remember im testing these chips on a breadboard using an arduino uno and just switching off and changing the chip over to the next to test. to me that says its the chips if 1 spins the motor and 2 are dead and 1 gets super hot?by Enlightx - General
something else to try that ill be selling soon and i find is much better ptfe/teflon heat shrink to protect the ptfe coated wire and then use 300C heatproof silicon to get it in nice and secure. then you wrap around with 10mm kapton tape to make a nice thermal wrap same with your resistor as wellby Enlightx - General
iya guys yes i had them in a breadboard connected up to a normal arduino running the code form that sketch file. also have got the latest model with the protection circuits in (old ones are now not made anymore). thanks guysby Enlightx - General
using the Pololu - A4983 chips my fault i was messin with a pot earlier while half asleep as i was having stuttering problems on Z also had extruder problems with skipping etc so was going to check the pots out. then all of a sudden nothing using the setup from the pololu site and the arduino sketch on an arduino 1 chip spins the motor all other 2 are just dead to the world nothing at all and tby Enlightx - General
looks like 3 of my drivers have died attached are Arudino sketch and wiring diagram PDF (testing diagram is last page) you can hook it up and test the driver with a motor to see if it works. note i didnt use the capacitors to testby Enlightx - General
yeah they not getting hot in use each driver has a different problem. I think it may be a problem with the electronics this is why i wanted to know if i can test the drivers outside of the electronics to rule them out. 1 driver does nothing 1 driver just gets hot within seconds along with the 5VR and then another just attempts to move but does nothing. altering the pots does nothing. while imby Enlightx - General
Think i may have a problem with either some of my driver chips or maybe the electronics. 5V voltage regulator is getting very very hot and soemtimes various stepper drivers are getting hot. is there a test to test them outside of the electronics?by Enlightx - General
try a fan blowing on the printer will help reduce the blobling and the corners poking up. also like you say lowest temp possible will help are you using pla or abs? (looks like pla to me)by Enlightx - General
not the filament very high grade supplier and iv got stuff iv ordered over a 4 month period and its all the same no matter which colour etc but thinking it could be the stepper driver i suppose maybe its not got enough power going and then it skips ! ill give it a go maybe later if not tommrow im getting round it just running all prints at 40mm speed would just to get parts and drafts of stuffby Enlightx - General
basically i noticed a problem when doing solid infills i would get repetitive parts missing and not extruding enough plastic. last time this happened when i was 1st starting out i found it to be hobbed bolt was rubbish replaced it and worked great for over 3 months. happened this time round and i thought ill replace it and get a hyena bolt as that's gonna be better and might last a while longerby Enlightx - General
always had a fan blowing across the barrier at the top ill try going lower think i did try this and started skipping at 40 then but will have another check later i take it 50 - 60 mm is not asking too much of these printers?by Enlightx - General
hi guys any ideas on whats causing this? if i go any higher then 45 mm/min in pronterface when free extruding i get skips or bobbin up and down sometime even clicks it skips so bad running faberdashery pla at 200c no idea why this has happened i started having the problem around 4 weeks ago and have tried many things to try find out why i used to be able to run this same pla at 185c no probleby Enlightx - General
why are you using only 3 screws to hold the bed ? prusa I2 uses 4 screws to hold the heated bed to bottom plate then the glass is held on using bulldog clips you can then alter the height in each corner is needed but normally i dont see why you would. if your prusa frame is all level then the base should be level therefore the heated bed. i dont use springs i just raise the bed 4 m4 nuts form thby Enlightx - General
? the diode solution? if so can we get an diagram of this on how to wire it upby Enlightx - General
yes i was thinking of using a relay but the clicking would do my head in i dont think ramps has a problem as its has correct terminal headers Sanguinololu electronics are okay and fine its just the connections which are the problem the connectors cannot take that many amps safely. ideadly we could do with a 12v reading mosfet which then handles the output to save modding the board. for teby Enlightx - General
best way to check for problems is just run your finger around the board if something has shorted or been put on backards it will be getting hot. you need ideally to get a multi meter and check your voltages from one side of the mosfet all the way out to the molex see were it stops. if you were shorted and pins were getting very got it may have melted the conector or may have tarnished the metalby Enlightx - General
in reality they should of designed the baords so that the mosfet was not on the board and on a smaller inline board with decent 10A terminal connectors to be safe. might have to look into deeper into doing this as iv already had a connector melt from too much power. just for notes when i got an ameter on my heated bed i was getting 6.8A from cold. But was using very thick wire so might of knocby Enlightx - General
5V line issues causing reading problems with the ATMEGA? only noticed other day that my voltage regulator was hanging on had to get it out and solder a new 1 not got fans blowing near machine or anything ? thermistor come loose and moving? i would get the hot end out on the desk hook it up move some cables see if you get any funny readingsby Enlightx - General
just wondering how people are connecting heated beds to there electronics? from my research i see that the bed takes just under 7A of power now heres were i see problems the header and pin connection are only rated at 3A even splittling them like the Sanguinololu does over 4 pins instead of 2 only gives 6A then the other problem i see is the wire needed does not support the crimp connectorsby Enlightx - General
have you tried altering the Z height (heigher and lower) while trying to print to see if this helps? I normally do this and when i get it right just start alerting the Z stop untill you get it right. maybe a pic of the problem or even better a video will help us diagnose the problem only other thing i can think is that your temps are reading wrong ? (wrong thermistor selected in firmware)by Enlightx - General
Just got an ameter on my j-head and heated bed thought i would post the results up for people to see J-head with resistor was using 1.5A @ 12V Heated bed was using approx 7A @ 12V hope it helps some oneby Enlightx - General
i had this for a long time before i even noticed lol just reverse the direction of X carriage in the firmware (you can do it hardware with wires if needed but firmware is easier) if you then find that your X end stop is wrong you need to change that as well in the firmware same with Y just need to do a test print i used this to work out if i had the correct way round thingiverse 6752 as ifby Enlightx - General
i just use 300c high heat silicon easy to remove then if you ever need to. i used to use artic cooling thermal paste. (MX-2) problem was when heated up to 200c it goes stupid hard. had a problem with my j-head and needed to clear it out and was very very very dificult to get both resistor and thermistor out. endedup using a hammer and a drillby Enlightx - General
think i might go 20awg all round then same as computer power supply cable. problem iv found is every header i find is only rated at 4A and crimp connector at 3A think im gonna get my ameter on them weekend see how much it draws for the hotend and heated bedby Enlightx - General
ahh just re read the wiki thats total draw on the PSU 20A+ when using a heat bed what AWG wire are people using then for heated bed and also the hot end? for motors i plan on just using 4 core alarm cable and end stops/sensors just as thin as possibleby Enlightx - General
hi guys just had my heated bed conenctor melt (Sanguinololu end) . can some one tell me what im looking for for replacement crimp connectors and also replacement hoods (farnell codes would be amazing !) also on the wire side i know that the hotend and heated bed connectors have double pins as the connectors on the Sanguinololu cannot take that much current on the 1 pin. am i right in thinkinby Enlightx - General
its better at 200C waiting untill tommrow when i get my .35mm j-head up and working again as atm quality is no were near were it was 2 weeks ago. but at least atm im back to printing some partsby Enlightx - General
iv gone back now and checked springs in extruder, re done steps per mm as i forgot i changed hobbed bolt to a Arcol Hyena Hobbed Bolt as i thought orignally a week ago this was caused by a worn bolt. it seems i only have a problem if i go over 50mm/sec and i can achully hear the filament slipping when printing as well as seaing the solid infill skip and have parts missing. ill try going hotter.by Enlightx - General
nohead your right ! shoved the k type thermocouple down the barrell and 185C which not comes to say why am i strugging to push the filament?by Enlightx - General
i ordered some thermistors from farnell (code 3878697) i have tried to generate a new table but when i do i get -10c at room temp.by Enlightx - General