Are your belts nice and tight? With loose belts that vibrate/ bad vibrations there are horizontal lines like that, albeit much much less distinct.by 1nxtmonster - Printing
Yeah sure the printer's home is at 0,200 and here is a picture of my endstops.by 1nxtmonster - General
Wow, of course, how could I have forgotten. You need the development version for it to work. Download it from the marlin github.by 1nxtmonster - General
I forget exactly what I changed to resolve it (sorry!) but I will attach my configuration.h file and you can look through it if you want.by 1nxtmonster - General
I had that issue, I believe that I did this to fix it: #define X_MAX_POS 203 #define X_MIN_POS -3 #define Y_MAX_POS 203 #define Y_MIN_POS -3 #define Z_MAX_POS 180 #define Z_MIN_POS 0 I can drag up my config.h file if you wantby 1nxtmonster - General
I have no clue why setting the Max and Min to the same value does the trick, but it did it for me. I'd recommend giving it a try.by 1nxtmonster - General
Quotetamigr Hi, i'm having the same problem when I try the y homing button. Can you explain how you solved it? I did what was suggested by RepRot in this thread:by 1nxtmonster - RAMPS Electronics
I had the same problems trying to set up my max endstops on hbot, these are the settings I changed to fix it (quoting RepRot's helpful post in this thread (http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?397,395289,395289): QuoteRepRot I have all the endstops enabled with my Openbeam coreXY. From what I can remember.... Apart from the settings in Configuration.h e.g. Line 337 - have the following inactive eby 1nxtmonster - General
I second what frankvdh said, make sure the idler tension is high and also try increasing the temperature to make the filament easier to extrude.by 1nxtmonster - Printing
Turning down the bridge flow to 70% solved the issue. All solid infill is now as it should be. Thanksby 1nxtmonster - Printing
I switched to 5mm rod on my robo and it totally got rid of my ribbing. I replaced the coupler with some vinyl tube and altogether it cost like $5. There a thread over in the mods and upgrades sections at the robo forum with some more info.by 1nxtmonster - Printing
My bridge flow rate was set to 1, so I will try changing it to 60%. Some more details: PLA, 200C No heated bed speed: 40 mm/sby 1nxtmonster - Printing
Have you tried reading through this thread?by 1nxtmonster - Printing
I am seeing signs of over extrusion on solid infill that is over a layer of infill. No, the printer is not actually over extruding (extrudes 50mm of filament when it is told to extrude 50mm of filament) but I cannot seem to correct this. Turning down the extrusion rate whilst it is on this layer to 60% will fix the issue, but since the printer is not over extruding there should be another cause.by 1nxtmonster - Printing
On a larger cube the banding occurred at a finer interval. I am starting to think that it is not a z axis issue but an extrusion issue. Edit: SOLVED! It turned out to be an extrusion issue after all. After tightening the idler on the extruder the problem went away.by 1nxtmonster - Printing
Thanks for the tips! I think I can rule some of those out because I don't have a heated bed, there is no auto level enabled, and my bed is glued down to the xy carriage (hbot) I printed the cube at .1mm layer height, and the bands are twice as frequent. The bands are more prevalent in the corners so I am wondering if this could be caused (or at least accentuated) by the over extrusion that occuby 1nxtmonster - Printing
QuoteMegaRocketPenguin Anyone ever get the HatchBox stuff off of amazon? It has prime, and decent cost too... Was looking at the stuff on makergeeks, really like the price + free shipping, but they don't accept paypal The hatchbox stuff is the only filament I print with anymore. I haven't had a single jam and the colors look fantastic.by 1nxtmonster - General
I had the same problem trying to print ninjaflex. I took apart a few pens until I found one with an ink tube with an ID of approx 2mm (filament should slide through nicely). Then, I pushed it down into the filament hole right up to the hot end (gregs wade accessible extruder), and cut a window where the hobbled bolt would grab. This tube supported the filament the whole way down to the hot end, wby 1nxtmonster - Printing
The bands are about 1mm apart. I will try printing with a different layer height to determine if it is a mechanical issue (occurs every 1 mm) or a software/slicer issue (occurs every 5 layers).by 1nxtmonster - Printing
Yes, and my layer height (.2mm) checks out. It says there is no error at that height.by 1nxtmonster - Printing
I got my reprap printing yesterday, and I am noticing a very fine z banding on my prints, but they are not caused by the leadscrew (leadscrew is 2mm pitch, the bands occur at a much finer interval). Any ideas? The extruder isn't slipping or missing steps that I know of. The picture is of a 15mm calibration cube.by 1nxtmonster - Printing
I turned down the potentiometer so that the voltage from the second pin to the potentiometer head was around 175mV. The motors are much cooler and quiteter and seem to be working now. Thanksby 1nxtmonster - General
I am building an h-bot printer, and am having issues getting the y axis to home. The endstops are normally open and the y endstop is a max endstop. When i press the button to home the y axis in repetier-host, all that the y axis does is move 10mm in the opposite direction of home. Edit After poking around lots in the firmware, I was able to resolve this issue. However now when the Y axis homes,by 1nxtmonster - RAMPS Electronics
These are the motors I am using:by 1nxtmonster - General
I ended up going with a 30A atx psu, so that of I want to add a heated bed or another extruder someday I can. The power supply works, and I have built the printer to the point that I could start moving the x and y from repetier-host. With everything connected, the nema14 stepper get extremely hot and they are quite loud when moved. I have turned down the potentiometers but to no avail. Any suggby 1nxtmonster - General
Thank you. I will use a 15A power supply to be safe.by 1nxtmonster - General
For a printer with no heat-bed, 2x NEMA 17 steppers, 2x nema14 steppers, an extruder, and some fans, would a 10A power supply such as this one work?: The nema14 are 500ma each and the nema 17 are 1.7A each. A hot end with 40 watt 12v cartridge heater uses 5 amps, so that is 9.4A if I did the math right. Does that leave enough margin to use a 10 amp supply?by 1nxtmonster - General
The friction is fine and it shouldn't misalign on it's own once aligned. But my moving the bed by hand could misalign it some. I agree with you that when it homes it will fix the alignment, but what I'm concerned about is how it will fix it. Would the stepper miss a step before belts slip and parts come loose?by 1nxtmonster - RAMPS Electronics
The reason I want both endstops to be activated is so that printer is 'squared off'. If one side is further than the other then the carriages won't be perpendicular to each other and prints will go all screwy. By having two endstops, one for each side, I can assure that the carriages will be perpendicular. Marlin doesn't support two minimum endstops (or at least i couldn't find anything to say otby 1nxtmonster - RAMPS Electronics
Thanks after reading through that and some other forums I found that in Marlin's 'Configuration_adv.h' file line 154 there is an option to do this(uncomment the line to enable): //#define Y_DUAL_STEPPER_DRIVERS Now I just need to look into the dual homing. EDIT: If I were to wire the endstops together, then it would only read as being tripped when both are tripped at the same time. If I sloweby 1nxtmonster - RAMPS Electronics