Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread)

Quote
srcga
Hi kn4ud, rippa,

You guys mind sharing some slic3r tips on PETG? I see you mention lift.. did not try that, going to do it myself.

I am having stringy hell right now

Sonny I have auto-level in place now via servo.. love it.. let me know what I can do to help.
Don't even bother trying to get the 5v bus on the stock folger to power the servo as-is. You'll need to wire up a separate 5V power supply to the ramps board for it.

I haven't used slic3r in a while, but when I moved to a bowden feed and had stringy prints, a retraction of 3mm fixed it for me.

---

Need help? Visit the Folgertech Wikia Page

The latest Marlin firmware with Folgertech Prusa i3 settings merged in, get it here

And check out my designs on Thingiverse, and follow me if you like what you see!

Does anyone have an idea what is going on with my lcd controller? I am using the reprap smart controller. I think someone had a similar problem earlier in this thread, but I cannot find the post.

Quote
srcga
Hi kn4ud, rippa,

You guys mind sharing some slic3r tips on PETG? I see you mention lift.. did not try that, going to do it myself.

I am having stringy hell right now

Sonny I have auto-level in place now via servo.. love it.. let me know what I can do to help.
Don't even bother trying to get the 5v bus on the stock folger to power the servo as-is. You'll need to wire up a separate 5V power supply to the ramps board for it.

srcga...Thanks for the offer to help...looks like I'm going to need it!?!? rippa has helped a lot and has me on the correct path but I still think I'm doing something wrong. Once I made the changes to his marlin file I am getting errors in Arduino while trying to upload the sketch!?!? I'll take another look at my current conf and try adjusting rippa's again...I'm sure I moved/merged something I shouldn't have...I'll post details of what I've tried, maybe someone will see the error of my ways ;-)

BTW: I am running the inductive pickup on my printer...

Sonny

Hey guys just a quick question...

What is the current limit for the stepper motors used by FolgerTech on the printer?

The only details stamped on the steepers it's "1.8 degree 12 V 2.6kg/cm 36oz/in", a fast google search returned some motors on same range of specs with current rating of 1.2 A and 2.5 A for the 4.8kg/cm steeper (Y axis), if that number is correct then the math for the A4988 drivers should be:
1.2A/0.7=1.714 A
Vref = 1.714/2.5 --> 0.685 V

2.5A/0.7=3.571
Vref = 3.714/2.5 --> 1.485 V

I think that I got it right but the numbers look too big, I remember reading somewhere that they were on the mark of something like 0.350 V to 0.400 V, so I'm guessing that the current rating specs that I found are for different motors...

Thanks

---

Mr.Fus
<------------------------------------------------->
Green M3D (Running v.1.3.6.3Beta)
FolgerTech Prusa i3 (2020 Frame)
<------------------------------------------------>

Quote
sonnylowe

Quote
srcga
Hi kn4ud, rippa,

You guys mind sharing some slic3r tips on PETG? I see you mention lift.. did not try that, going to do it myself.

I am having stringy hell right now

Sonny I have auto-level in place now via servo.. love it.. let me know what I can do to help.
Don't even bother trying to get the 5v bus on the stock folger to power the servo as-is. You'll need to wire up a separate 5V power supply to the ramps board for it.

srcga...Thanks for the offer to help...looks like I'm going to need it!?!? rippa has helped a lot and has me on the correct path but I still think I'm doing something wrong. Once I made the changes to his marlin file I am getting errors in Arduino while trying to upload the sketch!?!? I'll take another look at my current conf and try adjusting rippa's again...I'm sure I moved/merged something I shouldn't have...I'll post details of what I've tried, maybe someone will see the error of my ways ;-)

BTW: I am running the inductive pickup on my printer...

Sonny

What error are you getting? Is it possible you forgot to click "disconnect" in your host? I forget to do that all the time and get errors.

---

Need help? Visit the Folgertech Wikia Page

The latest Marlin firmware with Folgertech Prusa i3 settings merged in, get it here

And check out my designs on Thingiverse, and follow me if you like what you see!

Quote
therippa

Quote
sonnylowe

Quote
srcga
Hi kn4ud, rippa,

You guys mind sharing some slic3r tips on PETG? I see you mention lift.. did not try that, going to do it myself.

I am having stringy hell right now

Sonny I have auto-level in place now via servo.. love it.. let me know what I can do to help.
Don't even bother trying to get the 5v bus on the stock folger to power the servo as-is. You'll need to wire up a separate 5V power supply to the ramps board for it.

srcga...Thanks for the offer to help...looks like I'm going to need it!?!? rippa has helped a lot and has me on the correct path but I still think I'm doing something wrong. Once I made the changes to his marlin file I am getting errors in Arduino while trying to upload the sketch!?!? I'll take another look at my current conf and try adjusting rippa's again...I'm sure I moved/merged something I shouldn't have...I'll post details of what I've tried, maybe someone will see the error of my ways ;-)

BTW: I am running the inductive pickup on my printer...

Sonny

What error are you getting? Is it possible you forgot to click "disconnect" in your host? I forget to do that all the time and get errors.

host is not running, I'm getting this error...

Simple Version:

Arduino: 1.6.5 (Windows 7), Board: "Arduino Mega ADK"

Build options changed, rebuilding all

In file included from Marlin.h:22:0,
from cardreader.cpp:1:
Configuration.h:769: error: #endif without #if
#endif //__CONFIGURATION_H
^
#endif without #if

This report would have more information with
"Show verbose output during compilation"
enabled in File > Preferences.


Detailed version (Show Verbose)

Arduino: 1.6.5 (Windows 7), Board: "Arduino Mega ADK"

Build options changed, rebuilding all

Using library LiquidCrystal in folder: C:\Program Files\Arduino\libraries\LiquidCrystal

Using library SPI in folder: C:\Program Files\Arduino\hardware\arduino\avr\libraries\SPI



C:\Program Files\Arduino\hardware\tools\avr/bin/avr-g++ -c -g -Os -w -fno-exceptions -ffunction-sections -fdata-sections -fno-threadsafe-statics -MMD -mmcu=atmega2560 -DF_CPU=16000000L -DARDUINO=10605 -DARDUINO_AVR_ADK -DARDUINO_ARCH_AVR -IC:\Program Files\Arduino\hardware\arduino\avr\cores\arduino -IC:\Program Files\Arduino\hardware\arduino\avr\variants\mega -IC:\Program Files\Arduino\libraries\LiquidCrystal\src -IC:\Program Files\Arduino\hardware\arduino\avr\libraries\SPI C:\Users\Sonny\AppData\Local\Temp\build2430719164318251391.tmp\cardreader.cpp -o C:\Users\Sonny\AppData\Local\Temp\build2430719164318251391.tmp\cardreader.cpp.o

In file included from C:\Users\Sonny\AppData\Local\Temp\build2430719164318251391.tmp\Marlin.h:22:0,
from C:\Users\Sonny\AppData\Local\Temp\build2430719164318251391.tmp\cardreader.cpp:1:
C:\Users\Sonny\AppData\Local\Temp\build2430719164318251391.tmp\Configuration.h:769:2: error: #endif without #if
#endif //__CONFIGURATION_H
^
Error compiling.

I just forked Marlin in GITHUB, uploaded my edited version of your conf-h file in case that might help!?!?

Thanks again for all the help :-)

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/16/2015 05:45AM by sonnylowe.

Quote
woodknack

Quote
Mopar99

Quote
tjnamtiw

Quote
Mopar99

Ok, so I ran through this several times and settle on 96.8. I decided to try a 20 mm square cube and the attached photo is the result of the print. It's close to 20 mm square, if I can smooth out the print. First photo should be top and sides, second is bottom and sides.

That's absolutely horrible looking! Your print should look like this >
[attachment 64066 test_cube.jpg]

Hopefully, someone with more experience than I can pinpoint what's going on. To me, it looks like you've maladjusted something or many things in your slicer program. Or your layer thicknesses are 3.0 instead of 0.3? Or you have never adjusted your nozzle to bed clearance to 0.1mm?

When you were testing your extruder calibration, did you see large changes in how much it fed each time you tested the 100 mm? Maybe it's not feeding correctly or your voltage to the stepper motor is wrong. Clearly something is majorly wrong.

I'm starting to think I missed some steps somewhere. Anyway I played with it last night and attached it some photo of the result. left to right: slack in the belts, turn up with estep and adjust temp, printer clog, played wit estep and temp again. Now I got the firmware from from thingiverse so is there anything special I show be aware of with it? Reason being is I had to turn up the estep to 165 to get the last cube in the photos.

I'm going to jump in and say "slow down" . Take one step at a time. The first thing I would do if I were you would be to back up. How tight are your belts? Make sure the pulleys are tight on the stepper motor shaft or it will skip and you will lose steps. Then after you think that is ok, take a digital caliper and check your axis's. And recheck them. Make changes in your firmware like you did on the extruder. Get them as close as possible. Then try a simple 20x20 cube.

I understand the "slow down" but i'm only working on the extruder to get it functioning right. printing cubes is a way to see how the extruder is preforming for prints. By the way, I cut the cubes down to 10 mm as to not waste as much material and to save time since i'm get about 2 hrs a night to tinker on the printer. I'm just trying to figure out if i missed something since my estep is at 165 and others seem to be around 90-100. The belts just needed those clothes pin spring installed, i was trying not to install them as of yet.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/16/2015 05:15AM by Mopar99.

Quote
sonnylowe
In file included from C:\Users\Sonny\AppData\Local\Temp\build2430719164318251391.tmp\Marlin.h:22:0,
from C:\Users\Sonny\AppData\Local\Temp\build2430719164318251391.tmp\cardreader.cpp:1:
C:\Users\Sonny\AppData\Local\Temp\build2430719164318251391.tmp\Configuration.h:769:2: error: #endif without #if
#endif //__CONFIGURATION_H
^
Error compiling.[/i][/b]

I just forked Marlin in GITHUB, uploaded my edited version of your conf-h file in case that might help!?!?

Thanks again for all the help :-)

So what it is telling you is that you have an open if without an #endif.

Kind of like having open parenthesis or quotes in code without closing them. For every IF there has to be an ENDIF.


If you just took therippa's config.h, get a text editor that lets you compare line by line. Maybe it will stand out then.
Mine has servo support so probably doesn't help you as much

Quote
srcga

Quote
sonnylowe
In file included from C:\Users\Sonny\AppData\Local\Temp\build2430719164318251391.tmp\Marlin.h:22:0,
from C:\Users\Sonny\AppData\Local\Temp\build2430719164318251391.tmp\cardreader.cpp:1:
C:\Users\Sonny\AppData\Local\Temp\build2430719164318251391.tmp\Configuration.h:769:2: error: #endif without #if
#endif //__CONFIGURATION_H
^
Error compiling.[/i][/b]

I just forked Marlin in GITHUB, uploaded my edited version of your conf-h file in case that might help!?!?

Thanks again for all the help :-)

So what it is telling you is that you have an open if without an #endif.

Kind of like having open parenthesis or quotes in code without closing them. For every IF there has to be an ENDIF.


If you just took therippa's config.h, get a text editor that lets you compare line by line. Maybe it will stand out then.
Mine has servo support so probably doesn't help you as much

Thanks for explaining that, makes since now...I downloaded Beyond Compare so I should be able to find it.

Okay, did the comparison between the current rippa conf-h file and my edited version of his file. In editing the LCD display I did inadvertently delete an #endif :-o I'm at work now but I'll try the upload again tonight when I get home and see what happens, I have a feeling this will get me past this step...

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/16/2015 10:22AM by sonnylowe.

Hey everyone. Noob here. Printer comes in today!!!

Anyways...

I was wondering if anyone would give me some pointers on building this.

I'm in the #folgertech IRC channel on freenode if anyone can help. Seems pretty dead tho =\

This is what I have from my research.
I have no ideas what i'm doing. Still learning the terms.

1. Follow the guild / [moosteria.blogspot.com]
2. X end stop left side is better than right
3. Use marlin instead of their software. Can I just use [github.com] ?

Upgrades:

Should I get my dad to print these first before I build it?

Top filament holder:
[www.thingiverse.com]

Fan mount for Ramps board
[www.thingiverse.com]

Power supply switch
[www.thingiverse.com]

Corner bracket
[www.thingiverse.com]


Endstop for X
[www.thingiverse.com]

X carriage
[www.thingiverse.com]
Do I need this also? [www.thingiverse.com]

X motor mount
[www.thingiverse.com]


Z Motor Stand-off
[www.thingiverse.com]

Z-Axis backlash
[www.thingiverse.com]

Z thumb adjust
[www.thingiverse.com]


Y belt
[www.thingiverse.com]

Y end stop
[www.thingiverse.com]

Y cable chain
[www.thingiverse.com]

Quote
Mopar99

Quote
woodknack

Quote
Mopar99

Quote
tjnamtiw

Quote
Mopar99

Ok, so I ran through this several times and settle on 96.8. I decided to try a 20 mm square cube and the attached photo is the result of the print. It's close to 20 mm square, if I can smooth out the print. First photo should be top and sides, second is bottom and sides.

That's absolutely horrible looking! Your print should look like this >
[attachment 64066 test_cube.jpg]

Hopefully, someone with more experience than I can pinpoint what's going on. To me, it looks like you've maladjusted something or many things in your slicer program. Or your layer thicknesses are 3.0 instead of 0.3? Or you have never adjusted your nozzle to bed clearance to 0.1mm?

When you were testing your extruder calibration, did you see large changes in how much it fed each time you tested the 100 mm? Maybe it's not feeding correctly or your voltage to the stepper motor is wrong. Clearly something is majorly wrong.

I'm starting to think I missed some steps somewhere. Anyway I played with it last night and attached it some photo of the result. left to right: slack in the belts, turn up with estep and adjust temp, printer clog, played wit estep and temp again. Now I got the firmware from from thingiverse so is there anything special I show be aware of with it? Reason being is I had to turn up the estep to 165 to get the last cube in the photos.

I'm going to jump in and say "slow down" . Take one step at a time. The first thing I would do if I were you would be to back up. How tight are your belts? Make sure the pulleys are tight on the stepper motor shaft or it will skip and you will lose steps. Then after you think that is ok, take a digital caliper and check your axis's. And recheck them. Make changes in your firmware like you did on the extruder. Get them as close as possible. Then try a simple 20x20 cube.

I understand the "slow down" but i'm only working on the extruder to get it functioning right. printing cubes is a way to see how the extruder is preforming for prints. By the way, I cut the cubes down to 10 mm as to not waste as much material and to save time since i'm get about 2 hrs a night to tinker on the printer. I'm just trying to figure out if i missed something since my estep is at 165 and others seem to be around 90-100. The belts just needed those clothes pin spring installed, i was trying not to install them as of yet.

If your only calibrating your extruder and haven't done anything else then I would NOT be doing any prints yet. And I thought we already got you close with your extruder around 102. something if I remember right. So yes 165 sounds way off. Another thing, why even try to print if your belts are not tight? I think you are compounding your problem by having more then one thing off. Thats why I said take a step back. Do these things first. Make sure your pulleys are tight on the shaft. Re tighten all your allen screws on the pulleys. Then tighten all your belts. Do this before you do anything else. Then I would calibrate your X,Y and Z axis with a digital caliber and make changes in your firmware till you get it as close as you can. Then I'd mess with adjusting the extruder.

Just curious what you are running for filament?
I have not run any ABS so I can not help you on bed and extruder heat or setup for that. But if your running PLA I can probably get in the ball park. Then you would have to tweak for your machine. BUT I feel you are not even ready for that yet.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/16/2015 10:47AM by woodknack.

Quote
woodknack

Quote
Mopar99

Quote
woodknack

Quote
Mopar99

Quote
tjnamtiw

Quote
Mopar99

Ok, so I ran through this several times and settle on 96.8. I decided to try a 20 mm square cube and the attached photo is the result of the print. It's close to 20 mm square, if I can smooth out the print. First photo should be top and sides, second is bottom and sides.

That's absolutely horrible looking! Your print should look like this >
[attachment 64066 test_cube.jpg]

Hopefully, someone with more experience than I can pinpoint what's going on. To me, it looks like you've maladjusted something or many things in your slicer program. Or your layer thicknesses are 3.0 instead of 0.3? Or you have never adjusted your nozzle to bed clearance to 0.1mm?

When you were testing your extruder calibration, did you see large changes in how much it fed each time you tested the 100 mm? Maybe it's not feeding correctly or your voltage to the stepper motor is wrong. Clearly something is majorly wrong.

I'm starting to think I missed some steps somewhere. Anyway I played with it last night and attached it some photo of the result. left to right: slack in the belts, turn up with estep and adjust temp, printer clog, played wit estep and temp again. Now I got the firmware from from thingiverse so is there anything special I show be aware of with it? Reason being is I had to turn up the estep to 165 to get the last cube in the photos.

I'm going to jump in and say "slow down" . Take one step at a time. The first thing I would do if I were you would be to back up. How tight are your belts? Make sure the pulleys are tight on the stepper motor shaft or it will skip and you will lose steps. Then after you think that is ok, take a digital caliper and check your axis's. And recheck them. Make changes in your firmware like you did on the extruder. Get them as close as possible. Then try a simple 20x20 cube.

I understand the "slow down" but i'm only working on the extruder to get it functioning right. printing cubes is a way to see how the extruder is preforming for prints. By the way, I cut the cubes down to 10 mm as to not waste as much material and to save time since i'm get about 2 hrs a night to tinker on the printer. I'm just trying to figure out if i missed something since my estep is at 165 and others seem to be around 90-100. The belts just needed those clothes pin spring installed, i was trying not to install them as of yet.

If your only calibrating your extruder and haven't done anything else then I would NOT be doing any prints yet. And I thought we already got you close with your extruder around 102. something if I remember right. So yes 165 sounds way off. Another thing, why even try to print if your belts are not tight? I think you are compounding your problem by having more then one thing off. Thats why I said take a step back. Do these things first. Make sure your pulleys are tight on the shaft. Re tighten all your allen screws on the pulleys. Then tighten all your belts. Do this before you do anything else. Then I would calibrate your X,Y and Z axis with a digital caliber and make changes in your firmware till you get it as close as you can. Then I'd mess with adjusting the extruder.

Just curious what you are running for filament?
I have not run any ABS so I can not help you on bed and extruder heat or setup for that. But if your running PLA I can probably get in the ball park. Then you would have to tweak for your machine. BUT I feel you are not even ready for that yet.

Also I would be making these changes in your firmware (on your computer in Arduino interface) and uploading them to your mega card. I wouldn't do it on your LCD. That is if you you have an LCD. Save the LCD learning and playing with after you get the machine setup right.

Quote
woodknack

Quote
woodknack

Quote
Mopar99

Quote
woodknack

Quote
Mopar99

Quote
tjnamtiw

Quote
Mopar99

Ok, so I ran through this several times and settle on 96.8. I decided to try a 20 mm square cube and the attached photo is the result of the print. It's close to 20 mm square, if I can smooth out the print. First photo should be top and sides, second is bottom and sides.

That's absolutely horrible looking! Your print should look like this >
[attachment 64066 test_cube.jpg]

Hopefully, someone with more experience than I can pinpoint what's going on. To me, it looks like you've maladjusted something or many things in your slicer program. Or your layer thicknesses are 3.0 instead of 0.3? Or you have never adjusted your nozzle to bed clearance to 0.1mm?

When you were testing your extruder calibration, did you see large changes in how much it fed each time you tested the 100 mm? Maybe it's not feeding correctly or your voltage to the stepper motor is wrong. Clearly something is majorly wrong.

I'm starting to think I missed some steps somewhere. Anyway I played with it last night and attached it some photo of the result. left to right: slack in the belts, turn up with estep and adjust temp, printer clog, played wit estep and temp again. Now I got the firmware from from thingiverse so is there anything special I show be aware of with it? Reason being is I had to turn up the estep to 165 to get the last cube in the photos.

I'm going to jump in and say "slow down" . Take one step at a time. The first thing I would do if I were you would be to back up. How tight are your belts? Make sure the pulleys are tight on the stepper motor shaft or it will skip and you will lose steps. Then after you think that is ok, take a digital caliper and check your axis's. And recheck them. Make changes in your firmware like you did on the extruder. Get them as close as possible. Then try a simple 20x20 cube.

I understand the "slow down" but i'm only working on the extruder to get it functioning right. printing cubes is a way to see how the extruder is preforming for prints. By the way, I cut the cubes down to 10 mm as to not waste as much material and to save time since i'm get about 2 hrs a night to tinker on the printer. I'm just trying to figure out if i missed something since my estep is at 165 and others seem to be around 90-100. The belts just needed those clothes pin spring installed, i was trying not to install them as of yet.

If your only calibrating your extruder and haven't done anything else then I would NOT be doing any prints yet. And I thought we already got you close with your extruder around 102. something if I remember right. So yes 165 sounds way off. Another thing, why even try to print if your belts are not tight? I think you are compounding your problem by having more then one thing off. Thats why I said take a step back. Do these things first. Make sure your pulleys are tight on the shaft. Re tighten all your allen screws on the pulleys. Then tighten all your belts. Do this before you do anything else. Then I would calibrate your X,Y and Z axis with a digital caliber and make changes in your firmware till you get it as close as you can. Then I'd mess with adjusting the extruder.

As I stated previously the belts are tight now after adding the springs.

Quote

Just curious what you are running for filament?
I have not run any ABS so I can not help you on bed and extruder heat or setup for that. But if your running PLA I can probably get in the ball park. Then you would have to tweak for your machine. BUT I feel you are not even ready for that yet.

Pla,1.75 don't remember the brand, it will be late Sunday or Monday before I can get that info.

Quote

Also I would be making these changes in your firmware (on your computer in Arduino interface) and uploading them to your mega card. I wouldn't do it on your LCD. That is if you you have an LCD. Save the LCD learning and playing with after you get the machine setup right.

I've done this, upload to the mega.

Question, how is one supposed to learn if they can make mistake? So far I learn how to unclog the extruder, what's the signs are for a loose belt, and what setting are what in the firmware. It would be different if there was a doc for after the build process.

Quote
therippa

Quote
srcga
Hi kn4ud, rippa,

You guys mind sharing some slic3r tips on PETG? I see you mention lift.. did not try that, going to do it myself.

I am having stringy hell right now

Sonny I have auto-level in place now via servo.. love it.. let me know what I can do to help.
Don't even bother trying to get the 5v bus on the stock folger to power the servo as-is. You'll need to wire up a separate 5V power supply to the ramps board for it.

I haven't used slic3r in a while, but when I moved to a bowden feed and had stringy prints, a retraction of 3mm fixed it for me.

Thanks

Gave up for now -- going back to ABS. I'll play with it later.

It does extrude and stick to the bed extremely well, just getting blobs and strings

Quote
Yelloow-Snow
Hey everyone. Noob here. Printer comes in today!!!

Anyways...

I was wondering if anyone would give me some pointers on building this.

I'm in the #folgertech IRC channel on freenode if anyone can help. Seems pretty dead tho =\

This is what I have from my research.
I have no ideas what i'm doing. Still learning the terms.

1. Follow the guild / [moosteria.blogspot.com]
2. X end stop left side is better than right
3. Use marlin instead of their software. Can I just use [github.com] ?

Upgrades:

Should I get my dad to print these first before I build it?

Top filament holder:
[www.thingiverse.com]

Fan mount for Ramps board
[www.thingiverse.com]

Power supply switch
[www.thingiverse.com]

Corner bracket
[www.thingiverse.com]


Endstop for X
[www.thingiverse.com]

X carriage
[www.thingiverse.com]
Do I need this also? [www.thingiverse.com]

X motor mount
[www.thingiverse.com]


Z Motor Stand-off
[www.thingiverse.com]

Z-Axis backlash
[www.thingiverse.com]

Z thumb adjust
[www.thingiverse.com]


Y belt
[www.thingiverse.com]

Y end stop
[www.thingiverse.com]

Y cable chain
[www.thingiverse.com]

For the initial build, I would just follow the folgertech guide and get it printing stuff, then you can start tweaking it and printing your own upgrades. Putting it together the first time is quite a little endeavor (but in a good way), it takes most people about 12-15 hours to build it, then 10 more hours to finish building it But, it would be a good idea to use my firmware fork instead of the folgertech one, as it fixes an x-endstop problem that isn't covered in the guide. When you get to that step in the guide, just load mine instead of theirs.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/16/2015 01:48PM by therippa.

---

Need help? Visit the Folgertech Wikia Page

The latest Marlin firmware with Folgertech Prusa i3 settings merged in, get it here

And check out my designs on Thingiverse, and follow me if you like what you see!

Got it. Thanks Therippa. You are such an asset to this community.

I didn't know if I could use yours b/c you modified it for auto bed leveling and such. I guess I could dig through the code and comment out the parts I dont need.

Quote
Yelloow-Snow
Got it. Thanks Therippa. You are such an asset to this community.

I didn't know if I could use yours b/c you modified it for auto bed leveling and such. I guess I could dig through the code and comment out the parts I dont need.

The forked branch supports autolevel, but it is turned off. The Folgertech firmware is an outdated version of Marlin, so all I did was merge in the Folgertech settings to the most current version of Marlin (and fixed a few things). You don't have to worry about any weird stuff happening. If you decide to use autolevel, you can check out my personal branch and see what the settings are.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/16/2015 02:39PM by therippa.

---

Need help? Visit the Folgertech Wikia Page

The latest Marlin firmware with Folgertech Prusa i3 settings merged in, get it here

And check out my designs on Thingiverse, and follow me if you like what you see!

Quote
srcga
Hi kn4ud, rippa,

You guys mind sharing some slic3r tips on PETG? I see you mention lift.. did not try that, going to do it myself.

I am having stringy hell right now

Sonny I have auto-level in place now via servo.. love it.. let me know what I can do to help.
Don't even bother trying to get the 5v bus on the stock folger to power the servo as-is. You'll need to wire up a separate 5V power supply to the ramps board for it.

srcga, I looked up the settings I used with slic3r back when I printed the lower support I posted the picture of.
First layer .3 and the others .2
infil 30% honeycomb
Speed:
perimeters 30mm/s
external perimeters 70%
infil 35mm/s
solid infil 30mm/s
support material 40mm/s
interface 100%
bridges 40 to 55 mm/s
gap fill 20 to 35 mm/s
travel 150
first layer speed 30%
Advanced:
First layer 200% to 250%
solid infil 105%
top solid infil 130%

extruder 235c for first layer 225c others
bed 100c for first layer 80c others

I am no expert on the petg but I did get some decent results. Now therippa or animoose can probably give you more information. I found that slowing the travel down helped alot. I had to turn up the heat on my first layer because at 225 on the first layer the extruder sounded like the popcorn popper at the movie theater. I am using the oem extruder. These are not the best settings I am sure and some of the guys on this site can give you some better information but I did get them to work. I am still learning myself . I have not used slic3r in a while I have been using s3d for about the last month or so. Hope this helps.

I have not done a lot with PETG, though I want to use it more as I've had really precise, high quality prints. Last weekend I did some prints with my usual 0.2mm settings:
0.2mm layer height, first layer 115%; 30% infill; various speed settings but mostly around 45 mm/s, except the first layer which I do at 30% speed. I used 225 or 230C for all layers on a bed at 80C. I have a cooling fan attached to the extruder.

One thing I printed was a cube gear with a different material for each part:
[goo.gl]
The PETG is the white one on the top right. You can't see how really clean the gear teeth are, but they were really nice. Not sure why there is a slight nib on the point of the corner - all the materials gave this to one degree or another.

---

See my blog at [moosteria.blogspot.com].

Quote
kn4ud


I am no expert on the petg but I did get some decent results. Now therippa or animoose can probably give you more information. I found that slowing the travel down helped alot. I had to turn up the heat on my first layer because at 225 on the first layer the extruder sounded like the popcorn popper at the movie theater. I am using the oem extruder. These are not the best settings I am sure and some of the guys on this site can give you some better information but I did get them to work. I am still learning myself . I have not used slic3r in a while I have been using s3d for about the last month or so. Hope this helps.

big help dude, thanks. It's all about trial and error, appreciate the help.
You too, animoose. Thanks.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/16/2015 10:22PM by srcga.

Quote
animoose
I have not done a lot with PETG, though I want to use it more as I've had really precise, high quality prints. Last weekend I did some prints with my usual 0.2mm settings:
0.2mm layer height, first layer 115%; 30% infill; various speed settings but mostly around 45 mm/s, except the first layer which I do at 30% speed. I used 225 or 230C for all layers on a bed at 80C. I have a cooling fan attached to the extruder.

One thing I printed was a cube gear with a different material for each part:
[goo.gl]
The PETG is the white one on the top right. You can't see how really clean the gear teeth are, but they were really nice. Not sure why there is a slight nib on the point of the corner - all the materials gave this to one degree or another.

What kind of PETG is it?

---

Newbie with Folgertech 2020 i3.

It is GizmoDorks PETG. I've been buying small amount from Filabits as a way of trying things out, as well as getting samples from other places too.

For the curious, the full range of filaments in this are: GizmoDorks PETG, Meltink orange, Meltink grey, JustPLA yellow, Quantum3D orange/yellow, ColorFabb PLA/PHA blue, Taulman t-glase clear and (not visible) Biome red. I was going to use Sainsmart wood instead of the JustPLA, but it delaminated.

---

See my blog at [moosteria.blogspot.com].

For those that have been worried about their X axis motor getting quite hot, here's a cooling shroud I designed and just got working today when my fans arrived. I didn't have a chance to compare temps before and after yet.

[www.thingiverse.com]

I print only in PETG with Slic3r 1.2.9

Lower the temps to reduce stringing. 220C will have very little strings. 245 a lot more.

I do 2 mm retraction, if the nozzle will be traveling very far. Here are the settings:

retraction: 2mm
retract speed: 25
min travel after retract: 50
wipe: yes

Also if it's a small part, print four of them so they cool down before the nozzle comes back around (I don't use a part fan).

I need help with Auto Tramming Setup...

Here are all the details:

Folger-Tech 2020 Auto Tramming Setup (W/Proximity Sensor)

Hardware:
LJ12A3-4-Z/BX Inductive Proximity Sensor Switch NPN DC6-36V - Resistor modified to produce 5v output
Aluminum Heated Bed Build Plate
X Endstop moved to the left (was running on right as manual indicated)

Firmware:
therippa/Marlin (initial upload was basically unmodified, with a few exception.
Temp Sensor_0 changed to 5
X_MAX POS 160 (my proximity sensor is currently on the wrong side of the hot end so the X Endstop in about 40mm inboard of the right edge of the build plate
Probe Rectangle set to 20/120/120/20 (leaning on the side of caution)
Changed Probe Offset to X -30, Y 0, Z 0 (will set Z offset once tramming is working)

Host for setting up: Repetier

Problems (P) and Workarounds (WA) in order of appearance:

P- when homing X it immediately reads a position of 200, second request to home moves carriage to the right about 5mm
WA - Changed #define X_HOME DIR 1 to #define X_HOME DIR -1
P- when homing X carriage moves to the right
WA- Changed #define INVERT_X_DIR from false to true
Note: G28 Home works fine now in all axises
P- enter command G29, nothing moves
WR- Removed comment for #define ENABLE_AUTO_BED_LEVELING
P- Home X no problem, Home Y no problem, Home Z, Z doesn’t move and I get an error: “echo :Z probe out. bed”
Note: Can manually move Z at this point, but if I try to home Z again, it zeros in it’s current position and I get the same prompt “echo :Z probe out. bed”
WA - manually move bed and x-carriage to positions of 100/100 leave Z where it is (+10mm). LCD shows the following: X100, Y100, Z10 (Tom’s Guide for Auto Tramming says Z Home should move the hot end to this current position)
P- enter command G29, I get a prompt to Home X/Y before Z
WR - Home X, then Y, then Z, move Hot end to 100/100/10 again
P- enter command G29 again, Hot End does the following
Hot End moves to X 50, Y 20 (LCD shows the same)
Z moves to Zero (LCD shows the same)
X move to the left until it hits the endstop (LCD shows X50, Y120) printer stops moving and I get the following promt “endstops hit: Z” “X:99.80 Y:20.00 Z:-.33”

Not sure where to go from here. I think it’s either a problem with the X-Axis setup or the Z Probe setup. I’ve compared several conf-h files, from theirppa’s to the Marlin file, I can’t seem to see what the hell is causing this!?!?

Please help if you can...thanks,
Sonny

FYI: My GITHUB has the latest conf-h file in it...

Got my kit last week and I'm in the midst of assembling this... been reading this thread for an hour now, but didn't find what I'm looking for, so I apologize if this has been asked:

I am assembling the extruder carriage, and the bearings don't fit in the saddles. The instructions say press them in, but they're off by about .8mm. at this point I plan on grinding down one edge just a bit to get them to fit snug. Have others seen this same issue?

Thanks!

John in San Diego, CA- USA

Quote
Spam
Got my kit last week and I'm in the midst of assembling this... been reading this thread for an hour now, but didn't find what I'm looking for, so I apologize if this has been asked:

I am assembling the extruder carriage, and the bearings don't fit in the saddles. The instructions say press them in, but they're off by about .8mm. at this point I plan on grinding down one edge just a bit to get them to fit snug. Have others seen this same issue?

Thanks!

John in San Diego, CA- USA

Yep, I had the exact same issue. It looks like they had more shrinkage than they imagined. I ended up using a Dremel to get them in there. No WAY would they 'snap in'. One little irritation but don't let that discourage you. I plan on printing a replacement with the right dimensions when I get done with all of the 'honey-do' things I keep printing for Halloween, Birthdays,...... Can't wait for Christmas!!!

Quote
sonnylowe
I need help with Auto Tramming Setup...

Here are all the details:

Folger-Tech 2020 Auto Tramming Setup (W/Proximity Sensor)

Hardware:
LJ12A3-4-Z/BX Inductive Proximity Sensor Switch NPN DC6-36V - Resistor modified to produce 5v output
Aluminum Heated Bed Build Plate
X Endstop moved to the left (was running on right as manual indicated)

Firmware:
therippa/Marlin (initial upload was basically unmodified, with a few exception.
Temp Sensor_0 changed to 5
X_MAX POS 160 (my proximity sensor is currently on the wrong side of the hot end so the X Endstop in about 40mm inboard of the right edge of the build plate
Probe Rectangle set to 20/120/120/20 (leaning on the side of caution)
Changed Probe Offset to X -30, Y 0, Z 0 (will set Z offset once tramming is working)

Host for setting up: Repetier

Problems (P) and Workarounds (WA) in order of appearance:

P- when homing X it immediately reads a position of 200, second request to home moves carriage to the right about 5mm
WA - Changed #define X_HOME DIR 1 to #define X_HOME DIR -1
P- when homing X carriage moves to the right
WA- Changed #define INVERT_X_DIR from false to true
Note: G28 Home works fine now in all axises
P- enter command G29, nothing moves
WR- Removed comment for #define ENABLE_AUTO_BED_LEVELING
P- Home X no problem, Home Y no problem, Home Z, Z doesn’t move and I get an error: “echo :Z probe out. bed”
Note: Can manually move Z at this point, but if I try to home Z again, it zeros in it’s current position and I get the same prompt “echo :Z probe out. bed”
WA - manually move bed and x-carriage to positions of 100/100 leave Z where it is (+10mm). LCD shows the following: X100, Y100, Z10 (Tom’s Guide for Auto Tramming says Z Home should move the hot end to this current position)
P- enter command G29, I get a prompt to Home X/Y before Z
WR - Home X, then Y, then Z, move Hot end to 100/100/10 again
P- enter command G29 again, Hot End does the following
Hot End moves to X 50, Y 20 (LCD shows the same)
Z moves to Zero (LCD shows the same)
X move to the left until it hits the endstop (LCD shows X50, Y120) printer stops moving and I get the following promt “endstops hit: Z” “X:99.80 Y:20.00 Z:-.33”

Not sure where to go from here. I think it’s either a problem with the X-Axis setup or the Z Probe setup. I’ve compared several conf-h files, from theirppa’s to the Marlin file, I can’t seem to see what the hell is causing this!?!?

Please help if you can...thanks,
Sonny

FYI: My GITHUB has the latest conf-h file in it...

I just diff'd your config with mine (https://github.com/therippa/Marlin/compare/E3D_V6...sonnylowe:Release). Try the following changes...

Line 299: Uncomment
Line 320: Set to false
Line 391: Comment out

---

Need help? Visit the Folgertech Wikia Page

The latest Marlin firmware with Folgertech Prusa i3 settings merged in, get it here

And check out my designs on Thingiverse, and follow me if you like what you see!

Quote
tjnamtiw

Quote
Spam
Got my kit last week and I'm in the midst of assembling this... been reading this thread for an hour now, but didn't find what I'm looking for, so I apologize if this has been asked:

I am assembling the extruder carriage, and the bearings don't fit in the saddles. The instructions say press them in, but they're off by about .8mm. at this point I plan on grinding down one edge just a bit to get them to fit snug. Have others seen this same issue?

Thanks!

John in San Diego, CA- USA

Yep, I had the exact same issue. It looks like they had more shrinkage than they imagined. I ended up using a Dremel to get them in there. No WAY would they 'snap in'. One little irritation but don't let that discourage you. I plan on printing a replacement with the right dimensions when I get done with all of the 'honey-do' things I keep printing for Halloween, Birthdays,...... Can't wait for Christmas!!!

There's probably a bit of overextrusion when they printed the parts. You could try putting the piece with the bearings in a vise, with a piece of wood on each side to spread the load, and very gently tightening the vise. This worked for me (and once I had the printer up and running and calibrated, I printed some replacements).

---

See my blog at [moosteria.blogspot.com].

The part is definitely small, as the belt would not fit without modification, and the holes for the stepper motor are too close together by about 1/32" (1mm) One of the screws is even to short to grab, so I'm off to the hardware store to look for replacements.

Overall, I am a little disappointed, but I cannot complain about the cost. These linear bearings keep the cost down, but they suck, so I'll be looking for smoother and quieter replacements (delrin bushings?) soon... With some tweaking, I got everything sliding smoothly, but there is a lot of bearing noise... The rest of the kit looks really well put together, and I cannot wait to start using it!

Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 10/17/2015 06:00PM by Spam.