I think I will get this 12v 33a 400w psuby deaconfrost - General
thanks for the info, I would guess I will need a new psu soon, before I went near the psu, it was set by factory, but it wasn't giving 12v to begin with after few months of usage, it measured 11.8v when it is doing nothing, when under load, it dropped to 11.1v, I turned it up to 12.3v and a month later it dropped, so its been dropping since day one. that might be where all my problem came fromby deaconfrost - General
I don't know what's the effect, but for another reason, my bed couldn't keep above 100c for abs during print, I upped the voltage on psu to 13.5v not bed is holding 110c during print, extruder stepper also stopped skipping, printed out a small gear, large gear, extruder block at 0.2mm layers at 40mm/s speed, not a single click... trying 60mm/s on the idler.by deaconfrost - General
Quotebryanandaimee Sounds like the problem is on an extruder? You might also check and make sure the nozzle isn't partially clogged. Nozzle was checked and cleaned. I can push plastic through the nozzle by hand easily. Not really sure where the problem was but so far it's working. Finger crossed.by deaconfrost - General
Yes I have different color but they match up to diagram to pins. The part printed without a single click. I post up image tomorrow. The support came clean off easily and the part is very clean so it wasn't running too hot, these pla are rated 190 to 215c. I printed the part at 208c. Manual extruded 100mm without skip at 2mm/'s. Max print speed was 40mm/'s I will do more testing tomorrow I alsoby deaconfrost - General
I've checked those this morning, they all good, just 10 mins ago I notice the bearing is jammed, I changed it out to a new one, now manual extrusion at 2mm/s feed rate no skip, if I was to hold the gear on the motor shaft, I can make it skip, not sure how strong they meant to be, if it was or wasn't suppose to skip if you hold the gear on the main motor shaft p.s. I also loosen up the the screwsby deaconfrost - General
the spare driver is doing the same thing, I think I get a pololu drv8825 to replace it, do I need to change them all or can I just change the E driver to drv 8825, rest are a4988by deaconfrost - General
I recently bought a new nema 17 42mm x 48mm, I have StepStick A4988 drivers it was ok for a few days but still skipping steps, and now it just skip on anything, adjusting current has no effect, motor just has no torque at all whatsoever, even with current adjust to the point just before it makes lots of noises and no movement, it still have no torque, I measured 1.2v at that point, but no torqueby deaconfrost - General
Yep problem is in the configure.h on ends top. You have only min endstop but firmware is telling the printer there are both min n max.by deaconfrost - Printing
I will have a look in to the stepper driver tomorrow. Strangly lowered the temp and the problem went. Didn't think I was running hot. 240c on abs. The pla are rated at 190c to 215c and it's running smooth on 190c. A while back I couldn't run it at those temp. I figured it when I retract the filament to check the hotend the pla was swelling a bit.by deaconfrost - Printing
I'm using A4988 Stepper Driver yea one of my z threaded rod keeps getting a bit of click, replaced them both, was fine for a week, than started again, I am looking at upgrading all axis to lead-screw setup, the smooth rods are good while I had them out while changing the threaded rods would it be the stepper driver issue, I have a spare one I could try out, it just started clicking now in the mby deaconfrost - Printing
thanks for the info, I go browse around for a better extruder design, I just put in the new stepper, upped the current from old motor setting, not really sure if it is running what it should, it doesn't even feel warm to touch most of the time, I might doule check on that before I look in to another motorby deaconfrost - Printing
as title says, could any expert tell me is there anymore improvements on quality and speed can I get out of my setup? this head is printed with 0.1mm first layer 0.2mm, the body was printed with 0.2mm all layers, the stand was printed at 0.35mm layers rest of the settings print speed 40mm/s travel 150mm/s first layer 20mm/s outer perimeter 15mm/s inner Perimeter 40mm/s infill 40mm/s overlap 15by deaconfrost - Printing
i forgot to come back to this, what lines was i suppose to be posting?? oopsby deaconfrost - Printing
heres 1.1 I configured for Folger Tech i3 its not that big Marlin 1.1 Folger Tech i3by deaconfrost - General
I'll attach 1.1 when I get to my laptopby deaconfrost - General
you should be able to do home x y first then 0 Z at 0 position or anywhere you move the z after x y been home, I can drop the z anywhere I like once I home x y first then move it around and drop wherever, but at least you got t to print that's good newsby deaconfrost - General
yep thats what I did to get my nozzle right at the bed after probing, adjust in z offset Z probe out. bed means your offset is set wrong, either x or yby deaconfrost - General
Oh crap I'm sorry I did have a type on G20 instead of G28 on my last reply on one count. But still doesn't make sense that nothing moves..... But there should be no problem if you home X Y then G29... Just a note though, yesterday morning, my custom G-code in sli3r dissappeared on its own.... When I click start, it didn't auto level, went to check the problem and found the custom start code wasby deaconfrost - General
your config looks fine, 1.0.2 don't have #define Z_RAISE_AFTER_PROBING, I tried it before I use 1.1, I use repiter and slic3r aswell, I was using cura first but slic3r seems to do a better job on my prints, in sli3r here's my G-code for ABS G21 G90 M82 G28 X0 Y0 G28 Z0 G29 G1 X0 Y0 F4000 G1 Z.2 M104 T0 S100 M109 T0 S230 if you still have trouble, I would say give 1.1 a try, all settings same asby deaconfrost - General
which marlin you using? I'm using 1.1 maybe try 1.1 I tried other version this is the only one worked best for me here's my config you can maybe you find something useful, or attached your configuration.h and I have a look for youby deaconfrost - General
I post up the lines in configuration.h when I get to my laptop, on mobile now.by deaconfrost - Printing
-10 on y should move to you and +10 move away from you and the endstop at front near you, also make sure they are plugged in to correct place, with board standing up, 12v wires at bottom, the 6 rolls of pins for endstop, second z, 4th y, last x. Those are the minium endstop connection so when you home the hotend, it triggers and know it's 0 poaition, invert y stepper in firmware and move endstopby deaconfrost - Printing
I see the endstop for the x axi on the right and I think I see the z axi endstop below that one, but I can't see where the end stop is for your y axi, This i3 has z axi on the top, it depends onwhich direction the motors are running, when you using manual control to move the motor, are they moving the correct directions? When you click right, hotend should move to its right, show when you lookinby deaconfrost - Printing
its fairly easy if you are familiar with firmware, I've done it on my Folger junk i3 in couple hours, the whole setup took me a day as I was upgrading hotend, converting to bowden from direct, replacing the boards, belts, rods, heatbed, almost completely rebuild it, but the auto bed level part took little of those time Prusa i3 auto bed levelingby deaconfrost - General
I print directly on borosilicate glass at 70c after first layer 55c, nothing else needed, I can print abs directly as well at 105c plus, I did get it to print at 80c once but that was just a wrong setting on thermistor with glu stick I can print abs anything above 90cby deaconfrost - General
Just notice you have the same printer as me, except mine has been upgraded away from Folger junk, I configured the firmware using marlin 1.1 with auto bed leveling enable from scratch, I can send you my firmware with bed leveling disable and it should work for you then. If the assembly was done correctly.by deaconfrost - Printing
Glue stick works very well for me with abs bed at 100c till finish, but I can print straight on glass with nothing and still get it to stick, by the way are you using glass or just the bed? If it is just an aluminum bed and it is peeling at the same place every time, I suspect your bed is bended while adjusted and heated. I had that problem so I bought a new glass.by deaconfrost - Printing
The hotend is the first thing to replace, just in my case other bits broke shortly after it was in operation, but it never printed anything like it does now,nowhere near. Stock Folger Tech is garbage I do agree, and I was told by a friend that these guys don't even have the basic understanding of voltage and amperage, kinda explain why these printer kits are so poorly put together along with a nby deaconfrost - Printing
add in your g-code after g29 G1 X0 Y0 F4000 G1 Z.2 the second bit G1 z.2 brings nozzle to 0.2mm from bed where the probe measured, and it start print from there if your first layer is also set to 0.2mm I also see in your config, your probe is only 0.1mm from nozzle, its not that bad really, how far is the nozzle from bed when it starts to printby deaconfrost - Printing