Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread)

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animoose

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bmays
I absolutely love PLA since it prints great for me. I agree, the FT ABS I got is a but of a PITA to use. I bought some wood filament that I'm pretty stoked to try but I'm not certain this stock MK9 setup will do it justice.

@jhitesma, Why do you no longer have your marlin firmware listed in your signature? Your files are the only reason my auto level is working like a champ now

I have not had good experiences with the wood filaments. The ones with very fine particles don't give much of a wood appearance and the ones with larger particles can block a 0.4mm nozzle. [docs.google.com] tracks some of the filaments I've played with.

Sorry to hear that! I love wood filament and get amazing results! Especially after being sanded, stained, and clear coated.

Check these out, all printed in standard PLA settings:
[www.thingiverse.com]
[www.thingiverse.com]
[www.thingiverse.com]

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tjnamtiw
There's been a lot of discussion on this forum about alternate controllers from Arduino to Raspberry Pi to CHIP. I'm from a manufacturing/engineering/robotic/machine control background and I'm familiar with a type of programming called ladder logic, although I've used everything from Basic to C along the way. I am wondering if anyone knows about a really fully supported (many peripherals and free programming language) group of controllers called CUBLOC. [www.comfiletech.com]

While they may not have direct usage to control a printer, I wouldn't put it past some of the guru's here to find a way. This old fart is beyond that stage in life! I have two pellet stoves and found it easy to use ladder logic to mimic the control systems and safeties on them with CUBLOC controllers. You can program in both Basic and ladder logic and use subroutines to jump back and forth. Very intriguing. You can even link in touch screen displays (at an upcharge, of course!! $$$).

I curious into what shortcomings people feel they are having with Marlin that they want to change the controller. I've change the Software end, i.e repetier and that made sense for me to switch to a fully networked solution. I'm just not understanding why change the controller itself.

Thanks

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jhitesma

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tjnamtiw
I printed two single wall _40x10 test pieces and saw that 0.9 extrusion multiplier brought it down to a wall of 0.48 mm. I'm printing the pin test piece right now.

Did you manually set the extrusion width to 0.48? I wouldn't worry about the comments if you're setting it manually.

Quote

I don't see any comments in my code but I just discovered that I have 'verbose gcode' turned off in slic3r. After this is done, I'll turn it on. It says that if you use SD cards, verbose mode could slow the processor down.

I just checked and I don't have verbose mode enabled.

Here's what the top my gcode output from slic3r looks like:

; generated by Slic3r 1.2.9 on 2016-02-21 at 09:58:32

; external perimeters extrusion width = 0.48mm
; perimeters extrusion width = 0.48mm
; infill extrusion width = 0.48mm
; solid infill extrusion width = 0.48mm
; top infill extrusion width = 0.48mm

M190 S70 ; set bed temperature
G28 ; home all axes
G29; Autolevel

Those last 2 lines are from my start g-code under printer settings.

Not sure what I may have enabled to get that there

I turned on verbose mode under 'Output options' in Slic3r and got those same notations except for the external perimeter width which, for me, is 0.40 for some reason. I guess because you dialed in 0.48 as default, it sets them all that way.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/22/2016 10:01AM by tjnamtiw.

---

Folger Tech 2020 i3 and FT-5 as well as modified JGAurora A5 with direct drive E3D/Titan. All running the BLTOUCH.
Great kits. Having fun and running the heck out of them.
Running Marlin 1.1.0 RC8 on the i3 and FT5. Custom firmware on A5.
Folger Tech Wiki board >[folgertech.wikia.com]

I definitely have to give Rep Host a try. I've been happy with Octoprint but I'm always looking to see what else is out there.

I spent some time over the last few days getting my E3D-V6 Lite together and installed. I had printed a bunch of things to get ready, knowing I wouldn't want to put the old hot end back on if I forgot something.

These:
Z-endstop trigger adjustment: [www.thingiverse.com]
Stronger Z-endstop mount: [www.thingiverse.com]
E3D fan mount and duct: [www.thingiverse.com]
E3D Mount for MK9: [www.thingiverse.com] (thanks Animoose!)

The assembly itself was easy. I opted to solder the leads rather than use the ferrules, but that was no big deal.

Got all the printed pieces installed, wiring connected and tested - it worked! What I found, though, was the mount required the filament go through the left-hand hold in the filament guide rather than the right, like it had been (see pic). What was strange was the filament REFUSED to fit past the bearing, I removed the filament guide, carefully filed, coaxed, pleaded but no no avail. Something was out of whack. So instead, I reversed the mount (after dremmeling a notch in the back so it would sit flush against the motor) so the filament would go through the right side again.

Great, right? No. Unfortunately, I didn't realize how precise my prints would have to be, and the filament doesn't go into the PTFE tube without some interference. I suspect it's because my printed mount is off a bit (no surprise). I did coax it through and fired it up - the motor can push the filament into the hot end but once there, it mostly clicks trying to push it through the nozzle. I think there's just too much resistance at the top of the PTFE. I'm going to drill the screw holes a little tonight to see if I can get some wiggle room to better position the mount under the guide.

Whew! Always an adventure! Thanks animoose and others for their great parts on Thingiverse and advice here!

Quote
markts
Great, right? No. Unfortunately, I didn't realize how precise my prints would have to be, and the filament doesn't go into the PTFE tube without some interference. I suspect it's because my printed mount is off a bit (no surprise). I did coax it through and fired it up - the motor can push the filament into the hot end but once there, it mostly clicks trying to push it through the nozzle. I think there's just too much resistance at the top of the PTFE. I'm going to drill the screw holes a little tonight to see if I can get some wiggle room to better position the mount under the guide.

Whew! Always an adventure! Thanks animoose and others for their great parts on Thingiverse and advice here!

Wow, you don't see those old injection molded, non adjustable extruders much anymore

Your filament might be catching on the lip of the PTFE. You can widen it a bit with a phillips screw driver and that might stop the filament getting caught.

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widespreaddeadhead

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markts
Great, right? No. Unfortunately, I didn't realize how precise my prints would have to be, and the filament doesn't go into the PTFE tube without some interference. I suspect it's because my printed mount is off a bit (no surprise). I did coax it through and fired it up - the motor can push the filament into the hot end but once there, it mostly clicks trying to push it through the nozzle. I think there's just too much resistance at the top of the PTFE. I'm going to drill the screw holes a little tonight to see if I can get some wiggle room to better position the mount under the guide.

Whew! Always an adventure! Thanks animoose and others for their great parts on Thingiverse and advice here!

Wow, you don't see those old injection molded, non adjustable extruders much anymore

Your filament might be catching on the lip of the PTFE. You can widen it a bit with a phillips screw driver and that might stop the filament getting caught.

I considered cutting the PTFE flush, but the filament is just not aligned with the hole.

Ooo - point me to a better (adjustable) extruder! (though I'm not sure I want to take that on just yet!)

Edit: Does Folger ship something different now?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/22/2016 10:45AM by markts.

Quote
markts
I considered cutting the PTFE flush, but the filament is just not aligned with the hole.

Ooo - point me to a better (adjustable) extruder! (though I'm not sure I want to take that on just yet!)

Edit: Does Folger ship something different now?

Funny thing is, I actually still use that same injection molded one, it works surprisingly well.

Not certain, but I'm pretty sure they ship with this extruder now [folgertech.com]
But you can easily 3d print one [www.thingiverse.com] I've used this one also and it works very well if you use the right spring, but it's not adjustable.

I don't use this extruder but I used the mounts with my e3d to get some Z height back [www.thingiverse.com] but the extruder might be something you like.

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widespreaddeadhead

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markts
I considered cutting the PTFE flush, but the filament is just not aligned with the hole.

Ooo - point me to a better (adjustable) extruder! (though I'm not sure I want to take that on just yet!)

Edit: Does Folger ship something different now?

Funny thing is, I actually still use that same injection molded one, it works surprisingly well.

Not certain, but I'm pretty sure they ship with this extruder now [folgertech.com]
But you can easily 3d print one [www.thingiverse.com] I've used this one also and it works very well if you use the right spring, but it's not adjustable.

I don't use this extruder but I used the mounts with my e3d to get some Z height back [www.thingiverse.com] but the extruder might be something you like.

That is indeed the one they ship now. That's the one I got from them in December.

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widespreaddeadhead

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markts
Great, right? No. Unfortunately, I didn't realize how precise my prints would have to be, and the filament doesn't go into the PTFE tube without some interference. I suspect it's because my printed mount is off a bit (no surprise). I did coax it through and fired it up - the motor can push the filament into the hot end but once there, it mostly clicks trying to push it through the nozzle. I think there's just too much resistance at the top of the PTFE. I'm going to drill the screw holes a little tonight to see if I can get some wiggle room to better position the mount under the guide.

Whew! Always an adventure! Thanks animoose and others for their great parts on Thingiverse and advice here!

Wow, you don't see those old injection molded, non adjustable extruders much anymore

Your filament might be catching on the lip of the PTFE. You can widen it a bit with a phillips screw driver and that might stop the filament getting caught.

That's the style of extruder that Folger originally supplied. They switched over to the adjustable one later.

The positioning of the PTFE relative to the extruder is a bit tricky and in my case I moved the extruder forward slightly by putting a couple of M3 washers between it and the motor. Slightly chamfering the edge of the PTFE tube helped. I now find it works fine, though it can help to cut the end of the filament at an angle.

---

See my blog at [moosteria.blogspot.com].

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marc2912

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widespreaddeadhead

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markts
I considered cutting the PTFE flush, but the filament is just not aligned with the hole.

Ooo - point me to a better (adjustable) extruder! (though I'm not sure I want to take that on just yet!)

Edit: Does Folger ship something different now?

Funny thing is, I actually still use that same injection molded one, it works surprisingly well.

Not certain, but I'm pretty sure they ship with this extruder now [folgertech.com]
But you can easily 3d print one [www.thingiverse.com] I've used this one also and it works very well if you use the right spring, but it's not adjustable.

I don't use this extruder but I used the mounts with my e3d to get some Z height back [www.thingiverse.com] but the extruder might be something you like.

That is indeed the one they ship now. That's the one I got from them in December.

You can also buy them on ebay for under $10. I replaced my original non-adjustable one a couple of months ago.

---

See my blog at [moosteria.blogspot.com].

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tjnamtiw
There's been a lot of discussion on this forum about alternate controllers from Arduino to Raspberry Pi to CHIP.

Just to clarify, Pi or CHIP don't replace the ramps board. Basically they act as a dedicated computer for the printer so it's more like printing while tethered over USB - but since it's a dedicated computer not doing anything else it's less likely to do something that will disrupt the print.

Basically it makes the printer a device on your network allowing you to work with it from something like repetier-host as if it was connected directly to the computer. So you get most of the benefits of printing from SD combined with most of the benefits of being connected by USB, plus the ability to setup users and punch a hole through your firewall to access the printer from anywhere as well as run a webcam. You can also use some of the Pi/CHIP's I/O's to control relays so you can do things like turn on/off a power supply to shut down the printer.

RAMBO, Smoothie, replicape...those are alternative controllers that replace the RAMPS. RAMPS is functional, widely supported and not that hard to hack. But Marlin is kind of a mess internally and the RAMPS hardware isn't very well designed. It will work, but I can see a lot of reasons to upgrade to a better option with stepper controllers that can be adjusted through software, easier flashing, cleaner hardware, better power management...but I'm not about to run out and do that kind of upgrade on my printer. RAMPS is more than adequate and isn't really limiting me in anyway.

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widespreaddeadhead

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markts
I considered cutting the PTFE flush, but the filament is just not aligned with the hole.

Ooo - point me to a better (adjustable) extruder! (though I'm not sure I want to take that on just yet!)

Edit: Does Folger ship something different now?

Funny thing is, I actually still use that same injection molded one, it works surprisingly well.

Not certain, but I'm pretty sure they ship with this extruder now [folgertech.com]
But you can easily 3d print one [www.thingiverse.com] I've used this one also and it works very well if you use the right spring, but it's not adjustable.

I don't use this extruder but I used the mounts with my e3d to get some Z height back [www.thingiverse.com] but the extruder might be something you like.

This is great, thank you!

I'm also a little concerned with losing Z height. When I look at the extruder you pointed out, my mechanically-challenged brain can't make sense of the pieces. So using some of those with the E3D will raise it all up to give me some height back?

Quote
animoose

That's the style of extruder that Folger originally supplied. They switched over to the adjustable one later.

The positioning of the PTFE relative to the extruder is a bit tricky and in my case I moved the extruder forward slightly by putting a couple of M3 washers between it and the motor. Slightly chamfering the edge of the PTFE tube helped. I now find it works fine, though it can help to cut the end of the filament at an angle.

I may also do that to get myself back printing. I don't mind ordering from FT since they're in the next state over so shipping is pretty quick. What I can't tell is, is the new adjustable one a drop in replacement? I don't see the same screw holes. (again, mechanically challenged here!)

Edit: What/how does the new adjustable one "adjust", anyway?

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/22/2016 11:29AM by markts.

I would love to see a Prusa XL version with double the build dimensions

Quote
markts
I'm also a little concerned with losing Z height. When I look at the extruder you pointed out, my mechanically-challenged brain can't make sense of the pieces. So using some of those with the E3D will raise it all up to give me some height back?

Yes but if you don't want to use that extruder you'll have to 'cut' off most of the extruder part, I've already done this with Netfabb and have been meaning to make a remix, just need to find more time.

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markts
I may also do that to get myself back printing. I don't mind ordering from FT since they're in the next state over so shipping is pretty quick. What I can't tell is, is the new adjustable one a drop in replacement? I don't see the same screw holes. (again, mechanically challenged here!)

Edit: What/how does the new adjustable one "adjust", anyway?

The new folgertech one won't adjust, I think, just tensioned better than without the spring. After looking at the 2nd photo for the extruder I'm pretty sure the screws are in the same place and it should be a drop in.

Edited 4 time(s). Last edit at 02/22/2016 01:21PM by widespreaddeadhead.

Can anyone share their settings for "retraction"? And how well does the retraction function work for the extruder?

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tjnamtiw

Quote
jhitesma

I don't see any comments in my code but I just discovered that I have 'verbose gcode' turned off in slic3r. After this is done, I'll turn it on. It says that if you use SD cards, verbose mode could slow the processor down.

I just checked and I don't have verbose mode enabled.

Here's what the top my gcode output from slic3r looks like:

; generated by Slic3r 1.2.9 on 2016-02-21 at 09:58:32

; external perimeters extrusion width = 0.48mm
; perimeters extrusion width = 0.48mm
; infill extrusion width = 0.48mm
; solid infill extrusion width = 0.48mm
; top infill extrusion width = 0.48mm

M190 S70 ; set bed temperature
G28 ; home all axes
G29; Autolevel

Those last 2 lines are from my start g-code under printer settings.

Not sure what I may have enabled to get that there

I turned on verbose mode under 'Output options' in Slic3r and got those same notations except for the external perimeter width which, for me, is 0.40 for some reason. I guess because you dialed in 0.48 as default, it sets them all that way.[/quote]

Interestingly, when I look at the G code for Benchy, it shows all of the thicknesses specified at 0.67 mm, rather than 0.48. I made no changes. I LIED!!! I CHANGED FROM 0.3 TO 0.2 LAYER HEIGHT! And the width went from 0.48 to 0.67 mm....???!!!

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/22/2016 11:52AM by tjnamtiw.

---

Folger Tech 2020 i3 and FT-5 as well as modified JGAurora A5 with direct drive E3D/Titan. All running the BLTOUCH.
Great kits. Having fun and running the heck out of them.
Running Marlin 1.1.0 RC8 on the i3 and FT5. Custom firmware on A5.
Folger Tech Wiki board >[folgertech.wikia.com]

Quote
markts
I definitely have to give Rep Host a try. I've been happy with Octoprint but I'm always looking to see what else is out there.

I spent some time over the last few days getting my E3D-V6 Lite together and installed. I had printed a bunch of things to get ready, knowing I wouldn't want to put the old hot end back on if I forgot something.

These:
Z-endstop trigger adjustment: [www.thingiverse.com]
Stronger Z-endstop mount: [www.thingiverse.com]
E3D fan mount and duct: [www.thingiverse.com]
E3D Mount for MK9: [www.thingiverse.com] (thanks Animoose!)

The assembly itself was easy. I opted to solder the leads rather than use the ferrules, but that was no big deal.

Got all the printed pieces installed, wiring connected and tested - it worked! What I found, though, was the mount required the filament go through the left-hand hold in the filament guide rather than the right, like it had been (see pic). What was strange was the filament REFUSED to fit past the bearing, I removed the filament guide, carefully filed, coaxed, pleaded but no no avail. Something was out of whack. So instead, I reversed the mount (after dremmeling a notch in the back so it would sit flush against the motor) so the filament would go through the right side again.

Great, right? No. Unfortunately, I didn't realize how precise my prints would have to be, and the filament doesn't go into the PTFE tube without some interference. I suspect it's because my printed mount is off a bit (no surprise). I did coax it through and fired it up - the motor can push the filament into the hot end but once there, it mostly clicks trying to push it through the nozzle. I think there's just too much resistance at the top of the PTFE. I'm going to drill the screw holes a little tonight to see if I can get some wiggle room to better position the mount under the guide.

Whew! Always an adventure! Thanks animoose and others for their great parts on Thingiverse and advice here!

Do you just have the spring arm removed in that picture or do you have an older version?

---

Newbie with Folgertech 2020 i3.

Quote
msaeger

Quote
markts
I definitely have to give Rep Host a try. I've been happy with Octoprint but I'm always looking to see what else is out there.

I spent some time over the last few days getting my E3D-V6 Lite together and installed. I had printed a bunch of things to get ready, knowing I wouldn't want to put the old hot end back on if I forgot something.

These:
Z-endstop trigger adjustment: [www.thingiverse.com]
Stronger Z-endstop mount: [www.thingiverse.com]
E3D fan mount and duct: [www.thingiverse.com]
E3D Mount for MK9: [www.thingiverse.com] (thanks Animoose!)

The assembly itself was easy. I opted to solder the leads rather than use the ferrules, but that was no big deal.

Got all the printed pieces installed, wiring connected and tested - it worked! What I found, though, was the mount required the filament go through the left-hand hold in the filament guide rather than the right, like it had been (see pic). What was strange was the filament REFUSED to fit past the bearing, I removed the filament guide, carefully filed, coaxed, pleaded but no no avail. Something was out of whack. So instead, I reversed the mount (after dremmeling a notch in the back so it would sit flush against the motor) so the filament would go through the right side again.

Great, right? No. Unfortunately, I didn't realize how precise my prints would have to be, and the filament doesn't go into the PTFE tube without some interference. I suspect it's because my printed mount is off a bit (no surprise). I did coax it through and fired it up - the motor can push the filament into the hot end but once there, it mostly clicks trying to push it through the nozzle. I think there's just too much resistance at the top of the PTFE. I'm going to drill the screw holes a little tonight to see if I can get some wiggle room to better position the mount under the guide.

Whew! Always an adventure! Thanks animoose and others for their great parts on Thingiverse and advice here!

Do you just have the spring arm removed in that picture or do you have an older version?

Older version. New version is on the way.

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widespreaddeadhead

Quote
markts
I'm also a little concerned with losing Z height. When I look at the extruder you pointed out, my mechanically-challenged brain can't make sense of the pieces. So using some of those with the E3D will raise it all up to give me some height back?

Yes but if you don't want to use that extruder you'll have to 'cut' off most of the extruder part, I've already done this with Netfabb and have been meaning to make a remix, just need to find more time.

Maybe when I get home and look at the pictures against the printer I'll be able to tell what's what. I still can't visualize what part to use or what to remove from what (which I'd be willing to try!).

Quote
widespreaddeadhead

Quote
markts
I may also do that to get myself back printing. I don't mind ordering from FT since they're in the next state over so shipping is pretty quick. What I can't tell is, is the new adjustable one a drop in replacement? I don't see the same screw holes. (again, mechanically challenged here!)

Edit: What/how does the new adjustable one "adjust", anyway?

The new folgertech one won't adjust, I think, just tensioned better than without the spring. After looking at the 2nd photo for the extruder I'm pretty sure the screws are in the same place and it should be a drop in.

I'll let you know. I just ordered it. I'm just consumed with getting it printing again!

Quote
markts
Maybe when I get home and look at the pictures against the printer I'll be able to tell what's what. I still can't visualize what part to use or what to remove from what (which I'd be willing to try!).

You'll need to print the mounting plate(this will screw on to the stock x axis gantry), the z endstop(you'll need another piece for this also something like this: [www.thingiverse.com]), and the extruder clamp. The piece that'll need cut, if you want to use a different extruder, is the motor mount.

It's alive!

I managed to get the filament passing through the PTFE easier and was able to do a 20mm cube test print - looks great!

One thing I noticed - with the old hot end, I was printing PLA at 175C. With the new one (and even noted by E3D) I'm up to 195 now. I wonder if it's a difference in the thermistors? I'm going to grab my non-contact thermometer and check (at a lower temp, one that the thermometer can handle). It seems like one of them is/was off?

Anyway, at least now I have the option of printing some of those upgrade parts!

Quote
markts
It's alive!

I managed to get the filament passing through the PTFE easier and was able to do a 20mm cube test print - looks great!

One thing I noticed - with the old hot end, I was printing PLA at 175C. With the new one (and even noted by E3D) I'm up to 195 now. I wonder if it's a difference in the thermistors? I'm going to grab my non-contact thermometer and check (at a lower temp, one that the thermometer can handle). It seems like one of them is/was off?

Anyway, at least now I have the option of printing some of those upgrade parts!

Thermistors that come with hotends are cheap and highly inaccurate. Also, depending on the hotend layout even if you used the same thermistor one might need to be higher for the same filament. That being that the thermistor isn't actually reading the temperature of the hotend but a piece of metal somewhat close to it and the heat dissipation will be different in each hotend.

Also, the location of the thermistor in the heat block can be cause for different readings.

Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 02/23/2016 10:25AM by widespreaddeadhead.

To anyone running the Vslot setup. How tight to you adjust the wheels? I just converted to Vslot by using Sonnylowe's setup. I am now getting missed steps and offset prints on anything with a big y axis travel move. I have tried upping the voltage, lowering the voltage, changed the print speed, loosened the bed, tightened the bed. I am at a loss.

Quote
built350camaro
To anyone running the Vslot setup. How tight to you adjust the wheels? I just converted to Vslot by using Sonnylowe's setup. I am now getting missed steps and offset prints on anything with a big y axis travel move. I have tried upping the voltage, lowering the voltage, changed the print speed, loosened the bed, tightened the bed. I am at a loss.

I don't have this setup, but I vaguely remember someone having an issue like this, and I believe he just loosened the wheels a little and everything was smooth. Not 100% though and I'd wait until someone else chimes in about it.

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widespreaddeadhead

Quote
built350camaro
To anyone running the Vslot setup. How tight to you adjust the wheels? I just converted to Vslot by using Sonnylowe's setup. I am now getting missed steps and offset prints on anything with a big y axis travel move. I have tried upping the voltage, lowering the voltage, changed the print speed, loosened the bed, tightened the bed. I am at a loss.

I don't have this setup, but I vaguely remember someone having an issue like this, and I believe he just loosened the wheels a little and everything was smooth. Not 100% though and I'd wait until someone else chimes in about it.

Haven't switched to it yet but have a similar setup on a laser cutter I built. I'd check two things; 1) tightness of wheels, can the carriage travel easily and smoothly, b) the tension of the belt. If it's too loose you're going to skip since the carriage adds more friction than you had before.

How long do your guyses print bed take to get to 100c? With 1/8 inch thick glass?

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Folger Tech 2020 i3 Wiki

Custom google search for the Folger Tech 2020 i3 forum topic by Animoose

Quote
UltiFix
How long do your guyses print bed take to get to 100c? With 1/8 inch thick glass?

<10 min
Insulate the bottom of the heat bed, and also place a piece of cardboard on top of the glass when it's warming. It'll make all the difference.

All this talk of extruders seems to be reinforcing something I'm discovering with my kit, but I wanted to ask and make sure I'm not overlooking something.

I read through the whole thread, but it's sort of blurred together, and even with the custom search, I'm not sure I'm finding what I'm looking for.

My extruder is skipping/clicking. It looks like the brass wheel is being pressed too hard against the pulley and can't run. I replaced the spring with a weaker spring I had lying around, and now it's feeding (backwards, but that's the typical motor polarity problem). Is this the right fix (replacing the spring) or is there something else I should try?

Thanks!

Quote
bstern
All this talk of extruders seems to be reinforcing something I'm discovering with my kit, but I wanted to ask and make sure I'm not overlooking something.

I read through the whole thread, but it's sort of blurred together, and even with the custom search, I'm not sure I'm finding what I'm looking for.

My extruder is skipping/clicking. It looks like the brass wheel is being pressed too hard against the pulley and can't run. I replaced the spring with a weaker spring I had lying around, and now it's feeding (backwards, but that's the typical motor polarity problem). Is this the right fix (replacing the spring) or is there something else I should try?

Thanks!

Has it ever worked? If not maybe you need to increase the stepper current. If it worked a while maybe there is a clog someplace.

Have you tried extruding with the nozzle above the bed.

---

Newbie with Folgertech 2020 i3.