Quotethe_digital_dentist You need to output a higher resolution STL file from AutoCAD. There should be some options available. Awesome thanks I didint know there where options...Googled it and it works nicely now. These are the steps in case anyone might need reference. [3dprintingsystems.com] AutoCAD: All models exporting should be 3D body, instead of just being surface, and all the XYZ coby Ralphy - Printing
Can anyone offer insight on how to make objects print perfectly round instead of faceted? This is a round object exported out of Autocad as a .stlby Ralphy - Printing
Quotethe_digital_dentist Speed control is the default for the rotary encoder after whatever you used it for last times out. Just turn the encoder and you'll see the speed indicator on the screen go up or down. It usually takes a few seconds before the machine responds by actually speeding up or slowing down. I dont have the "rotary encoder" is that the lcd display? I only have the Repetier andby Ralphy - General
Quotejbrunk I know the fan had been working originally because i remember playing with the settings for it and using the gcode to turn it on and off. But at some point it appears that fan has completely seized up. Never even noticed since I figured it was off due to the auto cooling. I set a small desk fan up to see if that made any difference and printed 2 prints off last night perfectly!!by Ralphy - Prusa i3 and variants
I print fine with the Factory setupby Ralphy - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotelunarkingdom Have you tried turning the print speeds up in slic3r? Im not sure how to do that, Dan over at Folger told me it could be adjusted even during the print. Where exactly is the speed control?by Ralphy - General
Quotegforce1 Connect a lcd with sd card slot to your ramps. Sent or copy via your slicing program the sliced gcode to your sd card. On the lcd you can than run the print from the sd card. You can also adjust some settings from your lcd, like homing, speed and temperatures. Ok sounds good, I wasnt sure if it was a plug and play thing like you mention.by Ralphy - General
Are you powering up the fan 100 % before turning on the hotend and maintaining it at 100% during the print? You need to be sure that fan is blowing at all timesby Ralphy - Prusa i3 and variants
Well, I am no expert but I do recall they had issues when the laser would cut too fast with the lens cracking. I'm sure the gurus out there know a lot more about power cutting speeds and ventilation needed. Later this month if my budjet permits I would love to back it and add it in to my arsenal of creative open source equipment. I do wish you the best!by Ralphy - Laser Cutter Working Group
Check my thread i went crazy with z axis issues on the same printer. it was a bad driver.by Ralphy - Prusa i3 and variants
i just finished a build recently, it jamms when the bed is too close to the extruder nozzle. do you hear it going click click click when it jams?by Ralphy - Prusa i3 and variants
I love this, how are you resolving the exhaust issue. I recall the machine we had back in the school lab had a dedicated exhaust system to remove smoke. They also had issues with the laser lens getting damaged. Its a cool project and congrats on exceeding your goal.by Ralphy - Laser Cutter Working Group
So I am noticing some of my prints take 10 hours or more , can anyone point me in the right direction as to how the sd card reader works so I dont have to run my laptop throughout the print. I have a prusa 3iiby Ralphy - General
I learned that the hard way and it was very frustrating QuoteVanbot Quotechromecarz00 QuoteEcky Get one here: Docs on google drive Got it, thanks. Now the motors don't stop when hitting the end stop and make the belt skip, nothing moves except when hitting the home button in repetir manually, extruder has never been turned on but shows at 308.7 degrees C. Ideas? From my experience buildingby Ralphy - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteggherbaz You are correct. Good luck and let us know your progress. Dam the x axis ran itself to the end opposite the end stopper sensor and the belt started skipping printing a simple 1 x 1x1 inch cube.... Folger included a spare driver so let me try it out after calibrating it. PROBLEM SOLVED BAD DRIVER. They included a spare in the kit and I calibrated it and installed it and revertedby Ralphy - Printing
Quoteggherbaz QuoteI guess its micro stepping at 16x with the 2031 setting.....weird No, it means that the problem might be in the driver itself or in the signal sent from the board. Now it will be a good time to swap drivers with another axis and test. If the problem is in the driver, wherever you move it too will show the issue if its stays in Z then a reflash of the firmware might be recommeby Ralphy - Printing
COOL its a4988's so on the z axis driver MS1=4.97v MS2= 4.97v and MS3= 4.97v all other drivers are same values for MS1 2 and 3. I guess its micro stepping at 16x with the 2031 setting.....weird QuoteJamesK You can check the voltage at the pins on the stepper driver. Are you using A4988s? If so, MS1, 2 and 3 should all be high for 16x microstepping (according to ). If MS3 is low that will explby Ralphy - Printing
So I double checked vref volatges and they are right on .35 on the z board. How weird....any other way I can check if im getting the 16x stepping vs the half stepping?by Ralphy - Printing
The z axis rise is not making the noise now with the 2031 setting but it did before with the 4000 setting. Ok so I pulled the driver board and measured all 3 jumpers and they are providing continuity and they appear to fit correctly as far as sizing. I separated the ramps board from the arduino and the solder joints look good to me. See detailed pic attached. Folger offered to send out new ramby Ralphy - Printing
Jim, That info is much appreciated. The z axis always acted funny, for example when i try to manually move it via the Repetier controls any more than 1mm at a time it makes a weird nasty noise like "errrrrrrrr" almost as if the motors are stuck and after a couple seconds it stops trying without any effective movement. So lifting the z axis was a pain because you have to do it in 1mm increments oby Ralphy - Printing
Quoteggherbaz You might have no problems since most generic layers can be achieve with half stepping, but it might end causing you problems when you get to set ABL. Whats ABL?by Ralphy - Printing
Quoteggherbaz The problems is this: a 1.8 degrees stepper takes 360/1.8=200 steps per revolution, if you micro step you got 16 micro steps per full step so 200x16=3200 micro steps for a full turn. A full turn of an M5 screw is 0.8mm so for 1mm you need 4000 micro steps. A 2031 is most likely half stepping at best. So I confirmed I put in all 3 jumpers on the board, thats not the issue. Why is iby Ralphy - Printing
Quoteggherbaz If that print came out of 2031 instead of a 4000 range number and your printer have M5 threaded rods, even though it looks great it's not micro stepping right and you might be loosing quality. Check your ramps board under the Z axis driver for all the jumpers, you should have 3 for full micro stepping. Yes that is the 2031 setting, I am currently doing a print and cant pull the zby Ralphy - Printing
well it always printed kinda loose vertically, with the new setting its a remarkable improvement. Im really grateful for everyones help. Check out the pic of before and after...i also stepped the temp up to192 on the pla.by Ralphy - Printing
The prints z axis error is about twice. A 2" tall obeject prints out 2 15/16" As far as the marlin firmware goes I was reading last night that you dont have to run the marlin firmware from folger tech. in the image attached this guy talks about downloading the latest firmware but doesnt mention where he got it. Any pros or cons in the quality of the print by going with better firmware. I have yby Ralphy - Printing
Quoteggherbaz That's right, don't get disappointed if you are still off after the first calibration. It took me few test prints to get it right. Print also a big hollow cube, don't calibrate only with small parts. Ok I will print a 2"x2" x2" cube. Its only that "4000" value that needs to change?by Ralphy - Printing
Quoteggherbaz Measure your part, if your old steps are for example 80 and your part was supposed to be 10mm but came out 12mm, you do 80X10÷12 the resulting value will be the new steps per mm value that you need to change in configuration h file. Is this it? // default settings #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80,80,4000,90} // default steps per unit for ultimaker {78.7402,78.7402,200*by Ralphy - Printing
Quoteggherbaz In your firmware or LCD screen if you have one. Its a simple rule of 3: actual steps X desired distance ÷ actual distance = new step value. You can put in on the motion selection in the display or in firmware configuration h file. I dont have a lcd screen. The firmware I have is ARDUINO and the only file the instructions ask to upload from Folger Tech is a folder called Marlin_RAMPby Ralphy - Printing
Quoteggherbaz Calibrate your Z steps per mm Ok cool thanks but I need a little more guidance? Is this done is Repetier?by Ralphy - Printing