That,s not bad,Zerker, mine cost around $540nz for the whole kit,incl.freight. Having said that,I now have a non-working nozzle heater.I also broke the nozzle thread off,after cleaning it,and refitting to the block. Heavy in the hand and light in the head.I managed to drill out and retap the block,but the nozzle is toast. I guess it,s that old story,you get what you pay for.But to be fair,most ofby clogs51 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
I've got Pronterface and sli3cr installed on my win 7 laptop now,and noticed that Pronterface mentioned the firmware as being Marlin 1.0.1. Is that a fairly recent version?I tried reversing the x and y axes by putting in -200mm movements,but this didn't work. There must be another setting to be changed. That said,the new setup printed 2 key rings without any trouble.I'm going to try something bigby clogs51 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Goshdurnit,now the laptop i was using for the printer has packed a sad.I will have to use my other one which has win7 on it. And of course,Migbot flatly refuses to run on it.I have downloaded Pronterface,so with a bit of luck,that will get me back on the road. Co-incidentally,the last thing i printed(a 40mm fan holder) stopped at 97% completed,but the printed time was at 00.00.Weird. Maybe that wby clogs51 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Well,whaddya know,I cleaned out the nozzle once again,and gave the blue tape a light sanding with 400 wet n dry. 2 perfect prints,the 3rd one a miserable failure.It seems i can get a maximum of 2 prints before having to clean out the nozzle. Not that it's a big job with a small lpg torch,but a bit of a nuisance. I have also realized why the x and y axes overrun their travel when starting.They musby clogs51 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Yes,i looked at the ramps set up,and i probably will change to that before too long.But I wanted to make it do some work first. I was going to get this lot: It would save a bit on postage to get the whole shebang at once,and i don't think the price is too bad. After doing a bit more surfing,I realize the Migbot software I've got is a bit lacking in options. Once my bank balance settles a bit,I'mby clogs51 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
I wasn't aware the z motors were supposed to be in series.There was nothing in the instructions to tell me.I do indeed have them in parallel. Anyway,I did manage a small print this morning,but when i tried printing the same item again,it started pulling off the bed again. I covered the bed with blue painter's tape. I 'm thinking half the trouble is the nozzle.I cleaned it out before doing the 1stby clogs51 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
I just read the bit about using a torch to clean out the nozzle.Will try that.but just in case,is there anybody in nz selling .4 or .5 nozzles? I looked through the nz suppliers list,but none seem to have the one i need.by clogs51 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
I have moved one of the bearing holders on the Y-axis to hopefully negate the overrunning.But I'll still have this problem on the Z. My first few prints went fine,now it's all gone to sh*t.It looks like the nozzle is scraping the bed,because it tears the kapton tape. I have levveled the bed so many times,i'm seeing stars.I simply don't seem to get a consistent level. It's pulling the print off onby clogs51 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Please forgive my ignorance,Dust,but what's a "m119"? The software is "Migbot".It does have an option of testing the endstops,but this doesn't appear to be working. The chap i bought my pla from gave me some extra switches,so i'll test the ones on the machine,and replace if there are duds. I'll have a look at the connections on the board too.Thanks guys.by clogs51 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Printed my first part today,a new Y-idler bearing holder thingy.I'm quite surprised how smooth the part came out,I expected it to be rougher. But for some reason,the end stops just don't seem to be recognized.When starting the print,the bed gets pulled right to the end, but the motor keeps running for a bit,rattling the belt over the pulley. This happened on X and Y axes,Z is fine..Also,the printby clogs51 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Got printer finished,and now working through set up.Should the 2 fans on the extruder be running from the start?Mine are not. Only the power supply fan is running.Also,the Migbot program doesn't seem to recognize the end stops while calibrating,yet when levelling the table, everything seems to work as it should,i.e. checking each corner in turn. I had to remove the plastic shroud that directs aiby clogs51 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Finished mechanical assembly today.The only problem was the y-axis end stop not contacting the sliding frame. I made a little adapter plate out of 1/8th plexiglass scrap,moving the micro switch about 15mm further towards the sliding block holding the acrylic frame plate. The instructions at this point proclaim"you are success".Woohoo. Wiring up next.by clogs51 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Wow,they're VERY special,at that price!Oh well,hope they stay in 1 piece.by clogs51 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Yes, the nozzle is a separate part,so it would be easy to swap. For a reason i can't remember,I had to measure the thickness of the acrylic. It seems to be around 7.5-7.6mm,rather than the 8 I thought it was.Maybe they size it with the paper on both sides included! We'll see how well(or how badly) the extruder works,I can always get a better one later on. All in all,I'm quite surprised by the quby clogs51 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Didn't get much time in the workshop today.Assembled the extruder and x-axis .I have no idea if this is a common extruder,or something the vendor dreamed up.The filament goes in the hole,and is then drawn through by the brass gear running in a close fitting semi-circular channel. As you can see on one of the photos,I left out something,causing the distorted look of the fan and heatsink.I actuallyby clogs51 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Thanks for that,Dust,I'll get some smaller washers. So if I unstand you correctly,the python stuff is no use to me?Odd thing to put on the cd then..I'll have to download Marlin. I see what you mean about the belt adjustment.I've tracked down a pla idler block on thingiverse.Guess that will be my first print. Back to the batcave.by clogs51 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Fwiw,the videos on you tube are a godsend.Without them i'd be up that famous creek without a rowing implement.by clogs51 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Done a bit more assembling today,and after several mistakes,due to the "chinglish" instructions,I now have a frame sitting upright,and the sliding bed mounted. One thing that bothers me a bit is the y-axis idler.It's just a bearing between 2 washers,and if i tighten the nuts enough to hold the bearing,there is of course no turning movement to run the belt on. There is also no provision for adjustby clogs51 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Checked the chip,it,s a 1284p,so i'll give it a go.The firmware is Python 2.7.2.It's dated 2011,so might be a bit old to be useful. anyway,i'll get on with building the printer first,and worry about the rest laterby clogs51 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Thanks,Dust,i'll have a look at the chip in the morning.There's a bit more stuff on the cd,so maybe the firmware is in there somewhere.by clogs51 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Since i'm not building a mendel90,i thought i should start a new thread. I've had a closer look at the controller,and it appears to be a Melzi Ardentissimo v.1. These boards are reputed to be rather poor,incomplete,or shorted tracks being some of the complaints. Should i just bin this thing,and get something better? There's no point in using it if it's going to do nothing more than give me grief.by clogs51 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Received the printer kit today.First impressions are favourable,although 1 acrylic z-axis motor side bracket was broken in transit.I've emailed the seller for a replacement part. Rods appear to be nice chrome steel,and straight.The threaded rod looks vaguely like SS,but i can't be sure.Some stainnless steel varieties are magnetic,so who knows? The acrylic pieces appear to be cnc cut.Nice job. I hby clogs51 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
I'm in christchurch.It's the stationery warehouse.Optimists,it seemsby clogs51 - General
AS someone who has just ordered a 3d printer kit through aliexpress,I have to support the view that if it wasn't for the bottom end suppliers,many people like myself wouldn't have a show of getting into 3d printing. I went through the rigmarole of pricing components from various individual suppliers,and found I couldn't build a Prusa i3 for much less than $1000US.Because of my location(new zealanby clogs51 - General
I know there is no detailed information about the parts you mention,zerker,and the power supply doesn't worry me. I have a server power supply ready,which will give plenty of power for this sort of use. There's a chap on trade me selling them.A little bit of soldering is required to make them start, but i'm sure if you can build a 3d printer,you can do a bit of soldering.by clogs51 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Having had a good look at parts cost,I decided I'd get a complete kit like this: I might have saved 50-100 bucks buying parts myself,but I was not confident that i could marry them all together,and get a working printer at the end. It'll be wait and see to gauge the quality of this kit.Projected shiping time is 5-10 days,so I'll clear a space on the benchby clogs51 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Just as a (late) thought,the glass from a pc scanner is usually tempered.How do i know? I tried to cut a piece.Not a dog,s show.The next day I found shattered glass all over the car and garage floor. I must have weakened it by scoring,and this set up some enormous pressure wave in the glass,causing it to shatter. Therefore,the scanner glass is only useful if it fits your use without cutting.by clogs51 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Hi all.I'm considering the Mendel 90 as my first 3d printer build.I notice some reference to a "sturdy".Is this an updated version of the mendel 90,or a completely new ,separate printer? I'm currently not in a position to buy the whole kit,so I'm planning to buy the required pieces when i can. Where do i find the location of all the holes on the sheet parts? Is anyone in nz printing the plasticby clogs51 - New Zealand RepRap User Group