when doing perimeters think hollow sphere. on the way up we want to do perimeters from the inside out. but from the equator we want to swap perimeters to start with outer perimeter. this of course applies to the angle in relation to the layer below. so the overhang is processed last. alternatively always use at least four perimeters and start with center perimeter. another good setting wouby Thingy - Slic3r
And make sure belts are running straight, my x-belt wasn't and my prints looked like that.by Thingy - General Mendel Topics
I had that, my belt wasn't running straight. My motor pulley was too far out on the mortor shaft. I had tyo reinsert it and file away at the motor mount so it would turn without the screw sticking on the motor mount hole. After I adjusted it so the belt was aligned properly I have had no x-axis slippage. For a quick and dirty fix you can add in slizer to home x-axis after each layer. You wont gby Thingy - General Mendel Topics
I had that problem on the x-axis. My issue was that the belt was not aligned straight. Check that the y-belt is completely straight for the whole range of movement of the bed. move the motor and /or the bearing on the opposiute side so that the belt runs straight.by Thingy - General Mendel Topics
I reverted back to my home made hotend. Which works fairly well when I stole the heating element and thermistor from the budashnozzle. I have a variant of the North90 hot-end which was the simplest model I could find. I guess I had to somehow fit the included fan, blowing air on the copper heat sink, surrounding the ptfe so that it keeps from melting the filament that high up. Or try to find anby Thingy - General Mendel Topics
lm8uu 3 or 4 for each carriage, depending on how the carriage is made. I had 3 for my x-carriage, which I think is the most common. and 4 for the y-carriage, but there might be iteration with only three here. two each for z-rods. 608zz skateboard 1 for x-belt, 2 for y-belt. two for the extruder I have seen a version where the z-rods is resting on top of two bearings, but I don't use them and havby Thingy - General Mendel Topics
My extruder motor is a small NEMA 17 I found in an old epson printer, since the extruder is the geared variant, it needs not so much torque. It doesn't miss steps at all, but it runs quite hot. The z-motors are the ones with least resistance, atleast if you use 2 of them. Put the extruder together with the small NEMA 17 and try to extrude. there is far higher chance the extrusion problem is becby Thingy - General Mendel Topics
So I finally got around to fix my prusa. Bought a new hot-end and a new glass bed that had broken. I got the budaschnozzle v1.2 from ebay. No instructions so fist I put it together all wrong and melted some parts trying to print with ABS. But the extrusion wont work right. At first it printed a few layers allright, but every now and then a layer or part of a layer get's no plastic extruded at aby Thingy - General Mendel Topics
I am quite new to this whole reprapping thiing. But as you can see on these images, the first one being the hollow cube, and the second being the better z-endstop calibrator thingie. I did another set of couplings but they were also too slanted to use. In the secod photo you can see how the first layers shift sideways, that is x-direction when doing circles, but when it's only straight lines itby Thingy - General
Jag tänkte bara berätta var jag fick tag i mina delar till en Prusa. Utskrivna delar: Emakershop Beställda från tyskland. Vitamins: Skruvar muttrar brickor, gängad stång: Bauhaus ca 100kr/kilot, stängerna tror jag kostade 20kr/m fick dom kapade på plats i maskin, men dom tar 25kr per snitt, så gör det själv! 608zz bearings: Stadium, säljer 8-pack för dryga hundralappen. släta stålstänger: mby Thingy - Sweden, Gothenburg RepRap User Group