as tadejv said its getting hot. the layers need time to cool use a fan or try to print 2 at once this will give it more time to cool. lowering print temp some will help alsoby jm44807 - Printing
what worked for me is to adjust first layer height an/or extrusion width(slicer has option for first layer extrusion width). just the opposite of when it doesnt stick good enough. it is a balance a part without much contact with bed you may want to stick better lower first layer height a lots of contact raise first layer height. for parts stuck to good i used a razor to start edges then a putty kby jm44807 - Printing
as a quad myself i have been wanting to do this for a while. these are such a simple ideas my ideas were much more complicated. i did make a mod for wii controllers that basically connected the 2 controllers together to make it more like an xbox controller. my nieces have the wii at the moment ill try and post pics when they bring i back. one thing to add would be to have them lock in place likeby jm44807 - General
try oil on sponge wrapped around filament it has been mentioned in other threads. i tried everything with a similar hotend and was ready to give up tried this and not plugged since. i used vegetable oil.by jm44807 - General
i have a similar stainless steel hotend i tried many including everything papergeek says it did help but i would still get jams just less often. what worked for me was sponge and oil on filiment. i used cooking oil and have not jammed since(about a week so far) i even let hotend sit at 170c for 3 minutes and still no jams. its an easy thing to try. it does not seem to effect prints at all. i eby jm44807 - General
you may not need fan to cool hotend for pla but like me and others have said you need a fan on the piece you are printing. the layers dont have enough time to cool off before next layer is printed. you can use any fan to test it if you have a house fan use it or take a computer fan hook it to a 9v battery and just hold it by hand so it blows on printed object. when it gets to the layers that mby jm44807 - General
it is your layer height + your z offset. in slic3er you can lower it in printer settings--> general --> Z offset or change first layer height what is your layer height?by jm44807 - General
for getting estep correct i get it close the way you did on first time. but to get i right you need to print single wall calibration piece. here are a couple guides. some say you should print this piece each time you change filament. the last pics it looks to hot and/or you need a fan blowing on printed piece. especially on the thin layers cause it goes even slower. try lower temp or try priby jm44807 - General
yea i was thinking it may not be to hard to come up with some sort if jig to speed thing up if you wanted to do alot. also if you can find the 5/32 thick square nuts. he had them from his dads stock which are probably 20-40 yrs old. i had some 6mm jam nuts i tried i think they would work but they were loose this was in 8020 1x1 inch tslot. wonder how 1/4" jam nuts would work. one thing i like abby jm44807 - General
yea would not want to do a boatload he made me 30 or so said it took 15 - 20 min. the 5/32 thick nut went faster it only takes a few strokes with file. the one you linked im sure work fine also. this is just another alternative.by jm44807 - General
i have not seen this suggested. a friend came up with a way to get cheap extrusion nuts. just buy square nuts and file edges to fit in. works better than the Economy T Nut that cost $0.20-0.25 a piece because they fit tighter. here the square nut is $0.08 a piece he said it is fairly easy to put in vise and hand file 2 corners. he had old stock one was 7/32 thick but another box was 5/32 thicby jm44807 - General
i made it the same as the others.by jm44807 - General
i am using arduino MEGA 2560 with ramps 1.4 everything works fine until i put a a4988 on e0 for a second extruder. after it is inserted windows will not recognize it at all. like i never plugged in usb. if i take it out and plug in usb it will discover it and everything works fine again. i ordered another a4988 driver but does the same thing. is there something i need to do before i put in the dby jm44807 - General
hard to tell in pics but is it lifting off the bed? the extra plastic on edges look like mine when a corner doesnt stick to bedby jm44807 - Printing
did you read richraps slicer is nicer part 2 and 3? part 2 talks about first layer height. also make sure your z is calibrated ie manually tell it to move up 30mm then measure it. use the latest slic3r i think its 9.8 i spent 2 week trying to fix an issue similar to yours. mine would print firts 5 or so layers fine then start to look like yours. turned out i needed a fan on my j-head. i justby jm44807 - Printing
thanks thats what i suspected but wasnt sure. ill just get some ptfe liner and make it longer.by jm44807 - General
thanks for reply i think is a version of the jhead adapted to fit mendel parts extruder. instead of using the slot in peek to mount ill use the brass threaded rod to sucure it to the 4mm plate on extruder. the pics were hard to see the other end. the end towards camera in the first pic was the top. here is a pic of the whole hotend. cant see real well because of the tape but the bottom is allby jm44807 - General
i got this jhead from mendel parts before i put it on i tried inserting a piece of filiment by hand but it would catch. if i wiggle it around i can get it to go in. so i decided to pull the top threaded rod and found there is about 10mm space between the threads in peek and the ptfe sleeve. so the rod doesn contact the ptfe. from all i have read i wand to have the rod in contact with the ptfe. tby jm44807 - General
yes i have 2 fans hooked to d9 and the m106 turns them on. not sure why yours dont work. mabey check you have board listed as 33 i think if you use 34 it makes d9 power for 2nd hot end. im new to this so this is just how i think its suppose to work check with multimeter to see if your getting power out of d9 to eliminate a bad fan or connection. goodluckby jm44807 - General
here is a list of commands m106 fan on m107 fan off did u get endstops working i had a tough time getting mine working. i have z endstop at max(homes to top) also my y and x endstops are nc(normally closed) but my z endstop is no(normally open). i had to change z to no because for some reason on nc it would hit endstop switch and keep going another 3/8 inch. and crash endstop. hope this helby jm44807 - General
i finally got my custom printer together the only kit i ordered was the v9 hotend from makemendel.com. i noticed the niddle peek did not have a shoulder in the center. when i emailed him about some other minor issues(set crew missing and gear hole to small) he responded but not about the peek. now that i tried it icant get it to work it extruded about 6 inch of plastic then after cool down i reby jm44807 - General
here is a list on wiki i got mine from ultimachine. i got it quick but have not tried it yet still building my printer. here is buying guide for all parts that may be helpfulby jm44807 - General
im new to reprap also just starting my first build. i found this site quick shipping and good prices. i need a belt longer than1 meter they list them but no stock on any over a meter but good selection smaller. also i think its a $30 min orderby jm44807 - Reprappers