015 11:49AM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 134 |
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Zavashier
It's what I use actualy. Fishbone is pretty if you like it, but won't change your print quality. I dunno if you can install them on Skarab's extruder. Start buy printing the extruder's body, then test your gears. If you have to print new ones it's no big deal.
Re: E3DV6 and the Prusa i3, how did you get it installed? March 07, 2015 12:14PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 1,011 |
Re: E3DV6 and the Prusa i3, how did you get it installed? March 07, 2015 12:20PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 98 |
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Zavashier
Hobbed Bolt
2pcs M3 THC (Din 912) 50mm - for spring load idler
3pcs M3 THC (Din 912) 30mm - for hotend mount and idler
3pcs M3 THC (Din 912) 12mm - for motor mount
1pc M3 THC (Din 912) 10mm - for hotend fan mount
5pcs M3 nut (Din 934) - for idler, small gear, hotend and hotend fan
2pcs M8 nut (Din 934) - for hobbed bolt
1pcs M3 Hex socket (DIN 913) 6mm - for small gear
1pc M8x20mm shaft - for idler's 608 bearing
3pcs 608 bearings - for hobbed bolt and idler
2pcs 6*6mm springs - for spring load idler
Note, still needs screws to mount extruder on your x carriage plate. (size depends of your plate). The side fan mount attach to the two lower screws which needs to be longer if you use side fans.
Re: E3DV6 and the Prusa i3, how did you get it installed? March 07, 2015 12:26PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 134 |
Quote
Zavashier
Hobbed Bolt
2pcs M3 THC (Din 912) 50mm - for spring load idler
3pcs M3 THC (Din 912) 30mm - for hotend mount and idler
3pcs M3 THC (Din 912) 12mm - for motor mount
1pc M3 THC (Din 912) 10mm - for hotend fan mount
5pcs M3 nut (Din 934) - for idler, small gear, hotend and hotend fan
2pcs M8 nut (Din 934) - for hobbed bolt
1pcs M3 Hex socket (DIN 913) 6mm - for small gear
1pc M8x20mm shaft - for idler's 608 bearing
3pcs 608 bearings - for hobbed bolt and idler
2pcs 6*6mm springs - for spring load idler
Note, still needs screws to mount extruder on your x carriage plate. (size depends of your plate). The side fan mount attach to the two lower screws which needs to be longer if you use side fans.
Re: E3DV6 and the Prusa i3, how did you get it installed? March 07, 2015 02:31PM |
Registered: 10 years ago Posts: 30 |
Re: E3DV6 and the Prusa i3, how did you get it installed? March 09, 2015 06:51PM |
Registered: 10 years ago Posts: 581 |
Re: E3DV6 and the Prusa i3, how did you get it installed? March 09, 2015 07:21PM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 98 |
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3dkarma
If you're interested, I've modified the Wade's to take an E3D v6 and support flexible filament. The trick is to get a bowden tube (for 1.75mm filament) from up near the hobbed bolt all the way down through the E3D V6. You can download the build manual and STL files from [www.3dkarma.com].
Re: E3DV6 and the Prusa i3, how did you get it installed? March 10, 2015 03:36AM |
Registered: 9 years ago Posts: 1,011 |
I bought the hobbed bolt of the link in the BOM list. I've got a metalworking lathe and did some trys. Without a lathe, it seems to me very difficult to get good results. What people does not often knows, is that you need to be very precise on the hobbed area's diameter (within 0.1mm). Both setup and operation takes time. Except if you want to produce parts by numbers, it does not worth the time and the money. Appreciate a perfect life time hobbed bolt cost $5 or less, it's not expensive for 8.8 or 12.8 good quality steel. You don't want to make one from a cheap home depot's bolt, it'll be a weak unclean hob with possible tooth comming out, ready to clogg definitely any nozzle. Broke a tap during this process and it will cost you much more ! You'd rather buy one.Quote
Gannicus
Did you make your hobbed bolt or buy it? If so which one, or what guide did you use?