Hey guys, To update: I agree with Shawn above about PID tuning. It cannot be the problem as this printer was working perfectly fine a few days ago. I am new to this for sure, but I did do a continuity test with a VOM and it seemed fine, but I re-soldered the connection just to be sure. I just unplugged the thermistors from the electronics completely, and the temps STILL fluctuate rapidly (jusby kfootball15 - General
I.m having a wierd issue. When I go to print or set the bed and hotend temps, the temp reading is all over the map. The temp will still rise, but itll jump from 32.8 to 31 to 28, back up to 35 to 33.8 to 30.1, back up to 39... etc etc etc. Very strange. My thermostors seem to soldered and plugged in just fine... Anyone else every had this problem?by kfootball15 - General
When I enter in the M114 command I get two readings for each axis The first just tells me the reading (X: -130, Y: -160, Z: 0, E0) and the other says 'Count:' first and then a slightly different reading (Count X: -126.91, Y-129.8, Z 0). What is the different between these two readings? Thanks!by kfootball15 - General
Quoteddseeker Dupont Connectors Thank you! Why exactly are these so hard to find. Seems so essential for anybody tinkering with electronics, you'd think Radioshack would at least have something like it lying aroundby kfootball15 - General
I need more of the little sockets and plugs shown in the image below, but I am having a lot of difficulty locating these things. They didn't have them at radioshack and they didnt have them at my local hardware store. Anywhere online I could buy a bunch of them?by kfootball15 - General
Yeah I bought a cubify sense3D scanner and their software was completely awful, so I am not surpised!by kfootball15 - General
Just an update with my experiences. I wanted to use photoshops ability to print the bump maps and textures applied to models. So while I haven't yet figured out how to print directly from photoshop to my printer, its is quite simple to export the .stl, use slic3r, and then print the gcode. So it is very easy to use photoshops 3D printing tools, I'm just not sure how to fully integrate it yet. Aby kfootball15 - Experimental
Quotekfootball15 My small business could benefit from being to print some objects in multiple colors, so I was thinking about giving the Kraken a shot! It seems worth it, as the price is pretty fair and they offer stepper motors and a very low cost to accomodate the 'beta' aspect. I was just wondering what peoples experiences with it were, and if anyone had a good Tutorial or Instruction Manualby kfootball15 - General
My small business could benefit from being able to print some objects in multiple colors, so I was thinking about giving the Kraken a shot! It seems worth it, as the price is pretty fair and they offer stepper motors and a very low cost to accomodate the 'beta' aspect. I was just wondering what peoples experiences with it were, and if anyone had a good Tutorial or Instruction Manual on setting iby kfootball15 - General
This is unfortunate. I'm not engineer, but I would love to figure out a way for the nozzles to autolevel. I can experiment with this in my free time if anyone has any ideas. I have autolevel beds on all my printers and they solved almost every issue I was having up to that point. This might sound absurd, but as a starter idea, perhaps having each extruder/hotend on its OWN X and Z axis, with itsby kfootball15 - General
Anybody?by kfootball15 - General
Hey, Has anyone got the new Photoshop 3D options working with RepRap printers with Marlin Firmware? I would to use Photoshop directly with my RepRap but I'm not sure how to get it working! Thanks, Jeffby kfootball15 - General
QuoteAdventure I am working one on one with the company right now to figure out what the issues are with PhotoshopCC communicating with my printers. They say it should be very easy. I will post what I know here. I am also going to publish my driver with the PhotoshopCC so others will be able to modify and make them work with there printers. They have told me that there is no way to inject gcodeby kfootball15 - Experimental
Quotekfootball15 Are there any good duel hotends on the market that help preserve print space, and any good tutorials on how to calibrate the hotends and set them up? I should've said, I know of several duel hotends but are there any the community has used and would recommend?by kfootball15 - General
Are there any good duel hotends on the market that help preserve print space, and any good tutorials on how to calibrate the hotends and set them up?by kfootball15 - General
Oh I see. So it performs this function only one time, and uses that information on any g-code that is implemented? Irregardless of whether or not this information is installed in the g-code?by kfootball15 - General
I'm having two very annoying problems with setting up my Auto Bed Leveling system. The first is that when I go to print, the probe only takes one measurement before starting its print, which does nothing more then a regular z-stop might do. How do I fix that?by kfootball15 - General
I cannot for the life of me figure out how to calibrate the center of the bed in the Marlin Firmware. My AutoBed Level probe veers way off the bed and I am am having trouble calibrating it. If I could just adjust where the center of the bed is, I could solve the problem easily! Thanks, Jeffby kfootball15 - General
Quotebrnrd Quotekfootball15 Quotejamesdanielv brnrd: the auto bed routing is performed by G29, it needs to be performed after G28 otherwise all settings are lost. also i had some signal issues with my servo jerking back a bit whenever my extruder motor stopped. i fixed it by driving the pulse width pin to high when servo is not in use. I have my servo wires routed thru with my extruder wires toby kfootball15 - General
Im having a little trouble. I have the software edited and I'm pretty positive I have that part is correct. When I go to pronter face and type in the command "M280 P0 S150" to get the servo to move, nothing happens. That is most likely because I have not jumped the servo pins. I really don't know how to do that. Do I just take a wire and touch one to the 5V pin and the other to the VCC pin? I'vby kfootball15 - General
Quotejamesdanielv brnrd: the auto bed routing is performed by G29, it needs to be performed after G28 otherwise all settings are lost. also i had some signal issues with my servo jerking back a bit whenever my extruder motor stopped. i fixed it by driving the pulse width pin to high when servo is not in use. I have my servo wires routed thru with my extruder wires to keep things neat, so this soby kfootball15 - General
Quoteumdpru Check out zenmasters videos. They are for a makerfarm prusa i3 but the ramps part and firmware videos will be very helpful. He answers ask your questIons in his three videos. I got my bal done with the help of his videos. I had actually been watching those haha. He briefly explains it in the first one but I am still unclear on how to actually go about doing it. Ive only watched tby kfootball15 - General
Hey guys, So the Smartrap 3D printer doesn't start selling kits until March, so I wanted to try and build one myself before hand. I have most of the parts but there are a few that I am unsure about. I've attached an image with the parts in question circled. (PS: I know that is a J-Head Hotend, I am just unclear about all those wires, especially the thick white one). Let me know if you guysby kfootball15 - Smart_Rap
Hey Guys! So the ordered parts I needed came in and I am trying to install it onto my printer but I am running into a small problem. The instructions say "In order to get the servo working, you need to supply 5V to 5V pin.. You can do it using your power supply (if it has a 5V output) or jumping the "Vcc" from Arduino to the 5V RAMPS rail. " How Do I do this? Is it as simple as connecting a wby kfootball15 - General
Hello, I am trying to upgrade my Ramps 1.4 to Marlin. Right now on Sprinter everything works absolutely fine, but when I switch to Marlin the endstops no longer work! Any idea what the problem could be? I've attached my marlin file. Thanks!by kfootball15 - General
I dont actually own a multip meter I did, however, switch the bed and hotend thermostor connections. The bed Thermistor (which is attached to the bed but connected in the thermistor slot) reads about 22 degrees and will NOT change despite setting a high temp. The hotend thermistor (which is attached to the hotend but connected in the bed slot) still reads 357 degrees Any idea what this means?by kfootball15 - General
Quotestephenrc Your thermister may be shorted, check it's resistance. how do i do that? and woul;dnt a short be solved when i resoldered? one of em would have worked, no?by kfootball15 - General
Is it possible that my thermistor is shot?by kfootball15 - General
My Hotend is reading at 357 degrees for some reason and wont change. I have made sure that the thermistor is connected to the right slot, and I've even resoldered the wires to make absolutely sure. I've also checked with sprinter firmware and found out that the Marlin firmware is not actually the problem. Sprinter is also reading my hotend at 357 degrees despite it being cold as ice. I checkedby kfootball15 - General
QuoteShadowRam What is the resistance of your Thermsistor not connected to anything? Not sure I understand what you mean. I have made sure that the thermistor is connected to teh right slot. I've also checked with sprinter firmware and found out that the Marlin firmware is not actually the problem. Sprinter is also reading my hotend at 357 degrees despite it being cold as ice. I checked onlineby kfootball15 - General