I am printing ABS, I have experimented with the extrusion amount offset in Slic3r, added a fan, am printing at a lower Z-resolution, and am using a different gear model that does not taper up at the bottom. The print looks a lot better; the problem of the gears lifting has disappeared, but there's still some inconsistency in the layers, and the hole is printing a little too small to fit on the mby ghobbs - Printing
Circles and squares look great, but my printer is having serious issues printing gears. The teeth of the gear easily distort and tend to point upwards (toward the print head) while printing, and the end result is lopsided and wobbly, and a poor excuse for a gear! There are also some small blobs spread around the surface of the gear. Here are some pics of the print. After perusing the troublby ghobbs - Printing
waitaki: That did the trick! I did what you suggested and the resistance went up by about 1 Ohm, and now my bed seems to be working perfectly! Thanks for all the help!by ghobbs - Controllers
Hmm... I removed the PCB heatbed and it still reads the same resistance as before; I also inspected the mounting holes visually (they're close but not obviously problematic) and by testing with a multimeter I didn't find a short between the electrical connections on the heated bed and any of the mounting screws. I had a resistor and LED installed before but cut them off to try and eliminate poteby ghobbs - Controllers
No; this is my multimeter. Does this mean my heatbed is shorting out? Should I return the multimeter?by ghobbs - Controllers
Just realized my multimeter reads 1.1 Ohms when I short out the probes... I guess this means I have a defective multimeter? That would also explain why I measured the resistor at about 1 Ohm higher than its label.by ghobbs - Controllers
Interesting; I checked though and mine do not short out. I just checked my multimeter though on a 10W 4.7 Ohm flameproof resistor (that I got to load the 5V rail on the PSU) and it read 5.6 Ohms; maybe my multimeter is not accurate enough and the PCB resistance is actually substantially lower than I measure. On the other hand, maybe it's the resistors that are a little off...by ghobbs - Controllers
Yes, the hot end heats up and gets hot enough that the thermistor reads 230 degrees and it can melt ABS. No problem with that so far. I'm not sure I understand what you are suggesting that I try; am I right in thinking that the heated bed should work fine when connected to +12V and ground directly to the power supply? I mean it wouldn't be able to regulate the temperature, but it should at leaby ghobbs - Controllers
I am using a 450W power supply. The resistance on the PCB measures at around 1.1 Ohms both at the point of connection with the PCB and at the ends of the wires that connect with the power supply / RAMPS. I have measured 12V output on the appropriate RAMPS connector. I have tried powering on with a DVD drive connected to put a 5V load on the PSU. The power supply refuses to come on whenever itby ghobbs - Controllers
The filament is 1.75mm, so it sounds like it's a 3mm Jhead. Thanks!by ghobbs - General
My J-Head doesn't seem to be working correctly; it takes a lot of force to get the plastic to go through, and all I've managed to get through is maybe 1-2mm. I've looked around for images to confirm I was sent the right J-Head size but haven't been able to find anything that would answer my question. I'm suspicious because the hole in the top of the hot end is a lot bigger than the filament. Iby ghobbs - General