Looking to sell my like new Smoothieboard 5XC, includes GLCD shield. $100 + shipping Paypal in the US.by tjb1 - For Sale
I've designed a printer called the E1x which is very similar to the i3 and compatible with most of the X axis carriages as well as the bed but it uses extrusion for the frame. The extrusion can be purchased quite cheap here in the US from Misumi and I think a few in IRC that have built them have been able to do it for around $500. If you are interested, I know a few people in #reprap IRC will aby tjb1 - General
Are the models on your website a joke? Still not sure if this is legitimate but quite odd for a group that specializes in 3D printing to only find this forum when they want donations...by tjb1 - General
QuoteRalph.Hilton Here are the engineering drawings: Like I said, no heat sink drawing...by tjb1 - General
I was going to model it for you but I couldn't find the drawing for the heatsink. If you find it, let me know and I'll model it up.by tjb1 - General
Maybe give Onshape a try, it's very similar to Solidworks/Inventor but runs through your browser or an app on phone/tablet. I tried it and it was a tad slow compared to Inventor that I use at work, but it does have a ton of features and they actively update it weekly I think. Free for 5 private drawings or you can deactivate some to keep going or just make them public to stay free.by tjb1 - General
Quotedc42 Quotetjb1 if someone can't manage to turn a screw to set a voltage than maybe building their own printer isn't something they should be doing. That's a rather contemptuous attitude. All sorts of people build repraps, some with a lot of mechanical experience and zero electronics experience. Software control is also much more convenient. I've just reduced an extruder stepper motor currenby tjb1 - General
Quotedc42 Quotetjb1 Motor current adjustment is a simple trim pot and multimeter, hardly tricky. You only need to read these forums to see that a great many people have trouble doing it. Some short the driver board out in the process. Quotetjb1 You can run from SD card without an LCD. Sure you can, if you can find an SD card addon separate from an LCD. Quote Never had a failed voltage regulatby tjb1 - General
Quotedc42 If you want a good board, my advice is not to use Arduino/RAMPS at all, because it has too many disadvantages e.g. slow USB-over-serial connection without flow control, tricky stepper motor current adjustment, no SD card unless you add an LCD, fragile voltage regulator, 12V power limitation, and poor performance (although sufficient for a Cartesian printer). Choose Duet or Smoothieboardby tjb1 - General
Quotethe_digital_dentist I wouldn't want windows anywhere near my printer. 3D printing is unreliable enough without depending on windows to control the machine! Boards that run OSes always have housekeeping tasks to do that might interfere with the precise timing required in a 3D printer. That's why they've so far been relegated to sending gcode, line by line, to the printer controller board.by tjb1 - General
It's not important because it's all handled in the firmware... No endstop has relation to another and the main reason Z endstops are on MIN is because the speed of a threaded rod driven axis is quite slow and you need to be near MIN to print anyway so it is wise to home at that location rather than wait for it to travel from MAX. The only real thing that matters is when looking at the front ofby tjb1 - General
Did you buy *good* Kapton or the cheapest stuff on ebay? Real Kapton tape is not cheap or easy to find on sites like ebay due to the 800 other listings from china that are likely just orange packing tape.by tjb1 - General
Quotetnert2003 I have bought two sunhockey i3's this year from them. www.3dprintersonlinestore.com. the support is good. the new acrylics are better. but still acrylic.took two weeks to arrive.but for 350 free shipping i cant complain. Acrylic is never a good choice for a printer, it does not last.by tjb1 - General
I would encourage you to take a look at the E1x, it's my own design that is based mostly off of the i3 except it uses extrusion which is very cheap in the US. It's easier to assemble and calibrate than the single plate i3 in my experience and it's compatible with the i3 bed, has the standard X axis smooth rod spacing and also can use all the smooth rod off the i3 (if you are converting and stickby tjb1 - General
Quoteslonik Quotedc42 I don't know of a board that supports exactly 7 stepper motor drivers. Have you considered wiring your two Z axis motors in series instead? This is often a better option than connecting them in parallel. No, no, driver designed for 1 step.motor. In cnc milling/turning machines never 1 driver feeds 2 steppers or servos simultaneously. You have to edit the firmware to send tby tjb1 - General
Quote3DPrintingNoob Don't get me wrong! We do have a printer! We have an Imagine printer. However, we are obviously not using an SSR in this case since it's just one heated bed. It may not seem so complicated but just by increasing the size of the print area by three times, the complexity of the project can really increase. Furthermore, this project has a deadline at the end of May, however, theby tjb1 - General
Quote3DPrintingNoob Hello again, I plan to use FOUR 300x300 mm silicone heatbeds capable of reaching 150 deg-C, all beds controlled by the controller board (e.g. RAMPS-FD). I am pretty sure the board can't provide enough power to power the beds as the board is rated at 12-24 V. HOWEVER, what if I select the four beds to be at 12 or 24 V each and connect them in series/parallel to the controllerby tjb1 - General
I'm interested in the Misumi 1515 package in your first post, will PM further information.by tjb1 - For Sale
And what prevents anyone from going to Youmagine or this thread here and taking it and claiming it?by tjb1 - Reprappers
Quotewidespreaddeadhead QuoteZavashier Here you are. These are stronger, it don't stress the acrylic frame and lay flat. Please don't publish it on thingiverse, I dislike their policy. If you like you can publish it on Youmagine. Just wondering, what it is about Thingiverse's policy you don't like? They'll steal your designs and use them in the new replicator... Anyway, I'm off to buy more aluby tjb1 - Reprappers
I can not tell you whether or not color affects strength but I do know that Black is usually the worst if you buy cheap filament because they can hide things in the filament that may not be beneficial to printing. I did find these links regarding pigment and strength: I would assume most plastics are similar with respect to pigment and strength changes.by tjb1 - General
Quoteskynetprinter Why would you use silicone heat beds on aluminium instead of resistors? resistors have pretty precise resistance, and you can also use a number of reprap heatbeds, which can go from 24 volts. PET and FR4 both seem like good printing substrage, because you can remove them and bend them to get the plastic off. makerbot uses pet sheet instead of glass. Resistors have very localiby tjb1 - General
The first post here says "DIYtech recently started selling Xssink Boxd 3d printers". With the massive thread on this forum about how bad they(DIYTechShop) are and how terrible the service is, why does anyone buy from them? I understand some of you are mad but a little research ahead of time would have saved a ton of trouble...by tjb1 - General
Quoteskynetprinter no plastic sticks to glass, only kapton tape does. for PLA i use paper adhesive which is awesome, the PLA sticks straight to the aluminium fairly well too. you don't need to use only one print bed too... it's a myth. you can have .2 mm gaps in the print substrate the print will be fine. you can use des bosses under the substrate and holes in the alu to keep all in place if youby tjb1 - General
Quoteenzo1027 Quotestephenrc Remove the space you have between the - and the number on line 430 in Configuration.h and try again. No dice. :/ Still the same compile error. I downloaded Marlin (newest stable version) yesterday, and only changed my what I needed to make my Folger-Tech Prusa work (ie. inverting endstops, change some travel speeds, etc). I then went in and enabled auto bed levelingby tjb1 - General Mendel Topics
QuoteNormandC We're discussing this software over on the FreeCAD forum. An Onshape employee has joined in to answer questions and to provide "rumor control" (his words). Seems like a reasonable guy. Quotetbj1 It is when you are at work trying things on break/lunch. I can't believe people still use Internet Explorer, even in businesses... I suggest spending one break period downloading another bby tjb1 - General
Quotejbernardis Quotetjb1 ... but it doesn't play nice with IE ... It's not difficult to download chrome or firefox. Even if it's just for evaluation, it might be helpful to those of us who don't have the invitation. It is when you are at work trying things on break/lunch.by tjb1 - General
QuoteTraumflug OpenSCAD isn't the only choice. FreeCAD is free software and works pretty similar to most of the commercial CAD apps. I tried that and still use it to convert STLs but it is much harder for me to grasp when coming from Inventor. I did get an invite to Onshape but it doesn't play nice with IE so I can't do anything right now but the starting page it loads you to is full of tutoriaby tjb1 - General
This software just went into BETA yesterday. I have not been able to get an invite yet but the videos look very nice and if it can export STLs it may be very useful for those of us who use Inventor/Solidworks at work but don't have the money to buy them or are just bad with Openscadby tjb1 - General
I have one and it works very well but as Srek stated it is very hard to feed new filament. I usually end up jamming something in to relieve the idler pressure and then it requires bending the last 3" of filament straight and prodding for a couple minutes before it goes into the bowden tube. I've never had any feeding problems with it and even when the hotend jammed the extruder happily forced fby tjb1 - General