Running a custom X carve, basically. My Y positive direction is in the "wrong direction" and was wondering if anyone could point me in the direction of where in the firmware to change this... it's the last big problem keeping me from running the machine... Arduino Uno, GShield, UGCS Edit: a little light on details, sorry: due to the shop setup, I want to have HOME in the back right corner, and tby PBZ - CNC Routers, Mills, and Hybrid RepRapping
Hey guys, turns out my settings were wrong. Now that I can actually use my machine, the next couple problems have arisen. The first: I need to switch my positive direction on my y axis without flipping the direction go home. As far as I know, this means I need to look at the arduino code and reflash the code? Can anyone point me in the right direction here?by PBZ - CNC Routers, Mills, and Hybrid RepRapping
the one volt variance is total, so 1/2 up, one half volt down from 5. and i meant that is just interference- a physically activated switch should drop pretty close to zero i think. so my bad signal therefore is not interference? because i only just got around to testing the interference and finding it not worth worrying about, i dont have pull up/downs on my lines. this might change depending onby PBZ - CNC Routers, Mills, and Hybrid RepRapping
As the topic says, my hard stops are always "on". When homing, everything works fine, but as soon as it completes the cycle and pulls off, UGCS throws a hard stop error and locks everything up. I stuck an oscilloscope on the wires and there is only about 1v total variance in the lines, not enough for my issue to be caused by the interference? Does anyone have any ideas on what might be causing aby PBZ - CNC Routers, Mills, and Hybrid RepRapping
No value set in the offset in slic3r. Checked (most?) of the obvious stuff first. Also, as mentioned, its affecting code that has been working for months, so i figured it was probably the printer?by PBZ - Prusa i3 and variants
Going nuts trying to figure this one out... After running fine for months, the Z axis on the Prusa i3v is now starting too high up above the print bed. I have re-leveled several times, but it does not help. This is affecting not just new prints, but code made months ago that has always printed fine. Slippage in the rubber tubing joint between motors and lead screws would lead to a lowered head, nby PBZ - Prusa i3 and variants
More than a year later, I'm back. Oops. So it turned out to be a combination of things. The first was that the USB cable was failing intermittently. The second was that the air conditioner would kick on and make the entire house power level fluctuate (I didn't notice this one until moving the printer to the basement and I can hear the AC on the other side of the wall). The third was that the laptby PBZ - Slic3r
Not sure where to put this question, but it deals with the slicer soooooo... Having some issues with a particular print, solved the warping thin edges by moving the print head out to a point and pausing for 5 seconds between layers. Problem is that the head is oozing on its trip. This has evolved into the print having a little string sticking out wherever the head gets back to the object- and itby PBZ - Slic3r
my first tip for others with bed leveling and parallel issues is a little hotglue. the zipties that come with the kit for the i3v do not keep the endstops anywhere near the same place. my Z axis wavered by almost 2mm before glue. second tip, through some hotglue into the rubber hose that comes with the kit to connect the z axis motors to the rods. this will firm everything up and give the rods sby PBZ - Prusa i3 and variants
Ive got an i3v, and i am having to re-level and adjust the bed and X axis gantry after almost every print. The left side of the x gantry wont stop moving up during prints, making it non-parallel with the bed. the right side has stripped the plastic connector that the rod threads into. My Z axis endstop wont stop moving around either, but im going to fix that with some glue instead of this kit zipby PBZ - Prusa i3 and variants
Ill try printing from the card. That's another problem to fix... Ill update with what happens.by PBZ - Slic3r
This was an occasional issue but never really bothered me before because i wasnt doing 7+ hour prints. i tried both the ones that failed, in just those sections and they worked fine. Im guessing right that its something to do with an electrical spike. I havent had any issues using Proterface/USB printing, and i have yet to have the printer do what it is supposed to when i upload code and print fby PBZ - Slic3r
I have edited the two files into new gcode files containing the fail spots. ill test them when this print gets done. thanksby PBZ - Slic3r
How would I go about 'dry running' a section of code that takes place 30 mm up (point of failure)? I don't have any cats in the house, so I can rule that out. I have a few other things plugged into the same outlet as the printer, but during this print they were all turned off. Thanks for the reply. Update: I am printing another model, and it too randomly froze, around the 42mm layer. Pressingby PBZ - Slic3r
I have a Prusa i3v, running Marlin, with a RAMPS board and G interface. I slice with slic3r and use Pronterface to run the prints. Ive had several prints now that get started, but when i come back (sometimes hours later) the hot end is melting itself a hole in a random layer just sitting in one spot maintaining temp. The screen on the printer says 'waiting for user', but if i push that it returnsby PBZ - Slic3r
Make sure your plugging the ribbon cables in the correct way on the board. I just had the same problem myself. plug EX1 into EX1 on both boards, same with EX2. the ribbon side of the connector should be towards the main board, not coming in from off the edge.by PBZ - RAMPS Electronics
I am printing a cylinder for a pistol (for cosplay). The bottom, print wise, of the cylinder has a ridge running around it. In this section, the % infill works fine- see picture, base layers on the right. Once the printer gets up a few layers and the OD of the piece gets a little smaller again, slicer is turning to solid infill for the rest of the piece- everything between the chambers and the ODby PBZ - Slic3r
I have a new Prusa i3v built and sitting on my desk. Uploaded firmware, disconnected it from the computer, plugged in the graphical interface, and plugged the board back into the computer as per instructions. The lcd screen lights up, it beeps, and then it shuts off. It then repeats. It will cycle like this over and over as long as it has power, about twice a second. Anyone have some ideas? editby PBZ - Prusa i3 and variants