Hi there. I have a question regarding the use of 3d printed parts in my printer. Since I first built it, a lot has been changed on my printer along the way. One of the things that has been redone is my hotend mount. In its current form, it is heavily inspired by RailCoreII, but since I would like to try a new extruder, I had to make some changes to my hotend mount. I came to think about how rigby flydeprutten - CoreXY Machines
Quotesinned Quotesdavi To get everything to fit, the write buffer for the SDCard was reduced to 512 bytes - this also matched the library used for SDCard which only supports single block access (512 block size). I am confused- does this mean that the SD card in the Graphical LCD is functional? I thought that it was not available. sinneD Not the sd card on the LCD. The on-board sd card. Reprby flydeprutten - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
Quotesinned Hurray! How did you wire up the module? Can you take a look at this and give me your thoughts ? Do we do anything with the RSOUT pin on the bottom left of the jumper? Thanks sinneD This is how i connected the LAN8720 to my Re-Arm: I made the mod on the LAN8720 module where I connected the RX_ER to NC.by flydeprutten - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
Thanks for the help. Everything now works as it should. Or at least as expected. You were right there was an error 40. After I made a configuration file and used the right DWC it worked. However, I can't upload larger files without it failing, but I have a toshiba airflash card so it's not a big problem. I can hereby confirm that the LAN8720 works as a network module for the Re-arm.by flydeprutten - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
QuotesdaviAhhhh, I think I know whats wrong. Did you grab the www from the SD-Card folder? Looks like there is a very old version of DWC in there. That explains that status.temps.heads error as well. I didn't even know that was there, i only found it from searching for "status.temps.heads". Also, make sure to use the configurator to generate a set of config files (if you haven't already) rather tby flydeprutten - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
I mean timeouts when I load the page. As I can see, I get it on viewmodel.js, as it is the last file that is being requested, and chrome therefore gives a timeout, as it does not get downloaded in time. When I get home I will do a ping test, and then I could design a pcb that could act as a bridge between the re-arm and the ethernet module. this would remove that uncertainty. :-)by flydeprutten - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
OK. Today I got my LAN8720 in the mail. I made a cable to connect it to my re-arm and it works. However, the problem is that it is insanely slow. My upload speed is approx. 100kb/s, and since the web server only allows one connection at a time, I get timouts in chrome. However, I can make it work in Firefox. i have a problem with that status.temps.heads is an empty variable in the ajax call thatby flydeprutten - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
QuotesinnedAny luck on this? I am trying to make a cable adapter to mate the two - i dont have the right connectors on hand just yet. Unfortunately I haven't got it yet. I was too focused on price, and did not notice that the product was shipped from China. I'm probably just going to use a dupon connector to connect it to my Re-arm.by flydeprutten - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
Hanrun hr911105a is just the ethernet connector. There is a controller chip on the module. On the first module you link to (NC28J60) it is an SPI interface. The LAN8720 is serial and, as I can see, it is a serial interface that LPC1768 needs. I ordered a LAN8720. Then we'll see. :-)by flydeprutten - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
Quotesinned I am totally out of my element here, but I will try anyhow.... If I understand your correctly. the LPC has the functionality in it. It just needs the hardware... Panacutt is out of the adapters. So instead, can we use something like the Waveshare LAN8270 to work as the dongle? Would this work for boards that do not have the expansion card option? mapping the pins from this doc (hiby flydeprutten - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
ok, just as an update if there are others with the same problem. Inspired by this thread, I resolved the problem by removing the D1 diode on my MKS Gen 1.4, thereby eliminating the power to the card's onboard buck converter. Then I installed my own buck converter between the 24 volt and 5 volt pins (right next to reset button). In this way, I assume I have gained a significantly more stable 5 vby flydeprutten - Controllers
QuoteRoberts_Clif With the basic setup you have in IMG_7733.JPG you have almost nothing to cause the noise. It's the same picture with my other 24v power supply. QuoteRoberts_Clif Do you have line noise leaking into the LED Power Supply Can you measure the voltage on the Supplies output leads. It's 23.9 voltsby flydeprutten - Controllers
This is a small test setup. Here I use my MKS Gen L controller. The problem is not so pronounced on this card, but it can still be seen clearly. As you can see, there should be no possibility of any particular interference.by flydeprutten - Controllers
Hi. I have a problem with my controller. I just upgraded my printer to 24 volts. I am using a 24 volt LED power supply and an MKS Gen 1.4 controller. After I've upgraded to 24 volts, I discovered a lot of noise on my temperature sensors. When I use 12 volts, there's hardly any noise (there may be a bit of noise, but I've only noticed it after I've started looking for it). When I just drive it onby flydeprutten - Controllers
Quotethe_digital_dentist That sounds about right, but how big is the bed? Do you intend to print ABS? If so, a 210W heater is good for about a 200x200 mm bed. If the bed is larger than that you may be waiting a long time for it to heat up. If you think you might add a second extruder, better throw in another 50W for another heater and motor. Are you going to be running LEDs from the power suby flydeprutten - General
Quotethe_digital_dentist This page breaks down the requirements for 3D printer power supplies very nicely: Thank you for the informative link. So: Blower 3W Hotend fan 3W Hotend heater 40W 4 Stepper motors 17W Controller 3W Heat bed 210W gives 276W which is 30% below the maximum power of my power supply. Is there anything I have overloby flydeprutten - General
Ok, I'm really in doubt. I don't know if my power supply is big enough. I have spent a long time planning to put a bed heater in my printer and I have gone back and forth between 12 and 24 volts. However, I now order a 24v, 210W silicone bed heater, as I already have a 24 volt power supply and I can get a cheap controller that can handle 24 volts. As I said, I am in doubt whether the power suppby flydeprutten - General
QuoteMKSA Grease and similar non dry lubricant will collect dirt, grit, may end up on the hobb ... and are better avoided. The design must use either closed ball bearing, polymer bushings .... You are absolutely right, this is a less than optimal solution. But if I had to solve it myself, I would have to machine space for ball bearings in the arm. This is the long-term solution, but will requirby flydeprutten - General
Quotethe_digital_dentist I wouldn't use any lube except graphite or silicone grease. Petroleum based grease may attack the plastic. E3D was having problems with the grease getting out of their bearings and onto the polycarbonate front cover of the Titan extruder and causing it to crack. But that's the beauty of using an extruder made of aluminum. The only plastic is the big gear, and that isby flydeprutten - General
Quotethe_digital_dentist If the motor shaft has a flat on the surface, the edges are probably sharp, and it's those edges that are chewing up the hole in the pinch roller lever. Use a file or sandpaper to reduce the sharpness. That's a good idea. I've done that. I've also given it a little grease, and this evening switched to a new and much better gear. When I'm sitting with the old gear in myby flydeprutten - General
I also bought the "all metal" titan clone a month ago, and have printed with it for the last couple of weeks. However, I have not yet replaced the gear, and have not yet done the same mod as the digital dentist, but I will do it very soon. The biggest problem I experienced was that it squeaked incredibly much. At first I thought it was the plastic gear that rubbed up agenst something, but when Iby flydeprutten - General
Hi I really want to convert my printer to 24 volts, not least because of my stepper drivers/motors (I want to make them quieter). However, I would like to test what impact it has on the drivers before I go all in. (New controller, new heating cartridge, new power supply and so on). My plan is to use a simple boost converter to generate 24 volts for all my TMC2130 drivers (connect the VM and Gndby flydeprutten - General
If I do not care that the fan is running all the time, can I then just connect it directly to the normal 12v output, and forget about the internal fan header?by flydeprutten - General
QuoteRoberts_Clif Most LED power supplies have a 12 Volt adjustment potentiometer. As shown in the Image below. This should be adjusted to 12 volt. Higher voltages will allow ripple voltage under higher loads on the supply, this will in turn cause you nothing but greef. Making you chase noise spikes causing many 3D Printer ghosts effects, the noise spikes on the controller voltage will cause yoby flydeprutten - General
Quotedc42 That PSU obviously does have a temperature sensor for the fan, otherwise the fan voltage wouldn't vary with load the way it does. But it appears to be designed for use with an 18V fan, not a 12V fan. Are there any markings on the original fan that indicate its operating voltage? Yes, it says 14 volts. By the way, if I use Noctuas low noise adapter, the volts are higher before adapterby flydeprutten - General
Quotethe_digital_dentist My experience with those cheapo "LED" power supplies is that if the fan turns on, the supply is about to die. If the voltage is dropping and the fan is kicking on you're definitely overloading the supply. The power supply constantly supplies 12 volts to the printer. This is not the problem, and there is no thermal relay in the supply, which means that the fan always runby flydeprutten - General
QuoteDust Yes, its a crappy supply without a temperature sensor, so the fan is always on and just reponds to load a little. See for how to add in the sensor back in. I have seen the guides, but it does not seem to be the same type of power supply as mine. There is no connector for mounting a thermal relay.by flydeprutten - General
Hi, I have a question about power supplies. I just bought a 12v LED power supply for my printer, but as the fan was incredibly loud, I replaced it with a 60mm noctua fan I had lying around. The power supply is 360 w, but at the moment I do not have a heatbed, and therefore, it is also not under full load right now. After installing my new fan, I thought it was still loud, and the fan was actuby flydeprutten - General
Just a little update on my printer. My pulleys on the gantry had already begun to bend, so I've reinforced them. It has not yet happened on the front pulleys, but they are still on my to-do list. Right now, I'm concentrating on designing a new mount for my hotend. I had discovered that there is a very small amount of play in my linear rails on the x-axis. There is also some play on the y-axis rby flydeprutten - CoreXY Machines
Ahh, of course I can use my z-probe. It's already right there. thank you.by flydeprutten - CoreXY Machines