Hi, after two years of printing on an unheated bed, I decided it is time to upgrade, to print bigger parts out of PLA and also print PETG. Now I have a bed of 420x420x8 mm tooling plate, which will require quite some heat. I bought a 1400W 220V silicone heater and isolation foam. The heater comes with the sensor, but I feel it won't measure the plate surface temp correctly. I think I need to driby HugoW - General
Hi, finally after converting my MKS junk board to Marlin 2.0, I have a very well functioning printer. It spits out PLA by the kg / pound / mile / km (as prefered) and it's fast, acurate and it makes me and my kids happy. But, now I notice my old PLA stack is getting too old and the stuff printed becomes brittle and unusable. I print RC car parts and the parts printed a year ago now crack easy unby HugoW - General
Hi, up to now, I just had the printer home X and Y when done, but I noticed the print head marking the finished print and I had some ooze upon start-up, so I changed some things: Start g-code: G1 Z5.0 F300 ; Move the platform down 5mm G28 X0 Y0 ; Home XY G1 X50 Y50 F6000 ; Move to safe Z-home location G28 Z0 ; Home Z G29 ; Autoby HugoW - Printing
I decided to go with the DRV8825 drivers I had laying around. Works great at 1,5 amps, just a standard little heat sink and decent air flow through the controller housing. My machine is nowhere near as cumbersome as yours, mdejong1970, so my guess is your machine cannot be handled by the TMC2130s either. You might get them to work by reducing accelleration and jerk to almost zero, but I built myby HugoW - Printing
Hi, I would like to know how and where the current settings for the DRV8825 drivers are defined. I cannot find a default setting anywhere, I can find this on the configuration_adv.h. page but I cannot figure it out (I just don't understand it): I changed line 581, the number of channels, to 5. I changed line 584 to have 5 variables, and set the first two (my guess is X and Y motors) to 1.5Aby HugoW - Firmware - Marlin
Hi, I have built a CoreXY machine which untill last month ran on an MKS SBase controller (fake SmoothieBoard). I think the machine is mechanically healthy, as I printed some tests with 150 mm/s print speed and 250 mm/s travel speed. OK, so the result was not perfect but no lost steps, no problems, the mechanics survived. I did go to kevlar reinforced belts as the normal cheap Chinese ones didn'by HugoW - Printing
Well, I don't get it but I am relatively happy. I replaced the inductive sensor with a micrco-switch, like the switches I have on the X and Y axis. Used all in Marlin with pullups and inverted and it all works. The Z sensor is not in the correct position to actually be usefull, but it works. Both G28 and G29 do what they should. What I don't get is why the unschanged way I hooked up the inductiveby HugoW - Firmware - Marlin
Thanks for the reply. I checked all with M119 and all homing sensors say open and triggered when they should. But just to be sure, I am hooking up a mechanical end switch (identical to the X and Y sensors) tomorrow, to temporarely replace the inductive sensor. If that does not fix it, I am replacing the RAMPS and Mega. I did notice today, while replacing the TMC2130 with A4988, the Z driver cameby HugoW - Firmware - Marlin
Well, I've pretty much given up. I hate this. I've tried a gazillion Marlin settings and today I even replaced the TMC 2130 drivers with basic A4988 drivers. Wrote a fresh new Marlin, uploaded, it all worked. And then it started failing again, first a little bit and it is progressively getting worse. Here is what it did earlier this afternoon: Now it just freezes when I ask it to home. With Maby HugoW - Firmware - Marlin
Hi, with a lot of help on this forum and some tinkering I got my RAMPS 1.4 (24V) with TMC2130 V1.1 stepper drivers and Marlin 1.1.9 working. As sensors work, all axis and the extruder move as they should. Homing X and Y works (no sensorless homing, yet, just micro switches). Z has an inductive sensor, sensing the alumunium plate bed, and that works too. But I have trouble homing the Z axle whenby HugoW - Firmware - Marlin
Well, that was a boring afternoon. The issue of the extruder is fixed, I fitted a different stepperdriver and now it works. I also think I know the enable issue is not an issue. Marlin keeps enable at false, until you call for the axis (or extruder) to move for the first time. Then enable becomes true and it all works. The issue now comes down to the homing failing. I made a little gcode printfiby HugoW - Firmware - Marlin
Nothing seems to fix the rather random problem. - I lowered the currents (maybe it overheats...). No change, but I'll leave it low as the machine moves nicely. - I changed from 16 to 8 microsteps (BTW, you don't need the jumpers. You can leave them off and define the microsteps in the configuration_adv.h. And off course correct the steps / mm in the configuration.h) I hoped it would make the proby HugoW - Firmware - Marlin
Well, some progress was made but not everything is working. - I cannot extrude. Everything is up and running, it seems, but the stepper motor of the extruder won't turn. I also see upon start-up that Marlin echoes to Pronterface: "Filament settings: Disabled". But I don't know where to enable them. - Another problem is that the communication with the TMC2130s is not stable. I start the printerby HugoW - Firmware - Marlin
Because of the speed limitations I would like X and Y to go to 8 microsteps as those motors are 0.9 degrees, but I'll figure that later... Now first switch the motor plugs and tune eveything so I can print a new spool holder that just snapped off... Hugoby HugoW - Firmware - Marlin
I just thought the same thing, while eating my pasta. I changed it to 16, changed the steps / mm settings accordingly, and fitted the 3 jumpers under each driver. Nothing changed. But then I put the ENABLE_ON all back to 0, and we have movement! It all moves the wrong way so I need to invert some motor plugs, but it moves. Thanks! Hugoby HugoW - Firmware - Marlin
I just started the RAMPS without the 24V power on, just USB: SENDING:M122 X Y Z E0 Enabled false false false false Set current 800 800 800 800 RMS current 1436 1436 1436 1436 MAX current 2025 2025 2025 2025 Run current 25/31 25/31 25/31 25/31 Hold current 6/31 6/31 6/31 6/31 CS actual 0/31 0/31 0/31 0/31 PWM scale 0 0 0 0 vsense 0=.325 0=.325 0=.325 0=.325 stealthChop false false false falby HugoW - Firmware - Marlin
Hi, thanks for the quick response. I have soldered the SPI wires from the drivers to the pins on the connector for the LCD screen: SDO on the drivers to port D50 MISO CS goes to the before mentioned ports D40, D41, D44 and D64 SCK on the drivers to port D52 SCK SDI on the drivers to D51 (MOSI) I just changed this in the Configuration_adv.h following your comment: */ //#define TMC_USE_SW_Sby HugoW - Firmware - Marlin
Hi, after fighting a 32-bit Chinese controller for a year it finally decided to even blow some mosfets, so I now upgrade my printer to a simple RAMPS 1.4 on 24V with TMC2130 V1.1 drivers. Should be nice. I set everything up, all sensors and the hotend are working. Now I need the axles (and the extruder) to move. But they refuse. I went through the Configuration.h (besides the usual settings forby HugoW - Firmware - Marlin
Well, after the above input I just had yo give it a shot... So I certainly have signals coming from the RAMPS being processed by the MKS TFT32, I don't know how I can test if it also works the other way around, without having the RAMPS connected to a printer. I hope the stepper drivers and other bits and bobs will arive soon. Hugoby HugoW - Firmware - Marlin
I already replaced my Mega's voltage regulator with an LM7805CV, rated for 1,5A (and it can take 24V). And I have the same result when I power it over USB, with plenty of power over the 5V available. I measure 4,988V on my mulitimeter, I doubt 0,012V makes it go wrong. I just made this clip but they cannot see it in China so they think I am pulling their leg: At 1:17 you can see there is someby HugoW - Firmware - Marlin
What Z-sensor do you use, that measures / reacts to the force? Thanks, Hugoby HugoW - General
Well, it looks like the backlight is well adjustable, but the graphics just aren't clear... Hugoby HugoW - Firmware - Marlin
Well, I just tried all solutions in de linked topic, to no avail. I also measured all voltages everywhere I could, they are all OK. I think I have a faulty LCD... Bummer... Hugoby HugoW - Firmware - Marlin
That's what I feared, that potentiometer does next to nothing. The video shows it in it's most optimum setting, in only gets worse if I turn it the other way. Hugoby HugoW - Firmware - Marlin
Hi, my new screen, the famous RepRapDiscount Full Graphics Controller, is unreadable unless you check at very specific anlges: Is it a setting on Marlin I can change to fix this? The potmeter on the bottom of the board doesn't seem to do anything. Please advise. Cheers, Hugoby HugoW - Firmware - Marlin
Ah, OK. Thanks. I'll start another topic on my LCD smart controller, then. Cheers, Hugoby HugoW - Firmware - Marlin
Well, min came with an SBase board, which I fought for a year and now I go back to the trusty RAMPS. If it indeed does not work with the RAMPS, I put the smart controller back on. But my smart controller has so much backlight I cannot see the wording on accept for at an angle. I don't really care which one is on there, as long as I can print from SD or USB stick. The printer is stand alone in theby HugoW - Firmware - Marlin
Thanks! I'll go and try the baud rate and serial port. My RAMPS is powered by 24V and I kept the diode in place, so that also feeds the MEGA. I replaced the voltage regulator with a 7805CV, which should be able to provide 1,5A. I have a TFT3.2, which I think doesn't have the jumper to chose external power. If it really doesn't handle the power I need to cut the wires and feed it separate. Hugoby HugoW - Firmware - Marlin
Hi, I are many people hooking up a tft screen to the aux1 of a ramps like board. I connected mine but it doesn't light up or function. What should I change to the firmware? Thanks, Hugoby HugoW - Firmware - Marlin
Hi, I am converting my DIY CoreXY printer back to RAMPS (1.4, 24V) and I bought TMC2130 drivers. I would like to use the sensorless homing but I worry about the forces. On the X and Y axis I think the frame and belts will cope with the head running into the frame to home, but my Z-axis is driven by two 8x2 spindels together on one NEMA 23 motor. I now have an aluminum tooling plate bed but I woby HugoW - General