V Ilirski Bistrici se naslednji petek zbirajo pionirji 3. industrijske revolucije. http://www.meetup.com/REPRAP-3D-printing-Ilirska-Bistrica-Meetup-Group/by ndujar - Slovenia RepRap Developer Group
Well, with all due respect, i must completely disagree with both your answers: QuoteTraumflug Here I guess the article is wrong. Since the time RepRap is recognized as being something serious, not just a fun project, we see these just-for-profit and non-ethic competitors, too. The advantage of being the actual inventor/developer becomes smaller and smaller and I could see it going negative. Negaby ndujar - General
Hi, I find myself in a similar situation as gman, in the sense of having joined this community recently and (curiously) using also Prusa I3... Personally, I find the RepRap project extraordinarily alive and kicking...perhaps too much...and that seems to be the source of some problems...There is such an effervescence of new ideas and proposals that the thing is getting a bit turmoilish, so it isby ndujar - General
Pozdravljeni, v zadnjem vikendu maja pripravljamo tečaj o 3D tiskalnikih. Tečaj je zamišljen kot uvod v 3D tiskalnike in tehnologije tiska v 3D-u. Udeleženci bodo sestavili 3D tiskalnik od začetka do konca in se bodo naučili, kako ga koristiti. Ciljna skupina: dizajneri, ahitekti, umetniki, mehaniki, obrtniki, in vsi, ki so pripravljeni začeti z 3D tiskom in hitro izdelavo prototipov. Ni potrebby ndujar - Slovenia RepRap Developer Group
Hi Mr Joshua, I'm very sorry to read about your extruder. This 3D printing business can get very annoying Reading again carefully through all the posts, I believe I might have found some explanation for your misfortune...if that is of any relief... This is one possible course of events: 1.-What if the wrong reading of the thermistor caused a very high temperature that... 2.- ...caused the PLAby ndujar - Controllers
You might also want to put the extruder a bit closer to the printing surface. It depends on the size of the nozzle, but surely 1mm is too much. Actually, the "correct" distance for the nozzle is such, that when it is not printing you can pass a piece of paper and feel the friction, but without blocking. This is an excellent tutorial: http://reprap.org/wiki/Leveling_the_Print_Bed Regarding theby ndujar - Controllers
Oh terrible news about your extruder...good thing to have friends around.. Regarding PLA, acetone (with dissolved ABS) does not work with it. ABS juice is only for ABS. A good solution mentioned here (http://reprap.org/wiki/Print_Troubleshooting_Pictorial_Guide#Bed_Adherence_insufficient) is blue painter's tape. It works... Happy printing!by ndujar - Controllers
Hi kilo, One possible cause for non-moving motors is a zero reading in the extruder thermistor, so if you say that you manage to heat the extruder that should be visible in the temperature control of your repetier/pronterface... Just to make sure, have you tried to upload the ramps test firmware? Is it here: http://reprap.org/wiki/File:RAMPSTestCode.pde Some times it happens that there are someby ndujar - RAMPS Electronics
So, summarizing and making a simple yet effective conclusion: First recommended option for a beginner's first motherboard: RAMPS 1.4 + (x1) IRL3803 MOSFET to have spare for the event of burning that of the hotbed... PROS (from lazzymonk and cdru): Very well documentedEasy to useModular so if you break one bit, just replace it. Available from many placesLow price CONS (from ndujar and noobmaby ndujar - Controllers
QuoteNoobMan // If your bed has low resistance e.g. .6 ohm and throws the fuse you can duty cycle it to reduce the // average current. The value should be an integer and the heat bed will be turned on for 1 interval of // HEATER_BED_DUTY_CYCLE_DIVIDER intervals. //#define HEATER_BED_DUTY_CYCLE_DIVIDER 4 Dunno how this is computed but looks like something i would stay away from, instead why not uby ndujar - Controllers
Aha NoobMan, so basically, if I follow your reasoning, the problems I had with my crispy MOSFETs could have been avoided by simply editing the line in my marlin that enables PID for the bed?: // Bed Temperature Control // Select PID or bang-bang with PIDTEMPBED. If bang-bang, BED_LIMIT_SWITCHING will enable hysteresis // // Uncomment this to enable PID on the bed. It uses the same frequency PWMby ndujar - Controllers
haha! That's the spirit!! You're welcome!by ndujar - RAMPS Electronics
Excellent argumentation NoobMan. Thank you very much...I didn't know all those things... Next time I will be more careful linking my sources... And just to make it clear: I totally believe RAMPS to be the best first motherboard Happy printing!by ndujar - Controllers
Maybe you can try the test code for RAMPS here: http://reprap.org/wiki/File:RAMPSTestCode.pde It might give you some hints as it is easier to understand than Marlin...by ndujar - RAMPS Electronics
Hmmm..well, then firmware it is... In my (fully functional) RAMPS 1.4 the polymeter measures 5.6Kohm between every pair of pins (T0, T1 and T2). If in your case you have 3 ohm then you're right, there is short somewhere...my apologies... I'm sorry about that, but with the provided information I was unable to discard the easiest solution (i.e. replacing the thermistor...). Anyway, assuming thatby ndujar - RAMPS Electronics
Yes, I do have experience in writing firmware and I must say that it is bad...bad, bad...eventually you always end up forgetting something and you cannot be sure whether it was the firmware or the hardware... I strongly reccomend you to make the simple test of switching the hotbed pins into the T0, just to make sure...by ndujar - RAMPS Electronics
It is absolutely possible. Just take the connector off the T0 and put it in the T2...However, then you will have to fiddle a little with the firmware, and that will only lead you to more trouble... With the information you have provided, I still believe that the faulty device might be the thermistor, not the RAMPS. To definitely diagnose that, you can do two simple things: Measure the resistivby ndujar - RAMPS Electronics
Quotewaitaki Quotendujar Hmmmm..my only advice against RAMPS is how it deals with its MOSFETS...it has a flaw in design that makes them enter in resonance with the hotbed and, unless they are quite powerful, they tend to fry: [*] [*] [*] I have one myself and got it burnt in the first day...actually is just a matter of luck whether your provider has assembled the correct type of MOSFET or nby ndujar - Controllers
Hehe..no worries..is part of the painful process... Layer height is controlled in the Slicer. If you have Repetier it is the second menu, under the button of "configure". Then Slicer pops up and you can see it in the first menu where it says "Print settings". If you have Pronterface or any other you will have to find the Slicer, open it and change the configuration... Happy printing!by ndujar - Controllers
I have it set at 100C, because of the warping that you mention, but the truth is that I was doing the temperature control manually with a switch because of the fried MOSFET of my RAMPS.. Fortunately, now I finally have my Melzi running, so as soon as I have the time I will get back to it.. Regarding your temperature control, I am not quite sure the rational is correct. The curve of the thermistoby ndujar - Controllers
Hi thanks for the support! I mostly have trouble with the hotbed. In the beginning my board was a RAMPS1.4 that got the hotbed controller MOSFET fried and now I am trying with this Melzi. The theory (and the hard experience) is that if the bed is not warm enough, then the adherence is crap. I have tried many things (ABS juice made out of ABS and acetone, sugar in water,...) but still because ofby ndujar - Controllers
OOOH! Congratulations...is actually very good......is it PLA or ABS? I am having a terrible time with ABS... Maybe you want to have a look at this: http://reprap.org/wiki/Print_Troubleshooting_Pictorial_Guide Your "wobbliness" problem is, unfortunately, not listed but it might be caused by excessive pressure in the exit of the nozzle. I would try to calibrate the extruder motor to make sure itby ndujar - Controllers
Well, broken or not, now it works! Maybe is not perfect, but buying another piece of hardware to fix something that I will rarely touch again is a little disproportionate no? In my case the fuses got messed up because all of the junk I tried to upload it with (melzi, gen7, mighty, bobuino,...and many others that I don't remember now). The truth is that the first few attempts worked just fine andby ndujar - Sanguino(lolu)
Hi, The perimeter line around is called skirt. You can configure it in Slicer and yes, I also think it serves the purposes of pre-testing adherence and other stuff. Regarding the wiggliness, it might be (but i'm not sure) that the layer is too high. It should be a number slightly smaller than the nozzle size (mine is 0.3 and my layers are 0.25). Happy printing!by ndujar - Controllers
Hi Bas89, Sorry..I didn't quite understand..what is the resistivity of your thermistors? It should be something around 100Kohm. If it is zero what is faulty then is the thermistor.by ndujar - RAMPS Electronics
Hi Joguino, I had exactly the same problem..until yesterday... Maybe this thread can be of help to you: http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?13,312562,320852#msg-320852 As you will see, the problem was with a Melzi, but I am quite sure in your case the problem roots in the same chip: the evil atmega1284p!! This little nasty microcontroller is quite fuzzy about dealing with the Arduino IDE because tby ndujar - Sanguino(lolu)
Hmmmm..my only advice against RAMPS is how it deals with its MOSFETS...it has a flaw in design that makes them enter in resonance with the hotbed and, unless they are quite powerful, they tend to fry: I have one myself and got it burnt in the first day...actually is just a matter of luck whether your provider has assembled the correct type of MOSFET or not. So, just for precaution, I would wby ndujar - Controllers
Hi Mr Joshua, Congratulations! A little step forward but when looking back..so much knowledge gained! Anyway...I still haven't fixed my own problems but I think I can help with yours.. After endless hours of research and trial and error I have figured out that the myriad of firmwares that exist can basically group into three: Sprinter development Official reprap.org Marlin development repraPby ndujar - Controllers
Hi Mr Joshua, I am also experiencing some trouble dealing with an rp3D.com Melzi board. I also have managed to upload the firmware, although I tried with Marlin...with similar results as you. Right now I am stuck into trying to upload the firmware (again), which is something i did two days ago but now I'm unable to replicate. As soon as I get somewhere I will upload through this thread. By noby ndujar - Controllers
To me it looks like you MOSFETs got fried. Maybe you want to have a look at this article: However, I tried their proposed solution (putting a N4001 diode in antiparallel) and still got problems also in a RAMPS 1.4. TOMMM's solution I didn't try yet, but seems quite in the line of the article above and makes sense. There is another more popular solution (although less elegant in terms of electrby ndujar - General