Gave up on this fix after the nozzle burst. Was fortunate and the manufacturer replaced the endire hot end ---- this project - closed.by bstott - General
I would like to open the following for discussion and standardizing. To standardize the definition and use of the terms: 'Hot End' and 'Extruder'. Reason: The current use of Extruder when one is refering to the Hot End is inaccurate and confusing. In current use the term Extruder is switched back and forth between Extruder when refering to filament delivery rates and devices built or calibratedby bstott - RAMPS Electronics
??? I did a google to your Rambo ----- --- Who did you buy your board from? Do they have instructions? There are many tutorials -- and videos -----by bstott - General
RAMPS = Has an undersized Fuse and a poor chosen MOSFET. You will purchase a Fuse larger than 12A. I used a 14A fuse. You will also have to purchase a new MOSFET and replace. Once those two items are replaced you are good to go. If your bed worked for a while before and now doesn't --- It is still likely related to these two components. My heated bed did work for a few tests then didn't. So I foby bstott - General
???? Have you simply gone to the company's support or sales?by bstott - General
Be clear. You have to enable PID for using the auto tune M303 sequence. Why? Well those settings you were confused about? They are an example of the section you will create for PID to use. OR you simple use the example one you arbitrarily choose then edit it. What I mean--- You enable PID then compile/upload. You run the Auto Tune sequencing to the temperature you choose. The Auto Tune runs andby bstott - General
Well as for my hack together hot end. What started me on the journey was the riser broke because the hacker who I purchased this hot end from, who claimed engineering his product, designed and built the hack created the aluminum riser poorly. The problem was that the inner diameter (ID) was of one size and the outer diameter (OD) was too close to the ID so that when the mating attachment threadby bstott - General
disclaimer: I have not built this as a passive unit and it was not intended to be such. @Svdharma Silver heat sink epoxy? Does it withstand 300°C? What about the cost and sourcing? Is it cheap and easy to get in small quantities? @A2 Fan placement: The fan is within 5mm directly in front of the open fins and blows towards the solid back. This allows full 360° airflow around the SS riser. Airby bstott - General
For cost and use --- better to have option --- One or the other and not supply both. When you actively build or print you tend to standardize and not goof around with many things. You really have a lot of varying variables and do not just keep swapping stuff. Each thermistor or thermocouple require different electronics and firmware then also settings. So, not practical at the supplier stage eiby bstott - General
Thermistor installation suggestion ---- My little hack was always intended to be active - there was not a passive to it. Almost all is good. Hey, you seen anything like this? My hot end nozzle split. Know why? Ha, Ha... The same reason my riser broke. Some claimed better design ---- The interior diameter was too large with the exterior threads being too deep. This left the material thicknby bstott - General
Hi Eric, You really need to read what I wrote and try to understand what it says. I do have experience and the history around the forums. But, I do not want to detract from your project. I stood back and took another look at your item and I did see the thought into the fan and fins. I conceed that it is good. I never said it was not. I said it was SAME TYPE --- AND IT IS! I don't see a great deby bstott - General
Better choice ---> What and where?by bstott - General
Screw Thermistor? Just a quickie --- I've seen screw mount thermistors. Here's a picture. Would you be able to drill a set screw center and pass through the thermistor leads? Then silicone seal the device into the head? Hand tight? Oh, Eric --- I'm kinda beat today --- I'll respond to your hurt feelings. I know you are putting in effort - we all do. And I like the look. It is a jewel. Later, Bby bstott - General
@A2 Thanks. I will formulate a reply. Just too tired to think it... But, you could be thinking your air insulator --- Not when open air flow and active cooling with fan (CFM). I'll reply.... Just give a day. Brian.by bstott - General
Regarding Prometheus - On another thread -- A2 and I have had a short discussion about heat. It has come up that horizontal fins are not necessarily correct for the design of a passive hot end. I've reflected on this and have had experience with air cooled devices. A2 had already been discussing vertical heat flow so this brought to mind - fins radiating out from an item are generally intended tby bstott - General
@A2 Thanks for your inputs. I'll address this time without cut and paste --- I'm tired today. What may not be apparent from my implimentation of a MOSFET heatsink is: - The SS tubing is centered within the fins. This allows air clearance 360° around the riser. The benefit, or not, is that there is air flow all around the riser and the backstop of the heatsink will allow more air forced aroundby bstott - General
@A2 QuoteI would like to see you conduct a simple test, if it's not too much of a bother. smoking smiley Testing ---- Ha, ha.... after the catastrophy and the build I am not up to just tinkering. I'm not actually interested in developing this component but, to design and print of other objects. I want to use the machine not design machines. A2: For your test - You say to duct air using aluminby bstott - General
@ RP Iron Man & regpye - Those look like art. Nice. My SS hot end transmitts heat quite fast without a fan. But, with a fan - it is very manageable. I posted regarding the event to making mine - http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?1,322466by bstott - General
What do you do when money is short and catastrophy hits your 3D printer? BUILD YOUR OWN PARTS --- OF COURSE! About two weeks ago - End of Feb. 2014 - I was externally motivated to build/rebuild my hot end. Motivated by two things: 1) A component breaks. Some parts are just bad. Hint: the threads are supposed to be attached to the aluminum riser. AND 2) Motivated from a slipped out therby bstott - General
Wow! Looks Good! Almost like mine! ;-) I built my new hot end from bits two weeks ago - End of Feb. 2014 - Motivated from a slipped out thermistor having created a Hot, Bubbling, Smoking, PEEK Melt Down!!!! Looking forward to see the Prometheus Indiegogo! Brian Pittsburgh, PAby bstott - General
Here is The Trick Python Macro Button Toggle Link: http://hardwired.cc/?p=137 Not Mine! Using the code from the above link, which is copied below, I have installed the Fan ON/OFF Toggle Button Macro. I can not test now but, it should work on the machine. It does work in the Pronterface GUI. I have read the Pronterface Readme example about a toggle Macro. The code calls to Python and modules areby bstott - General
Weird motor motions often turn out to be a short in wiring - motors and/or endstops. Repeatedly check the endstops - M119 by repeat triggering the stops with your finger. Check through your motor connections and splices. Be sure your stepper drivers are adjusted with enough power for the motors to move.by bstott - General Mendel Topics
You mention RAMPS - Swap out the 11A fuse (polyswitch) for a 15A then the MOSFET is too weak also so you need to get something with a better choice of MOSFET - IRLB3036PBF. They are under sized for the heated bed and are over heating. Once you finish this swap the board will be cooler and your heater more reliable.by bstott - General Mendel Topics
@JHart96 ---> Your misery has company... Attached are the remnants of my newly built 3D printer's hotend fire. This miniature catastrophic event was yesterday (2/11/14). Now, do I re-design and build or purchase a new hotend and build? Either way it is redesign of mounting, building, machine calibrations, more testing.... Fire cause: A good functioning properly calibrated 'loose' thermistorby bstott - General Mendel Topics
I've been printing PLA for the last year at 220C and HBP @ 110C (stock MK6 Makerbot Hot End). A small fan on the upper Hot End to keep the PLA from swelling and jamming. I have printed PLA at a normal lower temp of 180C and it was OK but, I made a mistake one day. I hadn't changed or adjusted from the ABS start gcode. I still manually edit the generated gcode before I print. One day I forgot toby bstott - General
Did your suggestion work for the user?by bstott - Skeinforge