No just stl file containing more than one object. I need to check this again, I'm worried now to "see wrong" and it actually slows down!by syncra - Skeinforge
Ok got it, sorry! width over thickness - I keep this at 1.3 - is this the problem? Saving material... I moved it to 1.5 now, see if that was the problem.by syncra - Skeinforge
I use always 3 layers, both on side walls and top and bottom. What do you mean with w/t? Thanks Syncraby syncra - Skeinforge
Did anybody feel the need to add some more material in the last top layer of flat objects? sometimes happens to me to have the final top filling not perfectly filled. Maybe it's because of the low internal density (0.10-0.15)? In any case it would be fine if I could just push some more material in the last layer only. Any advise? Thanksby syncra - Skeinforge
PS: just for clarity, for "outer contour" I mean the most external deposited line, the one that you see and touch!by syncra - Skeinforge
Hi all, I always use the feature to slow down the outer contour to improve the quality of the part, usually 0.6 of the normal speed. However, I just noticed that when I print multiple objects at the same time, this nice feature is missing. Anybody can explain me why this happens and if there is way way around it? Many thanks, Syncraby syncra - Skeinforge
Hi brnrd, is this "You also need additional ground wires between the power supply and RAMPS." only for the case of RAMPS 1.2 or also .3 and .4? In this case, do you have a web reference on how to do this? Thanksby syncra - General
That's good advice Nophead, and I understand in case you connect two power supplies in parallel to the same mosfet. But what about RAMPS 1.3-1.4, where there are two separated input for power? I thought this was done appositely to run to separated power supplies? Thanks againby syncra - General
At the moment I am using a simple 60W laptop charger and works ok without heated bed.... Do you think if I put another one in parallel (maybe a litlle more powerful than 60W) it could work? Otherwise maybe you are right, it's easier and safer to just replace the current power supply with a proper PC power supply. I imagine I can find info on which cable are the 12V easily on the internet. Manyby syncra - General
Thanks jsadusk, this is good advice. Still, how many is "several ~6 ohm lenghts in parallel"? I imagine there is a calculation behind? And do you use a separate transformer to feed ramps for the bed? Is it a 12V with >120W, I imagine? Thanksby syncra - General
All info are very useful!! Unfortunately I do not have much clearance underneath the bed and I do not want to rise it very high to accommodate power resistors (I am working on an extended Huxley which has only 100mm z travel and would prefer to not diminish this!), so I cannot use power resistors (which seems like making life easier, blah!). Looks like I am forced to a thin layer of nichrome wiby syncra - General
Dear all, I have a read lots of different solutions for heated bed, but I would like to try some super basic home made solution, which copies the functioning of the heated nozzle. Would you be able to advise if I am in the right direction? 1) If I use a stiff surface as top (ie glass or ceramic, commercial) and I pass a nichrome wire on the bottom of it (trying to cover as much surface as possby syncra - General
All this topic is amazing!!!! I'll try open my old Canon S330 then, and when I will visit my parents, I can probably get my hands on at least 3 old inkjet printers and probably one old needle printer! Good discovery Dinseytoy!by syncra - General New Machines Topics
Petrus, your results look amazing!!! Would you be able to show better how you use the fan to cool down? (especially if that's the trick!) Is the fan blowing to the metal parts of the extruder or to the deposited material? Thanks for sharing this. Syncraby syncra - General New Machines Topics
johnrpm Wrote: > Perhaps some of the patents are running out ???. Lots of patents are running out, as you surely know! - FDM a few years now - Z-corp also expired (in fact, when do we start to build powder based repraps printing multicolor ) - SLS should expire very soon!by syncra - General
Rajeev at all, I never stated that Botmill is into any infringement, yet. However, I stated that BfB definitely is, and their behaviour has been really sad for the open source community. Open source means that you can take and use as long as you put back some knowledge in case you create new IPs. Then it gets more complicated regarding commercial operations and depends on the type of licence.by syncra - General
in the hot end, why do you have a piece of ptfe inside the peek? why this is not directly the bowden cable continuing into the nozzle?by syncra - General
3DS making a mistake after another, and still the reprap community helping... this feels really strange to me. BfB already broke any possible GPL/licence agreement and now Botmill will try doing the same. Take and never give. Why the community is so open and helpful with businesses that do not share?by syncra - General
Looks really good! Where did you buy push-fit components and bowden cable? Is it PTFE? Thanks againby syncra - General
Would you be able to give reference of the blue attachments for the cable? Thanksby syncra - General New Machines Topics
Hey Jacob, I am trying looking at the same. I used nuts to hold bowden for 3mm filament and would like now to try 1.7mm filament and thus relative bowden, but cannot understand how to keep it in place. Did you solve the problem? wouldyou be able to point me in the right direction? Thanksby syncra - Reprappers
Apologies if I'm late on this topic, but anybody knows how to keep the bowden in place on both ends? I used one for 3mm filament and 2 M5 nuts work perfectly, but what about the thinner bowden for 1.7mm filament? Thanks Syncraby syncra - General
Seen the topic, you might be able to help me: Do you know how to fit the Bowden cable for 1.7mm filament? I looked at Ultimaker website and found no info. Not even on emaker which uses the same... Thanksby syncra - General New Machines Topics
Fantastic answer Nophead, thank you!by syncra - Reprappers
I've just re-setup my nozzle, changing it for a new one with a G555 thermistor (before I using the classic 100k with large glass bead, not sure the brand). Clearly, I changed the Sprinter's thermistor setting. Before I was processing PLA at 200C, now it came out in droplets at the same temp so I imagine the two different thermistor are measuring incredibly different temperatures. I dropped theby syncra - Reprappers
Thanks sublime, it is very interesting and with lots of information... I assume they works and people are using them, from reading that thread! I might try one myself.by syncra - Reprappers
I start being desperate... As the nozzle cleaning process was delaying me, I decided to mount a mendel-parts nozzle (v6 I think) that I bought few month ago and never tried - in any case, BRAND NEW nozzle! (PS: I don't like it much, it's longer than my previous one, and the heating is not very close to the end of the nozzle, making longer the hot part and making difficult to avoid dropping matby syncra - Reprappers
Anybody tried these out already? Looking cheap and hassle free. Syncraby syncra - Reprappers
What nozzle/extruder do you use, nophead?by syncra - Reprappers
Forgot point 3- Is this operation of fire and water changing the properties of the material (it is like a heat treatment)? And maybe modifying the nozzle hole diameter?by syncra - Reprappers