Quoteo_lampe It seems, you can solve the problem by raising the y-tower endstop or shorten ( screw in) the endstop adjuster screw by 1-2mm. Do you run "M502 & M500" commands every time you start a print? You could as well switch off the EEprom, because it doesn´t have any added value this way... I´d run M502 only when I´ve flashed a new firmware. -Olaf PS: How come, we don´t find any documenby jculver09 - Delta Machines
Quotekengineer The stuff prints better than anything I have ever used.... the best you have ever squirted out your nozzle. lawl.... Yes, it is great and having a local source that is not $50/kg is very nice. Microcenter here has them for $15 every day all day, and on Amazon it is $17.99 with free shipping. Not sure on others experience but I have used same temperatures for all colors of inlandby jculver09 - General
Quotecman8 When I put in M503 command, how do I know if m666 took effect? Is it in the z home offset line? As I have not much experience with M503, google of the reprap wiki brought up sounds like it should report back what the current settings are, are you using pronterface? I ask because I began using repetier until i got fed up with how the command interface worked, once I switched to pronby jculver09 - Delta Machines
Others have solved this with small felt circles, or more complex systems used print parts as the friction surfaces and keep the magnets at exactly a minute gap. Look up Haydn Huntley's magnetic rods ends on Google for a great example.by jculver09 - Delta Machines
Those look even more fun to step on than Legosby jculver09 - Reprappers
I printed a few on my Folger Tech Delta. At .1mm layer height I am happy with the results, but even printing a dozen or more blocks at a time the time investment wouldn't be worth it for me if I were printing a large set. Have you checked the price of legos in the stores in your area? I only needed about 10 pieces so buying a $20 set to get them is absolutely not cost effective, but that was thby jculver09 - Reprappers
QuoteKoenig Quotesungod3k EEPROM disabled? Nope, as I wrote, I used M666 (endstops), M206 (Z-hight) and M665 (deltaradius) for bed-level calibration. Or do you mean I have to disable it for it to work? But then I would loose my bed-calibration, and the ability to use the M666 to calibrate it again...? I am not that great with the software so I will try to explain best I can. The EEPROM is a wby jculver09 - Reprappers
+1 on blue painters tape. This stuff works well for me (3m brand only for me though) I use it on both hot and cold bed. On my delta the nozzle is .4mm, first layer height is .35mm, and first layer width is 200%. I normally print with bed at 40 and have 0 issues getting prints to stick, I think 70 might be a little high though I have never tried it with pla. Be careful adding a fan, if you turby jculver09 - Reprappers
QuoteKoenig What I gather from this thread is that the extruder included in this kit is no good so I'm thinking of getting an "all metal" extruder, like this: Would that be a good choice or does anyone have a better recommendation? Quotematthew900 Well we finally got everything together, uploaded the 20 tooth firmware with the Arduino program, but we're getting an error in Pronterface. We getby jculver09 - Delta Machines
I ran into the same issue. I had to increase this parameter from the original setting so I could follow the steps in the manual and get a correct value. I think I added 10mm to the original setting but you only need to add enough to get you "below" the bed, and was able to find my z home this way using the steps in the manual. I am at work, if you need more information I can look into my own coby jculver09 - Reprappers
Quotegreggo which way does the heat break go? does the PTFE liner side face away or towards the nozzle? Mine originally disasembled with liner down and the metal chamfered end up (made sense to me as it would help to guide filament in). I chose to leave it this way as I only plan to print PLA before I will be upgrading to an e3d v6 sometime in the future. I just had it apart the other day and thby jculver09 - Delta Machines
While I was building I was not happy with the feel, so I used wd40 and worked the carriages back and forth to work it in, this freed up lots of gunk from the manufacturer no doubt. After working them until they were smooth enough the carriage slides when tilted 30 degrees, lubed them with 5w30 motor oil (because it is what i had laying around at the time) and finished the build. I have since switby jculver09 - Reprappers
QuoteWittmason I just posted some adjustable spool holder arms for our Kossel made from the "Spool holder that uses Emmet's gear bearing". Adjustable spool holder arms for Emmet's gear bearing spool holder Thank You for these, I hadnt seen that gear bearing spool holder before, and these will make it easy to use. Also, your finished parts look really clean, what kind of post processing stepsby jculver09 - Delta Machines
I found this carriage loader on thingiverse, perhaps it could be useful.by jculver09 - Delta Machines
I have had great experience with my kit. Be ready for upgrades, at the time I bought mine it was the cheapest kit on the market and unfortunately some of the parts are indicative of that (my ramps was smashed but worked after I fixed all the pins, my printed parts were not very good, my rails were rough but smoothed with a few hours of cleaning . So far I have replaced the stock extruder with aby jculver09 - Reprappers
QuoteSven.L I've reached now page 30 of this interesting thread. What a reading! Too much to remember everything. But here are my questions: 1 Has anyone here replaced those aluminum parts (as seen in the photo below) and the extruder poles with longer ones, in order to achieve a larger printing area? I am wondering, if it is possible to get a printing area, that way, of 50 cm or even larger onby jculver09 - Delta Machines
I would try moving your drivers around on the ramps board. Mine came with 1 bad driver (luckily they included a spare) and this is what mine did, except only 1 axis wouldn't work. Have you set the voltages on your drivers yet?by jculver09 - Reprappers
Quoteseasidenj I purchased the kossel kit a while back and am stumped! Every thing is fine until I get to step 15 in the configuration manual. Using the command G1 Yxx to find the print radius the print head moves to the back not to the front unless I input a negative number. When I try the auto level command or a test print the print head goes all over and gets tangled up. I triple checked all mby jculver09 - Reprappers
QuoteDeguello This is designed to lubricate: be careful what kind of "gun oil" you are buying, all are not created equal. I found your image by searching "gun oil" in google, but my corporate internet connection will not allow me to visit the page, something about prohibited content. Hopefully I don't get any emails from our IT department about the nature of websites I am trying to visit .by jculver09 - Delta Machines
Quotethevisad Quotejculver09 See this, it was four posts up and contains a fair amount of information you are asking for Lol reading is fundamental Sorry, jprochnow, reading this now I realize how curt I was and this was not my intention. Please take advantage of the search function, and I would highly recommend reading the entire thread (yes I know, 27 pages is a lot, but it helped me immeby jculver09 - Delta Machines
Quoterotten_carrot Quotejculver09 Quoterotten_carrot I realise that it has been discussed a couple of times before but I'm still somewhat undecided in my mind as to whether to cut my rods to 250mm centre hole to centre hole or if the consensus is to cut the carbon fibre itself to 250mm? Anyone's experience/opinions on this specific detail would be gratefully received - even if it is a differentby jculver09 - Delta Machines
Quoterotten_carrot I realise that it has been discussed a couple of times before but I'm still somewhat undecided in my mind as to whether to cut my rods to 250mm centre hole to centre hole or if the consensus is to cut the carbon fibre itself to 250mm? Anyone's experience/opinions on this specific detail would be gratefully received - even if it is a different length that is suggested It is aby jculver09 - Delta Machines
Quotethevisad Something weird I just noticed and probably would not have until I started investigating why my printer is not exactly precise. All of my prints have been off by a minute amount and when I was tweaking the firmware for the drv8825 I found this line below. When you do the math, 189/2.25 = 84, not 80 which it should be for 1/16 on a 20 tooth pulley gt2 belt or 160 for 1/32. When I corby jculver09 - Delta Machines
Quotenewline I heard back from Derek @ robotdigg... "I am afraid we use a corner idler." I haven't heard back yet on where to get them or how much. Sure wish the robotdigg web store had said that this was required, or at least had a picture that showed it In that image it looks as though the idler rides on bearings which I assume are pressed into the aluminum (I see no other way of affixing tby jculver09 - Delta Machines
Quotebluesmike stops printing?! Im trying to print a small file. I had one successful print today. After that I tried one job from the SD card and it started but the LCD dimmed out, the fan slowed and it hung never to print the job. The bed and hotend did get up to temp. I thought maybe it was the LCD/SD causing the issue so I disconnected it. So I plugged the USB back in and tried again. Three jby jculver09 - Delta Machines
Wow... Reading your post just made me realize how little thought I gave this part of the process. If I won't be there the whole time I plug my printer in to the wall using a surge protector and a lighting timer. I set the timer 1 hr longer than my planned print time so that all power is off after the print. I set my end gcode to shutoff heaters and home and that is it. No purging or anything.by jculver09 - General
Quotertideas Quotethevisad Not really, I have gotten the parts list down to about 285$ now for the entire printer. Once you know where to go, you can order all the parts very quickly. Care to share where do you go? Linear rails? Better motors? Extrusions? AliExpress? Dont forget to factor in your TIME for doing all of that. I personally value my time at $40 an hour if its work hours, and at $100by jculver09 - Delta Machines
QuoteFlish Did anybody order the 20x04 LCD screen/SD reader, and or have a problem with it? I tried to hook up my lcd screen and couldnt get it to work... After messing around with the firmware for like days I discovered the plug in connectors on the adapter board, that plugs into the ramps -were soldered in upsidedown. As I was about to de-solder then resolder them the correct way, I realizeby jculver09 - Delta Machines
Quotethevisad Quotejculver09 Quotevorpal I didnt have alot of success with the auto calibration, to many variations in the results i think there is to much slack in the server arm. Also switched to a version of marlin that supports the m666 m665 command with better success , though still not accurate enough. ( for me) I tried to convert to the RC Marlin as well. Got it almsot all the way there,by jculver09 - Delta Machines
Quotevorpal I didnt have alot of success with the auto calibration, to many variations in the results i think there is to much slack in the server arm. Also switched to a version of marlin that supports the m666 m665 command with better success , though still not accurate enough. ( for me) I tried to convert to the RC Marlin as well. Got it almsot all the way there, switches all worked, and itby jculver09 - Delta Machines