Hey all, I would like to do a calibration video next, but in order to really see what I am doing I want to use some kind of screen capturing program. Does anyone know of a free video (and audio) desktop recording program?by ikilledkenny - Reprappers
Richard, What kind of firmware are you using? Have you PID tuned your hot end yet? Few things to look first. 1) Using the correct thermal couple in the FW. Does the values in the host software match up (some way of comparing two temps_. 2) PID tune your hot end (Marlin). I have a budda, and out the box I was having hot end temp issues. I later found out that Marlin FW PID is default on, andby ikilledkenny - Reprappers
Hey looks good! How did the acrylic work for you? There some reports that acrylic is very hard to work with, that over tightening or even continual vibration may cause cracks and spiderwebs?by ikilledkenny - Reprappers
Video Log #7 is up! I talk a bit about how I got rid of my layer smash issue as well as just a little overview on my electronics and firmware set up. If there is a request for a particular topic let me me knowby ikilledkenny - Reprappers
This is always a fun question to see debated, but in the end the answer to the question always seems foggy for most. I think the root cause of this is the question of "Is ABS, or PLA, or " food safe can be taken in two main ways with two different answers. 1) Can I make print that is "FDA" food safe? 2) If I stick this thing in my mouth, or have food touch it then into my mouth will I die? Theby ikilledkenny - General
Here is my test samples. All same g-code. Far left you can see that the lines would repeat about twice. In the middle I swapped out the 100k thermester with a 10K thermester. Far right I PID tuned both my hot end and heated bed, as well as allowed more "slop" in the hot bed to the Y bed. Issue - my heated bed was constrained so much that it had no place to go but up when it would expand anby ikilledkenny - Reprappers
Alright I think I have figured out the layer smash issue. Rather then go into great detail here ill be making a video here soon and posting it. Here is a hint though - You can't break physics, no matter how hard you tryby ikilledkenny - Reprappers
okay I think I figured it out. Main cause was due to the thermal expansion and contraction of my hot bed, and the fact that the hot bed was secured down too much. As the hot bed went through the temp swings it would expand and contact in the Z direction causing layers to smash. Solution Use PID tuning for the hotbed (Latest Marlin) Allow hot bed to move or expand in the X and Y direction.by ikilledkenny - Reprappers
Alright I have found that the issue seems to be tied to my hotbed. Hot bed on - Every X height the layers get squashed Hot bed off - Nice and smooth. any thoughts how to reduce bed expansionby ikilledkenny - Reprappers
Hey Sorry for the long time between build logs. Here is a nice and short video just as an update on my printer. Right now I am in battle with some banding. It It seems that the Z may not move its full height and then causes smashed layers. Anyone with thoughts let me know.by ikilledkenny - Reprappers
I have some video of what the banding looks like in my build log Any thoughts? Possible threaded rod bindingby ikilledkenny - Reprappers
I am using a modified version of WildBill's cold end (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:24992) I have attached the STL's that I created, but I HIGHLY suggest that you do not use them. I have been working on this design for about 6+ months now, and over time there has been multiple changes to the source STL's for the i3. Currently there is an improved X-carriage design that makes tightening theby ikilledkenny - Reprappers
Wait what is this??? A different color? Sorry all for the delay in my video's but I had to go through a rebuild. I will go into further detail in my next video, but in short my Z box was crap, and decided to make a new one.by ikilledkenny - Reprappers
8mm smooth rod that is 350mm long. Using 2 lm8uu bearings on each end. Motors are located at the bottom and coupled with soft tube. Ill work on printing something different.by ikilledkenny - Reprappers
Not sure if I am experiencing z-wobble or layer squish, or how to get rid of it. It seems that every 10-12 layers (.3mm layer height) I get a ridge as seen in the picture. The ridge is uniform around the whole part. I do not think this is Z-wobble as this is on a i3 printer design with rubber tubes between the motor shaft and threaded rod. Also the ridges do not match up exactly with my threaby ikilledkenny - Reprappers
Soono, 1) The hole should be a through hole. The STL did not seem to have this issue for me and all parts printed out fine. 2) In each of the STL's only one hole ended up needing to be drilled out, I am not sure why the models are this way but after I printed it I took a knife and just cut open the hole again.by ikilledkenny - Reprappers
Stage 5 is finished. From here on out the videos might me a bit shorter and more of an overview (I don't think anyone wants to watch me string wire for 10 mins).by ikilledkenny - Reprappers
Well printer is done!!! I am working on calibration and getting the kinks out. Session 5 is done and I will be posting shortly.by ikilledkenny - Reprappers
Stage 4 is done. In this video I put the cold and hot end together as well as attached the whole extruder assembly to the X-carriage.by ikilledkenny - Reprappers
Sniper4395 PEEK has a lower temp them PTFE, and is not as "slippery" as PTFE. PEEK is used as the main housing just for its strength compared to making a whole housing out of PTFE. This is why the PEEK NEEDS to be cooled if printing in ABS. Metal can be used but it also is not as slippery as PTFE, and if you drilled the ID out yourself could have some small burrs or drill marks that will catcby ikilledkenny - Reprappers
NumberSix, Thanks for the comment!. Panucatt just came out with their hot bed the same time their Azteeg X3 controller controller came out. I think they have only been shipping both the controller and hot bed for maybe two months now. Previous builds I have used an MK2 and RAMPS 1.4 set up, so I am excited to see how this set-up works. So far I am very happy with the quality from Panucatt.by ikilledkenny - Reprappers
Alright Stage 3 now uploaded. This build I work on attaching the hot bed to the Y-carriage as well as connecting both the y-carriage to the frame built in stage 1. It's a long build log, but hope you enjoy Stage 3 -by ikilledkenny - Reprappers
Like the others have said you just need to replace the PTFE liner with one that has a smaller ID. If you have trouble finding a tube with the above mentioned dimensions another option is to purchase .25 OD PFTE rod (McMaster 8546K11) Then just drill it out to the proper size. I use this method for my j-head style hot end. Also PFTE rod is cheap (2.33 USD per foot)by ikilledkenny - Reprappers
After building two Prusa i2 with a friend I decided to start from the ground up and design/build my own version of the new i3. My main goal was to have a full 200x200x200 build volume (with option to go larger on the build volume), utilize the previous Prusa i2 smooth rod lengths, and use as many standard i3 STL's as possible. So far this has been a fun experiment for myself, I have made some mby ikilledkenny - Reprappers
Got both my board and hot bed, and they look fantastic. Now I am waiting on my other components to build my i3. Question, the hotbed came with some fiberglass tape (guessing nomex) is this intended to be taped on the underside of the board so it is sandwiched between the hot bed and the wood bed?by ikilledkenny - For Sale
Hey Kevin, There are actually quite a few people up in the cities location already that might be able to help you. They usually frequent the reprap IRC channel. Also there is a hacker space up in Minneapolis, and I know a few people there have 3D printers. Worse comes to worse and you have no luck, look for me on the IRC channel.by ikilledkenny - Mankato Blue Earth County Minnesota RUG
Update: Played around with both speed rate as well as the current limiting pot. I noticed no change, but what I did notice was that once per rev the lead screws would bind. I confirmed this by sound (during long Z movements the sound would very about once per rev) as well as visual (during long Z movements the carriage would slow down once per rev). Conclusion - the threaded rods are bent to aby ikilledkenny - General
Z steps are set to a nice round number 2560 (I believe this is the calculator you where talking about ) I have seen some wobble during long Z moves (0 to 100 or 100 to 0). There the ridges to repeat themselves about every 6 layers or so. This would match up with my .2 layer height and .8 x 1.25 threaded rod. Any suggestions on how to remove/reduce the wobble?by ikilledkenny - General
jamesdanielv Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > reduce your flow rate by 1-5% wobble effect should > minimize. it looks like wobble, but to me it > looks like it could be the filament is being > swished wider than the nozzle surface. if anything > reducing flow rate will confirm if it is really > wobble. By flow rate do you mean extrusion multipliby ikilledkenny - General
I am having some Z layer wobble issues that have just started recently. I have a Prusa printer and started to notice ridges forming in the Z direction, but only on one half of the print. So far I have removed the second M8 and spring between then on the X ends, as well as installed this screw isolation but with no improvement. I have attached a recent print. It seems that the wobble or squisby ikilledkenny - General