As I understand it, the extrusion temp could be around 245 degrees, so you might not need an all metal hotend at all. Please let us know how it compares to ABS Jonasby jonasl - Reprappers
Thanks for the help. I will try what you guys suggest, and let you know how it goes. Have any of you tried the Taluman Nylon 618, and have any experience with warping? Looks interesting as well. Maybe a printer where the Y axis dosent moved would be better, and easier to enclose. Any recommendations on this? I am going to be printing big parts for the next few years, so building a new printer wby jonasl - Reprappers
Hi Yvan I am using a makergeat hotend, 0,5mm nozzle. Layerheight is between 0,25 to 0,3mm Temp is 235 degrees Bedtemp is around 110 degrees My parts have a wall thickness of 2,2mm, so I set my extrusion width to 0,54 in Slic3r so that it does not create any infill on the walls, or it would take 3 times longer to print. sound about right? Jonasby jonasl - Reprappers
I made my own heated bed, but I dont have a heated chamber. Prints de-laminate sometimes from 10cm in the Z direction, sometimes even from 5-6cm. I dont have any pics, but if you emagine a tube, there would be a gab of sometimes up to 1mm on the wall going around 1/3 of the print I am just looking for ways to optimize it, perhaps a few different tweaks would go a long way? Jonasby jonasl - Reprappers
Hi Guys I have an oversized mendel max, and my prints are usually pretty big. From 160mmx160mmx150mm to something around 260mm x 260mm x 170mm. Most of the parts are thin walled with wall thickness of 2-3mm. I am using the printer to make prototypes for my designs, and the prototypes are used in testing before I make injection molds. Problem I am having is that with ABS they warp, and de-lamiby jonasl - Reprappers
I returned it as faulty, dont remember the name. Back to using the output directly from the printrboard. Jonasby jonasl - Reprappers
Thanks Nophead Should it matter that I place the load between positive on PSU and positive on SSR instead of between the ground? The datasheet says you can do both. Jonasby jonasl - Reprappers
When I print big parts (more than 100mm tall) for my prototyping I will usually paint it over quickly with Acetone or spray some acetone onto the part. I then apply some pressure on the top of the part while it dries. Most of my thin walled parts will not stick together unless I do this. It will ruin the surface finish though. Jonasby jonasl - Reprappers
Hi Everyone I never really liked the idea of running 250W for my heated bed through my printrboard, so I just got a SSR. DC DC, 40A. Connected the controlvoltage on the relay to the Heated bed output on the printrboard- tested it without the heated bed connected, and the LED came on when I turned it on in software. Connected the load between negative on SSR and powersupply. After 10 secs I couldby jonasl - Reprappers
D1 is already in place, are you saying that it has not been soldered yet? When I connect the external power supply, the blue light still comes on, so I would expect that its still powering the board. Jonasby jonasl - Reprappers
So I got printrboard working printing from the SD card. I can also disconnect from pronterface, but when I pull the USB, the printer stops. I though it was possible to completely disconnect? Any jumper for the USB power that needs to be connected? I tried googling, but couldnt find anything. Cheers JOnasby jonasl - Reprappers
I read somewhere that with Z lift, these small errors accumulate and will eventually mess up the Z movements. Would it make sense to use 1.5/3200 * 400 = 0.1875mm as layerheight on a 0,35mm hotend? instead of 0.2mm, just as an example. My leadscrews pitch is 1.5 Jonasby jonasl - General
Hi Andy Sure there are people using multi extruders, but I would guess its less than 1%. So perhaps they would find another solution. People are having enough problems getting a single extruder to print nicely, and taking the slicer problems out of the equation would help a great deal. I will be trying the 7.2B when my new Hotend arrived. Jonasby jonasl - General
I just tried 7.2B which some people have mentioned as stable. Where the 9.x took 45 min, the 7.2B took under a minute to slice one of my bigger projects. Anything I need to be aware of with the 7.2? On another note, Slic3r used to be attractive because of the speed and simplicity, but it seems like more and more features are added with every update. I would much prefer to have a simple and stabby jonasl - General
Hi Idolcrasher I would love to hear how it performs once you get it up and running! Jonasby jonasl - General
Thanks for the help! I ordered 2 makergear hotends... They did manage to get me a better shipping price. Chelsea. Too bad I just saw this now, I would loved to try it- perhaps for my next printer. Do you have any videos of it in action? In the mean time, reifsnyderb is taking care of my troubled J-Head, and in a very professional way. Thanksby jonasl - General
Hi Guys After having had only problems with my JHead, I have decided to get another hotend. Probably a MakerGear or a Budaschnozzle. What I just cant get over are the shipping priced from US. 43US$ or 60US$ for the cheapest shipping option. I am in Hong Kong and Denmark As a comparison, I just shipped a huge bag of printed mendelmax parts weighing more that a KG from HK to Denmark. 16US$.. tookby jonasl - General
Anyone knows how to convert a Jhead, latest version from 3mm fillament to 1.75mm. I read on the Wiki, but dont really understand it, and besides I am more looking for a place to get the parts, without having to replace the whole hotend. Cheers, Jonasby jonasl - Reprappers
I would love to share, but my products are not on the market yet. I did get into 3D printing purely because I had alot of parts / products that I needed a prototype of. Will post again when they are on the market. Jby jonasl - General
Thanks for the link and info. I will give it a shot. Jonasby jonasl - Reprappers
Thanks alot Nophead. That was easy. :-) So is there any overlap, or anything else I should be aware of? Jonasby jonasl - Reprappers
I am about to print a design that is basically a hollow cylinder and the wall thickness should be around 1.5mm-1.8mm. I would like it to print it with 100% infill by only printing with perimeters in a circular motion. If I set perimeter to say 5, then everything will be filled out this way as there is no space for regular infil. How can I calculate the wall thickness that will equal a fixed numbby jonasl - Reprappers
Leave it in Acetone over night. It wont dissolve, but it will crack, and will be alot easier to get out. Some people also use a torch and burn out the remains of the nossel.by jonasl - Reprappers
what version of Slic3r are you running? 8.3 has a bug where it dosent retract during Z moves.. what I heard. Jonasby jonasl - Reprappers
Thanks nophead I will try that! Hope its just because I didnt manage to clean it enough the first time. Is it safe to dump the PEEK in acetone as well? Or is that a bad idea? Jonasby jonasl - Reprappers
Thanks Akhlut! I have a spare J-Head that I bought for my brother. I compared the initial depth of the screw before I assembled it after the first clog. But this was obviously not enough. Does acetone dissolve PLA? Jonasby jonasl - Reprappers
Conductive ABS, saw that as well. Perhaps we will be able to print our own heated bed now. ;-)by jonasl - General
Hi everyone. After having my J-Head jam, I cleaned it up and it worked well again. Now after printing for about two hours I noticed some dark liquid dripping on the printbed. I though it was oil from the bearings, but when I removed it from the hotend it hardened up. Took the J-Head apart while still hot and it looks like this. I guess the PTFE liner was not tight enough, but not sure. I didby jonasl - Reprappers
Hi Akhlut. Thanks for the kind words. Honestly, I was quite surprised as well. One of the problems is that the heated bed is heavy. Its 300x300mm, and while I am still looking for some dibond, I am using MDF. Also, the heated platform is thick 3mm alu. so just the size alone will make it more than double the weight of a normal 200x200mm I played with the accelleration numbers in Marlin, and eby jonasl - Reprappers
Was looking into this as well. the hinge door on mine cracked at the bottom where the screw goes through. Would be great if you can share it here once its done :-) Jonasby jonasl - Reprappers