No worries about coming off as rude. You're helping me, and I appreciate it very much. I would be asking the same questions if I were in your shoes. To answer the responses, let me see if I can do it inline: "Yes that would be the steps/mm for that setup. Lead is equal to pitch when there is only one helical screw wrapped around the rod. Lead screws us multiple helical screws warped around thby usslindstrom - Mechanics
Understood. Thanks for the insight. I do have a couple delta's already - one kit that was built, and another Flux machine. As far as speed is concerned, I see no real improvement between my cartesians and their delta brothers - when/if I get to bleeding nose speeds, the quality suffers beyond belief. I've basically set the print speeds relatively the same across all my printers. That being sby usslindstrom - Mechanics
Thanks for responding. Yes, I think I understand the math: NEMA 23 Specs: Part No.: 57BYGH627 Frame Size: NEMA23 Step Angle: 1.8 degree Voltage: 3.0V Current: 3.0 A/phase Resistance: 1.0Ohm/phase Inductance:by usslindstrom - Mechanics
RepRap forum, I'm in the middle of spec'ing out parts for a home built delta. I want to expiriment with lead screws, knowing full well they will be much slower than their belted brothers, plus added challenges of backlash. I'm going to explore cnc and other items with this build, basically making a beast of a machine, in a delta format. But, therein lies the question. Steps per mm are easy tby usslindstrom - Mechanics
Just shot up to the latest marlin RC. My Delta printer (Ramps 1.4) no longer seems to have either M666 or G29. It does have support for the BLTouch, so it's definitely modern. Do I have to do anything to enable those commands? I thought it may be related to the EEPROM not being enabled, but there was no change after enabling that feature.by usslindstrom - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
I understand the train of thought that these scenarios are bad, and am definitely not defending it. I do, however, see the flip side as well, brought up by "amigob". My first 3d printer, was an Ebay purchase of a DaVinci 1.0. Unfortunately, those things had quite a few flaws in the beginning, one of which being very weak plastic bearing holders for the X axis rods. Of course, mine were brokenby usslindstrom - General
I agree... On my statements above, had I gone with genuine, I may not have had the same issues I described. Even though the Ebay stuff is quite literally a fraction of the cost, it definitely shows in the quality of build. The genuine e3d v6 has definitely shed light to this concept as well. (Just as I'm sure a genuine j-head would as well). That being said, you mentioned the delta is on theby usslindstrom - General
I'm not the source of info here, but my experiences fall inline with what you were describing. MANY iterations of extruder combos on my i3, both bowden and direct feed. I do prefer direct feed myself, due the oozing of the nozzle (I'm currently on a dual-extrusion build on the thing) - but there in lies the rub, where the weight of the direct feed dual-extruder makes me print quite a bit slowerby usslindstrom - General
It appears I'm horrible in closing my questions out. I very much appreciate the assistance, this solved the issue.by usslindstrom - General
That did it. Thanks. Sorry for the late reply.by usslindstrom - General
Apologies for the VERY basic question. I have an i3 that I upgraded to dual extrusion. It works perfect, except the nozzles can't reach the full size of the X axis now. Meaning, at X MIN, Extruder # 2 can't reach the edge of the build platform (Extruder # 1 is at 0,0) Likewise, at X MAX, Extruder #1 has the same problem. The MAX issue isn't a problem, but I'd really like to fix the MIN one.by usslindstrom - General
3D Printer Experts, I've got a Kossel mini up and running with Marlin firmware. In an attempt to get it autocalibrated, it's looking as though the Z probe lift between probes needs to come up a bit more, since it's dragging the probe along the glass, and causing all sorts of craptastic fun. Reading a ton of other forums, it appears I need to target this in configuration.h: "#define Z_RAISE_BEby usslindstrom - General
Disregard. I did some exploration testing - and your suggestions got me to where I needed to go. Thanks! It's nice having a pressure button instead of the tiny target of a lever button after removing the metal piece.by usslindstrom - General
Thanks for the info. If possible, I need a nudge. I've attached a pic with two options. I really like the LED that the standard endstop gives you, so if possible, I'd like to melt those wires together using the new button. If this isn't an option, then would the pinouts I have identified on the RAMPS board be correct? Thanks for the assistance.by usslindstrom - General
3d printer experts, I've got an auto level probe, that I'd like to change the switch. It's using a standard no/nc/common three pin lever switch. I'd like to change this out, too a sweet one pressure one that only has two contacts. One that just makes the circuit when depressed. Unfortunately, all diagrams in dealing with the ramps board, all show the three pin connection, so I'm not sureby usslindstrom - General
That was it guys. Thanks! Looks like a combination of all the above items - finally made it so the Y stopped slipping.by usslindstrom - General
Will do when I get back home to make the adjustment. Thanks for the input.by usslindstrom - General
Took both your guys' suggestions. Re-adjusted the pots according to VRef, and slowed down the traverse speed of everything. I was right in my assumption that moves were set at 100mm/s for non prints... I brought that down to 60. For the VRef, using the method where you turn them all the way down, then creep them up until the motor is able to move; This put the vref hovering about 400 or so oby usslindstrom - General
Just saw your post "TheJones" - that's another option as well. Thanks for the feedback. I believe my non-printing movement speeds are 100mm/s <-- Don't quote me on this, since I'm not currently in front of the unit, but I believe this is what it was set at. Definitely worth a shot to slow it down to 60 or even lower.by usslindstrom - General
Interesting note for the heat sink thought process you just mentioned. I didn't know that about these chips, that the heat dissipation is actually more important under vice above. I figured they were just like any standard passive-cooling required setup. - Thanks for that info. It shouldn't have much affect though, and I imagine the heat sinks are helping though. But I'm more than willing tby usslindstrom - General
*Forgot to mention another potential issue and what I've done to check. Stepper drivers are overheating. They do not get too hot to touch, but to be safe, they also have their own little heat-sinks installed w/thermal tape. I also have a fan blowing directly on them all.by usslindstrom - General
3d Printer Experts, I've been having some nasty Y Axis slipping for the last couple of weeks. During a print, the printer seems to hiccup on the bed movement, and ends up ruining everything. I've been going over the forums here for quite a while, and have come across many others with similar issues such as this. The printer in question is a Prusa i3, w/Arduino/RAMPS 1.4. Based on the other fby usslindstrom - General
My issue here appears to have been corrected. I updated to build c6f8673690, and the issue no longer appears. It does look like it was some sort of bug. Thanks.by usslindstrom - General
Wow, Thanks for this. Outstanding. I apologize though, trying to depict what you're showing me... Just dropping that block of code into the .cpp causes compiling errors, solely due to the variables not being defined I'd imagine. //================================= Marlin_main.cpp:6351:1: error: 'real_z' does not name a type real_z = float(st_get_position(Z_AXIS))/axis_steps_per_unit; //getby usslindstrom - General
All, thanks for whatever help you can provide. I've got a Prusa i3, which had everything working great in regards to auto-leveling. On a latest tweak upload, to set numbers for calibration, it appears that I've woken the beast. Now, just before the unit starts to auto-level, or even right before a print - The Z axis actually raises by about 30mm, and in the case of printing it starts to push pby usslindstrom - General
I'd disagree with your washer/dryer comment. Me purchasing a $300 washing machine is just as reliable as the $1000 + one. It may have more features, but reliability is key, even in the cheaper model. Consumers won't grab hold unless it's cheap, I guarantee it. And the only cheap ones are the DIYers, which is great, but a hindrance to mass adoption. On top of price, it also has to be simple.by usslindstrom - General
Haha... unfortunately, it's Repetier host already. I went back to the drawing board based off your suggestions Laopa. My calibration numbers are spot on. 100mm travel in all axis directions literally makes 100mm, even in extrusion. So, the only thing it could be left over is speed I started thinking. First, I read up on other systems like the utilimaker that have Bowden setups, and how thby usslindstrom - General
Thanks for the words of encouragement... but unfortunately I have to disagree with you that it's getting better. The previous pic didn't do it justice. I've uploaded some new ones. In order to make the spikes virtually dissapear, I brought the flow rate all the way down to 60%... this completely demolishes the rest of the cube. Plus, if you look closely, you can see the points are still presby usslindstrom - General
Haha. Nice catch on the pagoda comments. I stepped down 2% at a time, until believe it or not, I hit 60% flow rate. The spikes all but vanished finally, but the lack of plastic made the surfaces pretty bad. *attached. Tons of gaps on the top especially. So, it's probably a combination of flow rate and something else. For The Outer perimiter, I've Been using 20mm/s. Side point, thisby usslindstrom - General
^ Editud fur spellunby usslindstrom - General