doogleass Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Why not just use the Nylon filament from octave? Do you mean Taulman nylon? What are the recommended recipe for baking the water out of this blue weedwhackrr line?by Simba - General
Wow @ bike pedal. Wouldn't trust the strength of that myself... But it should be doable. What program was used to make the designby Simba - General
IanJohnson Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > There are liquid pigments used to color plastic, > either in the production of masterbatch or as an > alternative to masterbatch or powder. Would those > withstand the temps, or do they usually get mixed > at lower temps and get burned off, leaving the > color behind? It might be hard to find anythingby Simba - General
greenman100 Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Simba Wrote: > -------------------------------------------------- > ----- > > Clever designs from Makibot/Solidoodle used a > > thick piece of acrylic to provide the tension > > (Acrylic bends like a canteliver/spring over > small > > distances). IT would provide ~5-15 lb of force >by Simba - General
OK, just realized, you have a huge challenge to overcome before moving forward. The heat will smoke out any liquid at temps of 200C except except mineral oil. Does that even mix with plastic?by Simba - General
Great question. Obviously there is a lot of child-oriented "check it out/cool factor" parts, and recursively self-justified reprap parts, and perhaps some gimmicky looking things, but I hope you don't think that is all there is for FDM printers. We are SO close to breaking out into a world of real replicators. What you will see in 2013/14 with blow away all the past years combined. I'm thinkiby Simba - General
Clever designs from Makibot/Solidoodle used a thick piece of acrylic to provide the tension (Acrylic bends like a canteliver/spring over small distances). IT would provide ~5-15 lb of force I guess? Please observe SD2, the top right of this picture I hope this gives your some inspirationby Simba - General
Can you tell me more about the "Dye" - is it particles of colorant (ferrite, aquamarine, etc) or actual dye like RIT brand dye. I think realizing a multi-extruder into a single nozzle is the easiest part of this build. A good cnc company should be able to put 3-6 0.5mm diameter nozzles to a central feeding point...The "purge" pillar is a good starting idea. I think it's going to be an uphilby Simba - General
Oh that is fantastic. What do you think about using a nonturbulent "mixer" like the kinds put at the end of viscous 2-part epoxy cartridges?by Simba - General
IMHO, you care way too much about being wronged, especially as the item was only $30. Agree it is suspicious this backer/supporter posts here at the same day with as the merchant new account, but really, this is small small time conversation for reprap.org to be having. Please help make reprap a place of wondrous invention and innovation both in projects and in general spirit. If you don't lby Simba - General
Greg Frost Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Another thing that might cause issues on one side > is a nozzle that dies not have a completely > symmetrical opening. Perhaps the nozzle is not > perfectly normal to the build platform, or not > completely square on the end. I fave heard of > people placing very fine grit sandpaper in the bed > and rby Simba - General
jzatopa Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Simba I'm using a fan with a duct, .5 nozzle and > on a mm1.5. I am printing at 230-240 and I am > just not getting the detail I want. I am still > dialing things in but I don't think I'm really far > off. What setup is working well for you? No fan for abs. ~235c for absby Simba - General
Mechanically, you can achieve a cantilever of any size based on classic equations. The question is, does it fit in your print. MY guess is that at 500 mm, you absolutely should use a bed supported at all 4 corners, because the bending of the ends would start to deviate from Z=0 too much, plus strain the bearings to death and your entire system would have a bending moment on it creating internalby Simba - Reprappers
So I finally found the answer to this and Konwiddak was right on - its just a standard machine in hot bending plastics.by Simba - Developers
Evil Monkey Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I was wondering if anyone has considered wire or > powdered ferrous material being released through a > nozzle surrounded by an induction coil on to a > ceramic build platform. Under the platform would > be an electromagnet shadowing the movements of the > nozzle overhead and keeping the metal above inby Simba - Developers
Decided to add one master huge FET (30A + 30V), and a single thermistor may be in store. AS it is now, it is not much larger than RAMPS 1.4by Simba - Developers
Wish it was easier than it is... everything is tucked away in a textbook or some paid CFD program somewhere. As a general rule, IDK if this helps you, but the ideal melting temperature for extrusion of almost every single polymer will hit a dynamic viscosity of about 500-2000 cP. What are different nozzle "configurations" ? Inner Diameters? Lengths?by Simba - General
No. MY ABS prints far far better. The reason is, PLA has hysteresis, which means it melts about 100C but won't resolidify until it hits ~45C and stays there for a while. As a result, bridging is a disaster, and small prints where heat builds up turn to mush. This effect is ONLY useful for medium prints where you have some cooling time but want to avoid warp. IF you get to large prints again,by Simba - General
Polygonhell Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > IMO your best bet to get higher speeds than > 500mm/s is to use bigger pulleys and trade off > speed for accuracy and torque. I agree, also, you are going to use exponentially more torque the faster you step, so going to twice the torque and double pulley size could mean several times more practical torque thaby Simba - General
Inquisitor Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > What temperature did you set your extruder? I used every color/brand you could find in home depot. They all worked the same, and they all crackled. I did 235C. I recommend against using this material with small nozzles, and I am sure it will clog, plus the minute amount of cyanide no one seems to care about: "Twby Simba - General
What does current sensing do? The whole system is passive, based on assumptions.by Simba - Developers
UH, I'm completely clueless, but, Isn't movement speed increased by more amperage so that you can have higher toque thus large diameter pulley? Lower impedance/higher voltage to switch faster? And mostly, wouldn't 1/Xths stepping (However ridiculous and unlikely that is to be meaningful under a load) require more steps, slowing you down?by Simba - General
I've seen this. The extruder is loose on the bushings, wavying side to sideby Simba - General
This is not right (The times). I need to look more closely at it. For the amount of marketing they do, I expected a slight ly better print, but frankly, you are starting at a good place!by Simba - General
At those prices, i'm curious. Why bother printing in metal if ceramics offer the same features (High compressible strength, high temp, long lasting, etc) only lacking in the key area that they are more brittle, and can't bend. For many applications this can be enough. What do you think about ultra high temp Zirconia, and other furnace cements? I've wanted to 3d print them for a WHILE now. Itby Simba - General
This i3 is so much better looking that the previous generations. They are still using grossly overpowered stepper motors for some reason though. The stepsticks provided with my prusa provide 1A output, and the steppers they provided take 1.66A current. They are running way below capacity. I didn't realize the connector was a press fit. I do not trust it as much now since once it starts to slby Simba - General
Also, the board has a first ever - overpowered regulator. It can take up to 24VDC and convert to 5VDC for arudino mega, so it can run independent of USB or act as USB host, rather than draining the source computer. This also keeps the arduino from being overheated (above 12V before). IF the DUE takes the 5VDC input and converts to 3.3V, it may work without modification?by Simba - Developers
Good comments guys, thanks for the input. We are designing RAMPS10 to be a beefy motor controller. therefore we agree with the need for a powerful output so we are installing a FET capable of up to 30 amps in the current version. I may try to include a thermistor, but i think it should go off chip. It is important that linking two chips works. I can't see why it wouldn't - sharing the load,by Simba - Developers
VDX Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > ... could be really different, depends on the > salt/solution or chemistry or specific additives > ... either heating the fluid in the spot near the > surface, or add energy as UV-photons, so the > equilibrium changes from a stable state to a > chemical 'chain-reaction' ... You guys, this is an absolute win.by Simba - General
Yes, it pops and crackles, but it works. However, It has now been proven to give off cyanide gas at around 0.1 PPM levels. It is because of contaminants in the weedwhacker (it isn't meant for this purpose!). IT isn't deadly dangerous by a long shot, but I don't wanna be exposed to it.by Simba - General