iya guys only been 3d printing a month and want to change something in a model. Theres an open scad model which when i load nothing renderes. i am including the lib file also but seems to make no differernce all i want to do is change the middle diameter to 8mm can you help ? model is here Link to thingiverse 8317by Enlightx - General
iya just trying to sort firmware and cannot find PID settings for J-head IV-B any ideas? or how i can work it out? googling i found this J-Head Mk III-B #define DEFAULT_Kp 20.18 #define DEFAULT_Ki 0.69 #define DEFAULT_Kd 197.48 just wondering if anyone has IV-B settings?by Enlightx - Firmware - mainstream and related support
i did try the air extrude the other day but the problem i found was that the extruded plastic was not a constant width. Because of the weight of the plastic it streches as it extrudes. i think ill just leave it at 0.35 and see how i go from there and maybe get a different hotend when i got some cash spare. what do you guys suggest as the most stable hotend atm? (ideally easy to get in the UK)by Enlightx - Printing
okay guys what iv done is get slic3r saved a config file and printed with nozzel set at 0.5mm. Iv then printed with the same config but changed only the nozzel size settings to 0.4 and also 0.35 . see what you think to me i would say that its 0.35 nozzel just purley on the solid fills there much closer also no missed areas which im guessing are there on the 0.5mm because it thinks the extuderby Enlightx - Printing
just a note not left this or solved this yet having some other problems i need to get sorted with machine before getting calibration sorted.by Enlightx - Printing
hi guys been having various calibaration problems which iv been talking with people int he printing forums about but run into another problem which i need to get sorted 1st. basically motors are not wired correctly and giving me mirrored / upside down prints. i had a look the weekend and chagned the wiring and thought all was okay and reflashed with non inverted selected in the firmware i didby Enlightx - Sanguino(lolu)
can you have a look at this video of me extruding 5mm @ 30mm per min seems to ,e its extruding ay too much? i have just checked the esteps again there okay (if i set 5mm to extrude it takes in 5mm of plastic) Youtube linkby Enlightx - Printing
now the plot really does thicken ! i was thinking what to check so i thought i wonder if i have got nozzel size set wrong or soemthing sillt as the infills are a bit loose. so i look at what i bought which was j-head iV B 0.5mm nozzel then i think okay i can measure the skirt print out as its one layer and im guessing should be 0.5mm it measures 0.4mm so what the hell ill set nozzel in slic3by Enlightx - Printing
Just did a printer with no retraction and seems to be pretty much the same also no pic on last post and thanks for the help so farby Enlightx - Printing
Sorry forgot to say i checked the esteps they are 100% perfect i move 10mm in software and hardware moves 10mm attached a pic of current problemby Enlightx - Printing
Tried the following Lowering temp Lowering speed Lowering retraction distance and still geting blobs in areas there not as bad and the 1st layer has none as all as its very very slow any ideas on what i can do ? the blobs are in the same place every time (thought since changing from last nigth they are now on the outside of the circle)by Enlightx - Printing
Great info I'll give it all a go in a bitby Enlightx - Printing
after i reflashed firmware i lost this problem also i set retraction to 2mmby Enlightx - Printing
just spent dont know how long gettin marlin to work on printer but still no change still gettint the blobing on direction changes <img src="http://twitpic.com/show/thumb/9jj9rb.jpg" if you have a look at the pic you can see it on the circle and also the corners of the end part. on the firmware i just set the default steps to same as sprinter default for metric prusa as i do not know howby Enlightx - Printing
I am using sprinter firmware You think I should try marlin?by Enlightx - Printing
im very close now with my machine i think after this last problem im there. problem is when printing a complete line the print is great as soon as the it changes angle or stops i get blobs. this happens from start to finish of the print on every layer so with a square every corner will have a blob which ends up with all the corners pointing up in the end same with circles its fine but as soonby Enlightx - Printing
when you say width are you talking width settings in slic3r ? because i could not find this anywere or are you talking nozzel size and the fan you talking a fan blowing onto the print? sorry only been reprapping for 2 weeksby Enlightx - Printing
could that not be heat getting up to the top of the filament making it weak and the the bolt bending the filament beacuse its soft? try running a fan?by Enlightx - Printing
what do people suggest for speed on bridges to stop drooping/hangs ? Should i be running the printer quickly over the bridge or do you print it slow so it dries leaving no droop? using PLA btw dont know if this dries quicker/slower then ABS ?by Enlightx - Printing
You need to get the sprinter firmware Arduino 0.18 Sanguino software for 0.18 extract sprinter download to a folder extract aruduino to another folder put the sanguino folder(from the downloaded zip file) into the extracted arduino hardware folder then load arduino software and open the sprinter.pde from the extracted sprinter folder edit the config file (2nd tab along) to your requiredby Enlightx - Printing
Just checked motor is plugged in normal and wired same as all motors Any other ideas?by Enlightx - Firmware - mainstream and related support
Iya just changed over from a wades extruder to gregs hinged extruder. and iv had to reverse the extruder axis to get correct rotation on the stepper is this normal? iv checked the stl file and its not printed revered or anythingby Enlightx - Firmware - mainstream and related support
i had a similar problem last week. i basically shorted something out which reset everything. after restarting everything i let the hot end warm up to then find that temp was not moving anywere then something blew in the hotend (im guessing resistor cracked) anyway i found that the 5v voltage regulator and also then atmega chip were getting very hot fix was to replace the atmega chip as it wasby Enlightx - Sanguino(lolu)
yeah was a ground problem ! wire had worked loose so wasnt fully connected thanks for the helpby Enlightx - Sanguino(lolu)
just spent the last hour doing more tests. looks like its a problem with the heated bed itself as when moving cables round to switch with the heated bed no problem is present with the bed connection. took out heated bed now and taken all components off when i test ohmns across the bed i get 1.6ohm which i think is very low resistance and probs why its killing the usb connection and causing thby Enlightx - Sanguino(lolu)
Sanguinololu 1.3a board just taken off heatbed again no shorts anywereby Enlightx - Sanguino(lolu)
iya guys been using MK2 heat bed no problems. Then all of sudden when i enable heatbed on using pronterface the laptop cuts out as if theres been a short on the USB port. so i check all cable for shorts etc and the thermistor etc nothing. then starts working agian. worked for 2 days now its back again. any ideas iv check for shorts on the board and cabling many times. i was thinking maybeby Enlightx - Sanguino(lolu)
thanks for the help guys i reflashed sprinter onto device and now is sticking also taking longer to heat up so my guess is that thermistor was wrong the 1st timeby Enlightx - Printing
Hi guys just testing my 1st reprap and im having a nightmware with it not stick to the glass on the 1st layer. then with it not sticking it curls up and stick to the jhead nozzel. also it seems to stick after a second or 2 then as soon as a reverse happens does not stick then sticks again after a second or two. any ideas as its doing my head in now iv tried so many things. Settings im usingby Enlightx - Printing