It seems this soft/collapsible enclosure (reportedly made of "vinyl"), with a zipper-sealed flap for the access door, can sufficiently seal the enclosure, such that a fan can then generate enough negative pressure to prevent interior fumes from being detectable outside the enclosure. A review for that enclosure states: QuoteThis couldn't have gone better. I needed an enclosure for my CR-10V2by qrp-gaijin - Safety & Best Practices
Unfortunately, a quick glance at the recent changes on the RepRap wiki indicates the problem is continuing -- two more new spam accounts, two more spam pages about patio furniture. Perhaps it would be wise, at least for the time being, to implement harsher restrictions, such as preventing new users from creating new pages?by qrp-gaijin - Administration, Announcements, Policy
It's a pity, but it seems that these recent user accounts look like spammers and all follow the same pattern: a stock phrase like "My name is and I am ": And that last account also created another spam page: It seems the RepRap wiki is the target of some specific spammer who keeps creating accounts and wants to sell patio chairs...by qrp-gaijin - Administration, Announcements, Policy
How should spam pages on the Reprap wiki be handled? I noticed a new spam page at created by the new user MKWBeulah02 .by qrp-gaijin - Administration, Announcements, Policy
Quotedc42 If you would be satisfied with extracting 95% of fumes then I expect that design can be made to work. If you want to extract 99.99% of fumes then you will need something better. Thanks for the reply... I'm heading out to the hardware store now to scope out what materials are available. What do you see as the weaknesses (that account for the approximately 4.99% difference in fume extracby qrp-gaijin - Safety & Best Practices
I print in PLA and was thinking of building a simple fume hood from a large corrugated cardboard box. It would look similar to this: The box would sealed on all sides (except the bottom) with duct tape. The bottom of the box would be open. The box would then be lowered down from above to cover the printer. A hole in the top of the box would accommodate the fan, which would draw air out of theby qrp-gaijin - Safety & Best Practices
QuoteDust Most (not all) extruders (the part pushing the filament) also cannot do both 3mm and 1.75 The 3mm tooth profile is wrong and often to large to grab 1.75. My hot-end upgrade is done and working now. Yay! I finally have dragged my 9-year-old printer into modern times with a 1.75mm-capable hot end. I still had to use the old 3 mm hot end to print out a new plastic holder (in PLA) that wby qrp-gaijin - Reprappers
I have some questions about assembling a V6-clone hot end: 1. Is it correct that the threads on the cold end of the heat break should be coated with thermal grease, and the threads on the hot end of the heat break should be coated with anti-seize compound? 2. My hot end came with no thermal grease, so I bought some thermal grease intended for use on CPU heat sinks, to apply on the heat break thby qrp-gaijin - Reprappers
Thinking back on the behavior of the printer just before the resistor started to fail, I may have noticed a behavior that was indicative of the impending failure: occasional large sinusoidal temperature swings (with period of a few seconds) during printing. When I first installed the resistor, it worked quite fine without any PID tuning and held the temperature well. But some hours (measured inby qrp-gaijin - Reprappers
I'm seriously considering changing my Portabee (a Printrbot variant) with a direct-drive extruder, into a Bowden setup. It looks like the simplest way of doing this is simply to unmount the motor from the X-carriage, leaving only the hot-end on the X-carriage. The question, then, is if and how to secure the unmounted motor. I saw one Printrbot conversion to a Bowden setup here: . As you canby qrp-gaijin - Reprappers
Quoteleadinglights For simplicity, and because life is too short to argue, I think that you should use a heater cartridge. In true RepRap fashion, I plan to use the printer to upgrade itself. I have four more resistors on hand that fit my current heater block. I can swap out the faulty resistor with a new one, and I guess a new one should last for maybe 20-30 hours of printing. Then, I can buyby qrp-gaijin - Reprappers
Quoteleadinglights I will be interested in how well your silicone resistor holds up although I am a little skeptical as the vitreous enamel ones can be driven to a red heat for some time before failing but I don't think that the outer insulation on a silicone one would take it as well. For the past few days the hot end has been unable to maintain a steady 180 degree temperature. It climbs to aroby qrp-gaijin - Reprappers
QuoteClaghorn Anyone know of a command line tool that can generate a .jpg (or png, etc) from a .stl file (obviously it would need to know the angle of the view to produce)? It also needs to know how far to place the camera from the object, so that you don't get an extreme close-up of one tiny corner of your part, or a zoomed-out view that is filled with mostly empty space. If you want to do itby qrp-gaijin - General
Woo hoo, the heated bed seems to be working now! The little LED (D4, right next to the connector for the heated bed) on the board lights up when I turn on the bed heater, and the bed temperature graph in Pronterface slowly but surely increases. During my failed test yesterday, I was playing around with the PIDTEMPBED define, so maybe I messed something up with my configuration. Also, yesterday'sby qrp-gaijin - General
QuoteDust Check for continuity in fuse F1 Fuse F1 and F2 (located at the lower-left corner of the connection diagram) have continuity as measured by a multimeter. Connection diagram: Just to confirm I'm not being stupid here: is it correct that the J11 connector (labeled with "H-BED") is a voltage output node intended to power the heated bed? Again, I am always getting zero volts measured acroby qrp-gaijin - General
I am setting up a new MKS GEN L V1.0 board with Marlin 2.0, and have everything working now except the heated bed. A multimeter shows 0 volts across the bed heater terminals. I defined TEMP_SENSOR_BED to be 1 in Configuration.h. Pronterface seems to show correct data from the bed thermistor. But the bed heater never seems to turn on, even after I set the bed temperature in Pronterface. My power sby qrp-gaijin - General
Quotectkjose Also the ATMega2560 on clones (even Arduino Mega2560 clones) have poor protection of their IO pins, so they are a tad more prompt to damage. Damage from what? Static electricity?by qrp-gaijin - Reprappers
My MKS GEN L v1.0 board finally arrived, and I was immediately able to upload my self-compiled Marlin 2.0 onto the board, with no hassles. I was happy to see that I could upload firmware and test the endstops without needing to connect the 12V power supply -- the power supplied over the USB cable was sufficient to power the microcontroller. Next, I want to test the motors, which will require theby qrp-gaijin - Reprappers
In attempting to backup and restore the firmware on my gen6.d board with avrdude and the USB connection to the printer, the board is now in a state where it no longer works and Pronterface cannot connect to it via USB. I am getting various sync errors whenever I try to upload anything to the board with avrdude or with the Arduino IDE. I think the fundamental problem is that I have no programmerby qrp-gaijin - General
Quoteleadinglights I will be interested in how well your silicone resistor holds up although I am a little skeptical as the vitreous enamel ones can be driven to a red heat for some time before failing but I don't think that the outer insulation on a silicone one would take it as well. According to the datasheet, there are two types of resistors: type U and type V. Type U can supposedly withstanby qrp-gaijin - Reprappers
This 3 watt, 5 ohm, 4.7 mm diameter, silicone-coated, wire-wound resistor (Vishay RS series, RS02B5R000FE12) has been working fine for a couple of hours now: Image: I wrapped a bit of aluminium foil around the center of the resistor to make it fit the 5 mm-diameter heater block more snugly and lightly adjusted the set screw to push the resistor against the inside wall of the heater block. Whby qrp-gaijin - Reprappers
I have a working 3D printer, but need to replace the 4-pin connectors that connect the stepper motors and the controller board. The reason is that I am buying a new controller board and the old connectors won't fit. For the new board, I plan to use 4-pin DuPont connectors. To make things easy for myself (I thought), I bought some pre-made 4-wire cables with DuPont connectors. I failed to consby qrp-gaijin - Reprappers
Quotectkjose Hi, The RAMP1.4 wiki pages were updated, since you going through this fresh experience any feedback will be appreciated... RAMPS1.4 Wiki Thanks for the tip. I ended up ordering a MKS GEN L V1 board. Will my experiences with the MKS GEN board be relevant for the RAMPS 1.4 wiki page? I guess MKS GEN is in fact just an integrated Arduino+RAMPS solution?by qrp-gaijin - Reprappers
Quoteqrp-gaijin separate Raspberry Pi (which I am already using to drive the printer anyway) could use a thermal camera to periodically take an image of the hot end and/or printer surroundings, and physically (e.g. via a relay) cut off the mains power to the printer if an abnormally high temperature condition is detected. It seems that there exists a $50 IR sensor (AMG8833) with 8x8 pixel resolby qrp-gaijin - Reprappers
QuoteDust // Use temp sensor 1 as a redundant sensor with sensor 0. If the readings // from the two sensors differ too much the print will be aborted. //#define TEMP_SENSOR_1_AS_REDUNDANT #define MAX_REDUNDANT_TEMP_SENSOR_DIFF 10 Thanks! Great to hear that this feature already exists. I'm ordering a new controller board (MKS GEN L V1.0) and plan to flash my own firmware, to make sure that allby qrp-gaijin - Reprappers
I think I only need the gears to mesh "correctly enough" so as to prevent generational degradation, meaning that: The printer should be able to print its own replacement gears (Wade's extruder gears, in particular) with sufficient accuracy to allow the printer to continue operating with at least as much precision as before the repair, and The printer should be able to print new parts with sufficby qrp-gaijin - Reprappers
If the thermistor fails or gets disconnected from the heater block, thermal runaway can occur. I am interested in having multiple fail-safe mechanisms in place to detect this situation, and also to detect any overheating or smoke. For example: Firmware: I think Marlin has the capability to check of the thermistor readings seem inconsistent with the expected temperature given the assumed state oby qrp-gaijin - Reprappers
A 2014 discussion seemed to conclude that a wire-wound resistor could be safer because it likely cannot reach the high temperatures that a ceramic heater could, meaning that in case of thermal runaway, a resistor would be less likely to cause a fire: . Another 2014 post indicated that a 20W ceramic heater cartridge should self-limit itself to 300 degrees Celsius, reducing the possibility of a fiby qrp-gaijin - Reprappers
I found an interesting summary from 2013 of some stability characteristics of various RepRap setups in one user's page at the RepRap wiki: While I have my Portabee disassembled for maintenance on the hot end, I'm taking the opportunity to physically align and tighten the axes as much as possible given the simplified "two sticks" frame, and then do some tests to determine the best print qualitby qrp-gaijin - Reprappers