using 5/16 threaded rod for the z-axis drive rods is a bad idea. You want to slice your models at full step heights. There are very few full step height options with a 5/16 rod. See the reprap magazine issue 1 or 2, I can't remember.by umdpru - General
QuoteI also have a new design using high precision linear bearings that is very high-end nice. I have an opportunity to sell quite a few BerryBot3D’s and my business partners suggested that I pull the design videos until I have decided if I want to jump into it. Since you Guys had already seen them I didn’t think it would be a big deal to pull them. The videos hit 15K views so fast I figured everby umdpru - General
There's no such thing as a "nicely machined" threaded rod. Their all just rolled threads which doesn't produce a straight rod nor produce a particularly accurate thread. You can get lucky and get nearly straight rods. A2A will be sourcing their rod and from a supplier and not making it themselves. Your best bet is to get more than you need and find the least warped rods you can.by umdpru - General
How is everyone mounting an LCD to their machine? I'm looking to mount mine to the top of mine since it's closest to the controller. I looked at Rich's github files and found an LCD adapter but I can't for the life of me figure out how he used it!by umdpru - Delta Machines
You want a fan if you're printing with PLA. the more popular hot-ends like the E3D come with frans. It's strongly suggested to run a fan on a J-Head printing with PLA. I believe Magma hot-ends can't print in PLA period.by umdpru - General
1/32 micro stepping currents are going to be really low. I just find it difficult to believe that 1/32 stepping is taking place without careful component matching. See here Had anyone run their machine on both 1/32 and 1/16?by umdpru - Delta Machines
Have you tried pressing the reset button on the controller immediately before attempting to connect? You had to do this on the makerbot gen3 arduino based electronics in order to interrupt the installed firmware so you could update it. It sounds to me like maybe your test firmware is starting and not allowing a connection?by umdpru - RAMPS Electronics
Are you guys really getting 1/32 microstepping? Wasn't there some controversy with respect to truly getting even 1/16th on your typical reprap? How do you measure that you are getting to that level? I looked at getting a Rumba but ended up going with what I know best -Ramps 1.4. I wanted the RUMBA for the 3DR simple I am building but I coudlnt' find a source for the hall effect end-stops. Wherby umdpru - Delta Machines
Can someone please point me in the direction of information pertaining to the motor wiring? Which motors are the "x" "y" and "x". I realize it probably doesn't matter as long as the end-stops are right. I can just change the orientation of the printer to suit the wiring. I was more or less trying to wire it according to the established front already, though. Also, does anyone have a source forby umdpru - Delta Machines
solidworks is within reach for anyone if you know where to look ;-). I am lucky in that I have a legitimate home use license through work. It wasn't always that way, though.by umdpru - Delta Machines
Ok, thanks. I did buy the aluminum ones because I coudln't print perfectly round ones on my reprap'd MBI Cupcake CNC. I'm glad that you'd designed and shared these parts so that we can revert to belts if need be. I'll have to remix your effector, though, for a J-Head mount like I did John's.by umdpru - Delta Machines
Funky, I really like the hole for the end-stop screw. Adjustements for end-stops are a must in my opinion. I'm curious, though, as to why you decided to go with belts? Have you experienced any specific issues with spectra line?by umdpru - Delta Machines
Jerome, I have remixed Funkymonk's 3DR Simple Spool Holder to include mounting holes and captured nuts. These are used to mount a Ramps mounting frame underneath the spool holder. Here is the remixed spool holder: Here is the Ramps 1.4 mounting frame. Enjoy and as always, start with a Printrbot Simple, not from scratch as I did! Norman, I agree. I have found that Solidworks will impoby umdpru - Delta Machines
Exactly, print in a room with a climate controlled temperature suitable for printing. That, and a lot of ABS juice toby umdpru - Reprappers
FWIW, you should change the thread title now that things are sorted out or make it clear that it's due to DHL and not Panacutt.by umdpru - General
Here is a new (redesigned) end effector I made to mount a J-Head from TriDPrinting just in case you aren't starting from a simple, like I did. I suggest you buy a simple if you want to build this, it will be cheaper .by umdpru - Delta Machines
QuoteA2 For ultrafine particles, ionizing filters do a great job. They charge up any particles leaving the HEPA filter and catch them with the other electrode. ionizing filters create ozone which is not good for you. Read up on the Ionic Breeze Air Purifiers...by umdpru - General
I wouldn't print directly from a PC at all. Use an SD card. It's much more reliable. If you insist on running from a PC then you can use almost any PC as sending G-Code isn't demanding. Generating G-code can be, though.by umdpru - General
OI had this issue with my Ramps 1.4 board after accidentally shorting the nozzle heater circuit at the hot end. It blew out the trace on the Ramps 1.4 board and I thought all was well after soldering in a wire jumper. I turned on the board and the nozzle heater was stuck on. I swapped out the mosfet for the fan/second nozzle mosfet and it works fine. You blew your heater mosfet.by umdpru - Reprappers
awesome. I'm building mine now and I am referring your your's and Rich's site daily. I spent all day designing and printing parts to adapt a trid printing's J-head to your hot end holder. I need the J Head to stick out more than on Rich's holder design so I can mount a fan close to the J-head cooling vents. It helps with cooling for PLA printing.by umdpru - Delta Machines
John, Your website is down. Is it temporary? apruby umdpru - Delta Machines
the minimum layer time is there to allow for cooling of the just extruded material. If you keep adding more and more hot material in very short duration layers then you'll end up with a blob. If you disable the mimum layer time then you should implement forced air print cooling.by umdpru - General
I have found that my larger PLA prints lift off the bed only if the bed temperature is too high and the initial first layer temperature of the nozzle is too low. I also had MUCH more success printing PLA onto blue painters tape than I did printing it onto Kapton tape. What is your nozzle temperature? I print at 195 first layer then at 185 for all successive layers. My bed is at 70 for the firsby umdpru - General
Automatic bed leveling is the number one reason you should upgrade. I did it recently and I am certainly glad I did.by umdpru - General
Where is there an option to disable the servo while moving? I can only find a section pertaining to the axes, not the servo. Has everyone solved their twitching issues? My twitching is affecting the auto level routine.by umdpru - Reprappers
No, I was referring to the box you printed for it. I have the same lcds for ask of my controllers. Are you using ramps?by umdpru - Delta Machines
funkymonk, that looks awesome!! I just ordered all of the rest of the parts for mine. Waiting on the controller, smooth rods t-slot nuts and linear bearings. I may print some bearings on my Makerfarm I3 out of PLA to try out. What "thing" is your LCD box? I've been searching for a good one. What are the brackets you used to mount it?by umdpru - Delta Machines
I finished a slicing job recently on a large thing on slic3r 1.0 rc2 that took 8 hours. I have an older computer with Windows 7, 2.4ghz quad core and 4gb off ram.by umdpru - Reprappers
Hi all, I'm about 50% through the build of mine. I have the main frame completed and have begun buying most of the major mechanical parts (already have the 2020 bosch extrusions). My big choice now is what controller and what size filament I want to use. I have a BIG stock of 3mm filament becuse it's what both of my current printer use. Do you all think 3mm will be ok for this printer? I alreadby umdpru - Delta Machines
unbundle your wires and see if it prints ok. If it does then it means you were getting EMI (crosstalk) on one of your wires somewhere. If it doesn't fix it then we can begin narrowing it down. What you can try first is to swap around the x stepper driver with a different axis. I'm making an assumption that you don't have an all in one controller. If the problem follows the driver then you can sby umdpru - General