I replaced every plug, but after the next print it expired, on Christmas Day of all days. A search on Google, and a quick multimeter test and the culprit was found. The voltage regulator on the Arduino board had gone AWOL. I sent an email to Arduino (yes, its a genuine one - 10 months old) to see what the solution was but haven't heard back. I have therefore ordered another one, plus a Ramps boarby Wibbles - Firmware - mainstream and related support
It's definitely a dodgy plug somewhere. I just printed a part and the quality was way better than anything I have printed for months. I was amazed. I got all excited and clicked to print another identical one, and ran into endstop messages and prints hanging, just as they did before. I have now ordered a complete Ramps wiring kit with pre-assembled plugs and will replace all of them when they arby Wibbles - Firmware - mainstream and related support
I still have no idea what the problem was, but I pulled every plug on the boards, rerouted the cables while I was doing it, plugged it all back in again...and the problem has gone. No idea why one contact somewhere should suddenly decide it isn't going to play nicely anymore, but it obviously did. Phew....by Wibbles - Firmware - mainstream and related support
I still have no idea what the problem was, but I pulled every plug on the boards, rerouted the cables while I was doing it, plugged it all back in again...and the problem has gone. No idea why one contact somewhere should suddenly decide it isn't going to play nicely anymore, but it obviously did. Phew....by Wibbles - Smart_Rap
I posted this in the Smartrap forum but I am trying again here as Arduino/Ramp guru's may know where the fault is. Had my Smartrap for a year, been printing away quite happily, no problems no fuss. Today I printed one part, removed it from the bed. Set it to print the same part again, and the head goes through the self-levelling as normal, then moves to centre, as if to start printing, but thenby Wibbles - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Had my Smartrap for a year, been printing away quite happily, no problems no fuss. Today I printed one part, removed it from the bed. Set it to print the same part again, and the head goes through the self-levelling as normal, then moves to centre, as if to start printing, but then moves to x=0? I am not getting any messages on the lcd, I have no loose wires, it has simply started doing this, andby Wibbles - Smart_Rap
An old thread, but it came up in my search for how to do a 90 degree hollow pipe. I came across some incredibly complex code in the process, but reading this one it was the simplest but still not what I was looking for. Looking at the code I realised how simple this could be, so if anyone else is searching for how to create a 90 degree hollow pipe, here it is. If you want a solid one, just removeby Wibbles - General
I bought and assembled my Smartrap a couple of months ago, and the first couple of weeks were to be honest a bit of a headache. I knew nothing about 3D printers, and spent many hours trying different solutions to different problems. I print with PLA onto a cold glass bed, use a 0.4mm Alu Hotend, and print at 200 deg. Design is done in Openscad, Cura to slice. Printing is done via SD card and theby Wibbles - Smart_Rap
I did, lol, I like to have spares of everything, it's a bit frustrating when I can't print for the sake of a fault.by Wibbles - Smart_Rap
I just got the multimeter out. 4.94v at the thermistor pins on the board, but no temp detected. Started moving the detector end around and the room temp appeared. Looks like a broken circuit at the busy end, so will have to order another I guess. Cheers Robby Wibbles - Smart_Rap
After fixing my elusive Z offset, my Smartrap was printing very well again. This morning I decided to print something. It ran perfectly for 30 minutes, and then stopped. The error messages in Pronterface told me that Mintemp had been triggered. The LCD display says the same. I have removed the thermocouple and the thermistor from the hot end. LCD says room temp is zero. I have unplugged theby Wibbles - Smart_Rap
After a bit of faffing about, I got it figured out at 3.40, though perfection would be 0.01-3 higher. Just had it printing at 220% print speed and back to the excellent print quality. I can't thank you enough for your assistance, I would have been pulling my hair out over this one. Many thanks Robby Wibbles - Smart_Rap
Quotedjinn5150 m114 will pump out the distance its traveled since the printer was initialized. Well I may be barking up the wrong tree, but I set the 'paper height', unplugged the printer, plugged it back in again, and then got the M114. It was 0.00? I sent M555 = 0.00 and the nozzle is on the bed. I am assuming that when I power down tonight and switch on again tomorrow that everything will reby Wibbles - Smart_Rap
Quotedjinn5150 Well your close, First lets get this out of the way...pick either the m555 or the z-offset in the host software...not both. I always just use the m555 and thats it. Ok, I have set Pronterface Z Offset to 0. QuoteMy method to set Probe height is as follows Run G28 X0 Y0 Then I G1 X100 Y100 (Replace the xy cooridinates for your bed center) G30 ( this will probe the bed 1 time)by Wibbles - Smart_Rap
I had this running perfectly yesterday, but today not so good. Something has always puzzled me, I will describe where I am, and perhaps someone should tell me where I need to be? Ok, I am using Pronterface and Cura. I tried Slicr but it didn't give good results. Yesterday Cura gave me what I was looking for. I have disabled the 'use integrated Slicr' in Pronterface. All slicing is done via Cura.by Wibbles - Smart_Rap
Some of you may already do this, but for anyone who suffers from this problem, I though I would relate my experience. I was having problems with filament clogging up my hotend. I searched on the net and it seems to be the most common problem with 3D printers, and most people seem to go through the chore of letting the hotend clog up and then stripping things apart to remove the solidified gunk uby Wibbles - Smart_Rap
I can only say that I have been using it straight onto glass, simply wiped a few drops over the glass with a sponge, let it dry for 5 minutes, and printed. The parts came straight off with minimal pressure and the surface that was on the glass had a totally flat gloss finish. Easy job to quickly wipe the glass with airbrush cleaner to remove any residue, everything comes straight off, recoat, anby Wibbles - Smart_Rap
Hi Dan That's not a problem, I understand that the terms may be confusing, there was a picture of the parts in my post. There are only 4 parts. 1. Bowden tube union at the top 2. Cooling fins 3. Hollow threaded rod that feeds the hotend 4. Hotend at the bottom It is the hollow threaded rod (3) that has broken, there is a narrow area that has no thread, it is called a 'heatbreak' on the manufacby Wibbles - Smart_Rap
Dan I had no choice, I had to take it apart to get the filament blockage out, I didn't say that they were Chinese, I said I was looking for spare parts so that I could replace the broken throat and replace the union at the top. I will take a look at the site that you have mentioned and see if they can help. It is perfectly ok to dismantle an extruder assembly, my search led me to many sites thaby Wibbles - Smart_Rap
Hi Dan I have looked around on the web, and I may be wrong but it appears that the threaded rod has a section without thread, this goes at the bottom to act as a heat break between the hot end and the cooling fins. On mine it was at the top, which was where it had broken inside the finned section. If it should have been at the top then the heat was allowed to travel up the threaded section, thrby Wibbles - Smart_Rap
Just to add to the previous message, is the hotend threaded section supposed to be in two parts? I have a long section that the finned section screws onto, but there was a 5mm section that fell out of the top when I removed the filament tube holder. I can't figure out whether the short section should be seperate or not?? Regards Robby Wibbles - Smart_Rap
Hi Dan Ok firstly, here is a pic of my probe, nothing very clever but it works perfectly and made it a lot easier to set up. The other pics are of what I printed just to show any passing viewers that the quality is good. Then there is a problem I encountered after printing them. The filament became completely log jammed in the hotend feed cap, where the blue push fit for the tube locates. I tby Wibbles - Smart_Rap
Hi Dan It took a bit of figuring out, but considering that I have never been near a 3D printer before in my life before this week, I got there. The bed levelling works, and I have a set of Gcode buttons across the bottom of the Pronterface screen that allow me to send individual commands to the printer, should I ever need to. I did a test print and it was square, small holes were round etc. Tby Wibbles - Smart_Rap
Hi Dan I only mentioned it as my guess was that anyone who was used to RC kit would do what I was about to do and go buy a servo extension lead to run down to the box and just plug it in. Ok, I now have this whole thing up and running, just had to make a few adjustments to the print speed (50-60), filament feed and speed, and the nozzle temp (190). I printed one of the parts from the files thaby Wibbles - Smart_Rap
If you are going to be attending this year (2015) could you post something up? I may well be there with a radio controlled tank club (Bristol Armoured Division) and have just built a Smartrap, so it would be good to chat to people who have brains I can pick. RobGby Wibbles - West of England RUG
Hi Dan I see that the servo is white/red/black, which is signal/live/negative. The pins on the board are marked signal/negative/live. When I plug the servo in the board shuts down, so as the board pins are in a different order I will need to cross over the +/-. It might be an idea to mention this in the manual as others may not be aware without looking at the board. I build 1/16 scale radio contby Wibbles - Smart_Rap
Hi Idanut First of all can I compliment you on the build manual. It was incredibly easy to assemble the kit. I have never built a printer before but I had it all assembled in appx 12 hours. I even threaded the plastic with an M3 thread cutter for extra security on each M3 bolt. Everything fitted perfectly. The wiring took another 5 hours, but this was only due to assembling the Dupont plugs wiby Wibbles - Smart_Rap
Well after abandoning the Linuxmint option (a bit of research revealed that it is not a simple process due to baud rates etc), I moved to my Windows pc. I deleted all Slicr, Repetier and Arduino software, then ran CCleaner to remove any registry entries. I reinstalled all three. I ran through the setup for each one, including running Arduino and selecting 2560 as the board. Installed the iniby Wibbles - Smart_Rap
One other question, if I want to run it from the SD card, what do I need to copy onto the SDcard to allow it to function without being connected to a pc?by Wibbles - Smart_Rap
It was sold as being supplied with the firmware already installed, but is there way to check, if this may be causing the problem?by Wibbles - Smart_Rap