Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) July 15, 2015 11:31AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 35 |
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) July 15, 2015 12:23PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 135 |
Quote
RedneckGeek
The longer M3 bolts that hold the extruder assembly together were too long. These are the bottom two that go through the fan, heatsink, and extruder and into the motor. The fan and everything was loose. No big deal though, just took about .7mm off the tips of the threaded ends and bolted it all back up.
I also epoxied the M5 nuts into the Z/X brackets and while I was doing that I dabbed a little epoxy on each end of the bearing holder sections because they were a bit loose and seemed like they slide right out. Just a little dab on each end to act as a stop.
A small challenge I've had is finding out where to actually change settings. I found lots of theory on changing the steps for the extruder but a bit of conflicting information about where to actually set it in the software. Eventually I found a thread somewhere that mentioned the string I needed and I was able to figure out the rest.
All in all I have had a good experience with this printer so far. I've only been using PLA for now figuring I'd master one medium before switching to another.
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) July 15, 2015 12:59PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 20 |
Quote
mel0n
Quote
RedneckGeek
The longer M3 bolts that hold the extruder assembly together were too long. These are the bottom two that go through the fan, heatsink, and extruder and into the motor. The fan and everything was loose. No big deal though, just took about .7mm off the tips of the threaded ends and bolted it all back up.
I also epoxied the M5 nuts into the Z/X brackets and while I was doing that I dabbed a little epoxy on each end of the bearing holder sections because they were a bit loose and seemed like they slide right out. Just a little dab on each end to act as a stop.
A small challenge I've had is finding out where to actually change settings. I found lots of theory on changing the steps for the extruder but a bit of conflicting information about where to actually set it in the software. Eventually I found a thread somewhere that mentioned the string I needed and I was able to figure out the rest.
All in all I have had a good experience with this printer so far. I've only been using PLA for now figuring I'd master one medium before switching to another.
Welcome to the discussion! I reduced the quote to the points I am going to comment on (just to reduce scrolling on the forum).
My bolts were a tad too long as well, though I just wedged a couple small pieces of foam on both sides of the heat sink (fan/extruder) which actually turned out nice because it helps dampen vibration. All the add-ons for the mk7 expect the longer screws so everything is snug with add-ons such as the fan shroud I uploaded.
Epoxying those nuts would probably be a good idea, but I feel like there are some better, less permanent designs out there. when it comes time to disassemble your x-carriage (which you will have to do eventually for any variety of reasons) its much easier to just pop out the m5 nuts than to undo the whole threaded rod.
For changing settings, if you can, always change it in the firmware and keep a log of your changes for when you update firmware so you know what you changed and what the values were. This way, you can hook up any computer/print server/lcd to your printer and never have to mess with your calibration settings. However for best print quality you should have fine tuned your filament diameter and extrusion multiplier in your slicing software for each filament.
I also enjoyed PLA but came to the realization, that I need backup parts for my printer, and most of them just can't be PLA due to temps/durability. When I first switched to ABS I hated it. Hard to get it to stick, layer separation, its a lot more touchy about temp settings, having to use some sort of coating on the bed, the smell, etc. However after switching to ABS and discovering purple glue stick, I really don't want to go back to PLA (after switching back and forth a few times to be sure). Once you deal with your first PLA clogs, and get into longer prints, you will probably start running into the downsides of PLA. Plus there's the magic of the purple glue stick and ABS. It sticks so well you practically have to break the glass to remove it while its hot, but if you let it cool you will hear loud pops and cracks that almost sound like glass cracking and at that point the print is almost completely released from the bed and you can just pick it up without any prying. Its really amazing.
Some tips on glue stick for people curious/just starting out with it (these are just things I discovered on my own):
- Always let your heated bed cool down until the print pops off by itself, pulling off prints while hot will remove some of the glue stick and force you to clean/reapply
- You can get away with coating the bed once every 5-8 prints if you let the bed cool as described above
- You can touch up little spots that may have lost their glue to the print, but only expect to get 1 more print out of that coat, and its usually best to just redo it
- If touching up don't let your coat get too thick or it will peel from the glass when you remove your print (doesnt really matter though because you should only print 1-2 more times max on a touched up coating)
Steps for cleaning/coating with glue stick:
- raise your z axis up out of the way and home the x axis
- Hold the tip of the glue stick as flat as possible on the bed and try to make nice clean/even lines when applying
- try to put as little as possible on while still covering the whole glass surface, the thinner you get it, the better it will perform and longer it will last
- for cleaning, just saturate a paper towel in isopropyl alcohol and wipe clean, wait to dry (like a minute or 2) before reapplying glue
You can use glue stick on PLA, but just know it won't let go when it cools like ABS and is a bitch to pry off.
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) July 15, 2015 01:24PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 135 |
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) July 15, 2015 02:35PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 35 |
Quote
mel0n
I also enjoyed PLA but came to the realization, that I need backup parts for my printer, and most of them just can't be PLA due to temps/durability. When I first switched to ABS I hated it. Hard to get it to stick, layer separation, its a lot more touchy about temp settings, having to use some sort of coating on the bed, the smell, etc. However after switching to ABS and discovering purple glue stick, I really don't want to go back to PLA (after switching back and forth a few times to be sure). Once you deal with your first PLA clogs, and get into longer prints, you will probably start running into the downsides of PLA. Plus there's the magic of the purple glue stick and ABS. It sticks so well you practically have to break the glass to remove it while its hot, but if you let it cool you will hear loud pops and cracks that almost sound like glass cracking and at that point the print is almost completely released from the bed and you can just pick it up without any prying. Its really amazing.
Some tips on glue stick for people curious/just starting out with it (these are just things I discovered on my own):
- Always let your heated bed cool down until the print pops off by itself, pulling off prints while hot will remove some of the glue stick and force you to clean/reapply
- You can get away with coating the bed once every 5-8 prints if you let the bed cool as described above
- You can touch up little spots that may have lost their glue to the print, but only expect to get 1 more print out of that coat, and its usually best to just redo it
- If touching up don't let your coat get too thick or it will peel from the glass when you remove your print (doesnt really matter though because you should only print 1-2 more times max on a touched up coating)
Steps for cleaning/coating with glue stick:
- raise your z axis up out of the way and home the x axis
- Hold the tip of the glue stick as flat as possible on the bed and try to make nice clean/even lines when applying
- try to put as little as possible on while still covering the whole glass surface, the thinner you get it, the better it will perform and longer it will last
- for cleaning, just saturate a paper towel in isopropyl alcohol and wipe clean, wait to dry (like a minute or 2) before reapplying glue
You can use glue stick on PLA, but just know it won't let go when it cools like ABS and is a bitch to pry off.
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) July 15, 2015 02:42PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 135 |
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) July 15, 2015 04:44PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 19 |
Quote
691175002
Alright, finally got some reasonable prints. I am using the enclosure again, but with some tweaks to avoid melting the printer components. My heated bed is now set to 70c for all layers (previously 105c). I I have also turned the X and E steppers down to 0.15V (previously 0.35V) and will probably go even lower. I also leave the door ajar and periodically check the temperature to avoid going higher than 40c.
ABS at 0.2mm
There is still a bit more tweaking I can do in the slicer but I think I've basically hit the mechanical repeatability limit of the printer. There is quite a bit of slop in the bearings and compliance in general, but for a $270 printer I can't really complain.
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) July 15, 2015 04:53PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 135 |
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) July 15, 2015 07:00PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 95 |
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) July 15, 2015 07:54PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 430 |
Quote
msaeger
Has anyone used PETG filament with this machine? I want to try something that will won't soften from being in the car on a hot day and I have been reading PETG doesn't smell like ABS.
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) July 15, 2015 08:01PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 135 |
Quote
691175002
Alright, finally got some reasonable prints. I am using the enclosure again, but with some tweaks to avoid melting the printer components. My heated bed is now set to 70c for all layers (previously 105c). I I have also turned the X and E steppers down to 0.15V (previously 0.35V) and will probably go even lower. I also leave the door ajar and periodically check the temperature to avoid going higher than 40c.
ABS at 0.2mm
There is still a bit more tweaking I can do in the slicer but I think I've basically hit the mechanical repeatability limit of the printer. There is quite a bit of slop in the bearings and compliance in general, but for a $270 printer I can't really complain.
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) July 15, 2015 08:44PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 35 |
Quote
mike3
Hopefully they are still in business as they are still taking peoples money including mine... but havn't recieved a valid tracking on My Printer.. just label created...
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) July 15, 2015 09:00PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 3 |
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) July 15, 2015 09:39PM |
Registered: 10 years ago Posts: 335 |
Quote
go_gn
This looks great!... What color and brand filament is this?
Quote
mel0n
That looks great, but I found you only see artifacts on mostly flat vertical sections, so I think thats why I am not seeing any artifacting in that print.
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) July 15, 2015 09:45PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 171 |
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) July 15, 2015 09:52PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 135 |
Quote
691175002
I found that if there was even a hint of misalignment the provided bearings would immediately become very rough which leads to a wavy surface finish.
I installed the belts and threaded rods as the final step so that I could slide every axis by hand and ensure they were as smooth as possible. There aren't many options if your X axis is rough, but there is room to adjust Y and Z. My Y axis required a lot of work ( [forums.reprap.org] ).
I'll be honest here, I am genuinely surprised at how finicky the linear motion components are. I've used my fair share of chinese bearings in the past ( [www.cnczone.com] ) and they are generally quite robust.
I'm complaining a lot but realistically this kit is amazing for its price. If you can assemble it you will learn a lot.
What are you printing parts to build? I am curious what somebody with your technical skills has plannedQuote
691175002
I'm mostly using this guy to print components for a second printer so it won't have to last long.
Me either >.<Quote
markts
I hate to admit this, but I haven't touched the voltages to the motors. How is that affecting my prints?
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) July 15, 2015 10:10PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 81 |
Quote
mel0n
Quote
RedneckGeek
The longer M3 bolts that hold the extruder assembly together were too long. These are the bottom two that go through the fan, heatsink, and extruder and into the motor. The fan and everything was loose. No big deal though, just took about .7mm off the tips of the threaded ends and bolted it all back up.
I also epoxied the M5 nuts into the Z/X brackets and while I was doing that I dabbed a little epoxy on each end of the bearing holder sections because they were a bit loose and seemed like they slide right out. Just a little dab on each end to act as a stop.
A small challenge I've had is finding out where to actually change settings. I found lots of theory on changing the steps for the extruder but a bit of conflicting information about where to actually set it in the software. Eventually I found a thread somewhere that mentioned the string I needed and I was able to figure out the rest.
All in all I have had a good experience with this printer so far. I've only been using PLA for now figuring I'd master one medium before switching to another.
Welcome to the discussion! I reduced the quote to the points I am going to comment on (just to reduce scrolling on the forum).
My bolts were a tad too long as well, though I just wedged a couple small pieces of foam on both sides of the heat sink (fan/extruder) which actually turned out nice because it helps dampen vibration. All the add-ons for the mk7 expect the longer screws so everything is snug with add-ons such as the fan shroud I uploaded.
Epoxying those nuts would probably be a good idea, but I feel like there are some better, less permanent designs out there. when it comes time to disassemble your x-carriage (which you will have to do eventually for any variety of reasons) its much easier to just pop out the m5 nuts than to undo the whole threaded rod.
For changing settings, if you can, always change it in the firmware and keep a log of your changes for when you update firmware so you know what you changed and what the values were. This way, you can hook up any computer/print server/lcd to your printer and never have to mess with your calibration settings. However for best print quality you should have fine tuned your filament diameter and extrusion multiplier in your slicing software for each filament.
I also enjoyed PLA but came to the realization, that I need backup parts for my printer, and most of them just can't be PLA due to temps/durability. When I first switched to ABS I hated it. Hard to get it to stick, layer separation, its a lot more touchy about temp settings, having to use some sort of coating on the bed, the smell, etc. However after switching to ABS and discovering purple glue stick, I really don't want to go back to PLA (after switching back and forth a few times to be sure). Once you deal with your first PLA clogs, and get into longer prints, you will probably start running into the downsides of PLA. Plus there's the magic of the purple glue stick and ABS. It sticks so well you practically have to break the glass to remove it while its hot, but if you let it cool you will hear loud pops and cracks that almost sound like glass cracking and at that point the print is almost completely released from the bed and you can just pick it up without any prying. Its really amazing.
Some tips on glue stick for people curious/just starting out with it (these are just things I discovered on my own):
- Always let your heated bed cool down until the print pops off by itself, pulling off prints while hot will remove some of the glue stick and force you to clean/reapply
- You can get away with coating the bed once every 5-8 prints if you let the bed cool as described above
- You can touch up little spots that may have lost their glue to the print, but only expect to get 1 more print out of that coat, and its usually best to just redo it
- If touching up don't let your coat get too thick or it will peel from the glass when you remove your print (doesnt really matter though because you should only print 1-2 more times max on a touched up coating)
Steps for cleaning/coating with glue stick:
- raise your z axis up out of the way and home the x axis
- Hold the tip of the glue stick as flat as possible on the bed and try to make nice clean/even lines when applying
- try to put as little as possible on while still covering the whole glass surface, the thinner you get it, the better it will perform and longer it will last
- for cleaning, just saturate a paper towel in isopropyl alcohol and wipe clean, wait to dry (like a minute or 2) before reapplying glue
You can use glue stick on PLA, but just know it won't let go when it cools like ABS and is a bitch to pry off.
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) July 15, 2015 10:29PM |
Registered: 10 years ago Posts: 335 |
Quote
markts
I hate to admit this, but I haven't touched the voltages to the motors. How is that affecting my prints?
Quote
mel0n
What are you printing parts to build? I am curious what somebody with your technical skills has planned
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) July 15, 2015 10:33PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 135 |
Quote
691175002
Quote
markts
I hate to admit this, but I haven't touched the voltages to the motors. How is that affecting my prints?
It really doesn't change much. The higher your current, the more heat the motors will generate. If you go too low they will stop working but going too high has no consequences (except excess heat). Adjusting them for a heated enclosure is a balancing act because if the current is too high the motors will melt their mounts but if the current is too low they wont turn.
Quote
mel0n
What are you printing parts to build? I am curious what somebody with your technical skills has planned
I breifly started a blog but got busy and haven't updated it for a few months. I am going to direct drive an E3D Chimera and bolt it to the following linear stages: [www.everythingbends.com]
Its not a practical design, but it will be extremely high performance. The linear servos have 0.00001mm resolution (closed loop) and can reach roughly 30x the speed and acceleration of a typical 3d printer. I've made some progress and have pictures so eventually the blog will get updated.
The structural components will be aluminium but I need some printed odds and ends for cable management and such.
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) July 16, 2015 12:03AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 81 |
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) July 16, 2015 12:35AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 2 |
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) July 16, 2015 12:55AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 81 |
Quote
Roches
I got the acrylic kit last Thursday (July 10) after ordering it the Thursday before. Shipping was to Canada and was therefore insanely expensive and came with a surprise $66.60 customs fee on delivery. The category was "steel" so I think they were being merciful -- the customs fee for 20 lbs of "electronics" would probably have bee more than I paid for the kit. (There's only one Canadian reprap supplier, and individuals, small businesses, and even researchers don't get to benefit much from our free trade agreements.)
The mechanical part of the assembly went well. The guide wasn't entirely perfect, but I could figure things out. I was constantly grateful that I had digital calipers. Eventually I found a Torx T10 screwdriver bit that would fit the M3 bolts -- not all of them do -- and that made things easier too.
When I finished the wiring and plugged it in, nothing happened. Eventually I figured out that one of the stepper motor drivers was broken, and I've been able to drive the motors, but so far I can't run anything off the D8/D9/D10 12 V lines. Either the FETs overheat or nothing happens. I've resoldered the RAMPS board several times, replaced the D1 diode and the thermistor caps... even with external power, the power to the Arduino seems to fluctuate, and it freezes or resets often. I think all the problem is with the RAMPS board.
My RAMPS, as shipped, had the polyfuses and the FETs bent down, and there were visible signs of solder sputter on both sides, as well as incomplete joints (ones with a gap). The solder work was dark dull gray on most of the board.
Has anyone gotten similar problems? I've emailed Folgertech, no response yet.
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) July 16, 2015 03:27AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 276 |
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) July 16, 2015 08:50AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 135 |
Quote
therippa
Edit: part of the problem turned out to be a Y-axis bearing that popped out of its holder a little bit. Popped it back in place, but its still pretty uneven. I'm thinking about getting longer screws for the calibration.
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) July 16, 2015 09:10AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 35 |
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) July 16, 2015 11:28AM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 135 |
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) July 16, 2015 01:07PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 95 |
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) July 16, 2015 01:35PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 171 |
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) July 16, 2015 01:55PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 1 |
Re: Folger Tech 2020 i3 Printer Kit (Official Thread) July 16, 2015 02:12PM |
Registered: 8 years ago Posts: 135 |
Quote
jfitch
I received my printer kit yesterday. Looks like everything is there except the threaded rod. I'm sure they'll ship me the missing rod. I have already sent them a message. My question is does the type or size of the threaded rod matter for this printer. I have some threaded rod around the shop that I could probably cut down if needed. What is the recommended size rod and length?