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Ahh great, simple as that - thanks for looking into it, now it's working perfectly
by
chrishamm
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Ormerod
Hello,
I'm trying to use some custom end g-code allowing me to wait for the nozzle to be cooled down to 160°C, so I can clean the nozzle easily. I came up with this g-code, but I'm afraid M116 doesn't wait for the lower target temperature to be reached (perhaps because the heater is not active when waiting for the temperature to drop?) :
M104 S200 ; initial temp setting
M116 ; wait for temperat
by
chrishamm
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Ormerod
Wire your fans parallel, then it should work. It doesn't matter if you connect it to the Duet or to the Duet's 12V power source, but be careful with the FAN0 output. IIRC, this FAN0 connector is 5V only, so I wouldn't drive two 12V fans from it, since it might kill the Duet's 5V supply. I personally use it with a 4-pin PWM fan only, so M106/M107 works for me. The connector you're looking for shou
by
chrishamm
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Ormerod
Heh, adding more compensation code is not a big deal, but I personally wouldn't be satisfied with that solution. Using the 623 bearing on the x carriage as a switch in combination with X axis alu replacement parts would be a much cleaner approach IMO.
My bed is completely level, too, but today I've noticed my nozzle is sagging a little during X movements - that's the next point on my never-endin
by
chrishamm
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Ormerod
The firmware can do it - I've checked that already. But at the moment a major problem for me is the X rib, because the distance between the switch and the rib seems to vary depending on the current X position. I think this should work better with an alu X axis/rib, though.
by
chrishamm
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Ormerod
I'm using a Cherry DC3 microswitch for the X axis, which even has a blade on top, so I don't need any extra mounts for the X motor bracket.
by
chrishamm
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Ormerod
I agree it would be the best way to parse the g code while uploading, but you would have to incorporate the acceleration values to make the estimation somewhat accurate. Another option would be to estimate the time left based on the current line in the g code, e.g. by making M110 echo the current line number. Doesn't Pronterface report the current progress this way when printing over USB?
by
chrishamm
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Ormerod
Thank you, it's really good to see the firmware is becoming more and more mature I'll try it as soon as my current print is finished.
by
chrishamm
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Ormerod
Looks nice, good idea mounting the Z endstop switch on the hotend. I think I'll modify my x carriage once more and add a mount for another switch, too
by
chrishamm
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Ormerod
Looks good When I assembled the hotend for the first time, I didn't quite know where to put all the cables, but the new documentation shows everything quite nicely. Axis compensation is the most difficult part IMO, so I'd really appreciate some improved instructions.
by
chrishamm
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Ormerod
Yep, I just took a look at the firmware and you'll have to disable the IR probe to get the microswitch to work properly. Your wiring looks okay, but ensure you're using the right switch type.
Remove lines 917-918 from Platform.cpp, recompile the firmware and the microswitch should be recognized, even with the IR probe turned on
by
chrishamm
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Ormerod
Ian, thanks for your comments. In my opinion, some upgrades, such as the replacement Z and extruder gears, don't need to be included in the official RRP kit. It might be a good idea to point people reading the official Ormerod documentation to a list of all community-driven upgrades, though, since it is getting a little hard to follow all community-driven upgrades (especially for new-comers). I d
by
chrishamm
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Ormerod
Check out . I run my Ormerod at 13V and this works fine.
by
chrishamm
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Ormerod
Eww, this happened to me several times when I was using the old RRP firmware, sorry to hear that. What firmware version are you using and did you have any chance to collect some debug information?
My printer settings currently look like this:
I always print my pieces with Honeycomb fill pattern. For big parts I usually set the fill density to 20-25% and for smaller parts to 30-40%.
by
chrishamm
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Ormerod
Hello Ian,
ever since I got my Ormerod kit, I've been fighting countless issues. After the first two weeks, I was very close to throwing it out the window (or returning it), but meanwhile everything is working better and better. And because it is open-source, it allows me (and other users) to modify both hardware parts and the firmware, which is really great IMO. I didn't know much about 3D print
by
chrishamm
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Ormerod
Hello everyone,
I'd like to present some new Ormerod upgrades I've made over the past few weeks, and I hope they are useful for other Ormerod users. Feedback is always welcome.
This is basically the second part of my ongoing Ormerod modification.
Bearing mount for the Z rod
I believe the X axis was moving a little left and right when moving up and down, so I've come up with a bearing mount for a
by
chrishamm
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Ormerod
Don't increase the temperatures for PLA, I print it at 200°C max and this works well for me. Also, on my PLA roll there's a label saying "Print temperatures: 175°C - 220°C" so I wouldn't go higher than 220°C anyway.
Is there any chance to measure your actual nozzle temperature? In case you have multimeter with a small thermometer, you can feed it into your nozzle and double-check your temperatur
by
chrishamm
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Ormerod
I had a similar problem a few days ago, and this can have different causes:
- Did you apply too much force when turning in the Bowden PTFE tube? In that case, the end of the bowden tube might be somewhat deformed, letting only some filament go into the nozzle.
- Is some of your PLA filament burnt inside the nozzle? This happened to me once, and I had to replace the little PTFE tube inside the noz
by
chrishamm
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Ormerod
Clean the Kapton tape with some isopropyl alcohol. Works good for me.
by
chrishamm
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Ormerod
Welll, 220°C seems a little low to me. I print ABS at 240°C to get better line bonding, and this doesn't happen to me, even when printing big parts.
by
chrishamm
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Ormerod
I *think* I know what's going on. Recently I've upgraded my Slic3r version to 1.0.0 stable and and since then I'm no longer able to print the XYZ testpiece because it messes up the Z-axis part by extruding too much filament into the solid infill. Now I'm using Slic3r 1.1.0 experimental and my testpiece seems to be printed properly - I'll report whether this has an effect on dc42's testpiece when
by
chrishamm
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Ormerod
Hello dc42,
I've always blamed retraction and travel speed for these artifacts, although I guess printing speed and cooling play a big role as well,
Usually I print ABS only, but because my PSU was broken til today I switched back to PLA for the moment. However, when printing ABS, I can't discover this kind of artifacts at all. Just for comparion, here's an ABS-printed part for my replacement al
by
chrishamm
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Ormerod
Hello,
I had a similar problem where my printer stopped suddenly while printing. I could resolve this issue by reducing my maximum bed offset to less than 1mm. What do your G30 commands look like?
by
chrishamm
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Ormerod
The Duet's stepper motor drivers are rated at 1000mA max without additional cooling. I've been operating three of my Ormerod's four stepper motors at 1000mA for a couple weeks and I haven't noticed any bad side effects yet, so this should work for you as well.
by
chrishamm
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Ormerod
Hello dc42,
Thanks for your update, your work is really appreciated One thing I have noticed though is that the first XY move after a layer change takes ~3 seconds before it continues, although the speed seems to be okay. Is this normal?
by
chrishamm
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Ormerod
Hi,
Slic3r can do it, but for some reason the official Ormerod Slic3r settings use fixed bed temperatures. Open Slic3r, go to Printer Settings -> Custom G-Code and replace the Start G-code with the following:
G21 ; set units to millimeters
G90 ; use absolute coordinates
M83 ; use relative distances for extrusion
M140 S; Set bed temperature
G1 X2 Y50 F2000; Go to wait for warm position
M116;
by
chrishamm
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Ormerod
Hello everyone,
I'd like to share my experience about printing ABS with an RRP Ormerod. First of all, huge thanks to dc42 and iamburny for their software (and hardware) improvements (can't say it often enough)! During the last few weeks, I built my custom Ormerod made for ABS printing, called the Armerod
It took me a couple weeks to get to the point I am at right now, so here are a few suggesti
by
chrishamm
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Ormerod
Okay, forget about the issue I reported. Seems like the feedrate specified in a simple X/Y G1 movement also affects the following Z moves and my maximum Z feedrate was simply too high. Now I'm back at 200mm/min and I don't get missed steps any more. Sorry about that.
Nonetheless, I can confirm rayhicks' observation. While printing, I've noticed the first XY movement after each layer change happe
by
chrishamm
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Ormerod
Quotedc42
Hi zombiepl, can you post the gcode file you were printing when this happened, or at least the last 200 or so lines?
Sure, there you go:
First 200 lines:
Last 200 lines:
My current feedrates and accelerations look like this:
M203 X15000 Y15000 Z300 E6000
M201 X1000 Y1000 Z10 E1000
by
chrishamm
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Ormerod
Hello again,
I think I found another (minor) bug: After a print finishes, the maximum Z acceleration and/or feedrate is messed up. That means the Z axis moves too fast and I get skipped steps. I use custom accelerations/feedrates - except for the Z axis - and this combination works fine until I try to lower the nozzle using G1 after a print has finished.
At the moment I'm using version 0.57t, bu
by
chrishamm
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Ormerod