Hi guys, to start with many thanks, so glad I found this information, otherwise would have thrown newly purchased GLCD into the bin. Purchased from and his advice was "there is a potentiometer beside the LCD,it can adjust the contrast,please try,thanks." yes I had already tried this and makes very little difference. I said to myself, I mean what can you expect for $13.80 it was a gamble. I wby bruce356 - Controllers
@ A2, Honing a bore with a flex honing tool would not give me the result that I would be looking for as it would simply in the main follow the existing contour of the bore. Yes it would polish the bore but it would still have Hi spots and low spots like ocean waves. I have contacted E3D and they are sending another heat break that they say has a smooth consistent bore. Thanks again A2, I will leby bruce356 - General
Hi all, by the way how do you guys insulate the E3D against the negative effects of air from the bed cooling fans (I have one fan on each side of the extruder/hotend). At 100% fan speed I have a little difficulty maintaining a steady temperature it tends to fluctuate by up to 5 degrees C. At this stage I have just reduced fan speed to 35%, that solves the hot end fluctuations but does not providby bruce356 - General
@ vreihen Hi vreihen, I was not meaning to sound critical of MakersToolWorks regarding the E3D, my block only has one hole drilled all the way through for EPCOS thermistor (2.5mm) and it is right next to the nozzle, in fact looking into the bore of the thermistor hole one can see the tapped thread for the brass nozzle just breaking through, this gives very accurate temperature sensing. I agreeby bruce356 - General
Hi A2, regarding Johann's Extruder Force Sensor system, I will wait for him to develop it further, certainly the sensor is very cheap. Thank you for the offer to modify the Airtripper's direct drive bowden extruder but at this stage I will stick with the Maxtruder from MakersToolWorks. This mod would be a lot of work for you and I do appreciate your kindness but as you say I am going to have toby bruce356 - General
Hi A2, I have been reading the information by Airtripper, he has published some very interesting stuff in particular the "Extruder Force Sensor" this would be a brilliant inclusion in 3D printing. If an extruder approaches a certain pre determined load the printer would stop, send an audible alarm that something is wrong, the blockage in the extruder can be rectified and printing can continue witby bruce356 - General
@ vegasloki QUOTE "Another issue is that MTW states to use thermistor table 1 in Marlin which is a generic EPCOS 100k (big head). The E3D is drilled for the smaller Semitec 100k (pn 104GT-2) that is table 5 in Marlin." I know that E3D have been shipping the new smaller Semitec since November 2013, I bought mine from MakersToolWorks and they obviously still have old stock as I received my kit wiby bruce356 - General
Hi A2, generally the finish inside the 2mm bore is very good, just the score marks spoil this finish. I think I would be pushing it to try and lap these score marks out of existence without spending a lot of time and ending up with an oversize bore. I only have a mobile phone camera, I have attached a photo it is not brilliant but you can see what I am talking about. In the model drawing aboveby bruce356 - General
Hi A2, Thanks, I understand your comments about machining I am a fitter and turner by trade, the internal finish in my opinion should be smooth after using a reamer, when I run a small shaft (with a smooth tip no scratching) up and down inside the bore I can feel the bumps. The plug is about 4mm long or just a tad under and it would be difficult to see any markings as I had to heat the hot end tby bruce356 - General
Hi vegasloki, it is my first hot end, I thought all metal would be the best way to go. As posted above:- "I have just pulled the hot end apart and found the inside bore in the stainless steel part has a spiral groove all the way through (looks like a course thread but not as deep as a thread more like a deeper scratch mark), do they all have this, it seems to me that this could cause the filamenby bruce356 - General
Hi A2 thanks for the reply, this is a new MM2, hob is new and the area where your red arrow is, is the hob cutting away the pla because of a jam the hob keeps rotating but the filament does not move anymore. The ridges that you see along the bottom of PLA are the tooth marks made by the hob. I have just pulled the hot end apart and found the inside bore in the stainless steel part has a spiral gby bruce356 - General
Hi again, just printed with ABS and instead of jamming after 1.5 hrs with PLA it jammed after 2 hrs with ABS. Sorry but do not have much confidence in this hot end unless I got a bad one? Regards - bruceby bruce356 - General
Hi, just got my MM2 going using Maxtruder with ED3, filament 1.75 dia (actual = 1.7272)PLA black from MTW and 0.4 mm nozzle (hot end set to 190 deg. C first layer and 185 deg for remainder) and 0.25mm layer height. I have had no problems printing smaller objects, but when I tried to print the RepRapDiscount Full Graphic Smart controller case I ran into problems (Filament Jamming). I have readby bruce356 - General
They do NOT provide a Trial version and if you have "heard nothing but good things about it" you have not heard much. regards - bruceby bruce356 - General
Thanks thejollygrimreaper Regards - bruceby bruce356 - General
Hi nophead, Quote "This is why I maintain there needs to be a mould relief taper in all metal hot ends and no seams in the cold part for the filament to jam on. " Can you please explain / demonstrate what you mean by this, not sure where to put the taper or in which direction. Thanks - bruceby bruce356 - General
Hi Guys, I like both the Artifex / MendelMax 3 and the Lulzbot TAZ (I would purchase the TAZ over the Artifex/MM3 because its a far better deign but its too expensive). I like the bottom part of the Artifex/MM3 with power supply and electronics neatly packed away below the print bed and the 24v printer bed is all good. But from there up I think the TAZ is far superior. The MM3 has problems withby bruce356 - Extruded Aluminum Frames