aplavins Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > If there is ever a point where the filament can > expand to a diameter greater than the diameter of > the barrel, and the plastic is below it's molten > temp, the hotend will fail. What happens then if the diameter of the barrel is too large? First thought would be to just increase the barrel larger to deal wby ikilledkenny - Reprappers
What does the program read as a value (0, null, 9999, 23). If you dont see around 20-25 deg C on start up there is a connection issue. Also, not sure what your hot end looks like but make sure that ther thermister is not grounding to the tip. you need to make sure that both wires from the thermister are insulated and are not shoring out to the extruder. This will throw off the over all resistaby ikilledkenny - Reprappers
Slow down your outer speed, and maybe have less outer layers. I have a simular issue with ABS as well. I found by slowing down the print speed of the shell, and reducing the outer layers from 3 to 2 helped a lot. Come to find out that ABS is a bit of a pain as it will go through a wide range of thermal expansion/contraction. So by having more layers on your outer shell by the time your finalby ikilledkenny - Reprappers
Julianh I understand what you mean, and I agree with you. The openings in the extruder is much larger then the filiment and I can see how this could cause jams due to the slop. At this point I think I might have fixed the issue with re-wrapping the nichrome wire (I finished 3 calibratoin blocks and two bridge calibrations w/o a jam). Tomorrow will be more calibicration and if I run into jammiby ikilledkenny - Reprappers
The stainless tube is around 2mm if not slightly over, but no more then 2.25mm. There has been some slight success. Looking at other nozzles and such I did notice that mine had a longer distance between the PTFE and the Nichrome wire (assuming that most individuals use a 30mm brass/stainless tube and I am using a 50mm tube). So I re-wraped it spreading the heat zone out more and have successby ikilledkenny - Reprappers
Unsure about the design of the wades extruder. I purchased a kit from e-bay and looking it over it does not say if the extruder is for 3.0 or 1.75 filament. My entire hot end is though designed for 1.75 though. This morning I added more kapton tape to the hot end (thinking to add more insulation near the tip) then proceed to press filament by hand at around 240-250 deg. Pressing the filamenby ikilledkenny - Reprappers
I am not very familar with your board but I was having simular issues using RAMPS/Arduino & Sprinter set up. The main issue was that the firmware needed to be configured to my specific set up. Using the arduino sketch program I went into the configuration file, altered it to select my electronics set up (this case RAMPS 1.4), my thermister values (100k and 10k), and pin layout.by ikilledkenny - Reprappers
Regarding the PTFE/Brass connection I HIGHLY suggesting trashing the idea of threading the PTFE. Rather install a thread insert (heli-coil) that has m6 ID threads. I had a simular issue where heat and pressure caused the brass bolt to press out. Since installing a heli-coil I have had no issues with the brass pressing out.by ikilledkenny - Reprappers
I am using a Wades extruder with a Nichromewire tip. My barrel is 50cm long and is made from stainless steel. The tip is a brass acorn nut with a .35mm hole, and a PTFE barrel. This looks similar to my setup with a longer space between the hot end and PTFE barrel I am using RAMPS 1.4 electronics, Sprinter firmware, repetier software (lastest with sli3r 0.6.0). My settings are identical to tby ikilledkenny - Reprappers