I find that although the temperature you enter in one box is copied to the other box, it doesn't change the set point for that temperature. But it's confusing, and I hope this will get sorted out in a firmware revision soon. btw I also couldn't get the "Send GCODE" function to work.by dc42 - Ormerod
Thanks, Ian! Sounds like I had better stick to mdf or hardboard for the tabs then.by dc42 - Ormerod
Thanks, Rory. I tried 190C and it was a disaster: Trying 210C now.by dc42 - Ormerod
I would like the manufacturer and/or Farnell part # for the 3-way header socket connector shell, so that I can replace the 2-way ones supplied with early kits for the hot end fan and y-axis endstop looms.by dc42 - Ormerod
I've done a few prints now but there is a consistent problem. When the print head moves (without extruding) between different areas of the print, PLA is sometimes still coming out of the extruder head. As a result it leaves lumps on the piece of work it is leaving, and fine threads connecting different parts of the print. This piece shows the problem, although there were originally many more filaby dc42 - Ormerod
QuoteRory166 Superb pictures, what sort of camera do you use? Galaxy S4 smartphone camera. It's a bit temperamental when trying to focus at short distances, otherwise OK. QuoteRory166 I suspect the MDF pieces go the other way up than shown in picture with cardboard. No, they go that way up. Like I said, the glass+alu+pcb+mdf is a bit thicker than the clips are intended for, but it did fit - seby dc42 - Ormerod
Rory, If I change the driver transistor for one with a higher Rds(on), then that Rds(on) will limit the rate at which the driver mosfet sucks charge out of the gate of the power mosfet to turn it off, and thereby slow down the turn-off. However, I now think it would be possible to cut the power mosfet gate leg and solder a 0603 resistor between the leg and the pad. By my calculations, a 100 ohmby dc42 - Ormerod
Reaper, thanks very much, that fixed it for me.by dc42 - Administration, Announcements, Policy
Hi Radian, I've been thinking about your suggestion of a snubber network, and I think a diode-capacitor-resistor snubber could work well. I've connected a flyback diode in parallel with my bed heater (see this post). The flyback diode stops the mosfet avalanching (which wasn't really a problem anyway), however it does nothing to avoid the transient on the 12V supply due to sudden cutoff of the 1by dc42 - Ormerod
Quotedroftarts @dc42: Is it just me, or does everyone else get "Image error, Running getimagesize() on the image data failed" on your pictures? They don't work in Firefox, Safari or Chrome on Mac... Ian RepRapPro tech support Hi Ian, I've solved the image error problem by only using links to my Dropbox public folder, and I've updated all the relevant posts that had this problem.by dc42 - Ormerod
I just checked the Duet branch of RepRapFirmware and found it was updated yesterday. I see the following changes: - 5ms start-up delay added - Support for commands M98 (call subprogram) and M99 (return from subprogram) added. So nothing very significant for most of us, except that the start-up delay should help those who are using the original SD cards.by dc42 - Ormerod
I would add to Ian's comments that I've only had printing stop unexpectedly once, and the mains power where I am has been a little flaky during the high winds over the past few days. Ideally I'd get a UPS, but that is beyond my budget right now. Hence one of my mods is aimed at improving tolerance of brownouts. The 3.3V supply on my board appears to be stable when the bed heater turns on/off, soby dc42 - Ormerod
1. I've just checked the 3.3V supply with a DMM across pins 2 & 3. It reads 3.28V whether the bed heater is on or off. So I think the apparent drop in the 3.3V supply on the scope when the bed heater goes off is caused by the fact that ATX supplies have the 0V line connected to mains ground. which unfortunately means you get a ground loop when you connect a scope earth lead as well. 2. Radiaby dc42 - Ormerod
Further to my earlier post regarding the noise I see on the 3.3V rail when the bed heater turns off, I disconnected the scope probe that I was using to trigger from the mosfet drain signal and nearly all the noise went away. So it seems that what I was seeing was coupling between the scope probes via the (short) common ground wire I was using to connect to the scope prove earth clips to pin 2 ofby dc42 - Ormerod
Quotedroftarts @dc42: Is it just me, or does everyone else get "Image error, Running getimagesize() on the image data failed" on your pictures? They don't work in Firefox, Safari or Chrome on Mac... Ian RepRapPro tech support Hi Ian, I've complained about it here.by dc42 - Ormerod
If I try to link to my images hosted on Dropbox, then in place of the image in my post I get an "Image error" message. Here is an example: I think this is because Dropbox links are https, and Phorum doesn't understand https. If I change the https: to http: then I get this instead: Is there a workaround? Can anything be done to allow images on Dropbox to work in these forums? I don't want toby dc42 - Administration, Announcements, Policy
Here are my photos of the 5V and 3.3V supplies when the bed heater is turned off (yellow trace is 5V or 3.3V, blue trace is mosfet drain voltage which I used to trigger the scope): This is after I did the mods I listed in my previous post. The 5V and 3.3V transients are not very different, so I believe they are mostly caused either by the scope probe and its earth lead detecting the magneticby dc42 - Ormerod
Radian, I attached a scope to my Duet board to see if I can replicate your observations. This is what I found on the mosfet drain: As you say, there is a 50V spike and the mosfet is avalanching. Here is the voltage on the 12V input, measure directly between the screw terminals: I don't see a 20V spike, the peak is a little under 14V. I did see a bigger spike when I connected the scope earthby dc42 - Ormerod
QuoteRory166 I would like to examine the circuit diagram of the duet but am unable to access through github, possibly due to my use of a Mac. Are you able to direct me to a copy? I need this to use my scope onth eboard to confirm your results are universal. Rory, if you PM me your email address, I'll email you the pdf.by dc42 - Ormerod
QuoteRadian I also thought you'd mention a snubber network across the load ;-) 1uF/10R seems about right 10R would be too low, 2R would be more like it, that would limit the peak mosfet drain voltage to 12 + (2 * 11.3) volts. But since we don't need to reduce the rise time of the drain voltage, just reduce the amplitude of the spike, a flyback diode is simpler and avoids increasing the turn-on tby dc42 - Ormerod
I've completed this mod and it appears to work well. Here are some photos. First, the 59p frame kit: After cutting 4 tabs from the slotted MDF: After lengthening the slots in the bed insulator to 30mm: After fitting the glass, heat spreader and mdf tabs together with the clips: After attaching the bed assembly to the carriage, using 20mm cap head screws and extra nuts: I found that I waby dc42 - Ormerod
The processor has a builtin watchdog timer that can reset the processor if it isn't kicked for a while. It should be a simple matter to enable this in the firmware, along with a status indicator to indicate whether the last reset was caused by power on, reset button, or watchdog. Ian, are there any forums where we can suggest improvements to the Duet firmware, and improvements to the Duet electrby dc42 - Ormerod
If the hot bed takes 11.3A then it deserves some serious decoupling caps right between the +12V feed to the hot bed and the source terminal of the mosfet. As opposed to no decoupling caps at all, as on the present designby dc42 - Ormerod
Arnaud31, just in case the problem is between the router and the Duet, it might be worth connecting the Duet directly to your computer, disconnecting the computer from the router, and manually setting the computer IP address to one on the same subnet as the Duet.by dc42 - Ormerod
QuoteRory166 The mains is full wave rectified and applied to two 470uF 220V caps, in series I hope, through a largish inductor, well thats a turn up for the books, since when was an inductor cheaper than adding more cap? The 2 x caps in series is a standard arrangement for 115V/230V power supplies. When running from 230V, the bridge rectifier works normally, giving about 320V. For 115V, a link iby dc42 - Ormerod
Radian, thanks for the warning about the 20V spike when the bed heater turns off. I haven't looked at my Ormerod with a scope yet. If the 20V spike on the 12V rail only lasts for a few hundred ns, then I suspect it is the result of power circuit inductance rather than the ATX PSU taking a long time to recover. The Duet schematic shows decoupling capacitors on the 12V line near the stepper driversby dc42 - Ormerod
I just spent 59p at The Range on a 10x15cm frameless photo mount. The clips are about 25mm long, 13mm wide at the widest point, and protrude about 8mm below the heater pcb. As suggested by Rory, I'll cut pieces out the mdf that came with the photo frame to put under the heater pcb so that I can lock the clips into the slots in those mdf pieces, and enlarge the cutouts in the bed insulator to suitby dc42 - Ormerod
In the Tools list: - I suggest you recommend having ball-ended 2mm and 2.5mm hex drivers, because there are so many screws and it would take ages to assemble an Omerod using just allen keys - Also useful is a spanner (5.5mm?) for the M3 nuts - I bought the calipers, but never found out what I was supposed to use them for - I also needed a 6mm drill to enlarge the hole in the z-nut trap, howeverby dc42 - Ormerod
In the final 3 photos on the heated bed assembly page, you have the board connectors at the front and the hole for the thermistor wires on the left. This means that the cutout in the cardboard for the connectors is off-centre. This in itself doesn't really matter because it still fits; however if you then line up the cutout in the heat spreader plate with the cutout in the cardboard, then the heaby dc42 - Ormerod
Thanks, 3D-ES! I was going to try to get it building under Atmel Studio, but if Eclipse has Arduino integration (which I wasn't aware of) then I guess using Eclipse will be easier. I'll give it a go.by dc42 - Ormerod