QuoteDevil Inc Quotemarkts After witnessing some "play" in the Y belt, I installed a spring tensioner. It seems much better, so I started a 2 hour print. About 20 minutes in I heard a strange sound and found the bed had shifted. I thought the belt slipped because it started printing basically off the bed (on the side away from the endstop). Something must have bound up, so I tried removing thby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
Well I've just spent several hours tracking down what turned out to be a really simple issue. My prints were not adhering any more, so that soon after the print started the filament pulled off the bed and ended up in a sticky mess on the nozzle. I tried tons of things: higher first layer temperature, different bed temperatures, and more. The answer: the blue painters tape was worn out. Printing oby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotemarkts That's interesting - I was looking for something to print to tension up the Y-axis belt. Mine is definitely looser than I'd like - I can move the bed back and forth without moving the motor. I don't see any impact on the print, so maybe I shouldn't worry? How did you add tension springs? I hooked them over the top part of the belt near to the X carriage and under the bed, with a bby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
Nice! I don't know about the voltage to the bed because I think that come straight from the power supply. For the steppers, you can adjust the voltages by turning the tiny potentiometers on the left of the PCBs. Use the non-conductive tool they supply. The manual for the older Folger model shows how to measure the Vrefs, but do it really carefully - something I did when I was trying this blew upby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
I found an answer to this in a very old thread: . My end gcode was moving the head away and turning the motors off. You have to issue M400 first to let the buffers clear. Problem solved.by animoose - Printing
Here is a G code change that may be helpful. I was finding that my printer would miss out the very last part of the top layer, as in this . The print head moves away, and does the last few motions in the air. An old thread here (http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?151,222772,224437) has the answer: issue a M400 command in the end G code to flush the commands. I also found that my printer would stopby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
It looks good in the preview in Repetier and it has happened on multiple files, including ones from a widely used calibration set. So I think it isn't the file. I'm fairly confident Slic3r is done. I watched is closely on the last couple of runs and it looks like this: - slic3r prints the top layer - when it's almost but not quite done it moves the head away and then makes the last few zig-zag mby animoose - Printing
QuoteJoeH I was toying around with lower temps for PLA last night. I had a somewhat complex part to print as a "how fine can I get" test, and I was having issues printing it. It had lots small details and needed lots of supports that were not supporting! I started with 0.05mm layer thickness, and went up to 0.1 with the same results. ... Anyone else have this issue? What bed temperature did youby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
I've noticed that several of my test prints have a small triangle on the very top layer missing. You can see it quite clearly in the nearest corner of both cubes here . The printer gets to very near the end of the run, then lifts away and stops. I've noticed that it moves the head a short distance from where it was printing, then makes the motions it would to draw the last few parts of the corneby animoose - Printing
I was trying to print this today. After about 14 minutes of the estimated 44, the printer just stopped in mid movement and would not continue. The only way I was able to get control back was to turn it off and exit Repetier host (both of these - kill print, emergency stop, and just turning it off alone didn't do it). Any ideas what could have happened? I've done prints that take longer than thiby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
One thing I don't like about the design is the use of metal bolts to attach the electronics. I wonder how many failed boards are the result of the bolts shorting something out. I currently have my boards held on using cable ties. Then I had a great idea: print plastic bolts! Unfortunately my printer is not quite up to it: . Not so much a bolt, more a case of what Doctor Who might call a wibbly-woby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
I found 195C was about the limit for the sample filament, and 185 has given me good results with their PLA and PLA from another source. Bed temperature at 70 for both of these, which I am beginning to think is fractionally too high. On another thread, I was also given some recommendations about changing the infill percentage (http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?262,522465,523213#msg-523213). I'veby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
Interesting. One difference yesterday is that I had a ceiling fan running while I was doing the prints. I'm not sure I believe that it could really have made a difference, but perhaps tonight I will try prints with and without it running and see what happens.by animoose - Printing
QuoteJamesK Still pla or a different type? It certainly looks better. Still PLA, just a different brand. How much does ambient temperature affect printing? It was a bit cooler yesterday evening.by animoose - Printing
I ran out of the sample filament today and so started using a spool of PLA bought from Amazon: . One problem I had is that I could not get it to feed, but this turned out to be because of a small burnt lump of the old filament, which fell out when I took the extruder apart. I had another go at the 1cm solid cubes I've been doing the last few days and the results are looking pretty nice now: . Thby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
I tried printing the cube again this evening with the same infill settings and 185C, but using a different filament (JET) as I had run out of the original sample. And the results look pretty good: .by animoose - Printing
Quotemottihoresh I think I might have fried my RAMPS board, While I was adjusting the z axis end stop, I accidentally shorted out the end stop pins with an alen wrench. The board does turn on, but while connected to the mega, the computer doesn't recognize it. Is that a perminant damage and should i get a replacement? or is it fixable? It may be the RAMPS or it may be the Arduino. I didn't do eby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
Heh, sneaky :-) I have some spare fans lying around, so I'll see if I can hook one up.by animoose - Printing
Thanks for the suggestions. I'll try them when I get home. Sorry about the quality of the photos - with such a small piece it's hard to arrange the lighting right.by animoose - Printing
Try increasing the voltage for the extruder motor a bit. I don't recall what mine was set to but I don't think it was much more than this. Too much and it will make a different kind of chunk-chunk-chunk noise. Another possibility is to take the extruder assembly apart and make sure that the grooved wheel is on the correct side. Mine was assembled in a different way to the one that the constructioby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
I'm new to this so I'm not sure which settings are relevant here. I've attached a config.ini exported from slicer.by animoose - Printing
Sorry, somehow I lost it in editing. I just added the link to the original post.by animoose - Printing
Looks like my last post got swallowed, so I'll try again. Here's today's prints. I know they aren't much to look at, but to me this is pretty exciting. First: same 10cm cube as yesterday, at a lower temperature. Good apart from the top layer Second: 20x20x10x0.5mm thin wall test at 190C. Wah wah. Then again at 180C. Much better apart from a little separation in the top half.by animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
Does the filament come out? Earlier in this forum, I described some problems I had because the extruder was assembled differently to how it is shown in the manual. What do you mean by a binding noise?by animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi, I'd like to tap your collective wisdom for improving a print. I am using a Folger 2020 i3, with PLA. I don't know the make of the PLA - it is the sample that Folger sent with the kit. This picture shows the result of four print runs for . The leftmost one is for the setting that Folger gave: bed 70C, extruder 219C. Everyone tells me that's too hot and I guess that's why the top half collapsedby animoose - Printing
QuoteUnshockable You found me out! I'm an electrical engineer. Me too, before I found that software involved less risk of things going bang. QuoteUnshockable I'll try them in this order: 1, 3, 4, 2. I don't have a spare RAMPS board, and the lousy ones are $30 on Amazon. I'm in Canada, so there's a lower selection of parts. I really recommend the one I mentioned a few posts back. It was verby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
I really think the MOSFETs on the RAMPS board could be the problem. You've proved the extruder and the wires that go to it are good. Here's a couple of ideas but please not that this is pure speculation. I guess from previous posts that you are pretty engineering-savvy, so you can judge for yourself if you want to try them. 1. Attach the extruder to the middle set of connectors on the connectorby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotewidespreaddeadhead Quoteanimoose Success!! I printed a 10mm calibration cube (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:667281) and here it is (https://goo.gl/photos/Gv8T4RPxkmQn9TRaA). The X and Y dimensions are quite accurate, at about 10.5mm. The top collapsed, and I could see from when it was about 80% done that the sides were becoming uneven. Could this be due to running it too hot? The Folger sby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
Success!! I printed a 10mm calibration cube (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:667281) and here it is (https://goo.gl/photos/Gv8T4RPxkmQn9TRaA). The X and Y dimensions are quite accurate, at about 10.5mm. The top collapsed, and I could see from when it was about 80% done that the sides were becoming uneven. Could this be due to running it too hot? The Folger setting use 219C for PLA, but Devil Incby animoose - Prusa i3 and variants
This shows a LED. Have you checked for 12V coming in? Obvious, I know, but we've all had our moments of measuring the noise. Failing that, I'd vote for a failed MOSFET on the RAMPS board.by animoose - Prusa i3 and variants